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Old 12-04-2004, 09:39 PM   #1
amzng_spyderman
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maintenance faq

this is the faq thread for maintenance.

Basic Maintenance
Pneumatic Maintenance
Assembling
Disassembling
Parts and Tool Lists

Last edited by amzng_spyderman : 12-04-2004 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 12-04-2004, 10:27 PM   #2
amzng_spyderman
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Tools List

1/8 hex key - For grip frame screws, bottom line screws, beavertail screw, and hammer lug.
3/16 hex key - For the IVG, front block screw, and front block plug.
1/16 hex key - For the 3 way coupler set screws, E-Blade eye cover, and E-Blade trigger set screws.
3/32 hex key - For the cocking rod set screw.
1/4" 12-point socket - For the ASA screw.
Valve Tool - For removing the jam nut.

Complete Parts List

Air System Adapter (Vertical)
Air System Adapter (Bottomline)
ASA Screws
Air Fittings
Back Block (Varies by cocker generation, brand, and design)
Barrel
Ball Detent
Beavertail (Required for tournaments and at some fields)
Bolt (Varies by cocker generation, brand, and design)
Body (Varies by cocker generation, brand, and design)
Cocking Rod (Not required on some cockers)
Drop Forward/Cradle (Optional)
Feedneck (Varies by model and brand)
Front Block (Varies by cocker generation)
Front Block Screw/Low Pressure Chamber (Varies by cocker generation)
Grips (Vary by brand and design)
Hammer
Hose
IVG
Jam Nut
Low Pressure Regulator
Main Spring
Pneumatic Hose
Pump Arm (Varies by design)
Push/Pull Pin (Varies by bolt design, most come with bolt)
Ram
Ram Valve/Valves (Optional)
Regulator (Inline/Vertical)
Three Way (Mechanical/Centerflag Uprising Frame Only)
Three Way Coupler (Mechanical/Centerflag Uprising Frame Only)
Timing Rod (Mechanical/Centerflag Uprising Frame Only)
Trigger Frame
Trigger Frame Screws
Solenoid (Electro Only, comes with frame)
Valve
Valve Retaining Screw
Valve Spring
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Old 12-13-2004, 04:40 PM   #3
frontsniper
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MAINTENANCE

It really all depends on if you have a Electro-pneumatic or a mechanical autococker, but two things are for certain, you need gun oil, and a rag.

Basic maintenance on a mechanical autococker:
This came out of Glenn Palmer's mouth, "take a shower with it." Literally. Water will not damage the autococker at all. Swishing it around hot water for 30 seconds will get most of the dirt, paint, whatever you have in it.
I usually take off the front/pneumatic block, take a cotton swab, put gun oil{i use Palmer's oil(FDA approved)} on the tip of the swab, and start swabbing the inside of the 3-way and the o-rings.
Take a rag, paper towel or whatever and dry off the body, front block, back block, and feed neck. Take a squeege and squeege through the body from the back(where the bolt goes in) through the barrel.
When i chop a ball(rarely, just to take note ), i take a cotton swab and take out any residue, paint, dirt, etc.
If you have a metal bolt, or a bolt with o-rings, take out the bolt, oil the o-ring, and head to the next step.
Put 3 drops of gun oil in your ASA, air it up(without your barrel on), and rip away. It takes a couple dozen shots to cycle all the oil through your marker. You should be set after everything i put you through.

Basic Maintenance on a Electro-pneumatic autococker:
Believe it or not, a electro cocker could be alot easier than your mech cocker. Wipe it down, spray the body with a 50/50 solution of oil and water, wipe that down.
Put gun oil into your ASA(3 drops), air it up, check for leaks in your solenoid, and rip away. NOTE: dry firing your gun uses up alot of battery so buy alot of 9 volts to keep them in handy.
Get a couple of cotton swabs and swab out any dirt, paint, or anything else you might get into your gun. You should be set after everything i have put you through.
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Old 12-13-2004, 06:40 PM   #4
rainofpaint
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Basic maintenance - Pneumatic Maintenance, Mechanical

If you are not familiar with the operation and maintenance of the autococker, or are uncomfortable disassembling the pneumatic systems, ask someone who is familiar with this style of marker to assist you with this undertaking. I have done my best to completely describe each aspect of service, but experience is the best teacher!

Recommended every 6-10 weeks, or after 1-2 months of playing downtime. Depending on how often you use your autococker, you may want to perform this slightly more frequently. If you have just bought a used autococker, perform this maintenance before taking it on the field.

Pneumatic maintenance on your autococker begins and ends at the ASA. This post will take you through all the steps neccesary to keep your Autococker's pneumatics in prime operating condition for years to come.

We will not discuss the internal pneumatics in this article. Only the front pneumatics, bottom line, and inline reg, and all pneumatic hardware in between.

Note!!! This maintenance is to be performed with an empty marker, with no gas attached unless otherwise specified in the instructions! Be safe, and be smart!

Bottomline ASA - Not everyone has one of these anymore, but the bottomline ASA is where your propellant, be it Co2 or HPA, screws into. Make sure your threads aren't stripped, and make sure the hex screws are tight, and the ASA doesn't shift around. This will prevent the accidental cross-threading of the ASA.

Steel braided hose or Macroline and fittings - Since we've checked the ASA, let's move on to the next step in the path of your pneumatic system, if you have steel braided hose, visually inspect it, make sure none of the steel 'threads' are broken free, and make sure the line isn't kinked, as this can restrict airflow. If you have macroline, check each fitting for leaks, tighten the clip or replace the macroline if neccesary.

Inline Regulator - Now that we know the line leading up to your reg is good, it's time to look at your inline regulator. Do you regularly place two drops of light oil in the bottomline ASA? If so, remove the regulator from the marker's ASA, and following the manufacturers assembly instructions (There are a lot of inline regs out there, and I won't get too specific), disassemble the regulator and inspect it, if you use Co2 regularly, and haven't done this in a while, you may notice a light black carbon buildup on the surface of some of the parts, wipe this off with a soft lint-free cloth, and re-oil the parts with a light machine oil, one or two drops should fully lubricate your adjustable parts in a regulator. Inspect your O-rings, and replace any that seem worn or loose.

Front block - (What about the ASA on the Marker? We'll get to that soon. Remember, I said we start and finish with the ASA) Remove the banjo bolt from the front block of your marker, be careful not to bend the ram shaft and timing rods when you're doing so. Visually inspect the porting on the front block screw, if fouled, clean with a pipe cleaner. Inspect the O-rings behind and in front of the block. Replace if damaged.

Low Pressure Regulator - Inspect the barb and front hose connecting to the 3-way, if the hose is loose, replace it, if the barb is damaged, replace that too. Disconnect the hoses by putting a thumbnail under the edge of the hose and gently pushing upward while keeping tension on the hose, this will keep the hose from stretching tighter over the barb, and allow for easy removal without damage. Remove the low pressure regulator from your front block, and if applicable, disassemble and inspect the internal parts of the LPR, place a drop of light machine oil (3 in 1, PMI lube, Gold Cup) on the internal valve assembly inside the LPR, and reassemble. Wrap threads in two layers of teflon tape, and place LPR back on the front block.

Timing rod- Disconnect the timing rod from the 3-way shaft, inspect the rod for damage, most of this damage will occur on the threads where the second set screw clamps down. roll the timing rod on a flat surface, like a sheet of glass, and make sure the timing rod isn't bent, if it's minorly bent at the threads, carefully adjust it with gentle pressure until it no longer lifts up when you roll it. 1 or 2 degrees of bend is fine, but if it's pulling too far away from your frame, it's time to replace it. There are several good replacements, and I won't suggest any here.

3-way - Now that we've removed the timing rod, it's time to look at another part of the pneumatics, the 4 way actuator, commonly referred to as a 3-way. Remove the hoses from the three barbs and inspect the barbs and hoses as described in the LPR maintenance. Remove the 3 way shaft, and inspect the O rings on it, if any are damaged, or loose, your marker may not recock, or may leak too much through the 3-way. Inspect the shaft for bending in the same way you did with the timing rod, and if it can be fixed, bend it back slowly and gently, most 3-way shafts are brass and can be bent rather easily, if a stainless steel shaft is available, this is a suggested upgrade. In any event, once you've inspected the 3-way shaft, inspect the body for any damage internally, especially if you had to replace one of the O rings. In the event that the body is damaged, go out and get a new 3-way, if the body of the 3-way is still good, lube the 3-way shaft O rings generously with Dow 33, and reinsert the shaft. Place 3-way on front block, reattach timing rod.

Ram - Inspect the ram shaft (attached to the cocking rod) and ensure that the rod hasn't become bent with use. Remove the front air barb and place a drop of light machine oil in (With ram at full extension), replace air fitting and repeat with rear fitting, both fittings should be secured with a drop of loctite blue. Inspect the seal at the back of the shaft visually, if it appears worn, contact the manufacturer and request a ram rebuild kit, if the ram is not user servicable, some manufacturers will repair or replace them for a small fee. Place Ram back on front block, make sure air barbs don't block your barrel.

Reassemble all parts but the inline regulator at this point, using a drop of loctite blue on parts you don't want to shift around due to recoil on your marker.

Marker ASA - The final part of your maintenance, inspect the ASA attached to the body for wear, and place two drops of light machine oil in the ASA, this should be sufficient to oil the valve and cup seal. Attach the inline regulator, cock your marker, and air it up. Listen carefully for leaks, as they can and generally will happen at this point, go down the line and make sure you haven't forgotten to tighten anything down, or forgotten an O-ring at any step.

Re-time your marker. This is required when you remove the 3-way shaft from the cocking rod, and is a good idea after intensive maintenance anyways as the operation and efficiency of your marker generally improves after such maintenance.
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Old 12-15-2004, 01:00 PM   #5
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Do you think you could post on how to do a complete teardown of an autococker?
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Old 12-15-2004, 01:07 PM   #6
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Taken from EndlessPB.com:

" Everyone wants to be able to tear their marker down to the bare bones. While this can get a lot of people in trouble, it is still a very good skill to have. Naturally, you will need tools to disassemble your marker. So make sure that you have everything first, it will save headaches down the road. You will need a full set of standard allen keys, a 12 sided ľ inch socket and socket wrench, a valve tool, a dental pick, an adjustable crescent wrench, needle nose pliers, a hammer, and a small punch. You may encounter a lot of locktite along the way. If you cant unscrew something easily, its probably locktited, so either use brute force, or run hot water over the part for about twenty seconds (I suggest the second option).



The first step is to remove the easy stuff, basically the stuff that doesnít require heavy use of tools. Remove the bolt and bolt pin, and then unscrew the cocking rod. Next, use your 1/8 allen key to remove the two screws holding the trigger frame to the body. Lift the trigger frame up slightly, and slide away from the actuator rod. Now, unscrew the screw holding on the beaver tail. If you have an AKA, MacDev, or another older style velocity adjuster, it will be free to be removed. Unscrew the back block from the pump arm next. Unscrew the velocity adjuster (if it isnít already free). It generally uses a 3/16 allen wrench. Finally, the mainspring should just fall out of the back of the marker.



Next, undo the setscrew in the actuator collar farthest from the 3 way. Unscrew the actuator rod, and remove it through the hole in the ASA. Now, unscrew the second setscrew on the collar, and remove the collar from the 3 way rod. After that, unscrew the pump arm from the ram shaft. Now, you can unscrew the front block and pneumatics as one solid piece. Normally, a 3/16 allen key fits the front block screw (at least on the 2k cockers and newer). To break down the front block, you need to first remove the hoses from the pneumatics. If your hoses still have the top hat clamps on them, use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently pry them off of the nipple. Now, grasp the hose just above the nipple with the pliers, and apply a constant pulling pressure on the hose. They should pop off with minimal effort, but if they donít wiggle the hose slightly while pulling away from the nipple.



Now that the hoses are all off, you can start removing the pneumatics. First unscrew the ram, as it is the easiest to remove. Next remove the pneumatic reg. On almost all pneumatic regulators (other than the old Rock, and the Sledgehammer) you need to remove the nipple before removing it. Use a small adjustable crescent wrench, or a pair of needle nose pliers to carefully unscrew it. With the nipple off, use your crescent wrench on the fitting connected to the front block. WGP pneumatic regulators after 2000 use a 9/16 size wrench, while most others use a 7/16 size wrench (standard size for all 1/8 NPT fittings). The 3 way just unscrews from the front block.



To remove the hammer, insert a 1/8 allen key into the top access hole. You may need to reinstall the cocking rod in order to jiggle the hammer back and forth so the allen key engages. Turn the allen key counter clockwise to retract the lug into the hammer. When that is done, remove the allen key and tilt the marker back, the hammer should just slide out. Now, to get to the valve, you first need to remove the jam nut. Take the valve tool and insert the end with the bumper into the lower tube. When the valve tool engages the jam nut, unscrew it (you may need some leverage to unscrew it). Turn over the body, and use your 5/32 allen screw to remove the valve set screw. Now, the valve, cup seal, and valve spring should all slide out when you tip the body back.



All that is left to remove from the body is the ASA. This is where you use the 12 sided ľĒ socket wrench. A small collection of ASA screws use allen keys, but they are few and far between. All you do to remove the screw is unscrew it like a standard screw. After the screw is out, just pull off the ASA, and remove the o-ring that was between it and the body.



The last thing to do is break down the trigger frame. To break down a sliding frame, first take off the grips by removing all of the screws. Next locate the sear pin, and gently tap it out. Youíll probably need a hammer and a small screwdriver or punch. The sear will pop out once the pin is out, and the sear spring can be taken out too. If the frame has a safety, it will need to be removed before the trigger plate can be taken out. To remove the safety, use the pliers to grab the C clip, and just pull it off of the safety. It will take a strong grip and a good deal of force, but it will come off. After the clip is off, the safety will slide out. Be sure to collect the small spring in the top of the frame if you plan on using the safety again. To remove the trigger shoe, use the .050Ē allen key to loosen the set screws, and then pull it off. Pull back and up on the trigger plate to dislodge it. You can then just pull it out. Normally, the trigger return spring will stay basically in its channel, just put in a small allen key to fish out the trigger return spring."

Again, courtesy of endlessPB.com, great site.
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AGD ULE'd Automag
MacDev Cyborg w/ Tadao
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Quote:
Originally posted by Uziel Gal
Sadly, Frontsniper is spot on
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Old 12-24-2004, 08:44 AM   #7
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First off you must ask yourself. Hmm is my marker dirty? or Do i need to clean my marker?

Well after each day of paintball the answer to each of those questions is most likely "yes." so...

Start off by stripping your gun down until you have most of the parts off of the gun off. Look closely at each part expecting o-rings and look for paint or debris on the parts. If you see any take a rag, toilet paper, paper towel (anything soft) and wipe all the parts down and lube them. Put your gun back together and put a drop or two of 3 in 1 lube (gold cup, pmi, or shocktech, etc.) into the air source adapter. And with paint cycle the marker 15-30 times.

More advanced cleaning...

1. Barrel: Take your barrel apart if itís a 2 piece. go to your bath tub and run it under a happy medium temperature. Wash out until clean. Then take your barrel and shake all the loose water in to the tub. After that take about 4 feet of toilet paper and run it through your barrel making a paintball sized ball when you first put it in. After you run the toilet paper through get all the excess water out (the treading for the 2 piece design, the actual threading and the porting.) do that to both pieces and reassemble. You will get a very like new clean with that procedure.

2. Bolt: Delron bolts and metal bolts must be treated differently. Delron bolts are known to absorb water causing it to expand. Unless you have a loose fitting bolt would you want to run your bolt under water. Therefore, you shall take toilet paper and run it through the air flow hole and get all the debris out you can. If its not all the way clean just take a q-tip and get what ever is left out. Wipe off the main body of the bolt and use some Dow 33 or shocker lube and lightly coat the main body of the delron (this will give you that extra smooth stroke autococker owners love) Also apply about 1 drop of paintball gun oil onto each o-ring if it has any (worrblade bolt, stock). Metal bolts on the other hand are different. You can run them under water without any problem. So go ahead and do that making sure to get all the bolt under the water (inside the air flow hole) run under water until completely clean. Then take toilet paper and stuff in air flow hole and once all the way to the other side if its an open face bolt go ahead and pull it through. If it has a ventri hole, blow in it while the toilet paper is still in there so that you get all the water out. Once done with that just to be sure you have all the water out blow into the air flow hole to get any excess water. Lube and oil.

3. Detents: Unless you have rebuild able detents then the best way to get any paint debris etc out of the detent is to just run the ball up and down a cloth or toilet paper. If you have rebuild able detents just take apart and clean off ball and rebuild. It may help to put a little lube or paintball oil on the ball just to make it extra slick.

4. Main Body: If you chop paint you are more then likely going to have paint on the inside of your body and feed neck. First start of be just getting the main stuff out by running toilet paper through the inside of the gun and feed neck, along with the detent or eye holes. Then take a q-tip to get any extra stuff in hard to reach areas, until fully clean and free of debris.

5. Eye: If you have an e-blade, race frame, or another type of electronic frame you more then likely have eye(s) to clean your eye(s) simply remove them from the body and wipe them off with a q-tip until fully clean. There is a video at http://planeteclipse.com/site/eDownloads.asp that will teach you how to clean the eye.

6. Front block (ram, LPR, 3 way, or housing): If you have a mechanical gun you can just take your front end and put it under water and shake until clean then wipe off and make sure to get all water off. If you are not conferrable with that you can simply wipe off the parts to your satisfaction. If you have an electronic gun thatís what you will have to do unless you want to buy a new solenoid (donít think you want to) so wipe off the parts until clean. Also put some Dow 33 or shocker lube on the ram shaft and 3 way shaft.

7. Hammer: Remove your hammer from your body by taking the lug all the way out and sliding it out (you must remove IVG, and spring first). Take it out, wipe it down and lub it with shocker lube or paintball gun oil.

8. Valve: NOTE: DO NOT DO UNLESS YOU HAVE VALVE TOOL! start buy taking your valve tool and removing your valve retainer nut. Then take out the nut holding the valve in. If youíre lucky it will slide out. If not you will have to judder it out. Take it and wipe it down and lube it with Dow 33 or paintball oil. Then reinstall

9. Trigger Frame/ Sear: Basically just wipe down until clean and lubricate sear. With paintball gun oil or Dow 33 lube.

10. Regulator: This you can take apart and clean then reassemble. But I do not suggest doing unless your smart with regs. Instead you can just wipe it down clean out the inside as far as you can with a q-tip and maybe put some oil inside of it.

11. Put back together and put about 2-3 drops of oil in your asa (air source adapter) and shoot the gun until oil is cleared.

12. play paintball and repeat steps 1-11.

Electronic Autococker info:

Since there isnít much more to add about electronic autocockers I will just list what to do to keep your electronic autococker in working form.

1. When installing your eblade race frame etc. make sure that you do not pinch the solenoid wires in between the body and the frame. If you do manage to get them stuck in-between you could damage your wires significantly.

2. Setting the lug is a very important aspect of the electronic autococker. If you have your lug down to far your autococker may seem to fire improperly... for example. You will shoot once then the next few shots wont fire air but will recock. What cause's that is the lug is too far down and the sear can clear it all the way allowing it to properly cycle the marker. Therefore, you should put your lug all the way up and adjust it just so that its smooth on the sear, but you canít push on the cocking rod and uncock it. That will also give you the most battery life and will cause less wear on the sear/lug.

3. Another thing to keep the best performance out of your electronic autococker is to lubricate the sear. I know planet eclipse recommends using HHS 2000 lubricate. Basically you spray the back of your sear and it will keep it nice and happy for a while. There is a video at http://planeteclipse.com/site/eDownloads.asp that will teach you how to lubricate the sear.

4. Setting the LPR can be done a few different ways. To get the lowest operating pressure simply put your e-blade onto "classic" mode. Hold the trigger down and slowly turn up the LPR. Once the hammer has been cocked and the marker has fully cycled give it a little turn to make sure you donít have any problems on the field ex. not cycling properly. Another way of doing this is to just leave it on semi mode and slowly turn up the LPR and pull the trigger as you do it. Once the gun is cycling properly, give it that extra turn to prevent problems.

5. THERE ARE NO PERFECT OR BETTER SETTINGS!! I donít know how many threads are started about people asking what the best settings are. Well you can read this now. Factory fast and the eye on will give you your best performance. Now if you donít have an eye, you can't just take any random settings off of the internet and put them into your e-blade and expect it to fire 34.324973487 balls a second. Maybe if you lucky or if you have the same gun set up as the person who posted the settings your gun wont work properly. The best way to get the "perfect settings" is to read the manual for what ever kind of frame you have and set the settings to your markers capability.

I just might get some pics up if I am in the mood.

~P8NTBALLER590
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:46 PM   #8
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This came out of Glenn Palmer's mouth, "take a shower with it." Literally. Water will not damage the autococker at all. Swishing it around hot water for 30 seconds will get most of the dirt, paint, whatever you have in it.

do you mean without disasembling it??
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:45 PM   #9
Andrew Orde
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No i think you should take just about everything off. I wouldnt rinse out any of my regs, my ram, any e-frames (obviously) a 3-way, my asa..... But i would totally disassemble the whole gun and and rinse out parts seperatly
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Old 03-27-2005, 03:31 PM   #10
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Shouldn't this be stickied, spyderman? Or else the FAQ's gonna go off the main page in a week, then people will have to search for it. You know what that means...it'll be virtually nonexistant.
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Old 03-27-2005, 03:47 PM   #11
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its linked to in the stickies. Its only open and comes up because its still oppen for additions.
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Old 03-27-2005, 07:08 PM   #12
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I see *goes back and rereads stickies cuz it's been a while*.
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My sisters friend enjoys gleeking on my arm while im playing nintendo. I make her regret it every time.
This space is reserved for Chris (f2f4) and those in service to our country.

Denison '10
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Old 12-01-2005, 01:22 PM   #13
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So he said that you should take a showere with a electro paintball marker?? sounds liek a big mess, electronics+water=catastrophy
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Old 12-01-2005, 02:33 PM   #14
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No, if you read the post that this quote came from (#3), you will see that it is under the heading "Basic maintenance on a mechanical autococker" - so no, this is not recommended for electronic markers.
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Old 12-01-2005, 02:40 PM   #15
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would it be posible if i detached the frame and the pnewmatics??
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Old 08-11-2007, 05:28 PM   #16
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is 3-n-1 ok to use?
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Old 08-11-2007, 05:59 PM   #17
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i wouldnt use it...try to use Gold Cup or similar paintball marker oil

Holy great god in heaven, someone read the stickies
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Last edited by killertip212 : 08-11-2007 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 08-12-2007, 12:14 AM   #18
Uziel Gal
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Chingford, London, UK
Some multi-purpose oils contain cleansing additives, rust removers/inhibitors and other chemicals, which may rapidly attack o-rings. Stick with paintball approved lubricants, or if you want something more generic that you can buy in bulk, try air tool oils.
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