This write up by me is a little bit out dated due to the E2 out now, but this is between the E1 and the Race.
I will start out with THE MOST frequently asked question about each Electronic Autococker Frame... and that is......
QUESTION: Which frame is better? The Eclipse E-Blade or the RaceGun Frame?
Well, I can answer that question very simply ....
ANSWER: NEITHER FRAME IS BETTER THEN THE OTHER! PERIOD.
Let me start out with some PROS and CONS about each of the frames. I will try my hardest to be as completely un-biased as possible. Yes, I do own an EBlade, but I have never bashed a RaceFrame because I believe each frame is equally as good and has it's ups and downs. I have also used both frames.
---PROS/CONS WITH A * BY THE SIDE OF THEM CAN EITHER BE A PRO OR A CON DEPENDING ON THE USER OF THE FRAME. IT ALSO MIGHT HAVE SOME OF MY OWN OPINION ADDED. I AM DOING THIS TO TRY AND BE COMPLETELY UN-BIASED TO EACH FRAME AND NOT TRY TO CAUSE CONTROVERSY!---
The Eclipse E-Blade Frame
-The E-Blade comes standard with the frame, solenoid, anti-chop eye, eye covers, hoses, screws, stickers, and a fully laminated 50 page manual. (*NOTE* The WorrBlade kit comes with everything I listed above, but also comes with a nylon set-screw lock down hammer and an all delrin bolt w/ o-rings.)
*-The E-Blade uses a standard 9v alkaline battery to power it on. Compared to the RaceFrame, the RaceFrame uses a rechargeable battery-pack.
-The E-Blade has an outer LED screen display on the back of the frame used to view and change settings easily.
*-The E-Blade uses a reflective anti-chop eye. With this eye, you can adjust the sensitivity for different colors of paint.
*-The E-Blade trigger is a magnetic type. It uses a magnet to return the trigger instead of a standard spring trigger like the RaceFrame.
-The E-Blade has three factory pre-sets. Factory Slow, Factory Medium, and Factory fast speeds. These modes are good because it allows you to set a certain Factory setting to meet the capabilities of your marker. These Factory pre-sets also come in handy when you mess something up on the frame because you can always reset back whenever in doubt.
-The E-Blade frame is cheaper in price compared to the RaceFrame.
*-The Eclipse E-Blade comes standard with a flat blade style trigger and the WorrBlade comes standard with a double/curved style trigger.
-The E-Blade is very VERY Dependant on batteries. A low battery can really alter it's capabilities/functions. They say you will get 20-22,000 shots off of one standard 9v battery... don't believe it. Eclipse recommends that you use Duracell Ultras in the E-Blade, I recommend you do so also! With my experience, I have tried Rayovac 9v's and got only 4,000-6,000 shots. Not many. Same with Energizers. But, when I tried Duracell Ultras, I have gotten near 15,000 shots before it was dead.
*-The E-Blades' anti chop eye is a much debated topic. Of my experience, it's either you completely love the eye, or you just completely hate it! It's a reflective type, so paint color matters. It's not like the break-beam eye where paint color does not matter at all. I have not come across a problem yet
with my EBlade eye, its working great right now. But, the majority of people believe the EBlade eye is not worth it, and is very cheaply made. I've seen people go through eyes like crazy, even keeping extra eyes in their toolbox. My final say on the EBlade eye is "Not as good as the break-beam eye system, but when it works, it works good."
-The E-Blade only has one firing speed, semi-automatic. Another much debated about topic. People are always asking "why? why no full auto on the E-Blade?!." Well simply because Planet Eclipse could not put a fully-automatic mode due to certain laws in England. Yes, it would be nice to have full-auto on this frame to really test your markers firing capabilities, but, there is nothing we can do about it so, stop crying about it
*-The magnetic trigger is COMPLETELY PERSONAL PREFERENCE. IT IS A PRO TO SOME, AND A CON TO OTHERS. BEST THING TO DO IS TO TRY BOTH, AND DECIDE FROM THERE!
-The E-Blade does not use standard .45 grips. At the moment, the only grips that fit the E-Blade are the grips that come with the Frame stock.
The RaceGun Frame
*-The RaceGun Frame uses an internal rechargeable battery-pack. This will give you 40k+ shots on one full charge. This is stunning compared to the E-Blades shot count on one 9v.
-The RaceGun Frame has multiple firing speeds including fully automatic. Compared to the E-Blade only having one firing speed.
*-The RaceGun Frame uses a spring trigger instead of a magnetic trigger like the E-Blade frame
*-The RaceGun Frame uses a break-beam type anti-chop eye. Paint color does not matter with this anti-chop eye system.
*-The RaceGun Frame uses a Computer/Palm Pilot to change firing modes/settings.
-The RaceGun Frame is a standard .45 frame which allows after market .45 grips.
-The RaceGun Frame has two style triggers, bump and flat style.
*-If the battery pack in the RaceGun Frame ever dies on you during a game or at the field, you are pretty much screwed. The only solution to this is to make sure you charge it fully before you go play!
-The RaceGun Frame does not come with the anti-chop eye and covers like the E-Blade frame does. This is another 60-70 bucks or so you have to dish out if you want an anti-chop system for your RaceGun Frame.
*-LIKE I SAID EARLIER ABOUT THE E-BLADE FRAME. THE RACEGUN FRAME USES A SPRING TRIGGER. THIS IS A PRO FOR SOME, AND A CON FOR OTHERS. BEST THING TO DO IS TO TRY THEM BOTH AND MAKE A DECISION FROM THERE!
*-The RaceGun Frame needs a computer or Palm Pilot to change firing modes/settings. This can be a major hassle if you need to change something at the field and you don't have a a Palm Pilot or a Computer on hand.
Before I go any further, I say again! I HAVE TRIED MY ULTIMATE BEST TO TRY AND BE COMPLETELY UN-BIASED TO EACH OF THE TWO FRAMES I HAVE DISCUSSED. I BELIEVE EACH FRAME IS PLENTY FAST AND HAS IT'S OWN UPS AND DOWNS WHICH MAKES BOTH FRAME EQUALLY AS GOOD. YES, I HAVE ADDED SOME OF MY OWN OPINION ON EACH BUT THEY WERE ADDED WITHOUT ANY INTENTION OF BEING BIASED.
This is just very basic information on each of the frames. I suggest people that are looking into getting an Electronic Frame for their Autococker to read this over, and make a decision based on what will suit YOU the best! What don't you like? What do you like? The BEST thing to do is to go out and try both frames before you make your decision. This is the BEST way to make a final decision. Get a feel for each frame, decide what you like and dislike, then make a decision! The WORST thing you can do is buy the frame without even trying it, then getting it and deciding you don't like the feel for it. And by this time, it might be too late to go back!
Investing in an Electronic Frame is very expensive and a big commitment! So make it a big deal and test them out before you make a decision!