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Old 02-13-2005, 09:31 AM   #1
Everlight389
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How to build an autococker thread

How to build your own custom autococker

I hate this part, but I have to put it in. I am putting my trust in the readers to use caution and common sense while assembling these markers/parts, and I am not liable for any damage you may cause to yourself or others by not having your regulators set right, and having hoses blow off, resulting in you being startled and throwing your marker into your 55-gallon fishtank, causing a massive spill. Nobody else on these forums are responsible either, it's your own fault if something goes wrong. And by reading this article you agree to the above terms.


With that little piece being said, here's the article:

First, understand that there are a fair amout of tools and tweaking involved in getting one to work, and this isn't an easy task to complete without patience and taking the time to understand how it works. With that in mind, here are the tools required:

Standard allen wrench set (1/16-3/8'')
Blue loctite
Teflon tape
Cresent wrench (small/medium size, 11/16 for macroline)
Strap wrench
Needlenose pliers
Torx screw tool
Scissors or razorblade
Dental/O-ring picks are also good, but not required
1/4'' 12 point socket wrench (not pictured)
Paintball gun oil (Gold cup, Dye, ect)

Those are the minimum amount of tools. I highly also suggest a valve tool for getting the valve in place and these scissors for cutting the macroline and 3-way hoses. They are very versatile, sharp, and very, very strong, along with being cheap.



For parts, you need:

A body with standard autococker thread tapping (feedneck as well)
Front block
Front block screw
RAM
LPR
3-way and 3-way rod (barbs if they aren't on already)
Valve (pin, springs, and retaining screw)
Internal screw/nut (not exactly sure what it's actually called)
Hammer (and spring)
IVG
Bolt
Cocking rod
Actuator rod
Pump arm
Trigger frame (and screws)
Barrel
Vertical ASA (and screw)
Regulator (Gauge, if desiered)
Macroline (2 fittings and hose)
ASA (drop forward if desired)
3-way hoses
Ball detent (Depending on the body either one, two, or none)
Beavertail (Required at tournaments)

1. Well, the easy part first. Get the front block and put the screw and o-rings on it and screw the assembly into the body (using a 3/16'' allen wrench). Make sure to put o-rings on both sides! Otherwise you will leak.

2. Take the 3-way and screw it into the front block. Unlike the other parts, it does not have to be ultra tight to work correctly.

3. Teflon tape the LPR and using the cresent wrench screw it in to the front block (lower right slot). Just put it in far enough that it starts to get hard to turn, past that you will risk stripping threads and other problems. Depending on the size of the LPR you are using, you may have to remove the top barb in order to screw it in without running into the 3-way. After you have it screwed in well enough you should blue loctite (just a dab!) the barb and screw it back in.

4. Screw in the RAM using your hands into the front block (upper right side). Aligning the barbs to face the 3-way and LPR are more important than it being very tight. On the bottom of the front block there is a small screw (3/16'' I believe). Unscrew it, put some teflon tape on it and screw it back in (Note: this does not necessarely apply to all front blocks, but if you gas it up and it leaks then it needs to be done)







5. Now the fun part... getting in the valve. Essentially you want to take this assembly

and put it inside the body, with the spring first, followed by the valve pin, and lastly by the valve.

I highly reccomend using the valve tool, as you can damage the internal threads and cause other problems if it is not in correctly. What I did wasn't the greatest idea, and using a valve tool should be a requirement, not a suggestion
If you don't have the tool:

Take the valve spring and drop it into the body, then the valve pin, and make sure that they join together correctly. After that (using a wrench or something long but hard) gently push the valve down the lower tube and into place. Once you have it in place the lower retaining screw should align with the hole in the valve, so teflon tape the lower screw and screw it into place (using a 1/8'' allen wrench), hence its name. Make sure not to screw it in too far otherwise you can have valve pin problems. This takes some time and patience, but it can be done without the tool, but I don't reccomend it (see below). After the valve is in, take the internal screw/nut and screw it in (5/16'' allen). The valve pin should be farther out than the internal screw, so it may be a little difficult to screw in.

This picture was hard to take, but you will see the internal screw and valve pin.



At the time of writing I already had my valve in, and without the tool it is very difficult to get it back out. Looking at the Pbreview picture of the Eclipse valve should give you the general idea of how it's supposed to be.

6. After the valve, the hammer seems easy. Insert the hammer (screw down) into the lower feed tube, the flat side with a small hole in the middle first. With my hammer I had to oil the screw and work it loose before it was turnable, so you may need to use a vice (use rubber inserts to hold it) to loosen it up. Then put in the hammer spring, and the screw in the IVG (3/16'' allen wrench). Refer to the picture below to get the general idea of what the assembly looks like.
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Last edited by Everlight389 : 03-17-2005 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 02-13-2005, 09:32 AM   #2
Everlight389
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7. After that put on the trigger frame (1/8'' allen wrench)



8. Screw in the pump arm.

9. Screw in the back block (see timing articles for length)

10. Then screw in the cocking rod, and see if they gun cocks. If not, screw in (righty tighty) the hammer screw using a 1/8'' allen wrench through the top hole. About 3-4 complete revolutions should yeild the result of being able to cock the hammer and release it. If you can cock it and are not able to release it, then loosen it a revolution.



11. Take the actuator rod and put it in the trigger frame, and attach the 3-way rod (using a 1/16 allen wrench).



12. Screw in the vertical ASA (1/4'' 12 point socket), followed by the regulator (make sure it has a correct size o-ing) and using a strap wrench tighten it into place.

13. Screw the ASA into the trigger frame, and screw the macroline fitting into it. If you use a drop forward, attach that as well. Normally ASA's use 1/8 inch allen wrenches, but some are different.

Here is a picture for reference:



14. Screw in the macroline fitting into the regulator (using the 11/16 cresent wrench). You may also use a cresent, but be careful not to scratch the regulator in the process.

15. Screw in the ball detent (using a socket or allen wrench, depending on the type)

16. Put the bolt into place (using the pull pin). On my bolt, I had to loctite the rear screw into place to prevent the pull pin and bolt from coming loose. Not all bolts are the same, though. Refer to the above picture if you need to see how it fits into the back block assembly.

17. Attach the 3-way hoses. If you have a typical 3-way, the rear barb (towards the back of the gun) goes to the rear of the RAM, the middle goes to the LPR, the furthest barb goes to the front of the RAM. You may need to widen the ends of the hoses for the size of the barbs on the LPR. You can use either scissors or an exacto-knife to cut them. Shocktech bomb, ANS, and several other types the front and rear barb are reversed, meaning that the rear barb goes to the front of the RAM and the front barb goes to the back. Those crash scissors I listed are perfect for cutting the 3-way hoses and Macroline, providing a good, clean cut with little effort.

18. Adjust the regulators to the lowest possible pressure. With a tickler LPR you unscrew it (left) as much as possible. Make sure the cap is still attached to the actual regulator, otherwise bad things could happen.

19. Time the gun. I suggest doing the cocking rod, back block, and hammer lug adjustment first. Then, put about 10-15 drops of oil in the ASA, cock the gun, and gas it up. Now, realize that wierd things can happen the first time. There may be a leak somewhere that needs fixed, or the 3-way may not be properly timed resulting in air rushing out the 3-way. Just be careful and time the 3-way rod (which takes the longest of any of the adjustments), then gas up the gun, rinse, repeat, until it doesn't leak and cycles normally.

20. Add the barrel, hopper, paintballs, and go have fun!

A couple notes:

I highly suggest the use of a high output HPA tank over co2. Liquid co2 can cause damage to internal seals inside the gun, causing them to freeze and break If you have to use co2 or can't afford HPA, then make sure to get an anti-siphon installed in your co2 tank and to get an on/off valve. That will keep most, if not all, co2 liquid out of your gun. Adding a pair of Palmers stabilizers also helps keep co2 out of the gun. Using co2 correctly is just as good as using HPA, but with the money spent to get a pair of Palmers stabilizers, antisiphon, and on/off you could easily have just bought a cheap HPA tank. With autocockers that use solenoid valves, co2 is not suggested at all.

Also, the sizes of the allen wrench are tenative. In other words, they may or may not apply to all bodies, or may be different than I have listed. If you find that one of the ones I have listed is wrong, please let me know and I will fix it.

Sean McIntyre, 2005. You may copy it, print it, share it, but please don't edit the article or take credit for it.

[/endofarticle]

My Eastern Fox Snake was out, so I took a picture of him with the gun.



Useful links:

The one, the only, timing video. Nice job Joe. Please don't download it excessively to conserve his bandwith link

Special thanks to:

f2f4, for really getting me into paintball, and helping me get my gun working nicely.

Crede777, who tried to keep the gun oil off my Mom's good dining room tablecloth during step 19. Also for buying a paintball gun, so I had an excuse to buy one

My Dad, for having more tools than the average 20 american households combined

My Mom, for not going crazy about me getting oil on her tablecloth

PBNation member Thomas, he helped me correct the first draft

Photobucket for hosting my pictures

And lastly to the moderators/administrators, for keeping this a great resource for people like myself and thousands of other paintballers. Thanks everyone!

Any comments and constructive criticism are always welcome
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Last edited by Everlight389 : 03-17-2005 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 02-13-2005, 09:33 AM   #3
f2f4
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NICE JOB!

I vote immediate sticky.
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Old 02-13-2005, 09:42 AM   #4
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i second for sticky, all in favor say "sticky"
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Old 02-13-2005, 09:47 AM   #5
Andrew Orde
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OmG!111eleven!11

In all honesty, great job. I vote sticky. A+
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Old 02-13-2005, 11:55 AM   #6
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It warrants a sticky, but it also warrants a pic of you, me, and Chris. Either that or your mom's tablecloth you ruined with the oil
Props...
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crede777
It warrants a sticky, but it also warrants a pic of you, me, and Chris. Either that or your mom's tablecloth you ruined with the oil
Props...
Haha, yeah.

Oh, and Eric, we gotta start bugging Phil to get the team site up.

Anyways, back on-topic:

Any other questions regarding building a 'cocker?
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:39 PM   #8
rook785
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yes, how long did it take and how much did it cost using those parts?
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Old 02-13-2005, 03:06 PM   #9
Everlight389
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Quote:
Originally posted by rook785
yes, how long did it take and how much did it cost using those parts?
First time with tweaking and stuff? About 3 hour or so I guess.

And price, I built it for $430. If I had penny pinched and waited and ordered stuff online, I could have got down to about $400.

We'll have to get a picture of all of us in jerseys with our guns
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Old 02-13-2005, 03:24 PM   #10
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Old 02-13-2005, 03:41 PM   #11
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Looks awesome, I vote for a sticky!
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Old 02-13-2005, 04:04 PM   #12
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building a cocker isn't very hard...i bought the parts and built my first one before ever taking one appart...
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Old 02-13-2005, 04:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by cutomcocker1
building a cocker isn't very hard...i bought the parts and built my first one before ever taking one appart...
Neither had I... thats why I said it takes patience
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Old 02-13-2005, 05:13 PM   #14
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Stick fer shizzel. Damn I wasnted you to be an 05 so I could say I say I saw an 05 make an intelligent post... owell still a killer post non the less.
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Old 02-13-2005, 05:31 PM   #15
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good job! sticky!
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Old 02-13-2005, 08:15 PM   #16
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nice post! Good work!
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Old 02-14-2005, 09:50 AM   #17
Everlight389
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Thaks for all the complements guys, glad you all like it. If there's any other pictures that you think would be helpful I can take them. Later I'm going to take the trigger frame off of my gun and take a picture of the valve retaining screw and add it, as I forgot to do so earlier. If you have any questions about the gun, parts, or anything else related to custom autococker, don't hesitate to ask.

Edit:

Added pictures of the regulator, inside the vertical ASA, and the valve retaining screw.
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Last edited by Everlight389 : 02-14-2005 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 02-15-2005, 01:36 PM   #18
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Update:

I changed the sizes of all the pictures to make them fit on the page better, especially for printing. If you haven't cleaned your IE cache you may have to refresh to be able to see the difference.
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Old 02-15-2005, 03:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by mopo-85
Stick fer shizzel. Damn I wasnted you to be an 05 so I could say I say I saw an 05 make an intelligent post... owell still a killer post non the less.
Him being a 04 dosen't mean that he's inexperienced in paintaball. I personally didnt get on these forums 2 years after I started playing. Comming from May '03 dont mean i'm smart, but i've certainly picked up a load of info from these forums. Everlight got over me too, i still dont know how to post pictures yet!

Anyways, Everlight, i give you props for doing this, and I think you deserve a sticky. This is the most intelligent post you've posted all year!
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Old 02-15-2005, 03:32 PM   #20
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i've already put it in the sticky archive, so you can stop calling for it to be stickied.
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