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Old 08-16-2005, 08:31 PM   #1
Dark Master
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New and Improved guide to upgrading your 'Cocker.

This is always being updated. If I left something out that you think deserves to be in here, please, PM ME. DON'T POST HERE. Lets leave this thread for questions ONLY.

It's been brought to my attention, that when people click the links to Compulsivepaintball.com, that they don't work. To solve this problem if you encounter it, is to close all Internet programs running on your computer, then re-open a new one. It should work now.

12-20: Trilogy parts added. Look at my 3rd post.


Since the old upgrade thread is pretty outdated. I thought I would make a new one. It’s been approved by both mods. I’ll list a short description on how it will improve the ‘Cocker. I’ll also list some brands that are good and where you can buy them.

3-way: A new 3-way can give a shorter/lighter pull. Will not work on Trilogy's. Some good brands are:

Shocktech Bomb.
Belsales Hollowpoint.
WGP CT.

Anodizing: For cosmetic purposes only. Should be the last thing you do to your ‘Cocker. Some places that are good are:

A+ Plus.
FBM.
EPM.

ASA: For cosmetic and Feel only. Comes in two designs, straight and 15*. Some examples of them are:

KAPP straight.
KAPP 15*.

ASA Screw: Only needed if you are building a custom ‘Cocker. Here’s a link to one:

WGP Asa Screw.

Back Block: For looks and to reduce weight to increase Rate of Fire. Some good ones are:

CCM Delrin.
SLIK Mini.
Jackal.

Ball Detent: A new ball detent is mostly for show, but it also helps in stopping double feeding. Some examples of them are:

CP.
Kila.
Hybrid.

Beavertail: Just for looks. And some tournaments/field might require them. Take a look at these:

Belsales Wire.
Free flow.
Shocktech.

Boards: For a faster shooting 'Cocker. Here's a link to some:

Zero-B Board.
Morlock and Mini-Morlock.
*The Morlock and Mini Morlock are a custom install. It is NOT a drop in board.

Bodies: For mostly cosmetic upgrade, unless the kit is a half-block, which will increase your rate of fire. Some nice ones are:

Free Flow Lotus and Ryhthm Bodies and Body kits.
Halfblocks.
AIM Body Kits.

Bolt: To increase flow and to reduce weight to increase rate of fire. Some good ones are:

CCM.
Eclipse Dart.
Orange.
SLIK.
AKA.

Continued below...
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Last edited by Dark Master : 01-28-2006 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:32 PM   #2
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...Continued from above.

Cocking Rod. A new Cocking rod can reduce cocking mass, but not by much. It is also for looks. Some nice ones are:

SLIK.
Free flow.
KAPP Twisted.

Drops, and ASAs/On-Offs: For looks and feel only. Here's some links to drops and ASAs/on-offs:

Drops.
ASAs and On/Offs.

Feednecks: To hold your hopper in place. Also to improve the looks of your 'Cocker. The feedneck must be threaded to use one. Will not work on Trilogy's. Here are some nice ones:

CCM.
Hybrid.
WGP.
And for all you 'Cocker owners out there that don't have a threaded feedneck, this is for you:
04 and Trilogy Trinity T-Lock.

Front Blocks: For looks and less weight. Some nice ones are:

Jackal.
Free flow.

Front Block Screw/LPC: CAn reduce opperating pressure if it's a older style 'Cocker. Other then that, it's mostly for looks. Some nice ones are:

Chrome WGP.
CCM.
Jackal.
KAPP LPC.

Grips: For Looks and feel only. Here's some links to where you can get them:

Grips 1.
Grips 2.

Hammer: A heavy hammer can able you to use lighter springs and lower pressure. Not meant for E-‘Cockers, since it can slow the gun down. Some good ones are:

Eclipse Hammer.
Free flow SS.
Jackal.

Hammer & IVG Combo: A kit that includes both. Most often come with springs as well. There's also rex kits, which make it easier to adjust the velocity. Some good ones are:

Belsales Rex-Dialer.
Freeflow.
Eclipse Rex-Dialer.

Hose and Elbows: Every 'Cocker needs it. For looks only. There's Stainless Steal and Macroline. I perfer Macroline, because it's easier to setup and to remove, but SS is more durable. Here's some links to SS, Macroline, and Elbows:

Macroline.
SS.
Elbows.

IVG: For looks only. Here are some nice ones:

CCM.
Shocktech.

Low Pressure Regulator: A new LPR can lower cocking pressure to reduce kick. It can also give consistency when re-cocking. Will not work on Trilogy's with out a adaptor. Some good brands are:

Planet Eclipse Dart.
AKA SCM.
Palmers Micro-Rock.
Shocktech FGP.
CCM J2.
KAPP Rhino.
MacDev.

Lug: For mech 'Cockers, get a round lug, and for electro 'Cockers, get a flat lug. Here are link to those two:

Flat.
Round.

Pneumatic Hoses: For looks only. Links to some:

Hoses.

Pull Pins: Again, to reduce cocking mass and for looks. Also, some bolts don't come with a ball stop in them, but are threaded for one. Look at the last link for one. Here are some good ones:

Free flow.
Orange.
SLIK.
AKA.

Pump Arm: For looks and to reduce cocking mass. Here are some good ones:

CCM.
KAPP.

QEV(Quick Exhaust Valve): Can reduce cocking pressure and increase rate of fire. Some good ones are:

Eclipse.
Free flow.

Continued below...
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:34 PM   #3
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...Continued from above.

Ram: A new ram can lead to a smooth re-cock. It can also lower the cocking pressure and increase cycle rate. Some will fit on Trilogy's, some won't. Depends on how big they are. More info can be found here.Some good brands are:

Belsales .44.
Eclipse Nexus.
Free flow SMC.
Shocktech.
MPP.
CCM.

Spring Kits: A spring kit can increase efficiency and lower kick. Only kit you will need:

Maddman.

Timing Rod: For building a custom 'Cocker or yours broke. Will not work on Trilogy's. Here's a link to one:

Timing Rod.

Triggers: For looks and feel only. Some nice ones for mechs and electros are:

Orracle Trigger.
Eclipse Samurai.
Samurai 2.

Trigger Frames: Can increase Rate of Fire if the frame is mechanical. If it is electric, then it will drastically increase your rate of fire and have a nice ease pull. Here are some good mech/electric frames:

Planet Eclipse E2.
05 Race frame.
Select Fire Frame.
Jackal.
Free flow/Eclipse Mech.

Valve: A new valve can increase efficiency and flow. Will not work on Trilogy's. Some good ones are:

Eclipse Supercharger.
Jackal.
Free flow.
AKA.
Maddman.
MacDev.

Valve Screws: For building a custom 'Cocker or your old ones somehow broke/stripped. Here are the two you need:

Jam-Nut.
Valve Retaining Screw.

Kits:

Nexus/Belsales Upgrade Kit.
SLIK Lite Kit.
CCM E-Kit.
CCM Lower Internals.
CCM Pump Kit.

Tools, Test Parts, Lube, and Orings:

O-ring Kit.
LPR Test gauge.
Valve Tool.
ASA removal socket.
Dow 33.
Gold Cup Oil.
KAPP Screw Kit.


Trilogy Specific Parts
This section is for parts that are made for Trilogy's, since they do have some different parts compaired to other 'Cockers.

Feednecks: This slips over any feedneck that isn't threaded for 'Cocker feednecks. This includes Trilogy's and 'Cockers with pressed in feednecks.

Trinity T-Lock. (Contact Trinity to order it)

LPRs and Adaptors: Since Trilogy's don't use a front block, they (the LPR) thread right into the body. Because of that, you couldn't use aftermarket LPR's on it when the Trilogy came out. Now you can. Once choice, is the Palmers' LPR. It threads right into the body. No adaptors required. There is also the TechT LPR nut adaptor, which lets you use aftermarket LPR's that would normally thread into the front block of a 'Cocker. Here are the links for both:

Palmers' LPR. (Look down for it)
TechT LPR Nut. (At the bottom)

Timing Rod: On a stock Trilogy, you can't adjust the length of the pull. With this timing rod, you now can. Here's the link:

TechT Timing Rod. (Look down for it)

Valve: Since the Trilogy uses a different type of Valve setup, you couldn't use aftermarket valves or springs. Well, Palmers' came out with their version of the valve. Here's the link:

Palmers' Trilogy LT Valve. (Look down for it)

Continued below...
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:38 PM   #4
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...Continued from above.

Universal Parts.

Air Systems: To power your 'Cocker to shoot faces. HPA is STRONGLY recommended. If you have to use C02, make sure you get it Anti-Siphoned. Also, make sure you have a inline reg that can handle C02, such as a Stabilizer (look under regulators for links to a Stabilizer). Here are links for HPA and C02.

Crossfire HPA Systems.
MacDev HPA Systems.
Centerflag HPA Systems.
20oz Anti-Siphoned C02 tank.

Barrels: A must for any gun. A barrel kit is even more important for a 'Cocker, to match up the paint so it doesn't roll out the barrel or require a lot of air to push out. It can also provide consistency and keep your efficicency at its peek. Some good exampels of 2-piece barrels and barrel kits are:

Stiffi 1-piece.
Dye Ultralight 2-piece.
Custom Products 2-piece.
Empire Barrel kits.
Redz Peppersticks Barrel kit.
Warped Sportz Lucky 15 Barrel kit.
Stiffi Switch Kit Barrel Kit.
Custom Products Base Kit, Full Bore kit, and Complete Kit Barrel kits.

Hoppers: Feeds paint to your 'Cocker. If you have a electric 'Cocker, look into a Halo B or Reloader B. If yours is a mech, look into Revys and Reloaders. Here are some links:

Viewloader Revolution.
Empire Reloader 2.
Viewloader Evlution.
Ricochet Apache LED.
Odyssey Halo B w/ Rip Drive.
Empire Reloader B.

Regulators: Can provide consistent shots, and allow you to sweetspot the reg to provide excellent efficiency. Here are some links to some good ones:

CP.
Dye Hyper 2.
AKA 2-Liter, 2-Liter Plus LP, and 2-Liter Plus HP.
AKA Sidewinder Short, and Medium Length.
MacDev Gladiator.
Palmers Stabilizer.

My recommendations for the first 3 upgrades (in any order):

HPA: A must. More consistent then c02. Plus, your o-rings will thank you later on.
Barrel Kit: ‘Cockers need barrel kits to have perfect paint to barrel match. Plus, it will provide consistency when shooting and keep your efficiency at its max.
Motorized Loader: A gravity feed simply wont keep up. Look into revys and reloaders if you shoot a mech. For electric ‘Cockers, look into Halo/Reloader B’s and Evlutions.
The rest is pretty much up to you. Those are the basics that every ‘Cocker should have. After you got those, this is what I recommend (not in any particular order):

Inline Reg.
LPR.
Spring Kit.
3-way.
Ram (with or without Qevs).
Bolt.
Electro Frame.

The rest isn’t a must, as it won’t help much, but it will help some.

Any questions/comments, please, PM me. If you would like to add something that you think should be on the list, again, PM me. Lets keep this thread clean.
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Last edited by Dark Master : 12-10-2005 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 08-17-2005, 08:50 AM   #5
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I appreciate the contribution, but like I said, I will finish it up today. I would also appreciate if you guys delete your posts after I finish it, to keep the thread as clean as possible. Thanks.
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:28 AM   #6
Uziel Gal
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No more shouts for Sticky! All deleted.

You'll note that Dark Master has already spoken to Spyderman and myself regarding this, and is providing a more up to date upgrade guide than the one currently available. The presumption therefore is that, unless everything suddenly goes horribly wrong (and I don't think Dark will allow that to happen ), that this thread will replace or join the current upgrade thread.

Let Dark get on with his work, and if as is likely it's an improvement on the original, it will get stickied. A dozen shouts of "Sticky" won't change that. If you want to make suggestions fair enough - but they'll be deleted if they aren't helpful. Once your suggestions have been implemented or turned down, please delete your post to keep things clean. If Dark wants to keep this thread open once it is finished, you can all have a say then.

Next person who tries to demand something gets to stand in the corner for ten minutes.....

Edit - added to the Super-Duper faq.
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