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Old 02-20-2002, 03:36 PM   #1
Meph
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Testing Updated Newbie FAQ

Copyright 20020220 by Michael “Mephistopheles” Murphy

Ok, many times I’ve been asked about upgrades for the Model 98, and now also the 98 Custom. Well, here’s an insight that will help you decide what is right for you.

To start, before even getting an upgrade. Get quality tools. Such as an entire allen key set. Not some cheap ones from Wal Mart, either. Those can strip easy and be a waste of money. Check your local hardware store and find quality made allen key sets. You will need these to take apart anything in paintball. For example, taking apart your Model 98 or 98 Custom to clean it out, replace parts, or anything.

Along with tools, get a good paintball oil. Not vegetable oil or 10 W-30. Get paintball specific oil. Such as Hoppes 9, ProTeam Prolube, or PMI Perfect. There are many different types. But as long as they are made "specifically for paintball" then it's good for maintanence.
Because this is critical in your guns' overall life. These are not toys, they require regular maintanence. Normally, at least every other case of paint, about 4-5 drops in the ASA. Screw in the tank, and take about 20 dry-fire shots (note: with barrel off, otherwise you'll get oil in the barrel hurting accuracy).
For total break down maintanence, you'll only need to oil moving parts. Such as the bolt and hammer. These need to be oiled every so often. And along with those, all the o-rings require to be oiled. Otherwise they will dry up and need to replaced.

For chosing upgrades, it is all personal preference. Chose upgrades on anything you want to improve on your gun. If you want better accuracy, look into barrels and regulators. If you want to quiet the gun down, check out some RVA's. If you want the overall design more compact, look into a drop forward. Don't like CO2 clouds or it eating your O-rings, look into expansion chambers or even HPA systems. Whatever it is you are looking for, this article is for you. And this is my suggestion. Do not upgrade all at once. If you get one upgrade, play for a few weeks with it. Then add another, if you want to. This way, you will actually appreciate the benefits of the aftermarket upgrades.

Now then, your very first upgrade should be a new barrel. I strongly suggest this. Forget everything else until you get a new barrel. You have many choices, and many different price ranges. The choice you make depends on both styles of play and budget.

If you play more speedball, tourneys, and hyper/sup’air ball, you’ll want a shorter barrel. An 8”-10” would be the right size. Custom Products makes a nice 10” barrel for whichever color you want on the Model 98. Barrels of America also makes great barrels, and they’ll make them specially ported and sized for you. If you like, you can have them custom make an 8” long barrel, and I’d suggest the snake bit porting. You can find more information on these 2 barrels at www.barrelsofamerica.com and www.customproducts-az.com/index_pb.html .

If you play more recball and scenario games, then you’ll want a quiet barrel that is very accurate. Again, the Custom Product barrel comes to mind, because these can also be made in 12”, 14”, and 16” barrels. Also the Lapco Bigshot, because it’s very accurate, can now come in 14", but not a favorite choice for snipers due to it’s loudness. Find more out on this product at www.lapcopaintball.com . But some other barrels you may like to look into include the J&J Ceramic, DYE Aluminum or Boomstick, Armson Stealth, and Tippmann Flatline. The J&J and DYEs are nicely polished barrels that are both very accurate and both very quiet. But, the DYEs are just a little more expensive. Then with the Armson Stealth, it’s a picky barrel. But when you find a nice paint to barrel match… it’s unsurpassed! This internally rifled barrel is the quietest barrel I’ve heard on the market, and can be deadly accurate, although a little pricey. These barrels have more information found at www.jjperformance.com , www.dyeprecision.com ,and www.proteamproducts.com / www.armsonltd.co.uk .

Now what about those who travel a lot? We all know the majority of fields have FPO (Field Paint Only). Well, the one barrel you have might be too big, or too small of a bore for the field paint. So that could be a problem, since a very good paint to barrel match is critical for maximum performance out of any marker. Not to mention a big bored paint and a small bored barrel will turn into an instant blender, ruining your entire day of fun.
Well, for these people, today there are great solutions. Adjustable bores! That's right, thanks to improving technology in paintball, you don't have to suffer with one single bore forever. There are complete kits, or now there are even self-adjustable barrels (meaning no interchanging sleaves).

To start these off, the popular Smart Parts Freak Kit. With this kit, you change the sleave depending on the size of the paintball. So you will now always have a perfect paint to barrel match. More information on these kits can be found at www.smartparts.com .

Now for those that don't want to worry about all those sleaves, there is adjustable bored barrels. These are specially designed with a collapsible inner sleeve that features a straight rifle system. There is an outer adjustor that you just twist and click to adjust the size of the bore. For more information on this sophisticated barrel, check out www.psychoballistics.com .

As for the Flatline, this barrel deserves it’s own separate paragraph. The Tippmann Flatline gets both praised and boo-ed, but with good reason for both. The Flatline does just what it says; it will indeed outdistance every single gun out there… I personally guarantee it will, so won't Tippmann. I've tested the flatline. If installed properly, you will achieve decent accuracy. I will tell now, it is not the worlds greatest, but the accuracy is not as bad as some people bad-mouth it.
*Note: It must be installed properly. The reason some people don’t like how accurate it is, or that paint breaks too much, is because of the fact that they didn’t install it properly. To install properly, check out www.tippmann.com because they have detailed installation tips with pictures to help you along the way.

Now there are many many other barrels out there worth mentioning, I’ve only told of a few of the more popular barrels. But the fact still remains, whatever aftermarket barrel you chose it will be better than the Model 98’s stock barrel.
And don't believe all the hype that everybody puts on the Bigshot. It's loud, and not any more accurate than any other quality aftermarket barrel on the market. Accuracy's biggest factor is a good paint to barrel match. As I've stated before.
After the barrel, most other upgrades only slightly increase performance, quiet the gun, make a smaller profile… etc. But in the end, all future upgrades continue to add weight! That is why the barrel is the most important upgrade. Because it's the biggest factor in you actually hitting your target.

Now comes your next choice. Your air source. Are you going to run your Model 98 off of CO2 or N2/HPA?

For those of you who run off of CO2, you have a couple of options. Do you want an expansion chamber, or run off of a remote, install an antisiphon, or actually use a regulator with CO2?

Well, most expansion chambers are the same. They all do their job by turning liquid to gas. It pretty much depends on how many stages you get. If you want a more compact design, go with a 4 stage. But a 6 stage will help the liquid expand better. And actually now there is an "8-stage" expansion chamber, the PsychoBallistics X-core. This is worth a mention, because it’s one of the first to be built with both CO2 users and N2 users in mind, and “It will do a better job than any other chamber on the market but the price is much lower.” You can check out some nice expansion chambers, including the X-core, at stores like www.countypaintball.com

As far as remotes go, you have the choice of coiled or steel-braided. The steel braided will last a lot longer… but it is also a longer remote. The coiled remote will sometimes curl up on you when gassed up, but just a turn of the gun and it's loose. Plus the coiled remote is more compact and doesn’t get in the way as much as steel braided. And if you get coiled, make sure it’s with a high enough psi, at least 3000, but 4500 if you can afford. Both are very flexible, so this shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

And if you get a remote, which takes the tank weight off of your gun, you’ll need to hold onto it somehow. To do this, you’re probably going to get a harness any ways to help carry paint, so be sure to get a harness+1. That +1 on the harness means +1 spot to hold onto your tank.

Speaking of harnesses, you have many choices. If you don't run remote, then don't bother getting a harness +1 system. And the size of your harness will depend on your playing style. If you're a speedball player where matches last only a couple minutes, you man want to look into just a 2-pod harness. However, if you're a back player in speedball, or you play hour long recball games and hate refilling, then a harness with 4 or more pods would be a good suggestion.
Some of the most comfortable, and more popular, harnesses out there are made by Redz Comfort Gear. They make many different sizes and different colored harnesses. For basically any size that will suit your need. For more information on these check out www.redzcomfort.com .

Last edited by Meph : 03-21-2002 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 02-20-2002, 03:36 PM   #2
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Newbie upgrade FAQ.... continued!

For the anti-siphon, this is a tube that curls up inside the tank. It makes it so that only gas goes into the gun. Because in CO2 tanks, it is liquid CO2. With a regular tank, this liquid can get towards the pinhole and go out instead of gas. But with this, it maximizes the chance of only gas and keeping the liquid in the tank and not in your gun.
**Special Note: I must warn, however. Never run an anti-siphon and a remote together. Doing so will result in the total opposite effect. It will turn the tank into a siphon. Meaning that you'll bring pure liquid CO2 into the gun.

And for those who desire to use a regulator with CO2 use. There is only 1 regulator I can suggest. The Palmer Stabilizer. The reputation this has built, due to it's durability and quality, has ranked it as the best for CO2 use if needed. More information can be found at www.palmer-pursuit.com .

Now for those of you running off of N2/HPA, here is the rule of thumb. It is about 10 shots every cubic inch on a 3000psi tank ( 68ci = 680 shots, 88ci = 880 shots). And it is about 15 shots every cubic inch on a 4500 psi tank (68ci = 1020 shots, 88ci = 1320 shots).

There are many factors in purchasing an HPA system, so get a tank that’s good for you. There are many different sizes, different fixed output pressures or adjustable, different material, and different maximum fillable psi .

For those that like a lighter tank, go carbon-fiber wrapped. However, the steel tanks can take a ding a lot better compared to the damage it would do to the wrapped tanks.

Along with that, get one that fits your gas needs. If you play short games, you’ll only need a 47-68ci or so tank. But if you play scenarios, long rec. games, etc. you may want to consider a bigger tank like an 88-114ci. You can look up some good, inexpensive nitro tanks at sites like www.airconcepts.com (bulldog), www.pminetwork.com (pure energy), and www.paintballgear.com has some nice crossfire nitro tanks. These are all great tanks at great prices. And now with some of these fixed PSI tanks, they are set at not only 800psi output now, but they also have 450 fixed output. This is for those that want to use a screw-on tank and have a low pressure running marker.

But for those that have a bigger budget, there are better HPA tanks out there. Ones with a regulator already on it that is adjustable. So you can set the output psi to whatever suits your needs. The Smart Parts Maxflo ( www.smartparts.com ), the Angel Air ( http://www.wdp-paintball.co.uk/ ), and the Air America ( www.airamerica.com ) HPA systems are very good tanks. However, with these types of tanks, you must fit a more expensive bill. But it pays off, since consistency and air-flow are better.

Now if you are running N2, you may also want to look into a secondary regulator, which is one of the most underrated upgrades, I feel. This will help make your shots more consistent, and help you on adjusting your psi input for better efficiency. Because your input pressure will determine what type of regulator you should get. Be it a high pressure, or a low-pressure regulator. If you’re going for your gun to run on a low-pressure system, you’ll want a low-pressure reg of around 50-400 psi. But if you want your gun to run off of almost the stock psi, get a higher-pressure reg of around 400-800psi. With Low Pressure, you get less kickback from the gun. And in theory, it's supposed to soften the impact of the air on the ball resulting in less distortion and less ball breakage.

If you want to look up some good quality, durable, and inexpensive regulators, try www.airamerica.com and www.pminetwork.com
But for those running low pressure and need that higher airflow and top of the line consistency, check out the ANS Gen-X 2, AKALAMP Sidewinder ( www.akalamp.com ), and the Mac Dev Gladiator ( www.macdev.net )
*Note, some of these higher end regulators may require a lower input presser than some of the 800psi fixed output pressures. Check with each one to see if it of any concern.

**Another Note, to use expansion chamber or regulator, you must get a VA (vertical adapter). Go to www.tippmann.com or www.countypaintball.com to get yours.

Now that you have that settled on what your air source is, and for those of you who are not running off of a remote… you may want to look into a drop forward or cradle. These will help balance your gun out, and also shortens the overall length of your gun giving you a smaller profile. Used to be that they were created just for performance… but finally they’re starting to do their job, and look good doing it. You can find more info on some of these stylish drop forward from www.psychoballistics.com www.toxicperformance.com www.customproducts-az.com/index_pb.html , and pretty much more can be found at internet stores like www.countypaintball.com
Be sure to get one that is right for your gun. You can get one that is too long and doesn't really help balance out. If possible, go to the local store and actually see if they will let you try them out.

On to other upgrades, chances are you’re going to be in some fire fights with high ROF (rates of fire). Be it in recball or speedball, you’ll come across your need to fire a lot in one second. Which brings us to the next item on this list… the agitating hopper. Now there’s many on the market now. It used to be that you could only get a Revolution (as found at www.viewloader.com )or complain. Well, not anymore. Not only has Viewloader also made the eVLution to “compete” with the Revolution, other companies are into the action. The new loaders include the Ricochet, Mach 404, and Halo. You can find out more information on these at www.ricochet-2k.com (Ricochet), www.zappaintball.com (Mach404),and www.odysseypaintball.com (Halo).

With the Ricochet, you get a constant feed rate of 10-12 BPS (balls per second) with a single 9v battery. Unlike with the Revvy, which “burps” out 10-12 per second on 2 9v batteries. Plus, an added feature to the R2K is it’s overall design. It’s designed to deflect paintballs upon impact, hence the name ricochet. This is a very good choice for speedballers, since that bounce might determine the entire fate of you in that match. Maybe even ending up being the reason for your team winning a match.

The Mach 404 is inexpensive, and feed rate of 11BPS. It feeds not on sensors of balls passing into the breech, but rather a sensor tells when the gun has fired and it agitates then. With it's design, you won't be able to chop a ball in the hopper, so that is a big plus. All be it a loud loader. This is really the hopper with budget in mind. If you can afford to get another loader, get it!

Then the Halo. Feeding 16+ BPS. It has now been modified and instead of paddles, it has a roulette-wheel type of feeding system. The balls are force fed into the neck where gravity takes over. Even at angles of around 60 degrees, it will still feed paint as long as there is enough paint in the hopper to allow so. It is a heavy loader, and battery live is up to 20,000 shots. Rather nice. And the batteries are all in front, ballencing the hopper out nicely. Though expensive, this is one of the top choices of loaders out there. If you can afford it, look into this loader.

Other upgrades RVAs. And RVA is a Rear Velocity Adjuster. What this does is makes your stock adjuster screw stay put while you adjust the velocity through a screw on the rear of the gun. This type of velocity adjustment is more efficient of a system compared to the stock screw, so this is a decent product to look into. If you would consider one of these, which is easy to install and operate, check out www.lapcopaintball.com and www.psychoballistics.com .Also, check out the Full Boar Shadow setup. It is a flush RC (rear cocking) system with a built in RVA. So with the RC, you will be able to install a cover over the side cocking slot. This will help quiet the overall noise, and help keep anything out of the gun you don't want there. To find more information on these check out www.countypaintball.com .

However, if you still want a side cover to keep out debris, but want a different RVA…then look at the Psycho Ballistics Rocket Cock. This covers the side cover while also allowing you to pull the cocking pin once, push it into the side cover and it stays in place (as in no more moving side cocker). Read more at www.psychoballistics.com .
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Old 02-20-2002, 03:37 PM   #3
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Newbie upgrade fyi.... continued!


With all these upgrades, one might not want to overlook a better trigger, too! Well, then your best bet is to install a double trigger. These will reduce trigger pull to less than 1-lb. of pull. These are a very cheap and effective way to increase your ROF. Look them up at www.psychoballistics.com , www.tippmann.com (their proshop), and www.toxicperformance.com you have to remove the current trigger guard to install. If you have Classic 98, cut off guard. If you have 98custom, just pull it off. With the 98Custom, you can easily install a trigger guard with the inserts.
How about a trigger guard for the Classic 98? Well, Lapco has solved the answer, www.lapcopaintball.com will show you a double trigger guard made for the Classic 98, so all of the double triggered 98s can be tourney legal, and field legal (because a lot of fields also require guards, even if for just recball).

An upgrade that’s for ease of use, as well as cosmetics… is the macroline kit. These come in many colors. Plus, they can be cut to any length, unlike the guesstimations with steel braided hoses. And these have an easy quick-disconnect system that works with them. You can get these at pretty much any online store like www.xpaintball.com . These usually come in a pack with 3 hoses and a couple fittings.
As long as we’re on the track of cosmetics, you might want to consider grips. Grips, now a days, come in many colors. But, they are also made to give you a better, stronger, more comfortable grip on your gun. Green, clear, black, blue, faded colors… whatever you want, aftermarket companies probably have them. DYE stickeys are popular, and now the 32* gel rubber grips are on the market to compete. Find out more on the DYE stickeys at www.dyeprecision.com , and the 32* gel grips at www.countypaintball.com .

For those of you playing a lot of recball, you might want to better shoulder your gun, right? Enter the CAR-stock. This is a collapsible stock that fits on the endcap of the 98. {*meaning you can not have any other device there besides the stock endcap). It’s a little bulky, but very comfortable and extremely effective. Best selection possible as far as stocks go. Look up more at www.proteamproducts.com . Also, now www.countypaintball.com and www.tippmann.com (the proshop) has in the Air Tipps CAR stock, but these have a built in RVA. Same looks, adjusts the exact same way.

If you already have an RVA or a Full Boar… then you might not be able to use the CAR-stock. So, if you still want to shoulder your gun, try a T-stock built onto a Drop forward. This way, you get the balance of the Drop Forward, and the shouldering ability of a T-stock. Check out www.lapcopaintball.com .
Or if you don't want a drop forward, or your tank is too big to fit, there are now another choice. The stocks from Blackpoint Engineering, LLC ( www.bp-usa.com/paintball.html ). These are colapsable, as well. So if playing speedball, colapse it down and play. Then go off into the woods, fold it back out, and use it to shoulder the gun for better shots. The Combat version mounts where the endcap is, so it's like a CAR stock. The Voodoo stock mounts underneath where the stock ASA is. So use of this stock and an RVA (or RC/RVA) is possible.

But for some of us, we want more of a use than just stock. Well, then you are in luck. Because they have gas-through stocks out as well. Gas through stocks screw into your ASA, and most are adjustable. Smart parts ( www.smartparts.com ) makes an adjustable gas through stock. Along with many other companies. You can find out more stocks at web stores like www.paintballgear.com . Stocks are mainly for recball use. Because if you use these in speedball, they can tend to get in the way in those very tight positions.
*Note: To use a gas-through stock, you must be running your air source off a remote.

Speaking of recball, I know some of you use sights. I know I do at times. Well, you will want to get the Lapco Direct feed. This smooth metal feed will slightly move your hopper position over to the right, leaving you just enough room to use about any sight. I use an ADCO Vision2000… you don’t get much bigger than that for sights. And I can see everything now through the sight because of the direct feed. Check out www.lapcopaintball.com . The Direct Feed will not only help those with sights, but it will not break. It is solid metal, so it is built to last.
**Note: With this, you’ll need an aftermarket elbow, like the Vlbow. And the Direct Feed is not ported like once believed.

But if you don't use a sight, but want better feeding from an aftermarket elbow, then you are in luck. Proteam Products ( www.proteamproducts.com ) makes a powerfeed. Powerfeed, meaning it has a hole milled out of the elbow to allow blowback gas to vent, resulting in a better feed rate.
*Note: Again, with this you will need an elbow.

Again, I mention the high ROF. Well, there are actually a few kits that you can drop into your guns for this. There’s the RT kit, and E-bolt kit, found at such places like the Tippmann proshop at www.tippmann.com , www.countypaintball.com , etc. Let me start with the RT kit.

The RT is a relatively inexpensive way to get a high ROF. It will help push your finger forward with a piston behind the trigger, and with you still pulling with the same amount of force even after the piston push… you get a full-auto type of effect. It’s not actually full auto, but you get the same effect. It is adjusted with a side knob, and unless you have the 98custom, the Classics must be sent in to the proshop ( www.tippmann.com ) to be installed. However, if you use CO2 with this, and have a continuous high ROF, it will soon suddenly stop. You won’t be able to get more than 2-3 bursts. Because the CO2 will freeze it up, so you’ll have to let it get back to normal conditioning before you can get high constant ROF w/ CO2.
Now with the RT kit, you may decide later on using the Low Pressure (LP) Kit. Well, with use of both the RT and the LP Kit, you will have to call up Tippmann and ask for a larger RT hose. Because you will need a larger airflow as compared to stock use.

Then there is the E-bolt kit. This will convert your 98 to a ‘true’ Electro-pneumatic gun. The rear bolt assembly is removed, and a pneumatic ram takes its place. The e-bolt system is very similar (well, exact same) to the Bushmaster 2000 styled electro system. It is a single solonoid / single ram pneumatics.Now with the e-bolt, the chip will get you a mouse-click trigger pull and many modes of fire such as semi-auto, 3-shot burst, 6-shot burst, turbo, auto-response, and full-auto. Again, for more information on the e-bolt, or if you want to have the Tippmann Proshop install one, check it all out here at www.tippmann.com .
*Note, the E-bolt have low-pressure internals pressured through a LPR (Low-pressure regulator). It’s highly requested that N2/HPA be used with this kit instead of CO2. But, if you must, use an antisyphon OR remote system as to keep as much liquid CO2 out as possible.
**Reminder note, never use an antisiphon and remote together.

Speaking of Low pressure… how about the Low-pressure kit? This, I may add, is a great upgrade. This is for ANYBODY that plans on running their gun off of HPA. It will greatly increase efficiency, consistency, slight increase in accuracy, will help quiet the gun, reduce kickback to almost none, and provide the best possible solution for the Model 98 to actually have more advantages over CO2 besides less O-ring damage and no more CO2 clouds. Because originally, according to Ben himself, nitro had little advantage over CO2 on a stock 98. But with this upgrade, you’ll see a great advantage of nitro over CO2. This kit can be ordered from the Tippmann Proshop, www.tippmann.com .

If there is anything that I may have left out, or if you feel that I have made a mistake, or know of another link to a product (i.e. drop forward, harness, etc.) that you feel is worth a mention, please give me feedback. I won’t be finished with this until it is complete for every single person out there with a Model 98 and 98 Custom.
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Old 02-23-2002, 11:11 AM   #4
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Bump!
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Old 02-24-2002, 10:19 AM   #5
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Wow! That's a lot of good info. I didn't read it all, but just reading the first section tells me it's packed full of info.
I see you have it copyrighted, and was wondering if I could have permission to post thye final version on my site? PM me or email me when it's finish and with your answer.
Good Job,
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Old 03-13-2002, 08:07 AM   #6
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Haha, nah. I'm just a jackarseThat's not copyrighted. I only put it there for ****s and giggles.

Be my guest, use anything from there you want. That's what it's there for, information.
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Old 03-13-2002, 10:37 AM   #7
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Thank you Meph for contributing such helpful information to this forum! Let me know when you're ready to have it stickied...and I'll do just that.
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Old 03-21-2002, 03:58 PM   #8
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Ok, I'm at a loss of what else to add, so if you want go on ahead and sticky this.
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Old 05-14-2002, 03:33 PM   #9
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I was wonderng, you said some stuff about cosmetics as far as grips and triggers go. But 98 customs m98s only come in solid silver and black, so wouldnt cool colors just look stupid? If you know of a way to improve the look of a 98 custom, I would really appreiciate if you would tell me. One of the only bad things about 98 customs is they r really ugly.
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Old 05-14-2002, 03:40 PM   #10
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Um I didn't see anything about drop fowards but I just scanned it so otherwise this is great work!
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Old 05-14-2002, 04:06 PM   #11
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Drop Forwards are around the middle of the second page, just after the HPA rant.

For colors, you can paint a M98 or 98C any color(s) or pattern you want. There's many things you can do to make a tipp look better. New paintjob, matching upgrades (like a chrome drop forward, double trigger, regulator, et cetera on a black or chrome/silver body), custom milling, and so on.

To paint it yourself, that's another section I'll have to add. I want to eventually add troubleshooting and painting yourself onto this, as another page. For now, there's a sticky on the top of this forum about painting.

Otherwise, find a company out there that'll do it for you. Yes Sin does good work, but until they work out with shipping products through customs better, I shall not suggest them until then. I talked with the people from Ardvark (they work on the Matrix) and they go through UPS and yadda yadda. But they've had great customer relations as far as shipping goes. But for Sin, not only do I keep hearing of complaints, but I myself also have a strong complaint. It's not his work, he does wonderful work. But shipping and customs NEEDS to be addressed.
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Old 05-14-2002, 04:13 PM   #12
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Sorry my bad
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Old 05-14-2002, 05:24 PM   #13
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What is Sin's website? I saw an awsome flame job in the pics forum and now I must know!
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Old 05-18-2002, 03:48 AM   #14
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I can't rember right now as soon as I find it on my computer I will post it.
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Tippmann 98 Custom, Bigshot 14 inch, Proteam Car Stock, GTA Inline Expansion Chamber, Physcho Ballistics Dropfoward.

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Old 05-18-2002, 09:39 AM   #15
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Sins website : http://www.zygotemedia.com/sinhost/
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Old 05-18-2002, 09:39 AM   #16
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wow

i just read through the whole thing that is nice info. you should write a book!!
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fupinyokel:

Custom (warhammer???) cocker
black red ano job
sto pnues
ergo reg
ans quick pull bolt
Dye slider frame
Cp 12 inch
wgp cocking rod
sweet milling
pure energy 68 3k
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Old 05-23-2002, 05:17 PM   #17
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/me hands meph a cookie for being a good citizen
I have a suggestion though
you could make an index which when clicked on auto-drop to the specified location in the text. I don’t know if that's possible with the vB code though but it sure would help all those lazy people out there who don’t know of the search function in IE or Netscape hehe
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Old 05-29-2002, 10:28 AM   #18
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Meph, I dunno about the smaller barrel for speedball. more and more people are switchin to 16' so they can make sweet love to the sup' air, or so they just move them around w/out being exposed. all and all, nice job
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Old 06-21-2002, 01:43 PM   #19
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Question barrel.....

ok, i got a boo yah 14" 2 piece, for my 98c was that a good choice it was cheap and i heard pretty good, so i got it, i have never played speed ball it looks awesome though, i watch it at pigtv, anyway tell me about my barrel, too long? not good?
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Old 07-04-2002, 07:59 PM   #20
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wow meph that was excellent if only everyone was as helpful as you.
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