The Requested Trigger Job Info

[iconoclast]

Taking out the pins on my plastic mech frame didn't take too long, but it took some tinkering and modding (maybe an hour or so) to find the right size shim to make my trigger pull exactly like I wanted it to be. It also took some time finding the right tension trigger spring (I eventually just clipped off one coil on the stock spring). It paid off in the end though, since it gave me a pull which would trip the sear immediately with no slack. But then I got an e-frame.

[Evil_Empire]

Alright heres an update:

Its been about a day now, no success. I've made sure I've been hammering the side without the splines or grooves. I've hammered hard and the trigger frame is elevetated as well so theres room for the pins to come out. I've manage to make many dents/marks on the trigger pin and it still wont buldge.

Are there any tricks, or anything I can use to make this sucker move?

Thanks

[Alpine]

Set the frame on concrete when you hammer it, like on a garage floor ... this will work much better than trying to do it on a table or a counter or something.

[John 15:13]

Will this trigger job work with a 98C?

[graciolly]

Im starting back, after a long break from LC, and this site is full of great info. Where is everyone though?

[Lenny17]

This probably belongs more in OT than here, but that's not the point.

It's been really quiet around here lately. I'm sure part of it has to do with the economy stinking, and I think that a large group of the usuals are also dealing with college and such, which takes away from precious paintball time.

[di$TOrTed]

Originally Posted by Lenny17

This probably belongs more in OT than here, but that's not the point.

It's been really quiet around here lately. I'm sure part of it has to do with the economy stinking, and I think that a large group of the usuals are also dealing with college and such, which takes away from precious paintball time.

That and everyone thinking that PBNation is better than PBReview

[Ranana_kils]

Hi Corinna
I have missed you lots and am glad to see you
Hope all is going well

BH
Missy

ps thanks for the info

[Wolf1066]

Did a couple of trigger mods on my Spyder MR1 yesterday, took me only a couple of hours and a few simple tools.

I have no problem with the weight of the trigger pull or how far you have to pull it before it releases the bolt - it has absolutely no slack travel to take up, just a short amount of moderate resistance followed by a crisp break.

Then the trigger travels all the way back until the bottom of the two-finger trigger actually touches the grip frame, meaning you've moved your finger too far back and you have to release it a fair way before the trigger re-engages the sear for the next shot.

So the first thing I wanted to do was make a rear stop for the trigger so it travels back only just far enough to reliably release the bolt.

The other thing is: I don't like two-finger triggers.

It's a personal preference thing - I'm sure other people love them. I'm used to standard firearms and only using my index finger to fire.

The double trigger therefore means that my middle finger has nowhere to rest on the grip (as I am used to doing) so I've had to play with my middle finger extended forward, resting on the side of the trigger guard - effectively "giving the bird" to everyone to my right. Not particularly comfortable, either.

So the other thing I wanted to do was to cut the bottom section off the trigger so it was only long enough for my index finger, leaving room for my middle finger to curl around the grip as the gods and Samuel Colt intended.

I posted the details of how I did it - and what I used to do so - under the customisation section, if anyone's interested.

So now my trigger is - by my own standards - perfect. I can grip the stock in a natural position with my index finger curled around the trigger. A gentle squeeze is enough to fire the marker and there is very little rearward travel to achieve this.