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Old 12-13-2002, 02:37 PM   #21
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thanks a bunch

i have 3 questions

it says its equal to putting 10,000 balls thru your gun... so isnt it just wearing it out by polishing it?

so do i have to re-apply loctite when i remove the valve screws??

some people used toothpaste or a dremel... is sandpaper the best?
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Old 12-13-2002, 02:52 PM   #22
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You shouldnt worry about polishing it, just dont overdo it.

The valve screws dont need to be locktited, in fact, i wouldnt, it helps to be able to take out the valve assembly to throughly clean it.
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Old 12-14-2002, 06:33 PM   #23
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can i use car polisH??
for my barrel
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Old 12-14-2002, 07:23 PM   #24
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your stock barrel..?

i used steelwool in mine...

Last edited by -=ReD-hAzE=- : 12-14-2002 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 12-15-2002, 10:22 AM   #25
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steel wool to polish your stock barreL?

also is there a way to stop the bolt handle from jiggling around?? maybe wrap some tape around it?
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Last edited by E r y k : 12-15-2002 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 12-15-2002, 01:04 PM   #26
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yea... steel wool... i used a thin dowel... stuck that in a drill in place of the bit... and just put a little steel wool on the tip...enough to have a tight fit into the barrel...and drilled away...


try a few layers of teflon tape... anyother tape i can thing of would be too thick...

and cut a rubber band in half... so you only have about --------- that much... and put that in the sear spring... it will deaden the PING! sound in your tank when you fire...
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Old 12-15-2002, 11:00 PM   #27
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I was thinking for the magnetic mod, if the magnets were powerful enough, you could mount them where the spring would go on a 98c and have them repel each other instead. Anyhow, I ordered some magnets to play with, because I need to tinker.
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Old 12-16-2002, 06:46 AM   #28
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those would have to be pretty powerful magnets...
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Old 12-16-2002, 03:11 PM   #29
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get some industrial magnets the stuff they suck cars up with

after you go thru the barrel w/ steel wool, can u use car polish like finish 2001, or do you have to use mothersmag?
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Old 12-16-2002, 04:15 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by -=ReD-hAzE=-
yea... steel wool... i used a thin dowel... stuck that in a drill in place of the bit... and just put a little steel wool on the tip...enough to have a tight fit into the barrel...and drilled away...
red haze, thats screwed up. eryk, use alulminum polish, dosent have to be mothersmag, any aluminum polish should work. or better yet, get a better barrel.

also eryk, the magnets they use in those car lifter deals are electro-magnets, unless you have a constant power source and room for wire coils, count that out. in other words, count that out.
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Old 12-16-2002, 04:18 PM   #31
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The small earth magnets should work, since the point of using them is to make the trigger pull lighter.

Now I am embarking on making my gun low pressure... Without buying the low pressure kit.
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Old 12-16-2002, 07:14 PM   #32
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sorry to contradict some peeps but...

Quote:
Originally posted by Tippmann Tech (at tippmann.com)
polishing the internals will only really help you if there is a rough spot or there is debris in the gun. You can polish it, and it might give you a little better travel, but not as much as everybody claims. If you've already shot the gun 1,000 shots or more, you've pretty much ran any debris out, and rubbed off any rough spots off of the gun already. Oil is the gun's best friend, and in the rear bolt area (where it travels) a drop or two of oil will do just fine.

If you go in and polish the hell out of your gun, you'll probably make it worse (bringing it out of tolerance) So, there's kind of a fine line to how much to go. Here is a shortcut to a good description on how to do it.....and remember not to do it too much!

STRonGhttp://www.m98center.com/howto/1.html/STRonG
also, i have heard, that polishing the internals removes some of the pores in the aluminum, therefore, it does not retain oil as it used to...

anywho...
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Old 12-16-2002, 07:17 PM   #33
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meh, sorry to double post but a picture of your sling would be nice xavier678, i've always wanted to put one of those on.
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Old 12-16-2002, 08:51 PM   #34
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i think having the magnets repell is a good idea, and you could use almost any kind of magnets for that, although earth magnets will work the best. Heh and electro magnets would be an interesting idea, just a bit hard to accomplish in that small a space.
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Old 12-17-2002, 03:32 PM   #35
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xavier i already have a 14 in ceramic...

thats why im messing w/ my stock barrel
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Old 12-18-2002, 09:20 AM   #36
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Got the magnets in today. Epoxy is drying as I type . Now I finished the calculations for my rear hammer today. The stock hammer and insert should weigh about 140 grams. And the LP hammer and cocking knob should weigh about 110 +or- 7grams. For my first attempt, I modeled up a stock bolt, and took alot of mass off it, then I am going to make the normal aluminum insert out of Delrin. That should weigh 110 grams total. I want to be able to use the RVA thats why I am sticking to the stock spring size, however I will probably have to find a spring with alot less tension than the stock spring. I have a LP valve spring on order right now, and am going to "port" the valve soon. Lastly I am going to make a LP chamber out of an aluminum tube and weld caps on it, then tap it and put a fitting on it. If all this works I am going to be so pumped.
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Old 12-18-2002, 01:54 PM   #37
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Magnetic Trigger = Wow!

There is just enough tension to bring the trigger back to position for the sear to engage. I can almost have the recoil of the gun fire another shot. I can shoot very fast now without a dbl trigger.
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Old 01-19-2003, 07:38 PM   #38
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I thought I'd bump this back up since I've gotten more pms about mods I've done. I also have the info for the shot counter if you people are interested!
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Old 01-19-2003, 07:51 PM   #39
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well, post it.
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Old 01-19-2003, 08:04 PM   #40
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Yes, post it! Mods are always fun!
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