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Old 07-10-2003, 07:44 PM   #81
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yeah it has a lot of burst modes and full auto
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Old 07-11-2003, 07:20 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vaypourus

***(If you have Attention Deficit Disorder and can't read all that, a PF uses the leftover gas of the 1st shot to bounce the next shot into the breech faster than gravity can feed. *Halliday*)***
So does that mean that (assuming your hopper can keep up, and is not force feed) that P/F guns can feed 13+BPS with no force feed?(13 BPS being the fastest they think paintballs can drop into the breech under gravity)
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Old 07-11-2003, 07:23 PM   #83
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Old 07-12-2003, 08:12 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by PMI_Guy


So does that mean that (assuming your hopper can keep up, and is not force feed) that P/F guns can feed 13+BPS with no force feed?(13 BPS being the fastest they think paintballs can drop into the breech under gravity)
There isn't a hopper that isn't force fed that can feed at 13 BPS consistantly.
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Old 07-12-2003, 10:07 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lil_Wick
Q: does the e-mag have any other modes than semi-auto?
If you buy the jumper from AGD you can unlock burst mode. There is no full auto.
Quote:
Originally posted by PMI_Guy
So does that mean that (assuming your hopper can keep up, and is not force feed) that P/F guns can feed 13+BPS with no force feed?(13 BPS being the fastest they think paintballs can drop into the breech under gravity)
For short bursts perhaps...but not much faster.
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Old 07-22-2003, 08:09 PM   #86
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hey im going to go mag soon.... and my question is.

Is there any real difference between an
X-valve
or an
RT-valve

(besdides the lvl 10 in x-valves)




and... is dropping a rt or x valve in a mini/micromag easy.... and will it now equal a retro mag.
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Old 07-23-2003, 06:16 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally posted by JTramoDude
hey im going to go mag soon.... and my question is.

Is there any real difference between an
X-valve
or an
RT-valve

(besdides the lvl 10 in x-valves)

and... is dropping a rt or x valve in a mini/micromag easy.... and will it now equal a retro mag.
I think this is posted earlier on in the FAQ. I think you are speaking of the Retro Valve, and not the RT? (the RT valves were available only on the old school RTs). If not, I can explain that was well.

There are a few small differences between the X-valve and the ReTro valve. The X-valve is constructed of all aluminum, while the ReTro valve is about 2/3 stainless steel. The Retro Valves are no longer made, but they were $300 new, and featured "ReTro Valve" laser engraved on the back half of the regulator. The X-valves are more expensive becuase of the LX, and they have the X-valve logo engraved on the back.

Performance wise they are identical, as they are both the same exact design (the parts are completely interchangable).
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:32 AM   #88
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thanks aalot... i looked but didnt find anything, i may be wrong tho.
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Smartparts with no space in-between is copyrighted. Reported.
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Old 08-25-2003, 07:36 PM   #89
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This come from a conversation on AIM between me and Bourne. I left the questions he asked in order...so it gets interrupted a few times...

Q: how do you adjust the trigger on an E-mag?

A: A complicated question indeed. There are 3 things to adjust. Trigger return magnets, hall sensor magnets and the trigger stop. First off, the easiest to adjust, the hall sensor. There's a screw on the front of the trigger. Use an allen wrench(I forget what size)To adjust that. Adjusting this determines at what point the hall sensor is activated.

Q: wait, what is the hall sensor?

A: Instead of a micro switch, the E-mag uses a hall sensor. It's a magnetic switch. You see the little plate behind the trigger? It's about the same level as the groove in the middle of the trigger. That's the sensor. There's a magnet in the trigger that activates it. The screw in the trigger adjusts the position of the magnet, thus adjusting when in the trigger pull the gun fires.

Q: Back to adjusting the trigger...

A: Ok, to adjust the magnets and the trigger stop you must remove the frame. Don't try and pull the sear out or you can damage the solenoid. Take the sear pin out but leave the sear in. You'll notice, right above the trigger the magnets. Set the selector switch to M and pull and hold the trigger. Take an allen wrench and touch it to the magnets. Now pull it up and the magnet's should hold onto the allen wrench. Now, fewer magnets-lighter trigger. More magnets=heavier trigger. If you want uber light...like you can blow on it and it'll fire put a teflon on/off o-ring or an lx powertube o-ring should fit to...and put one magnet. Now that'll be a light trigger. You don't like it? takes a few seconds to fix. You can pull the trigger to try it out without putting the frame on. The trigger pull is the same no matter where the frame is.

Last part, the trigger stop. Set the selector switch to "E." Now, in the switch, the part that's inside the frame there's a screw. An allen wrench(again, I forget the size) Will adjust this screw. This is what controls the amount of travel the trigger has. You can adjust it to the point where the trigger won't move. It's best to leave it at least half a millimeter or so to make sure the hall sensor detects each pull correctly.

Q: now... what order would you do this all in?

A: Personally, I'd do the trigger stop first. I'd set it about where I wanted it. Then I'd take the sensor adjusting screw most of the way out, turn the gun on and pull the trigger. The tighten it down while holding down the trigger until the gun fires, then give it just under another 1/8 turn or so. Then make sure it detects each pull right, then set the weigh how I want.
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Last edited by Shadow221 : 08-25-2003 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 10-16-2003, 08:39 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vaypourus
Q: What is this Sydarm I keep hearing about?

A: The Sydarm is a specially modified automag made specially for Police/military/special forces training. It featured a classic valve with an aluminum regulator back half, a 12 gram adapter, a horizontal spring clip, a short barrel, and a single trigger. These were not sold to the public, but every once in a while you can see them on ebay or in the trading forums. Used they usually sell for about $500.
Tom Kaye also used 2 of these when he stormed the beaches of Normandy at D-day 2003...there he played the allied General...
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Old 10-25-2003, 10:28 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by fred1
how do u cock a mag?

is it just air it up and go?

.:FRED:.
air it up and let it fly
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Smartparts with no space in-between is copyrighted. Reported.
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:51 PM   #92
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Why?

Why is the RT on Mags Tourny legal, but the RT on tippy's isnt? This may be answered elsewhere, but I cant find it... can anyone help?
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Old 10-27-2003, 01:31 PM   #93
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Re: Why?

Quote:
Originally posted by Low
Why is the RT on Mags Tourny legal, but the RT on tippy's isnt? This may be answered elsewhere, but I cant find it... can anyone help?
cause with a rt on a tippmann you can just hold down the trigger (right?)

and on a mag it just makes the trigger more responsive, snappier, better... its still 1 shot per trigger pull... not as much as the tippmann
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Smartparts with no space in-between is copyrighted. Reported.
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:31 PM   #94
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Re: Re: Why?

Quote:
Originally posted by JTramoDude


cause with a rt on a tippmann you can just hold down the trigger (right?)

and on a mag it just makes the trigger more responsive, snappier, better... its still 1 shot per trigger pull... not as much as the tippmann
IT's a bit more involved than that.

Runaway mode. The tippman is ALWAYS in runaway. This is when you can hold constant pressure on the trigger and it continues to fire in "full-auto," so to speak. RT mags, however, are not in runaway when operating under 800 psi. The reactive trigger is still there, and it still increases your rate of fire, but it doesn't runaway.

Also, with the tippman, at very high rates of fire, the bolt ceases to lock onto the sear and instead just moves constantly. Witht the mag, even as fast as 30+ bps, the bolt stops and locks onto the sear after each cycle.
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Old 11-12-2003, 09:02 AM   #95
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i gassed up my mag with retro valve and it will shoot once and then it wont. there is still pressure on the trigger it just wont shoot when i pull the trigger. i oiled the gun and all. the on/off pin is .750.
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:59 AM   #96
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Turn up the velocity.
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:40 AM   #97
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I DID THAT and still no luck
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Old 11-12-2003, 01:34 PM   #98
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Is you tank full?

If it's adjustable, is it outputing at least 700psi?

If not adjustable, is it a high pressure or low pressure output?

How much did you turn up the velocity? Maybe you didn't set it high enough...

If you have LX, try a shorter bolt spring.
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Old 11-12-2003, 01:39 PM   #99
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okay it a crossfire high out put tank. i have levle 10 but not installed. i think i fixed the problem. thehole on/off assembly was brand new. i think the one/off was sticking. i oiled the o-ring and pin good and then it was shooting good. i dont know if new on/offs need to be broken in. but i think the problem is fixed.

i got a nother problem. i got a retro valve and when i was trying to shoot faster i would shoot quiter and i got shoot down. i was short stroking. i hole valve is clean. any ideas
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Old 11-23-2003, 12:08 PM   #100
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i just recharged my battery when i couldve sworn it was dead

i put it on the charger, and the light was just green... that means its already charged. i knew it wasnt charged, so i left it there for awhile and let it "charge". i took it out, and put it on my emag, the emag went through its LED screen nicely, but when i pulled the trigger nothing happened. i was just testing to see if the emag was working, cus i just finished a trade for it.

do i need air to test to see if the electronics are working properly? whats up w/ the battery already showing up green? why doesnt it do a click click thing when i pull the trigger to test the electronics?
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