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Old 04-12-2004, 08:00 PM   #121
Shadow221
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shirtless FOX
Please don't shoot this idea down too quickly, b/c I checked the other stickies and the search tool.

Now, I am well aware this idea will void any airgun/centerflag warranties, but I was wondering if anyone knew, or had a link, to how to remove the 13 BPS cap off of both a hyperframe board and airgun electric boards.

I don't believe posting this is against any forum rules, but I repair guns locally and I know people with eggys and halos that cant stand the BPS cap on electric mags.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Newer hyperframe boards are capped at 20 bps. Older frames can be upgraded by centerflag(I don't know about the cost, though)

Old 1.37 E-mag boards are capped at 16 bps. They can be sent in to AGD and upgraded to 3.2 for free, and will then be capped at 20 bps.
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:59 AM   #122
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Really? Well thanks a lot man it's really good news for me.

Anyway, I check on www.automags.org forums for hyperframe threads and found that you can trade up to the 20 BPS board for anywhere from $50-65 depending on the condition of your board.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:55 AM   #123
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Q. Will a T board help an automag RT? (as in shooting faster)
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Old 05-11-2004, 03:03 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally posted by paintman1234
Q. Will a T board help an automag RT? (as in shooting faster)
A: I doubt it, but I don't know what a "T board" is. A RT is mechanical and it sounds like a board is electro.
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Old 05-14-2004, 07:46 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally posted by Halliday


A: I doubt it, but I don't know what a "T board" is. A RT is mechanical and it sounds like a board is electro.
Right you are; a T-board is an aftermarket Spyder board, which, as you said, will do absolutely nothing for a mechanical marker.

EDIT: Well, now that we know that it is possible to graft an electric Spyder frame onto a Mag, then, ironically, a T-board would help an RT as fr as speed.
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Last edited by sonnemann : 06-06-2004 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 05-22-2004, 08:35 AM   #126
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Q: Can someone please explain in depth what short-stroking is and why it happens?

A: The Mag trigger assembly (sear) works like a see-saw. It has a certain range of motion it must complete to work properly. Short-stroking happens when the operator does not allow the full (front and back) motion of the trigger to be completed. If the trigger pull is too short several things may occur. A ball may not feed, only partially feed (chop) or the bolt could become stuck forward. It can also cause shootdown.

The Mag trigger must be allowed to travel completely forward after each shot.

Last edited by Halliday : 05-22-2004 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 06-02-2004, 05:58 PM   #127
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Q: If you use a regular co2 tank with a remote, does it matter wether it is vertical or horizontal on the hardness?

A: Keeping the tank vertical would help.

-------------------------------------

Q: Also how do you know if you have a a/s or normal tank?

A: You can take a valve of and check Or, with a full tank and the valve open, roll it back and forth on the ground. The cloud of co2 will stop and start if there is a anti-siphon tube.

---------------------------------------

Q: Would a 6 stage x-chamber be better than a 4 on a mag.

A: Techincally 6 is better, but take what the manufacturer says with a grain of salt. One company's 4 chambers may be bigger than another's 6.

-------------------------------------------

Q: If i wanted to use an x-chammber...would the accuracy, consitancy or anything get better? and also what combination of a/s, remote, and positioning would be best?

A: Get better compared to what? A no x-chamber co2 powered Mag? Yes, less liquid in the valve makes the Mag work better. Specific parts? It all depends on your setup.


All this really belongs in the Mag Co2 FAQ, but I'll keep it here for a while.

Last edited by Halliday : 06-02-2004 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:38 AM   #128
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A: The fastest, cheapest way is to just use it. Learing the trigger is a simple way to shoot fast. Buy a case of paint and go play! [/b]
Q: Is that a typo, or is learing the trigger a trick?

A: No trick, but it does take practice. The trigger needs to swing all the way or you short-stroke it.

Last edited by Halliday : 06-07-2004 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:30 PM   #129
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Q: Looking at Automags.org, for their ULE Custom, what is the ULE Trigger Pull kit installed?(+$19) as opposed to the on/off assy Rt/Rt-Pro .750 pin.

Brand new to mags, but thinking of buying one, but wanna make sure I know completely what I'm getting into.

A: The ULT kit

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...8&categoryID=9



"This is the hot new mod from deep in the bowels of the AGD Tech Lab. Swap your old on/off assembly for this one and instantly take away 2 lbs from your trigger pull. The new pull is 15 oz. and is the lightest pull of any mechanical marker with this stroke distance. Best part is we measure this from the top trigger loop so the bottom is even lighter!!

So what problems are there?

A couple things to watch out for. This product should not be used in Emags or Xmags because it reduces the rate of fire (the lighter pull doesn't pull the solenoid out as fast). Aside from that, the ULE Trigger only gives optimum performance on guns with X-Valves. It will go into but not work well in a Classic or Minimag valve. The reactivity has been turned down in this upgrade so it's harder to bounce but EASIER to short stroke. You need good finger control to get the most out of this upgrade."

In simple terms the ULT is a modified on/off.
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Last edited by Halliday : 06-20-2004 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 07-11-2004, 06:37 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vectrexx
On the Pro Team Emag What Does the hybrid Mode Do????
It is the same as the E and X-Mag's hybrid. Electro trigger pull with reactive return.
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Old 07-13-2004, 04:25 PM   #131
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I disassembled my mag and after reassembling it, my barrel was unable to lock into place. Did I forget a piece or am I missing something?

My last question is, which way does the on/off pin go in and can putting it on the wrong way cause a leak down the barrel?

EDIT: Might have found answer to my questions but go ahead and answer them plz just incase I may be wrong.
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Last edited by reign52 : 07-13-2004 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:35 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally posted by reign52
I disassembled my mag and after reassembling it, my barrel was unable to lock into place. Did I forget a piece or am I missing something?

My last question is, which way does the on/off pin go in and can putting it on the wrong way cause a leak down the barrel?

EDIT: Might have found answer to my questions but go ahead and answer them plz just incase I may be wrong.
Barrel: It needs the twist-lock pin in the rail. Did you take it out or loosen the nut so it no longer has any grip?

Pin: The notched end goes in at the bottom, just like it's laser engraved on the valve.
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:55 PM   #133
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Hall, I put the pin upside down, would that cause a leak down the barrel?
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Old 07-14-2004, 02:18 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally posted by reign52
I disassembled my mag and after reassembling it, my barrel was unable to lock into place. Did I forget a piece or am I missing something
You know the screw that screws in a little in front of the trigger that holds the trigger frame, the main body and the rail part together? Well for some reason AGD didn't think anybody would muscle that thing on, so If you screw it in to tight, the barrel will be nearly impossible to twist on. Look on your barrel and you can see two scratches parallel to the twist canals manufactored on there and you'll see. To use my friends boomstick I have to unscrew it a little bit, then twist it on, then screw it back on. Try and then you'll know. You can always just sand it down and not have the problem at all.
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Old 07-14-2004, 06:12 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally posted by reign52
Hall, I put the pin upside down, would that cause a leak down the barrel?
I don't think it would even cause a leak at all. I think it's notched just to make it easier to get out by hand.
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Old 10-24-2004, 04:14 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally posted by SIGSays
one of my favorites.........

intelliframe blade trigger
Q: how much does it cost its what ive been looking for since my spyder addicted me to double triggers ive been looking for one for a mag

A: Most everything Mag can be bought here..........

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm
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Old 08-12-2005, 05:48 PM   #137
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Q: Would running my 900 psi through my A.I.R. valve make it more reactive?

A: No. You need a different valve than a Classic valve for reactivity.
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:57 AM   #138
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Q: I'm looking into a RT ULE custom, and I'm wondering if there is major perks about using a twist lock barrel over a standard ULE barrel. I know that the barrels are specific to either the ULE or steel main bodies, I just don't know what the major difference is in performance or use in general.
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:05 PM   #139
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ule bodies use cocker threads. much easier to find barrels and kits.
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Old 03-28-2007, 03:58 PM   #140
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I just recently bought an Rt with the RT pro valve with it. Now, I know that AGD says that older RT's cant take X-vales, but what about RT pro's? And if thats the case, can i put a ULE body on my Rt? The box says RT, but the valve says RT pro, so i assume its not the same, and if the body can take the RT pro valve then it can take an X-valve. Am i correct?
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