Angel Bolt Test Today
Ok, this was a quick preliminary test I was able to make today. I hope this cut & paste comes out ok. I shot 10 shots of XS Sports #1 balls, which though the last time I used a hopper of them they shot great, this time they were not as good. But I used the same balls from the same batch in every shot. I did a barrel test with a number of the balls, and not one fell right through, they fit fine, and was able to blow them out of the barrel. Same with the .689 Check-It Dragon 2 piece barrel I used for the accuracy test after the FPS test.
The temp was around 65, I used the stock Infinity 2001 LCD barrel (as most have that as opposed to various other brands) with my MacDev Gladiator reg adjusted to get the stock bolt to as near a constant 285 (field limit) as possible.
WDP - stock Angel Venturi
GTC - GT Cyclone
ST - Shocktech
LT - AKA Lightning
BB - Bonebrake
CO - Cobra
DZV - DeZign Venturi
DZOF - DeZign Open Face
WDP GTC ST LT BB CO DZV DZOF
282 279 286 292 288 294 293 295
As you can see, under sort by shots (recorded as I took each shot), both DeZign bolts right off the bat were very consistent. And under sort by consistency, both DeZign and the Cobra bolts had the closest FPS. As for individual FPS gains, the Cobra was the highest, though not by much, with DeZign, Bonebrake, and the Lighting being very close to it. Nowhere near the exaggerated claims I have seen in other post of over 25 FPS gains over the stock bolt! But still some gain. But the averages make the DeZign Open Face the BEST of the crowd.
Now, as it was getting late (and dark), I had two tourney players who use modified Angels as their normal guns test out the bolts in a "BLIND" taste (accuracy) test. In other words, I did not tell them what bolts I put in the gun, in no particular order, and handed it over to them to test out at the shooting range. They shot at targets in different ranges. We used the Check-It 14" Dragon 2 piece barrel, as it was tried and agreed upon (using the stock bolt) that it was a much better barrel than the stock Infinity. This was not done on a bench, nor was I able to measure groupings. But it was used in sort of a real world "seat of the pants" target shooting - so might apply better than just a sterile setup. The order was kinda surprising of choice - from best to worse:
DeZign Open Face
GT Cyclone (was commented that it really was not to bad at all!)
Bonebrake (was commented that it seemed to curve the ball DOWN!!)
Shocktech (surprising it was LAST!)
Now, some comments on the bolts in relation to fit & finish, as well as wear after use:
Both DeZign and Bonebrake bolts are made of ERTAlyte. Both DeZign bolts showed NO wear at all! Not even where it went up against the ball detent. But Dez has machined in a nice sloped edge on his bolt that he said was to help the passing over the detent as smooth as possible, and I think it worked. The Bonebrake showed just a few tiny marks on its side. The Cobra showed a few scratches as well, but not bad. The GT, Shocktech, and stock bolt showed a bit more wear scratches, but still acceptable. But the Lightning seems to have had its face end pretty scrubbed - might not be too good there, though it does pass the slide tapping in the bore test with no friction to be felt.
As for the feed holes, Cobra has the closest to a circle and smallest sized, GT a bit larger, Shocktech still a circle but larger yet. Lightning comes next with a slight oblong (cause of its famous "ramp" to curve the air), with the Bonebrake elongated a bit more, and the DeZign bolts the longest oblong hole.
As for the face holes, Cobra is the smallest, then GT Cyclone a bit more (but reason is what is inside, more later). The Lightning opens it up quite a bit but with a indent for the ball to lay against, as does the next larger DeZign Open Face. But the Bonebrake has the largest opening. The Shocktech has 3 Venturi holes, and the DeZign Venturi has 10 small outer ring holes and a bit larger middle hole.
The interior of some of these bolts are quite interesting. The Lightning has the cut ramp in it, which many know is its best LP feature in the AutoCocker bolt design. The Shocktech has a metal insert that has a bit of a ramp, but as its recessed towards the back a bit, doubt it does anything. The GT Cyclone is a weird one. It has a large piece of metal inside it that blocks a lot of the inlet hole, and forces the air around it, and then through the twisted venturi path that is at the end of this piece of metal. Supposedly this gives a "cyclone" effect to the air behind the ball. The 2 DeZign bolts have a ramped black plastic (might be ERTAlyte) ramp in them, similar to the Shocktech (also used to hold the ADJUSTABLE pin - yes, you CAN adjust it for the perfect hammer fit!), but much better as its placed where it can effect the air, but also angled much better to really direct the flow of air too. The Bonebrake and Cobra just have a 90 degree cut in them.
Lastly, the actual quality of the machining of the product. The outside of the Lightning seems well made (but- remember the bad amount of wear on it!), but the inside of it seems like it was very poorly cut! Lots of rough surface! The Shocktech, as usual, has a lots of flash inside it where the venturi holes were cut. This could cause some turbulence perhaps? But not quality workmanship if you ask me! The Cobra, Bonebrake, GT Cyclone, and both DeZign bolts all had excellent workmanship on them! Very well made. But the star once again seems to go to the DeZign bolts for those extra "little" touches put into them. The chamfered edges (for the detent), the adjustable pin, the machining, and even a slight "cut" between the lip and just before the feed hole. Not to slight the Bonebrake or Cobra, but the DeZign bolts just show a bit "more".
Oh, I did try the WDP "Custom" bolt for a day - and returned it the next. It was WORSE than the stock bolt! And at NPS I had the guy there try the KAPP Diamond bolt - the darn pin BROKE OFF inside his gun! If you take a look at these, there are already stress cracks where the pin is in the body. These are not Delrin or ERTAlyte bolts, but some sort of polymer.
So, in conclusion, it seems that the DeZign bolts, though not as LP as the Cobra, was more consistent with its FPS per shot, and in the "blind" taste test, was the most liked. The Open Face the top, with his Venturi a close second.
This is the only power supply we reccomend. It is a regulated, filtered and fused, power supply. If it has not been tampered with, it will not put more than 13.8v dc to the plug.
13.8v is a peak voltage with nothing hooked up. As you add a work load, the voltage will drop to about 12.8v - 13.2v as a working voltage. It will work with all angel car chargers from the LED to the A4.
How to set up your LPR (includes Speed/A4)
How to Correctly Set your LPR Pressure
Updated on July 8th 2003 to include info for the SPEED/A4
You will need to following items:
1. Angel LPR gauge
2. LPR piston removal tool (Gold thing with a screw in the end)
3. 4mm Allen Wrench
4. Adjustable AIR system
6. Grease or Oil
7. Safety Glasses (yes...I use them)
a. Make sure there is no paint in your gun.
b. Remove the Air from your gun. Turn your gun on and shoot the remaining air from the gun.
c. Remove the endplug from the right side of the gun (LEFT side for the SPEED/A4). This is the opposite side the ball detent is on.
d. install the LPR gauge.
e. turn minireg velocity adjusting screw until it is flush with the body. If you are using a gas-thru you can skip this step. We are trying to make sure the air from your tank is going directly into the gun without being affected by your in-line regulator.
f. using your adjustable tank send 500 PSI directly into the minireg (350 for the SPEED/A4) and see where your pressure is at. We are trying to get to 85-90 psi on an LCD, 100 psi on an IR3 and 82 on a SPEED/A4.
If the pressure is to high or to low you will need to adjust it using the shims. These are installed by removing the LPR piston (after de-gassing the gun) and adding or removing shims behind the washer springs. Adding springs increases the LPR pressure.
If you have to add an unusual amount of shims (over 10) to get your pressure up then it is a good idea to replace your LPR. It is also a good idea to clean and regrease the piston orings since everything is already taken apart.
TIP: When checking your LPR pressure make sure that the gauge returns FAST and stops. If it creeps you might need to replace the orings in the LPR or replace the entire LPR assembly
ok....after testing MANY configurations this i what we found to work best at our Dalton Research Center (some call it the paintball store)
2 down 2 up 2 down 2 up
I emailed Frazer about this asking what the best arrangement would be and he sent me back.........
Big use to those that have high output tanks and speeds, this basically will help you guys out if you are experiencing any problems with that setup.
2 down 2 up 2 down 2 up....LOL Funny huh
here is the email
Change the spring stack in the mini reg so the springs go 2 down 2 up 2 down 2 up etc
The scope of its adjustment will not have changed, but the band that it operates in will have risen, so it should be better able to regulate down from 1000+ psi
All the best,
sorry about the delay but we had to do the testing before we would say anything
15 Second Epoxy
1/8 Inch Rare Earth Magnets
Hey, if anyone has not heard of the magnetic trigger modification for Angel LCDs and IR3's yet, here's the deal. I went down to radioshack and picked up 1/8" RARE EARTH MAGNETS (Make sure you get those, they are much stronger than regualr magnets) and some quick dry (15 second) epoxy. I went with four rare earth magnets, so my total cost for my entire shopping was 7 dollars, they come in packs of two.
Note: Check to make sure your trigger set screws are indeed magnetic, before you do this.
I went home, took off the grip frame to my Angel, removed the trigger from the frame, took out the board, grips, and unplugged the wires. Take a bit of the epoxy and use the brush tip to apply the epoxy inside of the grip frame, where the foreward limit screw touches. Take an allen wrench and put the magnet on the allen wrench and place it in the epoxy, *NOTE: The leaf switch of the microswitch will most likely be attracted to the magnet as you lower it into the epoxy, I used a Dental Pick to hold it back.and hold it there for about 15 seconds. Maybe a bit more so it dries well. Don't get hasty on this, because if you try and pull the allen wrench away from the magnet too soon, you'll need to epoxy it again.
Okay, so you have it in there nice, so it's time to reassemble everything. You will have to reset the forward limit screw to compensate for the magnet beign where it is, you'll most likely need to back out the screw. Don't forget to take out the spring, you won't be needing that anymore. Put the trigger pivot pin back in, and you'll be set to go.
You'll have a very snappy pull on the return now, thanks to the magnet being attracted to the forward setscrew making it easier to walk the trigger.
NOTE: I do not claim any sort of ownership or creation of this mod. I read about it on PBNation and decided to do it for myself. The techniques that I used for installation however, are how I did the modifcation, so perhaps I could claim copyright on the directions. Or some legalspeak whoo haah.
the principles behind the modification again, are not my own.
I do not know who the original inventor is of this mod, and I don't really care either. I'm just posting this to all PBR users, as a source of information.
Okay guys. I'm back. It was a great time at the tech class Ken Crane did. Lots of laughs, and a few jokes back and forth between Ken and I about some certain product companies, and how come some monkeys from each camp like to fling poo at each other.
Anyway, here are my notes from the class.
NO OIL THROUGH THE MINI REG!!!!
Ken reccomends putting oil in the flashtank above the mini reg, instead of running it through the ASA. Instead of running oil through the mini reg, take it out and grease it.
If your LPR is still too high, after you took out all the shims, just replace the LPR. It's not worth trying to rebuild it when it's a 30 dollar part.
Angel hammers are designed to be between 49-19 grams in weight, depending on the generation. Don't bother with anything above or below.
"bang valve" = exhaust valve in brit speak
Snap ring on older Angels "grab" the ram shaft and hold it tight, to allow it to pressurize fully, otherwise you get huge drop off at high velocity. With the new rams, the o-ring is on the back of the hammer, and does the same thing.
Special note, with the newer LP angels, you need to have the gun gassed up to properly set the breech. Otherwise you won't get the true setting, because the o-ring on the back of the hammer keeps the hammer from fully retracting when degassed.
Ken has set his watch and warrant on WDP's new release schedule. "From now till forever" WDP will release a gun every six months. Get over it. Technology is advancing in leaps and bounds, like the computer industry years ago, when they went from huge *** towers overnight, to super small and light laptops, and Intel's rapid release of new chipsets, along with Nvidia.
Ok, about the Angel eyes.
Here is the breakdown of what happens in the programming.
The eyes wait for a ball to drop, As the gun is firing the eyes are monitoring the bolt movement, and calculating the "window of oppurtunity", basically crunching numbers in order to maximize how fast the gun can shoot without chopping paint. Pretty neat.
Oh, and that funny sound you might hear when you gas up a LP Angel? It might sound like the gun actually shoots. It's not, it's just the o-ring behind the hammer seating into the ram housing.
Brass rams were the best thing for the Angel. If the ram was not adjusted right, the brass would dent, instead of cracking the bolt pin. That's why people would see brass shavings in their lower tube. They didn't have the ram set far in enough, so the hammer would start moving forward, slam into the bolt pin, then start carrying it towards the valve. Today, with the SS hammers (which WDP gave up on trying to tell people different and just put them in) WDP has found that now valve bodies will get mashed to bits along with bolt pins.
THAT IS WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO SET YOUR BREECH UP TO CLICK!!!!! Make sure that you adjust it by having the gun gassed up, and continue turning the ram inwards, until the bolt pin is clicking AGAINST THE FAR WALL OF THE HAMMER! NOT THE FRONT WALL! You'll end up F'ing the gun up.
Here's what I was trying to get across if you didn't understand.
note where the bolt pin is touching, and which one is right and which is wrong.
The small love juice tubes that are in the package, "should last almost two years"
Also, as of last month, WDP is not making anymore G7's. All production is set on G7 Flys. Which by the way, have the sweetest trigger to date. It's a "breakaway" system. there's a magnet that holds the trigger forward, and as you pull the trigger it "breaks away" from the magnet, making a super snappy feel, and a crisp return. No more "rubbery" feel where the trigger bounces between two magnetic fields.
About the new Angel barrel threading
WDP HAD to change barrel threads. The G7 FLY is just the beginning of what is coming down the road from WDP. They're got big plans, and they realize that they can't keep going on the older, coarse threads. Ken said something to the effect of this.
"It's not about what is going out now (G7 FLY), it's what's down the road. They had to change the threading. No, we will never use cocker threads, no, we will never use shocker threads, and oh by the way, cocker threads would never have worked with what we're planning on doing anyway."
Angel LED: NO LCD SCREEN, Production ended in 2000 with the release of the LCD Angel. This version is technically named the Angel but is often called the LED or Angel LED because of the LED light on the back. The first Angel was called the V6.
Features: .45 Grip, Pots inside grip are used to adjust ROF and Dwell with a small screw driver. Stock was a semi only marker. Could be upgraded to semi, 3-shot, 8-shot zip and full auto by changing the board. Angel LEDs came in both single and double trigger models with single trigger models being the most common. Vertical ASA and mini regulator threads on some early LEDs are not the industry standard ASA found on current markers. Most LEDs came from the factory with little milling. S.E. models came with milling similar to that found on Angel LCDs. Aftermarket milled versions include the Alien Abduction Angel, Adrenalin Angel and Warped Sports Dark Angel.
Angel LCD: LCD Screen (duh), Produced 2000-2002 (limited numbers of a special edition were produced for 2003, which had IR3 internals, otherwise, basically the same) Features: LCD Screen with menus that control ROF, Dwell, Timer, and shot counter data. Had multiple modes of fire.Although the LCD is mechanically similar to the LED some key improvements have been made in it's design. They are as follows:
1.) HP air from the min regulator is NOT channeled through an exposed aluminum tube between the vertical ASA and 45* frame as seen in the Angel LED. WDP utilized a space between the two lower tubes to channel HP air from the ASA to the valve eliminating the ASA to 45* HP air tube in the LED design. As a result of the changes, the LED and LCD bodies and 45* frames are NOT compatible.
2.) WDP made the body housing around the solenoid on the Angel LCD more compact in terms of length and width. As a result the Roto-Breach of the LCD is longer than the LED's. Due to the lengthening of the Roto-Breach and thinning of the body around the solenoid, the LCD and LED do not share bolts or back plates.
The LCD Angel was the model that was released in 2000 and 2001, in 2002 only IR3s were released, no actual 2002 milling exists for the LCD, however there are 3 separate milling styles that were released in late 2000 all the way to late 2001. The Butter Knife, Apollo, and another version of butter knife were made.
2000 was the lines milling and then sometime in September or so they released the first version of the butter knife. A few months later in April or so (2001) they released the Apollo milling, about the same time as chain frames and LPR tool Volumizers were released. A third butter knife version was released around World Cup of that year.
Angel IR3: LCD Screen and Infra-red sensor/reciever Produced 2002-present Features: Updated internals, meaning better effeciency over previous models. An obvious difference is in the shape of the gripframe itself. It's a 90* angle, so your hand is more in line with the trigger, as opposed to an angle with traditional .45 frames. IR interface allows transmission and recieving of data, including ROF, Dwell, and Timer settings. Also, a COPS (Crystal Operated Paint Sensor) has been added, with menus to adjust sensitivity.
LOW PRESSURE PLATFORM
Angel Speed Features:The first major design change to the Angel, with changes in the Hammer, LPR, and Ram design, allowing the Speed to be easier to service. You may also note that it's the first Angel without a snap ring in the ram. Designed to operate at significantly lower operating pressures than previous Angels (180-350 PSI Operating Pressure, and an LPR pressure about 33% lower than previous Angels [About 65-70PSI according to my math]). Includes a Space frame, and a LED style display, instead of a LCD screen. Has two ball detents, and a COPS-like sensor (Sensi) that has no adjustability unlike the IR3 COPS system.
WDP has released A4 boards that can be purchased and installed in Angel Speeds, basically turning the Speed into an Angel 4.
Angel 4 Features: A low pressure Angel that is similar to the Angel Speed, with a volumizer kit. Operating pressure around 100-200PSI has been achieved using volumizer kits included. Includes an updated SENSI system. The Angel 4 is a combinaton of the best features from the IR3 and Speed. The Angel 4 also was the smallest Angel to be released. From my personal experience, it seems like the gun has lost about 1/3 of the size compared to older models.
Angel Force 4
Similar to the Angel 4 with the exception of a different color scheme, and a lifetime warranty from Force. Basically an A4 tuned by master techs that work at major tournaments.
Angel 4 FLY
Lighter body, different milling pattern, and the addition of AngelEyes. The AngelEyes is a break-beam operated Anti-chop system, replacing COPS and SENSI pressure-operated system
The 05 Speed took it's engine from the Angel 4 FLY, with the addition of many new important features. The most important was the introduction of the new mini regulator design. It is encased within a foregrip, with the entire system being a cartridge that fits inside the tube. The new design was compliant with HP preset tanks, allowing many people to switch from cheaper guns to an Angel seamlessly. A very important update was the addition of a mangetic roller trigger. 45 Frames were also reintroduced, with 05 Speeds being the first WDP Factory gun equippped with a 45 Frame since the LCD Angel.
The G7 is the first Angel to undergo a drastic change in the rotabreech. In place of the pin and knob, a lever has been created that is used to open the breech. In addition, the new rotabreech design enables the bolt and ram to be moved forward once the breech lock has been secured. This will assist in preventing rollback issues that have been caused by users who improperly adjust their ram in the older generations.
The G7 Fly took the standard G7 Platform, and reduced the size even more, with an entirely new barrel thread pattern. The new threads allow milling to be extended into the breech, past the lower tubes. In addition, a new "Breakaway" trigger has been introduced, which is hailed as the fastest trigger system on Earth. An extremely light, fast, and deadly package.
The Speed line of guns continues the present to the consumer, the choice of function over form. The same performance as the G7 FLY, without any of the bells and whistles.