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Old 01-04-2004, 05:24 PM   #1
amzng_spyderman
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custom modifications FAQ

this should hopefully cut down on the unnecessary questions in this forum. if you wish to post a question, make sure it hasn't been asked already. also, please don't post about a specific marker. if you would like to answer a question, please quote the question and answer below.

Quote:
Where can I get my marker anodized?
there are many places to have this done. www.jackalmachine.com, www.maxanodizing.com, and www.aplusanodizing.com are some of them.
Quote:
Should I paint my marker?
no. the paint will chip easily and is easily scratched. anodizing is the best choice as it will protect the aluminum. if you have a steel mag then you can't get it anodized. painting is your only option.
Quote:
Are there custom modifications for (insert marker name here)?
first, ask in the marker specific forums or try to find an owner's group for the particular marker. if you haven't found anything, draw up a modification of your own and submit it here.
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Last edited by amzng_spyderman : 10-31-2005 at 06:03 AM.
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:49 AM   #2
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Re: airbrush ok?

Quote:
Originally posted by bobby four
would airbrushing my marker be a bad idea?
depending on the finish coat, airbrushing could last longer. unless you're looking to have a 'lowrider' marker with a mural on the side then anodizing is still the best option.
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Old 01-23-2004, 10:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tipp98WhisperEx
These are just a few questions... How does anodizing work and can I do it myself?
anodizing is the process of creating an aluminum oxide coating over an aluminum part. one puts an aluminum piece into a vat of sulfuric acid, water, and dye. electricity is then run through the mixture and causes anodizing. it's possible to do it yourself, but is very dangerous to both perform and clean up. acid should not be handled by anyone who is not experienced with such chemicals.

please add on any questions regarding custom modifications.
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Old 01-23-2004, 10:54 AM   #4
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uh hum? milling.......it gets asked a lot too. a lot of the places that do anodizing on markers also do custom milling. dont forget to just run a search on Yahoo or another internet search engine, as well, before posting a simple question as to where or who does this and that.
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Old 03-08-2004, 06:41 PM   #5
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Saw a few people posting questions within threads about where to get raw materials for projects like the ones you guys do - some of which are just totally awesome by the way.

For this design competion I am part of at school we have been getting our matertials off of mcmaster-carr. We mainly are shopping for aluminum stock for airplane landing gear, but they have tons of stuff.

The link is www.mcmaster.com

Just thought it might help some people find materials for new projects.
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Last edited by dmw16 : 04-27-2004 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:53 PM   #6
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For materials, another good place to check is hardware stores. High pressure fittings work fine for most marker applications, assuming that some PTFE tape is also used. I wouldn't count on finding macroline elbows there, but they carry plenty of miscellaneous nuts and bolts (literally) that can come in handy.
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Old 04-27-2004, 06:08 AM   #7
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there are two common thread measurements you will come across on most pb guns. one is 10-32, often used on grip frames, drop forwards, etc. the other is 1/8-27 NPT. this is for air fittings. most likely your macro or stainless steel fittings are 1/8-27 NPT, unless they are metric.

if you want to drill and tap either of these holes, you'll need:

a 21/64 drill bit, 1/8-27 NPT tap, and the proper tap wrench for the air fittings, and 10-32 tap, 5/32 drill bit, and the proper tap wrench for the grip frame type holes. you will most likely be tapping an aluminum part, so you will also need aluminum tap fluid.

to tap a hole is simple. just drill the hole in the correct spot, put the tap in the wrench, secure the part you're tapping, insert the end of the tap into the newly drilled hole, make sure the part and the tap make a 90* angle on all sides so it's even, and slowly screw the tap into the hole. every turn in, turn it out a quarter turn to break the chip you just made. continue to desired depth.
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Old 05-08-2004, 03:13 PM   #8
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I'd just thought I'd say that Sexy Turtle anodizing has stopped anodizing for this year. On their site, it says they might start up again in 2005, though.

Last edited by amzng_spyderman : 10-30-2005 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 05-08-2004, 03:58 PM   #9
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Just thought I'd say that a properly done paintjob is every bit as durable as anno.
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Old 05-27-2004, 06:03 PM   #10
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Putting Stickers on my Marker

How do I put stickers on my marker and make them stay on there? Do I use a glue or what?
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Old 06-24-2004, 08:47 AM   #11
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I always put rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball, rub the side of the object down, let air dry, then attach sticker.
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Old 10-30-2004, 12:01 PM   #12
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What about the Threads to a spyder dentent hole to make dual dentents? does anyone know the correct threads on a stock kingman body? Even called kingman and they didn't know.
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Old 11-02-2004, 12:59 PM   #13
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Milling was mentioned. Fireball mountain will mill for a reasonable fee

http://www.fbmfactory.com

They also do anodizing and laser etching, much better than a sticker.
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Old 11-20-2004, 12:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by amzng_spyderman
there are two common thread measurements you will come across on most pb guns. one is 10-32, often used on grip frames, drop forwards, etc. the other is 1/8-27 NPT. this is for air fittings. most likely your macro or stainless steel fittings are 1/8-27 NPT, unless they are metric.

if you want to drill and tap either of these holes, you'll need:

a 21/64 drill bit, 1/8-27 NPT tap, and the proper tap wrench for the air fittings, and 10-32 tap, 5/32 drill bit, and the proper tap wrench for the grip frame type holes. you will most likely be tapping an aluminum part, so you will also need aluminum tap fluid.

to tap a hole is simple. just drill the hole in the correct spot, put the tap in the wrench, secure the part you're tapping, insert the end of the tap into the newly drilled hole, make sure the part and the tap make a 90* angle on all sides so it's even, and slowly screw the tap into the hole. every turn in, turn it out a quarter turn to break the chip you just made. continue to desired depth.
could a dremel be used for tapping
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Old 11-20-2004, 12:56 PM   #15
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it could be used to drill the hole, but you can't use a dremel to tap the hole.
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Old 11-20-2004, 01:00 PM   #16
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thanks
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Old 12-08-2004, 03:16 PM   #17
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Being the custom mods forum, there are a lot of questions about making your own drop. Someone more expierenced than myself should add something in here about the purpose of drops, how you can make your own, what you should use, etc.
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Old 01-18-2005, 08:29 AM   #18
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I am going to make a drop in my metalwork class. I want to make one like the 32*Flame Dropforward. I don't know the demensions and lengths. I have looked and can't find it anywhere. How much of a curve should it have, and how long...from the grip to the ASA should it be?

thx
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Old 01-18-2005, 12:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by therapists
I am going to make a drop in my metalwork class. I want to make one like the 32*Flame Dropforward. I don't know the demensions and lengths. I have looked and can't find it anywhere. How much of a curve should it have, and how long...from the grip to the ASA should it be?

thx
if you are going to use a drop forward, you should figure out what feels best for you...that way, you don't need to copy the 32* one...you can make it your own...and still put flames on it if you want(but, personally, I use a no drop rail, so I have no interest in making drop forwards...esp cuz they are uncomfortable)
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:39 PM   #20
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Regarding anndizing, on my 2k4 viking, there is type3 anno.I've heard this hard to un-do and costs extra or something? Can I just get it reannoed type3 green on top of the anno already on there?

thanks
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