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Old 02-23-2004, 12:24 PM   #21
schoolsukz08
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Re: Sear Adjusment

Quote:
Originally posted by CravenMooreHead
How do you adjust the sear?
The screw in the left side of the frame is the locking screw and the screw in the back of the frame is adjustment screw. Screwing it in makes the sear lower and screwing it out makes the sear higher.

Screw In = lower sear
Screw Out = higher sear
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Old 02-24-2004, 07:53 AM   #22
CravenMooreHead
 
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Is this option on the 2K3 TES? Mine is about 2 months old and I cannot seem to find the 2 screws. I read in another thread that said it was not put on the new TES's. My wife disposed of my manual (getting a new one from Dragun Empire) so the only reference I have is the gun itself. Left side if you are shooting the gun? about where on the frame? Sorry I am fairly new to PB.

Thanks for the help!!!!
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Old 02-24-2004, 08:00 AM   #23
20bps_tes
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i have herd that the new t.e.s 's dont have the adjustment screws but that could be a line of bull s***

O.K. then, here is what you do:

1. Degas you marker.
2. Cock you marker.
3. Look to the left of your grip frame right behind your solenoid. There is a small allen key bolt. Unscrew it until it is flush with your gripframe.
4. Next, unscrew the back allen bolt that is right behind your grip frame.
5. Next screw in your back allen bolt slowly until you marker uncocks.
6. Unscrew the back allen bolt 1 turn from where ur marker uncocked.
7. Recock your marker.
8. Turn your marker on and see if you can fire it.
9. If you can fire it, then gas your marker up, cock it and dry fire it to see if it recocks.
10. If it recocks then tighten in the allen key on the left hand of the grip until it stops, then add another 1/8th just so the screw dont come loose again!!


hope that helps!!

Last edited by 20bps_tes : 02-24-2004 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 02-24-2004, 08:15 AM   #24
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Okay,

What they say must be true, I still don't see those screws. Just to make sure this is what I see. In the left grip, where the LCD is visible, there is a notch cut out towards the top back at the curve. The notch is about 1/8 in in diameter. I assume that this is where the lock screw would set, there is just solid metal behind it. On the back, where the on/off and set buttons are, there is no screws of any type.
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Old 02-26-2004, 06:33 PM   #25
TESballer
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my friend just bought a TES and his board is all screwed up and needs a replacement... i know they have everything on warrenty, but it said u have to pay half price on electronics, dose anyone know how much thats going to cost
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:48 AM   #26
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what the hell, its not free?!? thats pretty dumb. but no, i have no clue how much it would be, just fone them up and ask.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:36 AM   #27
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thanx anyway ill tell u guys the price when my friend finds out if they don't give him it for free
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Old 03-03-2004, 07:26 PM   #28
unknownpsycho
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The warranty card states that electronics are under full warranty for only 30 days... seems they must get alot that crap out on em a little after a month of...
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Old 03-04-2004, 06:18 AM   #29
Dark Fox
 
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Unhappy omfg

That gas leak problem, that is common on the TES (the one out of the front block + out of the screw that holds it in), is easily fixable you said. But isn't it a better idea to just ship it back to the factory, cause you paid for it and it is defect. Yes, you probably wouldn't because you want to play with it asap (so you go for the fastest/easiest/cheapest way out).

I had it returned to the local shop (where i bought it) the last 4 times ... and every time on the field it leaked again, after about 5 minutes playing with it. Now that screw has been screwed in to tightly , it leaks ( so the screw is broken... i'd have to get a new one for it to work correctly so to speak). But a TES repair kit costs 20 euros over here, and I dont have that money ....

What do you guys think I should do??
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Old 03-04-2004, 08:31 AM   #30
unknownpsycho
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for the front block leak problem, just go to your local hardware store and swap those hard green orings for some softer ones of the same size (maybe slighly thicker).
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:38 PM   #31
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teflon tape!!!!!!!!!
it really works
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Last edited by TESfreak : 03-05-2004 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:08 PM   #32
TESballer
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yo i know the whole deal about the drop and regualator metric stuff but couldn't you just replace the cradle on the drop that attches itself to the gun. i know the TES has standard inline holes on the grip and i found a cradle here with that http://store.yahoo.com/actionvillage/031-7961-1.html
its the System X Web Cradle for $25 i was wonderiong if this would work or not
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:37 PM   #33
unknownpsycho
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I put a shocktech drop rail on my TES. I had to file it down alot because the dovetail was too big for the stock ASA. It works now (after quite a bit of filing and hammering) and I didn't have to replace the reg.
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Old 03-05-2004, 11:01 PM   #34
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thanx ill try that i guess
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Old 03-28-2004, 12:24 PM   #35
mry7
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i just got my T.E.S yesterday, and the front block is leaking when its cocked, when i uncock , it leaks out of the barrel. Do i have more than one problem here or will the teflon tape fix it all?
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Old 03-28-2004, 12:28 PM   #36
schoolsukz08
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Quote:
Originally posted by mry7
i just got my T.E.S yesterday, and the front block is leaking when its cocked, when i uncock , it leaks out of the barrel. Do i have more than one problem here or will the teflon tape fix it all?
Teflon the front block and it will leak when uncocked because the valve is opened.
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Old 03-28-2004, 01:03 PM   #37
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I took off the detent on my friend's TES and when I screwed it back in, the knurled cap came off! I must have screwed it in too hard. I managed to get the threaded part out of the body, and we were able to press the two peices back together and screw it back in. Is it possible to screw in TOO far? Will this give him problems in the future? I would buy him a new detent if I knew where I could get one.
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Old 03-28-2004, 01:51 PM   #38
mry7
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i tryed the teflon tape , and it doesnt leak nearly as much as it used to. I used to not even be able to use it cuz of major leak, now it leaks a lil tiny bit (i put my ear up to the front block and i can hear it). I heard somewhere something about replacing the front block orings? what kinda orings should i put on there? I wanna replace the orings and use teflong cuz i dont want my gun leaking
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Old 03-28-2004, 02:44 PM   #39
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Just bring one of the O-rings you will be replacing into a hardware store and tell them it has to be CO2 resistant (if you use Co2), and get the same size.

Could someone tell me where I could get a replacement detent for my friend?
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Old 03-28-2004, 03:18 PM   #40
mry7
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well my local hardware store got some redneck workin there that is about as dumb as my dog. I asked him where the drill bits were at (huge store couldnt find it) and he didnt know what they were..... anyways, i did fix it, i found the leak, i put some tape around the place where the reg screws into that lil short piece that connects it to the 90* thing that has the guage in it.
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