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Old 03-28-2004, 04:39 PM   #41
TESfreak
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
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spyder call up dragun they should give you a new one
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Main Gun
Black 2 Green Dragun TES
Shocktech Supafly Bolt
47/3k Crossfire HPA Tank
Black & Red Dye Tank Cover
12v Revy w/X-Boared


Soon To Come
Eggy2 w/Z-boared
Dye Ultra-Lite
Shocktech Reg
Check-It Speedy Drop And On Off
ACP Slasher Trigger
IS 50g Switch
And If I Get All This Maybe The One Kit
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Old 04-14-2004, 06:15 AM   #42
unknownpsycho
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up.... Caleb, you really should sticky this
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Old 04-14-2004, 07:45 AM   #43
Calebd2
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Good work.

Stickied!
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Old 04-14-2004, 02:35 PM   #44
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wow, it only took like 3 months and now i rarely even post here anymore
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Old 04-17-2004, 07:05 PM   #45
flyinryin
 
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trigeer adjustment

in your online TES manual, it is kind of confusing because you don't say that you have to take apart the whole frame to adjust the trigger. i had trouble figuring it out and i bet others do too. i am very happy with what you are doing for everyone with that p.o.s. owners manual.
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Old 04-17-2004, 08:30 PM   #46
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Does the lapco cup seal (found at http://www.lapcodirect.com/ProductDe...=4&SubCatId=51 ) work for the TES? It looks to be about the same size but I'm not sure.

edit: yes, there is a problem w/ mine

UPDATE: no, it does not work with the TES
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Last edited by adude2112 : 04-29-2004 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 04-17-2004, 08:48 PM   #47
schoolsukz08
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Quote:
Originally posted by adude2112
Does the lapco cup seal (found at http://www.lapcodirect.com/ProductDe...=4&SubCatId=51 ) work for the TES? It looks to be about the same size but I'm not sure.
Yes it does, but don't get one unless there is something wrong with yours.
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Old 04-22-2004, 02:07 PM   #48
t.o.d.
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
metric threads

i haven't read through all of the posts but i saw several regarding the metric threading issue for drop forwards etc. someone may have already mentioned this but oh well. i have the same problem with my spyder but if you go to any local pro shop they should have a metric to standard conversion fitting. they are about 8 bucks. you can find them online as well. i use one on my spyder and then a steel braided line to go from the bottom of my reg to the drop and it works fine. for 20 buck you can get around the metric thread problem and don't have to buy a reg. just my 2 cents.

also, thanks for all the info on the TES, mine should be here next week!
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Old 04-22-2004, 02:15 PM   #49
schoolsukz08
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Re: metric threads

Quote:
Originally posted by t.o.d.
i haven't read through all of the posts but i saw several regarding the metric threading issue for drop forwards etc. someone may have already mentioned this but oh well. i have the same problem with my spyder but if you go to any local pro shop they should have a metric to standard conversion fitting. they are about 8 bucks. you can find them online as well. i use one on my spyder and then a steel braided line to go from the bottom of my reg to the drop and it works fine. for 20 buck you can get around the metric thread problem and don't have to buy a reg. just my 2 cents.

also, thanks for all the info on the TES, mine should be here next week!
Metric to Standard conversions don't work on the TES.
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:31 PM   #50
t.o.d.
 
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since i am totally completely new to the TES world, can you tell me why not? I want to get the parts I need before my marker shows up next week. thanks in advance!
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:46 PM   #51
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...speaking of metric I had to find out the hard way that the allen wrenches/hex keys are metric on the TES. I have great luck,.... so I lost mine and had to replace them. (tip dont lose those 2 small allen wrenches that come with you TES).

edit:look at the stickies and most of the posts are helpers with problems from regulator changes to part replacement. Even trigger and switch upgrades, just dont be afraid to read the posts. I sure hope you have a great time with your new TES!

Last edited by shinkibigami9 : 04-22-2004 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 04-24-2004, 06:58 PM   #52
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Power Auto Off

In the "manual" (I use that term loosely) that came with my TES they talk about a Power Mode setting that is supposed to be accessed by pressing the B button 4 times while in fire mode. This takes me all the way through the menu back to fire mode. Am I doing something wrong?

Is there Power Mode and how do I get to it?

Also thanks for the on-line manual, other than this you have answered all my questions.

Last edited by Orcris : 04-27-2004 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 04-25-2004, 07:12 AM   #53
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I was wondering the same thing. When I first got my TES I mysteriously got to that auto power off mode and it got set to auto power off (I think) but I havent been able to get to it after that. Help us someone?
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Old 04-25-2004, 09:36 AM   #54
TESballer
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ive never gotten to power mode....i just turn it off when im done
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:36 PM   #55
wrenchbender
 
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TES Burping/Auto Fire/Runaway

NEW

TES adjustment for Burping/Auto Fire/Runaway

The key to remember is that the harder the velocity spring pushes the striker forward the more air pressure you need to re-cock the marker. The combination of a hard re-cock spring and high air pressure causes a violent firing cycle, then massive trigger response or auto fire or runaway or failure to re-cock. The answer is to reduce both the re-cock force and air pressure, creating a smoother firing cycle worry free shooting. So here's the steps:
To start it's assumed your striker and sear is stock, no mods or polishing completed. If so check to see if you rounded the peak on the sear that would stop the striker. It needs to be a crisp 90 degree angle for a polished striker, if it isn't that needs to be corrected before you go any farther.
Next I recommend using the velocity shim kit and spring kit for Spyders by Shocktech instead of stretching and cutting springs. These will come in handy later if you plan on using your TES through cold temps. www.xpaintball.com/shocspydshim.html www.xpaintball.com/spydshocspri.html

Next, set the regulator. Normally I start at 450psi, but as the days are get warmer you may start at 400psi.
1. Shoot across a chrono, record your speed
2. Turn you reg set screw an eighth of a turn in, clockwise to turn it down
3. Shoot a couple times to relieve the reg pressure
4. Shoot across the chrono again, if the velocity went up you’re on the other side of the reg peak, repeat steps 2 and 3 until the velocity drops when the reg adjustment screw is turned clockwise
NOTE: When you have the velocity following the reg adjustment, screw in=velocity goes down, screw out=velocity goes up you're reg is set correctly.
5. Replace the stock velocity spring with a weaker spring or smaller than stock spring shim, you can start as low as you want, I recommend at least one level stronger than the weakest and but leave yourself at least two stronger springs to go.
6. Set the velocity by the reg between 270-285fps (ignore the pressure on the gage)
7. Replace the spring or shim to one level stronger
8. Chrono under 300fps without adjusting the reg (you're leaving the reg for fine adjustment after the burping and re-cock issues are corrected)
9. Test fire, if it's over 300fsp go lighter on the shim or spring, you're goal is 295 by spring.
NOTE: If it burps the air pressure is too high. If it fails to re-cock increase the air pressure
10. When you chrono between 295 -300fps fine tune it using the reg.

NOTE: When you get it right you'll have a controllable trigger bounce but it's a fine line from trigger bounce to runaway.

By bringing the fire and re-cock cycle forces down together the TES runs great. Let the pressure end where it does. If you find you've completely lost your trigger bounce it's due to a light recoil. Simply increase both the spring strength and air pressure together until you get the bounce you want.

In the end my TES is running 293-297fps at 300psi. I ran over 1500 balls through it after this adjustment procedure with zero breaks, no burps, no issues.

Setup - Black to Green fade TES/Freak barrel/Evolution II Hopper/Spudnuk'l bolt/Check-It feed neck/68/4500HPA
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Old 05-11-2004, 06:05 PM   #56
wicked_one_26
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Heres my problem:

I just bought a 2004 TES and I am totally lost when it comes to the LED screen and functions. I can turn is on and thats pretty much all I can do. I have tes with the lcd display and come use all the functions no problem.

When i turn on the new tes, it says show your name here. what is that?
It also says Power-none.............what is that?


any help would be nice and get me playin faster
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:07 PM   #57
TESballer
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power-none maybe new batt

....i say get a new board but check your wires first idk
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:19 PM   #58
wicked_one_26
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I have a new battery and it a voltage meter so its good. I can change most of the settings like semi 4-20, timer, practice mode. What we couldnt figure out is when you first turn it on, it says "yournamehere" , know of any only documentation on how to use this? It would be great to find out because the papers that came with are missing pages.
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:51 PM   #59
wrenchbender
 
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Thumbs down Dragun Manuals Are Useless!

Sorry I don't have an 04 TES. It sounds like they changed the circuit board to add a name function so when it's turned on it shows the owner. My advice is to call Dragun/Odyssey @ 1-866-637-2486, tech support is ext. 112. Let them know you're disappointed in the manual and provide instructions or a refund.

In the mean time I have a friend that sells Dragun products. I'll see if I can get something for you. It probably won't be tonight though.

Personally I wouldn't take the TES manual camping to use for a fire starter. That's how useless it is.

But, that's just my opinion.
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:58 PM   #60
TESballer
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when you hold the B button it turns on then the LCD should shoe DRAGUN and bollow it, it should say saftey flashing, will from what i heard instead of it saying dragun it says yournamehere well the board is fully programable so i guess its what is said above. (your tes is the one with the new grip frame right) rather than going through all that trouble just goto the sticky in here it has everything you will need.
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