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Old 03-28-2004, 02:33 PM   #21
shonie73
 
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well is it at least a good gun? it seems pretty nice to me...
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Old 04-10-2004, 03:57 AM   #22
Bloencustoms
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More about anti siphon tanks

I was reading the bit about running CO2 and thought I'd add the following:

When you get an anti siphon installed, it's important to remember a few things. The tank must be fitted to the ASA you plan to use with it. If you change to a different ASA, (many people change accesories very often) when you screw the tank in, the tube may no longer be oriented up, and can draw pure liquid CO2 into your marker. A solution to this problem is to purchase a tank cradle (Kapp makes a nice one) and an ASA that will fit inside. Have your tech mark the position of the anti siphon tube on the tank's valve with some nail polish or a sharpie marker. This way you can loosen the clamp on the cradle and rotate the whole tank/ASA assembly until the tube is oriented up and always be sure that you are drawing gaseous CO2.

Still, I'd only use CO2 if HPA isn't available in your area. If money is no object, you can set up a nice scuba tank cascade. ;-)

EDIT:

It may help to use clear macro line when running CO2. You can actually see if liquid is entering your marker by observing the bubbles in the line.

Last edited by Bloencustoms : 04-26-2004 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 04-11-2004, 11:02 PM   #23
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Question

yeah okay, im a total autococker newb, on the Worr games autococker 2003, on the features it has a one peice 3 way-what the hell is that, and how badly does the anti siphon tank matter on an autococker?????
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Old 04-12-2004, 04:56 PM   #24
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The three way is the little cylinder on the front end of the marker that has three hoses attached to it. A one piece three way is one that must be adjusted via the timing rod. More complicated three ways enable you to adjust them with a little knob or an allen wrench.

An anti siphon will help prevent liquid CO2 from escaping the tank and entering your marker. Once it gets inside the marker, it damages O rings and reg seats, and can expand to increase the pressure. This will cause wildy fluctuating velocity (severly affecting accuracy), and can cause your marker to shoot at unsafe velocities. CO2 can work, if you take the proper precautions. It's no substitue for Air, but if it's your only option, make sure you do everything you can to get the most out of it. Anti siphon tanks are one way to help get better performance from CO2.
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Old 04-19-2004, 03:04 PM   #25
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Okay I just got a cocker, and the gun is timed and everything and shoots fine, but I wanted to turn the velocity up a bit. I tried doing it and then came inside and checked on here to make sure I was doing it right. I was, and I unscrew the cocking rod and insert a 3/64 hex wrench into the hole and try to screw it clockwise and it won't turn, then I try turning it the other way just to see if it will turn and it won't . Is something wrong, if so what?

Also, When I hold down the trigger I listen to the pneumatics and I hear a very quiet leaking sound, is this normal? Its doesn't sound like alot is leaking at all. Again, is something wrong?

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Old 04-19-2004, 03:30 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by sirbubba101
Okay I just got a cocker, and the gun is timed and everything and shoots fine, but I wanted to turn the velocity up a bit. I tried doing it and then came inside and checked on here to make sure I was doing it right. I was, and I unscrew the cocking rod and insert a 3/64 hex wrench into the hole and try to screw it clockwise and it won't turn, then I try turning it the other way just to see if it will turn and it won't . Is something wrong, if so what?

Also, When I hold down the trigger I listen to the pneumatics and I hear a very quiet leaking sound, is this normal? Its doesn't sound like alot is leaking at all. Again, is something wrong?

Thanks
3/64? supposed to be 3/16.

shouldn't be leaking (at least mine doesn't). where in the pneumatics is it coming from?
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Old 04-19-2004, 03:37 PM   #27
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okay, nevermind. I read it wrong on the directions to change the velocity and the pneumatics stopped leaking and is fine now so I don't know what was wrong with that. Sorry bout my newbiness.
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Old 04-25-2004, 04:38 PM   #28
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Springs?

I can't seem to find an end-all guide to springs. Could somebody help me out here. Do I want heavy springs or light springs, and for the valve or the hammer? What's a good kit of springs to use? Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2004, 04:50 PM   #29
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Springs line up on either side of your valve / hammer assembly. A stiffer hammer spring will impact the valve harder, releasing more gas. A stiffer valve spring will resist the hammer's impact, releasing less gas. The reverse has the opposit effect. Lightening your hammer spring will release less gas, and lightening your valve spring will release more. More gas means higher velocity. By experimenting with different combinations of springs, you are able to achieve a balance where your reg's sweetspot falls within an acceptible velocity.

Beyond the effect that springs have on velocity and pressure, they also affect the force required to cock the marker. A stiffer hammer spring requires more force to clear the sear. By lightening the hammer spring, you can lower your LPR pressure without sacrificing cycle speed. But, you will have to sweetspot your reg again, and possibly lighten your valve spring to counteract the effect your lighter hammer spring has on velocity.

Last edited by Bloencustoms : 04-25-2004 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 04-25-2004, 05:10 PM   #30
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Re: Springs?

Quote:
Originally posted by FlameboyC11
What's a good kit of springs to use?
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Old 04-28-2004, 08:02 PM   #31
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i hope this is in the right place....on stock WGP primary regs where can i adjust it to sweetspot it
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Old 04-28-2004, 09:20 PM   #32
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Originally posted by CrazedBurro
i hope this is in the right place....on stock WGP primary regs where can i adjust it to sweetspot it
gotta take off the steel-braided hose. i think you can use a flathead screwdriver in there to adjust it. then replace the hose. it's a pain, but you'll want to replace the stock reg eventually, anyway.
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Old 05-01-2004, 07:59 PM   #33
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i admit that i am an autococker newb, but im trying to learn everything i can. so what exactly is timeing? i know it has to be adjusted to make the marker work, but do you set it to a certain trigger pull speed, or is it just how long it takes the gun to cycle? if i learn this it will make understanding other things easier. and how heavy is the trigger, comparred to an e-spyder
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Old 05-02-2004, 07:55 AM   #34
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Timing is setting your autococker up by adjusting the point at which the hammer is released, and adjusting the point at which during the pull the marker recocks. The trigger on a mechanical autococker will be heavier and longer than that of an E-spyder, simply because it's a mechanical marker. Unless you're using an eblade, in which case Eblade >>>> spyder.
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Old 05-02-2004, 10:01 AM   #35
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I would have to disagree, Unless you have a custom trigger with back stops and the front stop is tuned right to the micro-switch, the trigger pull will be about the same as an autococker. You can make autococker triggers super smooth, and pretty short. The shorter the 3-way pull, the shorter trigger pull.
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Old 05-02-2004, 01:13 PM   #36
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E-spyders come stock with front stops, so it's pretty much a given that people will shorten it as much as they can. Without the spring, your pull can be very light. Around 200 grams IIRC. The thing the spyder has over a mech frame is that it doesn't need to be pulled and released the whole way, which is why I'd say the spyder triggers are more walkable.
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Old 05-09-2004, 06:07 AM   #37
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WGP and Non-WGP

I was wondering if the Smart Parts cocker was actually a cocker or a focker?
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Old 05-09-2004, 08:21 AM   #38
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It's a belsales cocker actually. Smart Parts just distributes them. I believe those are WGP liscensed autocockers.
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Old 05-09-2004, 08:23 AM   #39
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smart parts doesn't make a cocker, but they distribute the belsales evolution cockers. they're true wgp bodied cockers.
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Old 05-10-2004, 04:25 PM   #40
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ok
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