THIS STICKY ASSUMES YOU HAVE A BASIS ON COCKER WORKINGS. This should answer all Trilogy questions, if not, PM me and your question will be incorporated in here with your name added at your option.
Buying a Trilogy
The Sport has a blue anno, the Competition(Comp.) has the red/black, and the Pro is the silver/purpleish.
1. Trilogy costs less.
2. Trilogy is easier to maintain, it got rid of some of the features nobody used.
3. Trilogy shoots exactly like a traditional autococker.
4. Trilogy is much lighter weight and stronger than the traditional autococker(single body).
1.Special mounting equipment is needed for a traditional LPR, and an e-frame's solenoid. Discussed later.
2. Less upgrade options available at the time.
If you want to know which Trilogy to pick, always go with the Comp. or Pro.
The Sport, decent in its ways, you get alot more when you go Comp. or Pro. Pro is the best of the 3 stock, unless you woodsball then your anno will give you off.
You will get better everything for the extra 20-30 dollars for the Comp., 80 dollars more for the Pro. You will save alot of money in the long run, by paying more up front. This is true when you up to the Pro, even more savings for you.
IMO= in my opinion, you'll just have to try it for yourself.
Advantages of upping to Comp. from Sport:
Regulator from Gas Through
Better valve operation - made more for HPA, but handles CO2 well.
Better grips(IMO) - not just panels, they wrap around
Advantages of upping to Pro:
Trigger Frame(it's full sized) - 2 finger, not 1 1/2.
3 piece barrel system - to get a better ball to barrel match.
The Trilogy will work on CO2 or HPA. If you must use CO2, then have an anti-siphon tube installed. If you can't, marker freeze, shootdown, and inconsistent velocity result more often.
HPA is reccomended. All of CO2's problems are corrected using HPA.
Originally Posted by Psycho Acumen
The marker runs around 300psi and an LP tank puts out around 400psi. The general rule of thumb is that you want at least 150psi more pressure going into the regulator than the regulator is putting out to prevent starving the marker of air.
450 > 400psi preset
You could probably get away with an LP tank for a mech marker, but again, that tank would only work on low pressure markers. So any markers running above 200-300psi won't be able to use the tank.
shadow102(PbNation) discovered the pump arm is not standard length. As for now, we have no replacement pump arms. The ram is mounted farther back on a Trilogy.
You cannot upgrade the 4-way. You can put a TechT adjustable actuator rod on there(see Timing).
You cannot put a front block on a Trilogy, because it doesn't exist.
You cannot put any new LPR on the Trilogy, you may put a Palmer's Micro Rock custom made for the Trilogy
on there. TechT and Planet Eclipse manufacture adapters for new LPRs.
The valve is not the same as any cocker valve. This goes for the valve spring as well. Palmer's makes a new valve for the Trilogy, benefits are unknown, but here's an image.
Search Palmer's Pursuit Shop's website. It is labeled the Trilogy LT valve.
Some rams will fit:
Hybrid Half Pint
The Nexus will need some sanding of the nut at the end. We've been told the MP-4(WGP) won't work. Thanks to Loncove(PbReview, PbNation)
The stock ram is removeable, but in the following steps. First, remove all hoses. Then, hold a lighter to the body area where the ram bolts on. This will melt the loctite, and if your annodizing stains black, it will easily rub off. Twist the ram in a little bit more, and remove the rear barb using the proper tool. Now your ram is freely removeable. Replace barb after installing ram again. If your barb runs into the body on any ram, just remove it, install the ram, then put back the barbs. Finger tighten it. Redirect hoses as necessary.
Trigger frames are 100% compatable. Some may require buying the TechT actuator rod - it hasn't been confirmed but people quit asking once it is suggested.
The Trilogy has a cocker threaded barrel.
The feedneck is not removeable. Trinity makes a slip over design for the stock feedneck.
Merlin mQ valves shall fit. Shifty_P(PbNation) reveals this.
Never you mind the parts that can't be upgraded, everything else holds true.
The only aspect you cannot time the Trilogy in is the actuator rod - in it's stock form. TechT Paintball produces the first and only(as of 6/28/05) adjustable rod. Link
Your cocking rod may not be adjustable, simply because you may get one with the threading locked really well. Deal with it by buying a new one.
Cockertech.com has a 14mb video, and an article on how to time.
There are various mounting brackets for any cocker e-frame. TCPaintball, and Planet Eclipse are the 2 known.
made. Ordering information is in the first post in this link.
Eclipse-made eblade adapter(search)
AS FAST AS YOUR FINGERS WILL MOVE. Which is probably 6-8 bps.
If you electro your Trilogy, it will still move as fast as your fingers can. The ram may need to be upgraded to accomodate higher speeds, and QEVs/TRVs should be added.
LPR and Inline adjustment:
The LPR is adjustable. Remove it, look in the back, and you should see a screw. Twist inwards to lower pressure, and back out to raise pressure.
The inline regulator has a groove at the bottom, take a wrench and wrench if off, at the sake of alot of scratches. There will be your screw. Turn it inward to reduce pressure, opposite for the increase.
You should only try adjusting these if you use HPA, and you know what you are doing.
These markers for the price are very reliable. Don't be fooled by anyone who says otherwise. I have shot all 3 - I can tell you they work very well. They shoot as far, if the velocity on all markers were at a perfect 280, and they are VERY accurate, for stock. Anyone who says elsewise, is either a "cocker snob" or an idiot who hasn't done their research.
joeh(PbNation) has given us an image of his Sport torn down. Shifty_P(PbNation) edited the image with numbers, and has provided a list of all the items. Edited for size.
2) Barrel O-ring
3) Ram Housing
4) Ram o-ring
5) Ram Back
6) Ram Rod
7) Pump arm
9) Bolt o-rings
10) Pull Pin
11) Ram Barbs
13) Back Block
14) LPR Housing
15) LPR o-ring
16) LP hose guide
17) LPR Internals
18) Beavertail Screw & Washer
21) Valve Spring
23) Valve o-rings
24) Hammer Lug
26) Hammer Spring
27) Internal Velocity Adjuster
28) Cocking Rod
29) Internal Velocity Adjuster o-ring
30) Actuator Rod
31) Actuator rod o-rings (the other one is still on the rod)
32) Gas Through Grip
33) Gas Through o-ring
34) LP hosing
35) Trigger Frame
36) Trigger Frame Screws
37) Valve retaining screw
38) Bottomline ASA Screws
39) Air Source Adapter (ASA)
40) Grip Panel Screws
41) Grip Panels