Trilogy Facts - Page 51

Dark Master · 01-11-2006, 03:00 PM

Nope. Just 2 macro fittings and a piece of macro.

Uziel Gal · 01-11-2006, 03:04 PM

If you want to have the hose to be more or less horizontal, you will need two 90* macroline fittings with standard 1/8NPT threading. If you want to loop the hose down and then up in to the reg, you will need one straight fitting and one 90* one.

viks · 01-11-2006, 03:06 PM

So I can't use the fittings that came with the gun? I can't just take off the steal line?

Dark Master · 01-11-2006, 03:07 PM

No, macroline requires macroline fittings.

drtalent · 01-11-2006, 03:13 PM

Uziel I was going to go from stock comp bolt to slik bolt so that is the comparison. If they are both the same though efficiency adding. then the reg because it adds consisteny.

joedirt282002 · 01-19-2006, 04:07 PM

i watched that video on timing our cocker on cockertech.com, and for the trilogy to time it, i cant adjust the cocking rods. i can see some threads below the end grip, but i cannot turn it at all. Ive tried alan wrenches, pliers to twist it, but i cant adjust it because the bolt it showing down the feeder when the video said to be a little bit out of view. so am i doing it wrong, or can the cocking rod even be adjusted on the trilogys

Uziel Gal · 01-19-2006, 04:10 PM

There should be a small grub screw in the back of the cocking rod knob. This is locking the knob in place. To adjust the length of the rod, you will need to loosen the grub screw first. When you have finished, you need to lock it down again.

joedirt282002 · 01-19-2006, 04:18 PM

i just got the on/off and macroline set up in and i shot my gun for the first time with all my new ups. the ans trigger is a lot better then the stock frame, but i will only shoot like every 3 good pulls. i was pulling just as far as every other time, but it was not always shooting. it would cock and everything, but it wouldnt shoot the paint. it sounds like air is coming out also when it does this. could this be because my gun isnt timed right, or something else.

Uziel Gal · 01-19-2006, 04:22 PM

Probably means that the marker isn't always cocking each time, so when it doesn't cock, it won't fire with the next trigger pull.

There are a number of reasons why an Autococker may have cocking reliability issues, but as you have changed the frame, timing or the trigger length are the most likely reasons.

Another thing to check is that the cocking rod is screwed in tightly.

drtalent · 01-22-2006, 01:27 PM

I am planning on getting a new reg soon and I was wondering do I have to let it wear in before I can sweet spot it?

Uziel Gal · 01-22-2006, 01:40 PM

Would be for the best.

A new reg can be inconsistent to begin with, depending on how well it is made, so any settings you make with a new reg can change as it wears in. The inconsistency would make it hard to identify the sweet spot pressure anyway.

drtalent · 01-22-2006, 01:41 PM

the reg would be cp. How long before sweet spot 2,000 shots? Also should I somewhat sweet spot when I get it or just run it at stock pressure until break in

lotten454 · 01-29-2006, 03:06 PM

hey, the ans trigger frame requires an adjustment with the sear lug. i timed mine that way and it shoots like a champ.

joedirt282002 · 01-29-2006, 04:50 PM

i just went out today and it was shooting terrible. one out of every 3 seemed to fire, then they would shoot out three and have bad accuracy. what do i need to do in a detailed explanation to get my gun back timed right. i got the ans and it seems not to be reach good. what do i do!??

Dark Master · 01-29-2006, 04:53 PM

So when you pull the trigger, it seems now and then, but does the back block still go back on every pull?

Uziel Gal · 01-29-2006, 10:53 PM

Sounds like the marker isn't always staying cocked between shots, leading to extra balls being loaded, but not being fired until the marker does fully cock.

Poor cocking reliability can be down to a number of reasons: -

1. Lowering the hammer lug is one thing that can resolve this problem.
2. If your hammer has a round or conical tipped lug, try a flat tipped lug instead. The sear is more likely to catch it.
3. If you sear spring is too light, it won't hold the hammer reliably - fit a longer or stiffer sear spring, or reduce the hammer spring tension.
4. If the sear or the hammer lug is heavily worn, they may need replacing.
5. If the hammer spring tension is too high, the sear may not be able to hold the hammer - reduce the hammer spring tension, or increase the sear spring tension to compensate.
6. You may need to increase your LPR pressure to ensure that the hammer is always pulled far enough past the sear. As this is the Trilogy, this should not be an issue unless you have actually lowered the LPR pressure at any point.
7. If the cocking rod is set a little too long, this may again stop the hammer being pulled far enough past the sear. Make sure that the cocking rod length is set so that the bolt only just clears the feed neck when the bolt is pulled back.
8. The simplest one - make sure that your cocking rod is always done up tight! If it is loose, the hammer wont be pulled back far enough for the sear to catch the lug every time. I have put this at the end of the list, but check this first!
9. It can also be down to slow regulator re-charge rates causing the LPR to lose pressure, so it might be worthwhile stripping cleaning and lubricating your LPR and inline regulator.
10. The timing rod may be set to re-cock too late in the trigger pull, which when reversed, will move the bolt forward before the sear has had time to move back up. You will need the TechT shaft kit to resolve this problem if you do not have one already.
11. The trigger stops on your frame may be set to give too short a pull, not allowing the 3-way valve to switch fully. This can be resolved by adjusting the hammer lug and timing rod to adjust the firing and cocking points, or by adjusting the trigger stops to allow for a longer trigger pull.

There are instructions about timing your marker in the FAQ. If you have any questions about specific items in the list, just ask, but it would take forever to give you a detailed explanation for the whole list.

joedirt282002 · 01-30-2006, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dark Master

So when you pull the trigger, it seems now and then, but does the back block still go back on every pull?

yes

lars1y · 02-08-2006, 04:37 AM

Dark and Uziel,

A while back you recommended that I install a orracle cam adjustor and a timing rod from Tech T. Wow what a difference that makes!! Decreased my trigger pull by 3/4s! Increased my speed and decreased by short stroking dramatically!! Thanks for the help there.

New question.
How can I decrease the pressure needed to pull the trigger? Is there a spring to cut or remove? How do I go about performing your recommendation?

Thanks for any help.

Lars

Uziel Gal · 02-08-2006, 09:53 AM

There is a small "clip" spring in front of the trigger that is used to return it to the forward position after you pull it. If you remove the frame from your marker, the spring can easily be hooked out. As long as you have a smooth 3-way action, the clip spring isn't necessary. Removing it will instantly make your trigger pull lighter.

You can also remove the sear (push out the pivot pin to remove it) to access the sear spring which can be replaced with a lighter one, if you can find a spring of the correct size. However, this can reduce the sear's ability to hold on to the hammer lug, so you don't want to go too light. If you have also removed the clip spring from the front of the frame, a lighter sear spring could also lead to the trigger not returning all the way.

Try the clip spring first, as that normally works fine, and may be all you need to do to get the trigger as light as you want it. If the trigger still isn't light enough for you, then try experimenting with the sear spring.

lars1y · 02-08-2006, 10:13 AM

Thanks Uziel,

As always you are the man!!!