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Old 02-10-2006, 01:54 PM   #1021
Rebel 1052k
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thanks that was good info
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Old 02-28-2006, 04:41 PM   #1022
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Question Problem with my Pro

Iv got an autococker trilogy pro and im using a Macdev Conquest nitro tank, which is 68/4500 and has a Palmer regulator on it. The problem is that whenever I turn the nitro on, the gas comes out of the little hole underneath the barrel of the gun, like its supposed to do until the gun is cocked and shot. Except Ill cock and shoot the gun a few times, but it just keeps coming out and uncocking. The regulator shows the pressure gauge at about 100 psi,and Iv heard that cockers need a little higher pressure, but if so, what do I do? Please let me know if this is really the problem or if anyones got any comments, or if Im just an Idiot. Sorry if any of my infos wrong but im new to autocockers and nitro tanks.
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Old 02-28-2006, 04:43 PM   #1023
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What hole under the barrel? If it keeps un-cocking, lower the lug.
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Old 02-28-2006, 04:53 PM   #1024
Uziel Gal
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I think he is referring to the 3-way? I cannot think of anything else.

spfredman - the only place you would expect gas to escape from if the marker isn't cocked is down the barrel - it shouldn't leak from anywhere else.

To increase the pressure coming from the regulator, turn the adjustment screw clockwise - 300-350psi would be a good starting point until you get a chance to tune the regulator (see the sweet spot article in the FAQ).

As for the leak, it may be resolved when you have the right pressure going in to your marker. If not, there are a number of reasons why the 3-way may leak: -

1. Your LPR pressure may be too low.
2. The 3-way may need cleaning and/or lubricating.
3. The o-rings may be worn and need replacing, or they may just be a loose fit.
4. The timing rod may be moving out of alignment with the 3-way valve. This can be solved by mounting a PTFE o-ring on the far side of the timing rod (if it projects out of the side of the frame). You used to also be able to get timing rod guides, but these aren't made anymore - Belsales may still have a few left.
5. The timing rod or 3-way shaft may be bent and need replacing.

Cocking reliability can also be caused by a number of different problems: -

1. Lowering the hammer lug is one thing that can resolve this problem.
2. If your hammer has a round or conical tipped lug, try a flat tipped lug instead.
3. If you sear spring is too light, it won't hold the hammer reliably - fit a longer or stiffer sear spring, or reduce the hammer spring tension.
4. If the sear or the hammer lug is heavily worn, they may need replacing.
5. If the hammer spring tension is too high, the sear may not be able to hold the hammer - reduce the hammer spring tension, or increase the sear spring tension to compensate.
6. You may need to increase your LPR pressure to ensure that the hammer is always pulled far enough past the sear.
7. If the cocking rod is set a little too long, this may again stop the hammer being pulled far enough past the sear.
8. It can also be down to slow regulator re-charge rates causing the LPR to lose pressure.
9. The simplest one - make sure that your cocking rod is always done up tight! If it is loose, the hammer wont be pulled back far enough for the sear to catch the lug every time. I have put this at the end of the list, but check this first!
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:57 PM   #1025
viks
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If you have an adjustable trigger frame
and a techt actuating rod
would it be possible to make the trigger pull less then 2mm
And would it work alright to begin with
or would there be some sort of conflict between the 2?
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Old 03-04-2006, 05:11 PM   #1026
Uziel Gal
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2mm may be a little too short to be fully reliable. Certainly though, you can make your trigger pull shorter than stock.
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It's just like a battle zone, you got a bottle and you're on your own.
Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze, none of those other weapons will faze me.

Hundred, hundred, hundred bottles on the wall, you wonder if you can drink them all.
Got to go home by 1am, the bottle wins the battle again.
Husker Du - "First of the last calls"
Back when I was popular
Supporting a friend:
HustlePaintball.com for Spyder paintball guns, Dye Markers, WDP Angel 1 and of course the Hustle Hotties.
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Old 03-06-2006, 09:56 AM   #1027
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yo i just got a trilogy competition cocker and i would like to know what i should get for it other then the e-blade and barrel

yo i just got a trilogy competition cocker and i am wondering wat upgrades i should get for it

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 03-06-2006 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:17 AM   #1028
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If you get the E-Blade you would be recommended to get an air system if you are currently using CO2.

Other things to consider would be the Trinity Trilogy clamping feed neck (it fits over your stock feed neck to get around the fact that your marker's feed neck is not detachable), a lighter bolt and back block, a faster ram, preferably with QEVs or TRVs fitted, and externally adjustable regulator (purely for making tuning easier) and an externally adjustable LPR (for the same reason) - you can either fir the Trilogy threaded Palmer Rock, or get the TechT LPR adapter which allows you to fit any normal Autococker LPR to the Trilogy.

Other options would be to fit the Palmer Low Turbulence valve, and an aftermarket hammer kit such as the Belsales Rex Sidewinder, which allows adjustment of the hammer spring without having to remove the hammer kit.
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It's just like a battle zone, you got a bottle and you're on your own.
Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze, none of those other weapons will faze me.

Hundred, hundred, hundred bottles on the wall, you wonder if you can drink them all.
Got to go home by 1am, the bottle wins the battle again.
Husker Du - "First of the last calls"
Back when I was popular
Supporting a friend:
HustlePaintball.com for Spyder paintball guns, Dye Markers, WDP Angel 1 and of course the Hustle Hotties.
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:23 AM   #1029
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well so far all i got was an 18" all american barrel and i was wondering wat the next thing should be beacsue i dont really know that much about the sport yet
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:29 AM   #1030
Uziel Gal
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There really isn't much point in making a lot of upgrades if you don't know what they are actually going to achieve, if even you even need them. As you can see from the above, there are all kinds of upgrades you could make, but unless you have a specific goal in mind, you may never really know what you have achieved by the changes you have made.

Use your marker for a while, then decide what you like about it, what you don't, and what you think is an aspect that is important, but could be better. Then choose upgrades will accentuate the positive aspects and eliminate the negative ones. That way, you have definite goals to work towards, and can judge your progress against what you are trying to achieve.

Upgrading for the sake of it is just a quick way to spend a lot of money for no particular reason.
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It's just like a battle zone, you got a bottle and you're on your own.
Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze, none of those other weapons will faze me.

Hundred, hundred, hundred bottles on the wall, you wonder if you can drink them all.
Got to go home by 1am, the bottle wins the battle again.
Husker Du - "First of the last calls"
Back when I was popular
Supporting a friend:
HustlePaintball.com for Spyder paintball guns, Dye Markers, WDP Angel 1 and of course the Hustle Hotties.
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:31 AM   #1031
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well i want it to look better like visualy and shoot faster but i dont really wana spend like 350.00 on the e-blade
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:36 AM   #1032
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you can buy eblades for like 230......
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:48 AM   #1033
Uziel Gal
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Yep, you shouldn't be spending 350 on an E-Blade. A lot of places sell them for $250 now, a few sell them lower as partofme has stated.

Making major cosmetic changes to the Trilogy would require milling and/or anodising the marker, which can work out expensive.
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It's just like a battle zone, you got a bottle and you're on your own.
Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze, none of those other weapons will faze me.

Hundred, hundred, hundred bottles on the wall, you wonder if you can drink them all.
Got to go home by 1am, the bottle wins the battle again.
Husker Du - "First of the last calls"
Back when I was popular
Supporting a friend:
HustlePaintball.com for Spyder paintball guns, Dye Markers, WDP Angel 1 and of course the Hustle Hotties.
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:04 PM   #1034
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Dark I'm probably going to get the slik bolt tomorow for my competition. For the money would you say the backblock, pull pin, cocking rod would be worth the money. For what the kit would cost over the bolt I could have a new ram
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:05 PM   #1035
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Get the kit. The ram should be fine for now.
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:08 PM   #1036
viks
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Will any ram fit on a trilogy pro?
And around how much do used eblades cost
Or a blind E-blade?
Thanks in advance
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:12 PM   #1037
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yes
i sold mine for 220 resale is very good.
Blind Eblade = bad
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:16 PM   #1038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viks
Will any ram fit on a trilogy pro?
And around how much do used eblades cost
Or a blind E-blade?
Thanks in advance
Not every ram will fit without modification. Look at the first page of this thread for more info.

E-blades cost $160+.
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:19 PM   #1039
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I know you don't like to answer this question dark but, how many cycles per second will the stock ram plus slick kit get me
also why kit the stock back block and pull pin seem pretty light
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:20 PM   #1040
viks
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Other than the E-Blade
What are some good Frames?
Mech or Electronic...
Thanks ...
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