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Old 07-09-2005, 02:35 PM   #1
Ebonclaw
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7 Easy ways to break your Ion.

Yup, some of these I've almost run into, and one or two I actually have. So for all you new Ion owners, PLEASE read this so you'll know what NOT to do. And for those of you who have done it, what it'll cost to have a new part sent from SP (price in parenthesis, not including S&H) because your mistakes are not covered by warrenty (duh).

1. First time dissassembly, follow the takedown guide in the FAQ. Trying to do it the way the manual says is confusing and not an easy task, and resulted in me bustng a hose that had to be replaced from the spare parts kit. When you remove the body, do so very genlty and try not to put any stress on any hoses, especially the shortest one.
(Busted hose, free, salvage from spare parts kit, do it again, it's $1.00 per hose)

2. Blowing your 'noid first time you gas it up. Yeah, this is a good one. The manual states, but not clearly enough I feel, MAKE SURE you turn the reg all the way IN and reduce the reg pressure to "0". You never know for the first time what your reg is set for PSI wise. You could send 300 PSI straight to your 'noid the first time you air it up, so make sure you turn the reg down to "0" and then ease the pressure up.
(New noid assembly: $75)

3. Crossthreading the banjos. When reassembling, the banjos on the firing chamber and swivel donut can be very easy to cross thread. The banjo's threads will likely survive, but you may find yourself needing a new (swivel donut:$10), (breech assembly: $50) or (grip frame: $70). Clearly, there are other parts that you can cross-thread, but those take some major effort. (If the banjo doesn't survive, they are $5 each, regardless of size)

4. Overtightening the banjos. When the banjo stops, it's done, don't force it any farther. The will either snap the (banjo:$5) in half or damage whatever the banjo was hooked up to (see #3 on this list) or both

5. 9V battery connection can be damaged one of two ays. You can either try to remove the battery by tugging on it, or your can pinch the connection wires by not putting the battery harness in towards the back of the gun. You'll likely pinch the cable with the circuit board when you slide it back in. (cheap to replace if you're decent at soldering)

6. Eye wire harnesses ($4, but try radio shack) can be broken if installed backward, bending or breaking the circuit board's pins ($75, as you just also busted the board that your 'noid is attached to) or the eyset board's pins ($20), or can also become damaged by "pinching" the harness during body reassembly. Hint: If lightly pushing on it with the allen wrench doesn't cause it to slide in place, it's backwards. Look carefully at the pins and the harness and you can figure out which way to do it.

7. The main circuit baord's on/off switch can become damaged if, in an attempt to turn the Ion on, you press the button really really hard. Again, this is the same board your 'noid is on. If your gun is difficult to turn on/off, peel back the membrane sticker, it's iikely just sticking to the button keeping it depressed. Shaving a bit off the back of the membrane helps. On the off chance you lose or destroy your membrane sticker, it can be ordered for ($1)



If you need a new factory part:
Depending on what it is, Punisher's paintball is currently, to my knowledge, the ONLY online store that sell replacement Ion parts, and yours may or may not be on there. If you need to get one from SP, call them. Their phone # is 1-800-992-2147 and are open for buisness Mon-Fri 10:00 AM-6:00 PM. Ask for the tech department and be as calm and courteous as possible.
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Last edited by Ebonclaw : 07-11-2005 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 07-09-2005, 02:53 PM   #2
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uh... sticky?
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Old 07-09-2005, 04:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by amzng_spyderman
uh... sticky?


What's your cat's name?
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Old 07-09-2005, 06:24 PM   #4
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I have one thing to add:
http://store.paintballace.com/ionpaandup.html some stock ion parts mixed with some aftermarket parts.

That took me forever to find that site. I was just surfing and I remembered I saw it somewhere but couldn't remember where.

Overall good thread and it will hopefully save some ions from an early death but most people don't read the stickies anyway.

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Old 07-09-2005, 06:43 PM   #5
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Wow, I didn't think doing such small things could end up setting you back that much money, very nice post.
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Old 07-09-2005, 08:34 PM   #6
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:Ebonclaw: "2. Blowing your 'noid first time you gas it up. Yeah, this is a good one. The manual states, but not clearly enough I feel, MAKE SURE you turn the reg all the way IN and reduce the reg pressure to "0". You never know for the first time what your reg is set for PSI wise. You could send 300 PSI straight to your 'noid the first time you air it up, so make sure you turn the reg down to "0" and then ease the pressure up.
(New noid assembly: $75)"
Ok, when you talk about turning your reg all the way down, from the bottom, if you screw it out, does that lower it, or if you screw it into the reg all the way, until you can't screw any more all the way down? This has been confusing, all I know is that you are to either screw it all the way out, almost it comes off the reg, or screw in into the reg until you can't any more. Please tell me what to do.

"6. Eye wire harnesses ($4, but try radio shack) can be broken if installed backward, bending or breaking the circuit board's pins ($75, as you just also busted the board that your 'noid is attached to) or the eyset board's pins ($20), or can also become damaged by "pinching" the harness during body reassembly. Hint: If lightly pushing on it with the allen wrench doesn't cause it to slide in place, it's backwards. Look carefully at the pins and the harness and you can figure out which way to do it."

Ok, about this one, what is the eye wire harness, is that the part, when you can almost take your gun apart, but there is a little brownish-tan wire connected to the eyes. I really don't get how you can tell they are backwards or not, can you tell just by looking, or do you have to see if they slide out easily?

"7. The main circuit baord's on/off switch can become damaged if, in an attempt to turn the Ion on, you press the button really really hard. Again, this is the same board your 'noid is on. If your gun is difficult to turn on/off, peel back the membrane sticker, it's iikely just sticking to the button keeping it depressed. Shaving a bit off the back of the membrane helps. On the off chance you lose or destroy your membrane sticker, it can be ordered for ($1)"

Ok, about this one also, I have looked at the membrane button (A.K.A. red flashing button on the left side of the marker facing away from you) I know how hard that is too push, but how do you shave it, when you take it off, I don't think it will get back on, and how do you know if it is too close to the button. I don't have my ION yet, I usually learn with pics, or hands-on, so if you can, show me some pics.

Thank you for the info, you have helped a lot of people in the future I am sure.
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Old 07-09-2005, 09:37 PM   #7
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Well considering he put IN in caps that would probably mean IN not out IN. As for the others I cannot help you.
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Old 07-09-2005, 10:38 PM   #8
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What time zone is SP in? Not sure if that's 10am-6pm pacific, central, eastern... or mountain... think that's all of them.
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Old 07-10-2005, 12:28 AM   #9
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Okay, questions answered:
Turn the regulator COUNTER CLOCKWISE to reduce pressure/lower the velocity. Do this before gassing up your gun for the first time.
The eye harness is the thin wire that connects the eyes to the circuit board. The 4 pins on the board can only go in one way, if the harness is upside down, you'll bend the pins.
The membrane switch is mainly just a sticker. It can be peeled back quite easily and the red membrane may need to be shaved slightly to prevent it from sticking. Use an exacto. A dab of super glue on it will make it regain its sticky and stil be removable if necessary later.

SP factory I believe is in PA, so that would be eastern time zone.
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If you're tired of people putting lines in their sigs and trying to get you to put it in yours, don't put this in your sig.

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Old 07-10-2005, 06:20 PM   #10
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thanks, I was looking for the info on ordering a new swivel donut ( I cross threaded it like in #3).

Last edited by Elian Gonzalez : 07-10-2005 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:21 AM   #11
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I'll have to try these 7 ways. Thanks!
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Lemme put it this way then. Its like taking a crap, some people drop em faster than others.
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Old 07-12-2005, 06:39 PM   #12
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:12 AM   #13
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Dang, Your right, thanks.
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Old 07-18-2005, 10:55 AM   #14
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3. Crossthreading the banjos. When reassembling, the banjos on the firing chamber and swivel donut can be very easy to cross thread. The banjo's threads will likely survive, but you may find yourself needing a new (swivel donut:$10), (breech assembly: $50) or (grip frame: $70). Clearly, there are other parts that you can cross-thread, but those take some major effort. (If the banjo doesn't survive, they are $5 each, regardless of size)

4. Overtightening the banjos. When the banjo stops, it's done, don't force it any farther. The will either snap the (banjo:$5) in half or damage whatever the banjo was hooked up to (see #3 on this list) or both


Ok, I just recently got my ION, and didn't want to commit these mistakes. When you say crossthreading the banjos, what does that mean? also overtightening the banjos... im a little confused. I took my gun apart when i got it and there was a screw that i needed to take apart in the front right after i remove the first 2 screws from under the trigger frame.

so to be absolutely clear, there's 3 screws you need to unscrew to remove the body. I'm talking about the 1 screw that's hidden inside the body that holds the front thing with the hose connected to it. Is that a screw i need to worry about overtightening? I needed an allen wrench to remove it. Or is overtightening the banjo something else?

please clarify.

thanks!
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Old 07-18-2005, 11:09 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by jsjaedon
Ok, I just recently got my ION, and didn't want to commit these mistakes. When you say crossthreading the banjos, what does that mean? also overtightening the banjos... im a little confused. I took my gun apart when i got it and there was a screw that i needed to take apart in the front right after i remove the first 2 screws from under the trigger frame.

so to be absolutely clear, there's 3 screws you need to unscrew to remove the body. I'm talking about the 1 screw that's hidden inside the body that holds the front thing with the hose connected to it. Is that a screw i need to worry about overtightening? I needed an allen wrench to remove it. Or is overtightening the banjo something else?

please clarify.

thanks!
The banjo fittings are indeed the brass things with the rubber around them that the hoses are attached to. Don't overtighten those. Once you feel a little tension when you're screwing them in, STOP screwing them in. What little o-ring those things have should keep them sealed.
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Old 07-18-2005, 11:34 AM   #16
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oh damn, now that i think about it. and watched the vid, the banjo fitting on the front of the trigger frame is counter-clockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen.....i feel like i did it the otherway around.... lemme guess, that's crossthreading huh? if you crossthreaded, would it feel like it's tightening as well? or would it not go in completely? now i'm really worried...
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Old 07-18-2005, 11:38 AM   #17
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Originally posted by jsjaedon
oh damn, now that i think about it. and watched the vid, the banjo fitting on the front of the trigger frame is counter-clockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen.....i feel like i did it the otherway around.... lemme guess, that's crossthreading huh? if you crossthreaded, would it feel like it's tightening as well? or would it not go in completely? now i'm really worried...
Um, no. It's righty tighty, lefty loosy. They're all the same.
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Old 07-18-2005, 12:28 PM   #18
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hmm...i was watching the assembly/dissambly vid posted in the ION faq sticky and it really looked like the dude was turning counter-clockwise to tighten and vice versa. im soo glad i did it right.

then i don't understand what the problem with crossthreading is. and also what exactly that is. since it's near impossible to screw in the wrong direction the threads are going, cause then it just wouldn't screw in.
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Old 07-18-2005, 12:30 PM   #19
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Originally posted by jsjaedon
hmm...i was watching the assembly/dissambly vid posted in the ION faq sticky and it really looked like the dude was turning counter-clockwise to tighten and vice versa. im soo glad i did it right.

then i don't understand what the problem with crossthreading is. and also what exactly that is. since it's near impossible to screw in the wrong direction the threads are going, cause then it just wouldn't screw in.
Crossthreading is screwing something in the right way but the threads don't catch correctly, causing the threads to "cut" each other up.
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ebonclaw
Okay, questions answered:
Turn the regulator COUNTER CLOCKWISE to reduce pressure/lower the velocity. Do this before gassing up your gun for the first time.
The eye harness is the thin wire that connects the eyes to the circuit board. The 4 pins on the board can only go in one way, if the harness is upside down, you'll bend the pins.
The membrane switch is mainly just a sticker. It can be peeled back quite easily and the red membrane may need to be shaved slightly to prevent it from sticking. Use an exacto. A dab of super glue on it will make it regain its sticky and stil be removable if necessary later.

SP factory I believe is in PA, so that would be eastern time zone.
When you turn it counter clockwise (left) is that when the reg is upside down or right side up?
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