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Old 10-06-2008, 04:32 PM   #1
200_OK
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autococker?

I want to know what every one thinks of Autocockers. I bought 1 in 1994 and loved it. This was back when the shop had to drill and tap for the ball detent. I just took my son to play last weekend. It was the first time i have played in ten years, and his first ever. We had a blast.
I am torn between an Autococker and a Tippman A-5. Back when I played, if you had cocker or AutoMAg you had it made and Tippman's were just rental guns. Now it seems everyone shoots them.
Any ways I sold the cocker about 7 years ago. I plan on playing mainly woodsball, but want to compete in a "shoot out" if I have to. I really don't want to spend over $300. What to you guys think. I don't want to throw my money away.

thanks
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:11 PM   #2
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Between and A-5 and a cocker? Cocker, any day of the week. The A-5s and their X-7 brother are very common, but they are not necessarily any higher quality than they were when you last played. Not saying they are bad guns, just saying that an autococker is going to be a better performer.

Another nice thing is that since Cockers are 'out of favor' vs. all of the newer electros, they can be found very cheaply. I've bought two, both of them '98s, and I've paid no more than $100 for either of them.
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Old 10-06-2008, 10:07 PM   #3
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the autococker is still a very good marker, they have just fallen out of favor, i have had a few, done a lot of work on electro cockers (stay away om the sf frame if you can) and i will still stick by them as a great marker.
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:35 AM   #4
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You could get an E-Bladed cocker for way less than $300. Heck, maybe even two, one for you and your son! Did a quick search on ebay & prices vary a lot. You should check it out.
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:58 PM   #5
ahfrederick
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Yes Sir! Def go with an Autococker! And I do agree with nerdcore, you can get an eCocker for less than $300. Hehe, I got my Karni for $100. So it's possible!

Keep us informed on what you and your son end up getting. Hopefully it's a WGP product!
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:11 AM   #6
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I'd say go with an automag over a cocker....
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:59 AM   #7
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I wouldn't. They are smaller, yes, but they aren't as accurate. They aren't as cool feeling to shoot either.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:12 AM   #8
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But don't you know, "quality always shoots straight" .
In truth, mags are just as accurately, but as far as shooting goes, I don't know how "cool" it is to have to deal with short stroking, and bad timing, that always plague cockers.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAGnuss View Post
But don't you know, "quality always shoots straight" .
In truth, mags are just as accurately, but as far as shooting goes, I don't know how "cool" it is to have to deal with short stroking, and bad timing, that always plague cockers.
Bad timing and short stroking only plague cockers that are cheap or poorly maintained, and with few exceptions they aren't cheap.

Granted, it does take a little bit of know how to get a cocker running smoothly, but that kind of information can be easily found. I originally avoided cockers because I had seen someone at a field having trouble with his. I've had two since, and they have both run perfectly fine, the only problems with them have been the result of too much fiddling on my part.
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Kingman Hammer w/ 13/3k, J&J Edge kit (14")

Projects in the Works:
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:39 AM   #10
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Once you set up a cocker correctly, you really don't have to do anything to it. I've had mine for about 3 years and the only problem I have ever had with it was that the LP pneumatic hoses got old and one of them came off, so I just replaced them all, costed me a total of $1 over 3 years to keep my cocker going.
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:40 PM   #11
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Timing always comes out of sync eventually, the lug will come loose over time, and so will the cocking rod for that matter. And short stroking a constant problem .
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Old 11-06-2008, 03:43 AM   #12
Uziel Gal
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An aftermarket hammer (which you should be able to pick up cheap now) with nylon lock screws will prevent the hammer lug and the cocking rod from coming loose - problem solved.

An application of ND Industries Vibratite will achieve the same thing with the stock hammer - just coat the threads of the lug and rod, leave it to dry, then screw them in. Vibratite is a rubbery compound that provides a friction lock rather than an adhesive lock.

As for short stroking, you can short stroke an Automag if you really try - it's just a matter of having the right trigger technique. Same goes for the Autococker. It's just less likely with an Automag due to the shorter pull. With a little work on an Autococker trigger and the timing, you can make it shorter, lighter and smoother, to the point where it becomes almost impossible to short stroke accidentally.
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uziel Gal View Post
An aftermarket hammer (which you should be able to pick up cheap now) with nylon lock screws will prevent the hammer lug and the cocking rod from coming loose - problem solved.
Wrong, Nothing prevents the lug from loosening permanently. I hammer with a nylock screw will keep it from happening quite as fast, but it still happens.
And short-stroking is not some rare occasional thing, unless you pull and release the trigger just right EVERY time, you will short stroke, chop paint, and have to spend precious time cleaning out your gun, barrel, and bolt.
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:02 AM   #14
Lenny17
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You have clearly had a bad experience with an autococker. Let me ask you to try it again, you'll find that they are not just a pile of problems waiting to happen.

If you were short stroking so often, clearly the cocker you were using was not well set up. It's very easy to adjust your trigger so that the bolt hangs back longer, making it almost impossible to short stroke.

As for pieces wiggling loose - that's also not nearly as big of a problem. I have had my cocking rod wiggle loose a little, but frankly, I didn't have it tight in the first place. A little bit of teflon tape or loctite (blue please, never red) will keep it in place. And really, all it takes is giving it a quick twist when you are cleaning your marker, that will make sure it stays put. They typically don't wiggle that loose in a days worth of play - it takes years of dedicated neglect.
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Markers:
2003 ICD BKO w/ 45/4.5k, Ricochet Apache

'98 r/f Autococker w/ 45/4.5k, J&J Edge kit (14"), Ricochet 2KX

PCS US-5 Mech. w/ 48/3k, J&J Edge kit (10"), cyclone feed, JCS folding voodoo stock with RVA

Kingman Hammer w/ 13/3k, J&J Edge kit (14")

Projects in the Works:
'99 r/f Autococker w/ 45/4.5k, J&J Edge kit (14"), and THE CYCLONE!!!
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAGnuss View Post
Wrong, Nothing prevents the lug from loosening permanently. I hammer with a nylock screw will keep it from happening quite as fast, but it still happens.
And short-stroking is not some rare occasional thing, unless you pull and release the trigger just right EVERY time, you will short stroke, chop paint, and have to spend precious time cleaning out your gun, barrel, and bolt.
Even on the very rare occasion that I do short stroke, I've never had it chop paint before. Like Lenny said and like pretty much everyone in this thread has said, if you take care of the cocker, the cocker will take care of you.
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Old 11-06-2008, 12:52 PM   #16
Uziel Gal
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I haven't short stroked an Autococker since about my second week of using one, and I've been using Autocockers since 1996.....

In reference to what EMPaint stated, with a few modifications - lighter bolt, lighter valve and hammer springs, smoother ram, maybe QEVs for good measure (to allow the ram to cycle a little easier, not to increase cycle rate), maybe a heavier hammer, polished bolt and hammer chamber, etc. - you can greatly reduce the cocking pressure of an Autococker, in some cases to the point where it becomes almost impossible to chop.

Like I said, I set up my triggers in a way that I find it almost impossible to short stroke them anyway. On some of my markers, I can release the trigger as slow as you like, and the sear lug will still be up high enough to catch the hammer when the back block cycles forwards. As for pulling the trigger in the first place, again, make the trigger pull smooth and short, and then either light or heavy according to preference (some people find that light is easier to pull all the way back, others find that a heavy pull forces them to pull the trigger harder, and find that that makes them pull the trigger all the way back - you have to adjust the trigger to what works for you) and short stroking pretty much stops.

Same goes for hammer lugs, since I started using aftermarket hammers, I have not had one come loose of it's own accord.

Then again, I regularly service my markers anyway, so I would notice if my marker adjustments were slipping before anything happened - prevention is as important as cure.

Honestly, you are welcome to believe this or not, but once I learnt how to set up and look after an Autococker, I stopped having any problems with them. Setting the marker up correctly in the first place is half the battle with an Autococker.
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Old 11-06-2008, 01:05 PM   #17
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Agreed Uziel
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:57 PM   #18
outoftowner
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Just a question, I know since cockers are technically mech, are you able to shoot co2 through them. And if i get one it would probly be a karni, is that co2 capable? I know HPA is the way to go but i dont have the money or the means of getting to a HPA fill station.
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:05 PM   #19
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http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=413857
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outoftowner View Post
Just a question, I know since cockers are technically mech, are you able to shoot co2 through them. And if i get one it would probly be a karni, is that co2 capable? I know HPA is the way to go but i dont have the money or the means of getting to a HPA fill station.
Co2 works fine through mech cockers, but when you replace the 3 way with the 5 way solenoid, like on the karni, that goes out the window. E cockers are like any electro, since they have a solenoid, they really need HPA.
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