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Old 01-02-2007, 10:37 PM   #1
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FEP Tech-Guide

Taken from the manual located here:
http://www.firstendeavorpaintball.com/pdf/final.pdf

Quest Body and 'Noid Breakdown:
  1. Feedneck
  2. Feedneck Clamp
  3. Feedneck Screw
  4. Size 017 Urethane O-ring
  5. Quest Body
  6. Body Plugs
  7. Solenoid
  8. Solenoid Screws
  9. Eye Covers
  10. Ball Detents
  11. Eye Cover Screws
  12. Ball Detent Springs

Ram Valve System:

  1. Bolt
  2. Pin
  3. Size 017 O-ring
  4. Size 018 O-ring
  5. Size 014 O-ring
  6. Bolt/Pin Washer
  7. Pin Plug

Low Pressure Regulator:
  1. LPR Housing
  2. LPR Valve Core
  3. LPR Piston
  4. Size 011 O-Ring
  5. LPR Spring
  6. LPR Washer
  7. LPR Cap
  8. LPR Adjustment Screw
  9. LPR Mounting Screw
  10. Size 018 O-Ring
  11. Size 006 O-ring
  12. 0-300psi Guage

Inline Regulator:
  1. Regulator Body
  2. HPR Valve Core
  3. HPR Piston
  4. Size 15 O-ring
  5. HPR Spring
  6. HPR Washer
  7. Regulator Cap
  8. Adjustment Screw
  9. Size 17 O-ring

Frame/Board:
  1. Quest Trigger Frame
  2. Quest Trigger
  3. Trigger Pull Adjustment Screw
  4. Trigger Stop Adjustment Screw
  5. Trigger Return Adjustment Screw
  6. Trigger Screw
  7. Trigger Bearings
  8. Front Frame Screw
  9. Back Frame Screw
  10. Trigger Return Magnet
  11. Quest Board
  12. Quest Chip (Now Replaced with a WAS Board)
  13. Eye Harness
  14. On/Off Button
  15. Battery/Solenoid Harness
  16. Battery
  17. Trigger Stop Pin
  18. Board Screws

Quest Animation/Airflow Diagram (Taken from PBN, created by Gen):

  • Dark Blue = High Pressure
  • Light Blue = Low Pressure
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Old 01-15-2007, 04:26 AM   #2
ubernuber
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Ok, so I'm coming from an Ion which I didn't take care of at all, so you'll need to help with some of this stuff.

1. How do I take apart the HPR and LPR?
2. When I 'clean and regrease' what grease/lube should I use and what should I check for in terms of the springs and pistons?
3. I put about 3-4 cases through it and it sounds like a shotgun and has some kick to it. I tell myself that it's just that I'm standing behind it but after hearing others' quests I've changed my mind. LPR is at about 100.
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Old 01-15-2007, 04:30 AM   #3
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oh, and if I am lowering my LPR do I need to up my HPR to compensate?
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:14 AM   #4
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As far as stripping the regs is concerned, refer to the above diagrams: -

LPR - Unscrew the LPR Cap (labeled part 7) to access the other parts.

HPR - Unscrew the Regulator Cap (labeled part 8) to access the other parts.

Not a lot more to it than that. After removing each regulators end cap, the other parts will come out in the order shown in the pictures above.

Any paintball specific grease is fine for lubrication. Commercially, Dow 33 is fine too.

The volume of your marker when shooting could be down to the barrel you are using, or the operating pressure you are running the marker at.

The LPR is mainly used to control the cycle speed of the bolt. It will have some effect on the velocity, but not in the direct way that the LPR on a ram operated marker would. If the bolt travels too slowly, the ball may have already left the barrel (at a reduced velocity), before the full charge of air is released. As long as the pressure is set to a sensible value, so that the bolt can cycle normally, the LPRs effect on velocity won't be too pronounced.
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Old 01-15-2007, 03:20 PM   #5
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uziel answered 1 and 2, but for the lube, hater sauce is the reccomended lube from FEP. the manual says dow 55, but that has proven inefficient compared to hater sauce. hater sauce is reccomended, but many other lubes work just as well(ie dow 33, slick honey), just try to avoid dow 55.

next the noise is normal. within the first 10 cases put through it, you can begin to lower the lpr and in turn reduce noise. but dont do that until it has been well broken in. some quests are noisy, others are not.

and no, you do not need to "balance" the regulators.
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:57 PM   #6
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Video of Disessebly
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...48814817313369
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:16 PM   #7
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Quests arent realy quiet till they are good and broken in(mine still isnt) but im runnin my LPR at around 85 right now and it helps alittle
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:16 PM   #8
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Especially if you are in a closed room or you don't have any paint in the marker.
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Old 01-20-2007, 04:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjm555 View Post
Quests arent realy quiet till they are good and broken in(mine still isnt) but im runnin my LPR at around 85 right now and it helps alittle

keep your quest lpr pressure at 95-100 until it is broken in. then begin lowering the lpr.
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Old 01-21-2007, 07:11 PM   #10
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it came like that from FEP so im not messing with it lol
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Old 05-09-2007, 04:51 AM   #11
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I've been searching all over the place and I cannot find anything that tells you where, exactly, to lube the LPR and HPR.
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Last edited by jhorgan : 05-09-2007 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:57 AM   #12
Uziel Gal
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In both instances, I would grease the adjustment screw (just to keep the adjustment nice and smooth), the outside of the main spring, and most importantly, the piston and piston o-ring.
__________________
It's just like a battle zone, you got a bottle and you're on your own.
Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze, none of those other weapons will faze me.

Hundred, hundred, hundred bottles on the wall, you wonder if you can drink them all.
Got to go home by 1am, the bottle wins the battle again.
Husker Du - "First of the last calls"
Back when I was popular
Supporting a friend:
HustlePaintball.com for Spyder paintball guns, Dye Markers, WDP Angel 1 and of course the Hustle Hotties.
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