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Old 07-04-2007, 02:57 PM   #1
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Installation Guide for Ion Upgrades

I thought I'd make this thread to help new or confused Ion owners looking for help installing such things as QEVs, detents, ASAs, and more.
PM if you have something to add.

I'm gonna be telling you to take apart your Ion during the installation guides,
click here to see how to , if you don't already know.

Installing a QEV QEV stands for quick exaust valve, it helps the Ion cycle faster, it allows you to lower your dwell which increases efficiency a tad and the QEV acts as a grease trap aswell. A great upgrade to have. It replaces the middle banjo in your Ion.

You will need: things to take part the Ion (1/8" allen key, screw driver), and teflon tape if you have leaks.

In the picture, I have elctrical tape on the hose because I like to be safe, but you don't need to put it on your hose/QEV.
1) Take apart your Ion, and take out the board and solonoid assembly
2) Now take off the middle banjo (the one on the smaller clear line) off the hose, you do this by pressing in the little rubber collar on the banjo and pulling it off the hose. It won't come off unless you press the little collar (towards the banjo).
3a) If you have something like an SP swivel QEV, then you need to press the barb into the hose. You might need to cut the hose a bit (be careful when cutting), if you cut too much then you should have a spare parts kit that came with your Ion. It will have spare hose inside. Though I suggest to try to not have to get the extra hose out.
4a) Some QEVs are like the stock banjo, if you have a QEV like this one then push the hose into the QEV. I'm not sure if you have to cut the hose with these.
5) Alright, your QEV is on (make sure its facing the right way). If you hear a leak then wrap some teflon tape around the QEV's threads. Also lower your dwell a bit, reffer to the Community thread on how to lower dwell and how much.

Regulator Aftermarket regs are good because they will improve your consistancy and some will look better. Though the stock Ion reg is actually pretty good, a reg shouldn't be yor first upgrade. They are very easy to put on, I shouldn't even need to put this but some people still don't know.

You will need: No tools really, unless you are installing a fitting, then you'll need a vice grip or an adjustable wrench. Also you will need an adjustment tool for the reg's output pressure (5/8" wrench for stock reg).

1) You need to take off your stock one, take out the macroline out of the fitting, and uncrew your stock reg. Put it away
2) Screw in your new reg (same place where the stock one was), attach a fitting to the hole where the macroline fitting is supposed to go.
3) Attach the macroline to the macroline fitting (you might need new macroline, depending on reg model). With some regs you can just attach the macroline to the bottom.
4) Make sure that your reg is turned down all the way (so not a whole lot of air will come in when you gas it up).
5) Screw in your air (or Co2 if you're using it) and gas it up, turn up the pressure to what ever you need it to.

I have a link that will show you how to attach macroline and stuff farther down the page, in "ASA's."

Installing a Bolt After market bolts help lower kick in your Ion, and can give you better effeciency (if you lower your dwell). Generally the lighter the bolt the better, but there are other things besides lightness that are important, like surface of bolt, face of bolt, and material.

1 peice boltsInstalling a one peice bolt isn't hard, it just replaces your stock bolt.

You will need: Stuff to take apart the Ion (1/8" allen key, screw driver), and lube (to lube the new bolt). You will need more things to install an L7, but its all shown in the L7 installation link.

1) Take out your stock bolt
2) lube up your new bolt
3) and put the new bolt in.
4) once you put it in, lower your dwell a bit. A new light bolt will cycle faster because of its reduced weight, so you shouldn't need as much air to use it.

2 peice bolts There are two, two peice bolts out right now. The TechT L7 and the Deadlywind Hollowpoint(or is it two peices, w/e its more then one peice).

I would normally type the instructions, but there are much better instructions on techT's site. L7 installation <- click
Lower your dwell once you have it in.

Again I don't have this bolt yet so I can't type the instructions, instead I will provide you with a link to instructions. HollowPoint Installation <- Click
Also lower the dwell once you have it in.

Reffer to the community thread for how to lower dwell, and how much you should lower your dwell.

Installing Detents Most people get aftermarket detents to just replace their worn out stock ones. Though good detents are important. The most popular ones are Kila detents. A good detent prevents double feeds and allows the bolt to shoot the paintball out without getting in the way.

Orange ADF detents

You will need: Stuff to take apart the Ion (1/8" allen key, screw driver), smaller screw driver to take out the stock detents, and lube.

1) Take apart your ion and get to the breech/firing chamber. Unscrew the breech from the firing chamber (the detents are attached to the breech).
2) You need to take out your stock rubber nub detents, I used a screwdriver and just tore them out (they were trash anyway).
3) now put in the delrin detent peice into one of the detent hole things. Lube the peices before you put them in, orange detents will jam sometimes without lube.
4) these detents come with 3 sets of springs (of various tensions). Pick out the right strength (I picked the very weakest because I have a vlocity). Then put the spring in (smaller side first, since the springs are like cones).
5) Now peel off one of the stickers the detents should have come with and put it over the detent hole to keep the detents/spring in. Do it right the first time so you don't have to peel off the the sticker. The stickers work very well though, don't think that they are very bad.

Kila Reaction Detents

Alright, well since I don't have kila detents, I went and found a guide from kila's site.
Here you go <- Click

ASAs ASA stands for Air Source Adapter, its where the tank is screwed into. Its good to get an aftermarket ASA, because the stock duckbill really sucks.

You will need: 1/8" allen key, and the tool to tighten the ASA to the rail (if you have a railmount ASA, and it depends on model for what tool). Though you need 3/32" allen key for the NDZ EZ turn on/off rail.

1) To remove the duckbill you need to just take out the macroline out of the fitting, then you unscrew the two screws at the bottom with 1/8 allen key.
2a) If you got an ASA with a rail then you need to screw the rail onto where the duckbill was.
2b) If you have a direct mount on/off ASA then you just screw the ASA on (where the duckbill was).
3a) (countinued from 2a) Now you slide the ASA onto the rail
4a) Now tighten the ASA onto the rail (it depends on the model for how to tighten it).

Then put in a new macroline fitting (if you need to, some come with a "built in" sort of fitting), and put in your macroline. If you have any questions about macroline and fittings, go here <- click

Installing a Feed neck Clamping feed necks are very useful, they make putting hoppers on and off really easy. A lot of people don't know how to install it, the main problem is getting the stock one off. Though I'll tell you how you can get it off real easy.

You will need: A hair dryer, stuff to take apart the Ion (1/8" allen key, screw driver), loc-tite, and muscle or a vice.

1) To get the stock feed neck off you need to heat up the feed neck with a blow dryer or something. You need to do this because the feed neck is on with loc-tite (thats why you normally can't just unscrew it). Heating it up will weaken the loc-tite.
2) While the feed neck is hot use some muscle and twist it off. Or you can use a padded vice.
3) Now that the stock feed neck is off you should put some loc-tite on your new feedneck (just a drop) of blue loc-tite (do you can remove it later if you want).

Countinued on next page...

Last edited by Zaunji : 07-16-2007 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Putting intructions for DW hollowpoint
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Old 07-04-2007, 02:58 PM   #2
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Installing a Trigger Replacing the stock trigger is great, the stock one is horrible (and plastic). You should get a hold of some, to see which shape is right for you. Some like the flat blade type (like the NDZ blade trigger I think), though some like scythe shapped triggers (like the critical RPM which is the best trigger IMO). Anyway its not too hard to put on.

Stuff you will need: A skinny thing, a hammer, and things to take apart the Ion (1/8" allen key, screw driver).

1) take apart your Ion so you only have the frame (with the trigger).
2) You need to get the bolt pin out, to do this you should get something skinny and a small hammer, then you should be able to hammer it out (not really sure how to explain this step, but hopefully you'll know what to do).
3) Take out the stock trigger
4) Put in you new trigger, then align the holes of the trigger hole and frame holes, then put your pin back in (put it in through the side with the guage). Also your trigger might have come with a new pin, like the critical pro pin that the critical RPM trigger comes with (you don't need to hammer critical pro pins).

If you have a critical RPM trigger you also need to put on the Capacitor Cap (the thing that has the magnet on it). If you didn't know, the RPM stands for "Reverse polarity magnets," which we're installing now.
1) Get out your board
2) Peel the things off the Capi Cap so the adhesive is bare.
3) Then put it on the capicator, so that the side that the magnet is closest to is facing straight down (towards the ASA if you had the board in). It it isn't facing straight down then the trigger won't work as well.

Putting on a new on/off sticker/button There is only one after market Ion on/off button, the virtue EZ on/off. Its pretty cool, and its a a lot better then the stock button.

You will need: Stuff to take apart your Ion (1/8" allen key, screw driver), a knife (maybe), and common sense.

1) Take off your stock button... just peel it off.
2) Take your virtue button and peel off the paper so that the adhesive is bare
3) Stick it onto where the old button was. Do it right and and align properly.
4) If when the battery is in the board light is red and stays red then you need to shave some of the button off (because the part inside the frame is too big and is constantly pressing the board button). To do this, just get a knife and cut some of the button off from the inside of the frame. Shave off a bit and then check wether its good or not (if its not then shave a tad more and repeat), you don't want to cut off too much. BE CAREFUL!

Other Quick tips from Zaunji!!!
~ Never tighten the banjo fittings too much (they are delicate and will break!)
~ Don't be an idiot, read the manual
~ The first time you are using a reg (or stock Ion), turn the reg down all the way. You don't know what it was set to at the factory.
~ Use HPA, Co2 is newby devil gas that will harm your noid
~ Only use Dow 33 lube in your Ion (SP Sl33k, shocker lube, and other dow 33 lubes)
~ If you're getting upgrades and want to know which color, get the color you want, not what other people want
~ NEVER wack your Ion with a hammer
~ If you're using Co2, GET an anti-siphon hose, it will save your noid
~ HP or LP HPA tank? HP, it will reduce chances of shootdown, though LP will work if its a good quality HPA tank (crossfire, macdev).
~ Don't do drugs

Like I said if you have anything to add, then PM or post here I guess.

I hope I helped.

I will be adding more guides...

Last edited by Zaunji : 07-06-2007 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 07-12-2007, 11:53 AM   #3
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how tight hsould my qev be?
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:17 PM   #4
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just tighten your QEV until it stops turning easily. It should be a pretty noticable stop in "turnability". dont overtighten it.
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Old 07-13-2007, 05:23 PM   #5
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A nice snug fit should do fine.

EDIT: Nice guide Zanji, this will help alot!
One Ion owner that used another kind of "Slick Honey" on his gun...
Originally Posted by vtpaintballer View Post
I used the honey from the bear container and mixed it with water to make it slick. Is that bad?
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Old 07-13-2007, 10:48 PM   #6
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ion baby woooooo

pm if interested and details
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Old 09-28-2007, 10:09 AM   #7
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why do you haveelctrical tape on the hose??
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:07 PM   #8
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One day I thought a minor leak was coming from there, so I put some tape there. Though it wasn't, and I forgot to take off the tape. I should have taken it off for the pic.
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:13 PM   #9
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O okay
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:55 AM   #10
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Hey what other smart parts guns does the ion have the barrel threads as?
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:55 AM   #11
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Please make only one post or thread per question - this is the third place you have asked this.

The ion uses the same thread as the Impulse. It is also the same thread used by the Ion XE, Vibe, EOS, Epiphany, Nerve, stock NXT Shocker, and some PL NXT Shockers.

When looking at barrel kits, they will describe the kit as being Impulse threaded, as all the other markers that use this thread came after the Impulse.
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Old 01-12-2008, 06:15 AM   #12
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Thanks a lot, I was wondering why the stock neck wouldn't come off!
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:01 PM   #13
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i'm really just being lazy because i forgot where my manual is but to take of the grip covering the reg do you just take the reg off and it slides off?
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:27 PM   #14
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can you put an out of the back or the xe body kit on the stock ion?
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:52 PM   #15
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Yes you can. There still should be a few B.O.B. bodies still on the market, i believe TechT, ShockTech, Deadly Wind, and Trinity all have bodies still available. Shouldn't be to hard to find B.O.B. bodies used either since people will sometimes part out to try and get more money when they're selling an Ion. SP makes a XE conversion kit that is the cheapest B.O.B. body made. It however personally looks like crap and still has plastic on it.
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:45 AM   #16
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haha tape; have it properly re-sealed by someone who knows what they're doing. very delicate stuff
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:56 PM   #17
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Ion & the TechT bolt

Hey all, need a hand getting my Ion to get a consistent chrono! got a TechT bolt, 360 QEV, Virtue OLED Board & CP reg. I match paint to barrel with a kit, running a "14" dwell, pressure is right around 180psi at the reg gauge and I'm still getting chrono swings of 20-25 fps! what am I doing wrong?
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:14 PM   #18
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Its really spoon feeding, thanks for your nice thread. Plz keep them update.
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