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Old 01-21-2008, 09:40 PM   #1
paintballmonkee
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How to: 98 Custom/Pro Response Trigger Installation

Disclaimerz:
- For folks with cyclone feed systems: this will cover most of what you will need to do, you just have an extra fitting and hose to hook up for the cyclone.
- Also, if you're not familiar with your guns internals, don't install this yourself. Please take your 98 to your shop/field and have them install it for you.
- I am in no way responsible for you screwing up your 98C if you fail at this.

Things needed:
-Allen wrenches: 5/32", 1/8"
-pliers
-hammer
-punch
-reamer or file
-your gun
-Response Trigger kit
~60 minutes of free time

Step 1: Remove the 5 receiver screws holding your gun together and disassemble your gun.

Step 2: Remove the power tube assembly from the right receiver.

Step 3: Take the velocity screw out of the power tube/valve assembly and place it in a safe spot.

Step 4: This is the hardest part, getting the valve assembly out of the power tube. The method I used is risky, because you can damage the valve's threads, so take it nice and easy. *If anyone has a better way of removing the valve assembly I will gladly add it to this.* Take the short end of an Allen wrench and stick it in the large, bottom hole of the valve assembly, pushing it toward the back of the power tube. When you get it far enough along, you can push the front end of the v.a. down with a wrench or screwdriver, see pic.


Step 5: Grab your new power tube, align the valve assembly so that the holes on both the power tube and valve assembly will match up. make sure you are putting the v.a. in the correct direction: valve pin towards the back of the power tube. Push the v.a. into the power tube until all of the screw/hose fittings match up. If you need to rotate the valve assembly, use the same method we did for removing it: stick an Allen wrench in a hole and gently move the valve assembly until everything is lined up, see pic. Go ahead and put your velocity screw back in the valve assembly at this time.


Step 6: Punching the hole in your right receiver. If you don't have access to a punch, use a drill with a 3/16" bit. I don't have a before/after shot since this was done at work, but its an easy process. Place your punch in the center of the knock-out disc (highlighted in the pic) and... knock it out.


Step 7: Test-fit the piston assembly in your grip and see if the hose fitting fits through the new hole. If it doesn't fit, file or ream the hole out until the hose fitting sits in there nice and snug. I chose to ream this hole a bit for a proper fit and nice clean look.


Step 8: Reassemble your gun, making sure to swap in the new sear spring and piston assembly. This new spring is pretty heavy duty, which means pain in the arse to get on the sear and pin, oh well. When you've made sure that the new sear spring is installed properly, completely assemble your gun, screwing in the 5 receiver screws.


Step 9: Take the air hose and screw in the silver 90 fitting to the piston's hose fitting. Use pliers and tighten the hex nut on the 90 fitting, don't try to tighten it down with the adjustment screw. Important: Do not over-tighten the fitting! Tighten enough so the fittings are snug and won't move during play.


Step 10: Use a flathead screwdriver to screw the black fitting into the power tube, again make sure not to over-tighten the screw.

Step 11: Gas up your gun and adjust the response trigger's speed to your liking by tightening (slower speed) or loosening (faster shooting) the adjustment screw on the silver fitting.

There you have it! Critiques welcomed.
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:52 PM   #2
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R/T on a pull-type sear... cool. I've been told that it won't work, and I've been told that there's no reason why it shouldn't. Care to settle the argument?
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corrupted355 View Post
R/T on a pull-type sear... cool. I've been told that it won't work, and I've been told that there's no reason why it shouldn't. Care to settle the argument?
Well I couldn't answer that question with any technical mumbo-jumbo, I am but a lowly community college freshman. But you can ask yourself the question, why would Tippmann design a mechanical trigger system upgrade that doesn't work with their mechanical trigger system? I haven't shot it yet, its 2AM, so I guess I don't know for sure that it works, but a buddy of mine had an R/T on his old 98 and it was dag nasty.
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:12 PM   #4
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The pull sear is the older style. The thinking against it working says that that the sear spring can't react quickly enough in that configuration to sustain the kind of cyclical rate that the R/T is capable of. Supposedly, that's why they came out with the push-sear.
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corrupted355 View Post
The pull sear is the older style. The thinking against it working says that that the sear spring can't react quickly enough in that configuration to sustain the kind of cyclical rate that the R/T is capable of. Supposedly, that's why they came out with the push-sear.
Good to know, I had been looking at my friend's late model 98C and wondered why they re-designed the sear. I'm not too worried about capping BPS or sustained rate of fire; when I want to fling paint I'll break out the Imp.
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:51 PM   #6
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what is the difference between a push or pull sear?
also I have the power tube that came with my cyclone feed. I don't need to replace it again right?
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Old 01-23-2008, 01:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corrupted355 View Post
The pull sear is the older style. The thinking against it working says that that the sear spring can't react quickly enough in that configuration to sustain the kind of cyclical rate that the R/T is capable of. Supposedly, that's why they came out with the push-sear.
since when did they say that the RT wasnt compatible with the old pull style? if you look at the frame of the pull style 98s it has a groove in there so the piston housing can sit in there nice and comfy, i was even thinking of upgrading my old semi-auto pull style to an RT and i hear this info that it supposedly doesnt work? blasphemy
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Old 01-23-2008, 01:44 PM   #8
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may I suggest someone post side by side pics for the 2 styles so we can all look at the differences
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Old 01-23-2008, 02:20 PM   #9
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i would, but unscrewing like 10 screws is a PITA, also my camera is MIA
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Old 01-23-2008, 02:31 PM   #10
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so thats who this camera belongs to
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Old 01-23-2008, 02:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT_Hawk View Post
may I suggest someone post side by side pics for the 2 styles so we can all look at the differences
Edit: See below post. Thanks Corrupted355!
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Last edited by paintballmonkee : 06-02-2010 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:23 PM   #12
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Pull sear:




Push sear:
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:17 PM   #13
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Problem with RT

Well, maybe somebody can help me with the problem I got with my RT after installing it. The moving piece in the RT cylinder that moves behind the trigger dosn't seem to be moving back into position after firing. It pops out, but not enough to make contact with the trigger. So I'm only getting single shots out of the marker.

This is the first RT I've worked with, so I don't know much about it. When I move the Adjuster all the way clockwise it gets difficult to pull the trigger, which I'm told means it's working. But I never get any more than single shots because the pin never makes contact with the trigger.

Any help anyone can give me is much appreciated.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankster3 View Post
what is the difference between a push or pull sear?
also I have the power tube that came with my cyclone feed. I don't need to replace it again right?
If you have the cyclone feed then you just have to install the R/T, and use a "T" to run both.
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by action_on_deck View Post
Well, maybe somebody can help me with the problem I got with my RT after installing it. The moving piece in the RT cylinder that moves behind the trigger dosn't seem to be moving back into position after firing. It pops out, but not enough to make contact with the trigger. So I'm only getting single shots out of the marker.

This is the first RT I've worked with, so I don't know much about it. When I move the Adjuster all the way clockwise it gets difficult to pull the trigger, which I'm told means it's working. But I never get any more than single shots because the pin never makes contact with the trigger.

Any help anyone can give me is much appreciated.
I had a simmilar problem with mine. Take the R/T plunger out of the tube and oil it really well,put it back in and tey sliding the plunger back and forth,if it slides easy then just reassemble the gun and adjust to for rate of fire.
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Old 06-11-2009, 11:41 PM   #16
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Holy old thread, Batman!

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