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Old 04-11-2011, 05:31 PM   #1
Paintball nube
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Question about Tippmann sierra one

Hey there, im braaaand spankin new to the hobby and just wanted some input on what might be a good gun to start with. I was told that the Sierra One was a very good cheaper gun to start with. Now, i noticed a lot of peoples guns on here arent the realistic looking guns. Are they not good for outdoor paintballing or anything like that?
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paintball nube View Post
Hey there, im braaaand spankin new to the hobby and just wanted some input on what might be a good gun to start with. I was told that the Sierra One was a very good cheaper gun to start with. Now, i noticed a lot of peoples guns on here arent the realistic looking guns. Are they not good for outdoor paintballing or anything like that?
It does not have to be realistic looking to be a good gun. It all depends on what you want. Tippmann guns are made for the most part to be built up into milsim guns. A lot of other guns out there, more so of electronic guns are made to look like space guns.

Generally, if your just starting out, Tippmanns are good to start with. Their cheap, built like tanks, run on Co2 or HPA, and last forever. Tippmanns can take a beating and keep on going, its a simple design, I've had my 98C for over a decade and its still a great gun. There are better performing guns out there (better air efficiency and what not) but they come at a higher cost. Not just in the gun cost either. Electronic guns also require the use of HPA and the tanks for those usually cost upwards off $200 where as guns that can use Co2, Co2 tanks cost upwards of $30. Electronic guns usually have out of the box, different trigger modes for high rates of fire and to keep up with high rates of fire, you usually spend more on paintballs and a force fed hopper to keep up with those higher rates of fire.


My question to you really is, what kind of performance do you want? What is the overall budget? Be prepared to spend around $60 for a mask as its one of the most important pieces of equipment. A fogged mask will ruin any ones day.
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98 Custom (old sear style) .
Folding adjustable stock ....
Expansion Chamber ...........
Barrel kit backs ................
Modified Apex tip ..............
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450 round hopper .............
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:58 AM   #3
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well i was looking to get this deal, with some upgrades, that would come to around 450ish. It says on sale for 240, but theres a spring sale and everything in the link will be on sale for 225.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:59 AM   #4
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sorry, cant link until my 5th post
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:02 AM   #5
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one more post till i can put up a link..
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:00 PM   #6
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im just looking for a solid marker that wont break down every game, easy to clean and take care of, thats able to upgrade. I was just looking at pictures from an outdoor paintball place and everyone had those shiny alien markers lol, so i thought maybe those were better for outside. So i was just curious as to if the sierra one could just hold its own in outdoor paintball.
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:04 PM   #7
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ok heres what im looking to get.


https://battlefieldpb.com/shop/index...&productId=588
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:15 PM   #8
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Generally, any gun can hold its own, it just how good the user is. If everyone is using the space guns, they are probably going to be using their modes to get fire that seems like full auto and that gun being a semi-auto will have a firepower disadvantage. That package is a little spendy at that price for what it includes, you could do better buying it separately and get better gear.

Tippmanns are great rugged guns requiring minimal maintenance and still shooting. They are the AK47's of paintball guns. If you can buy used, I recommend doing so (except for the mask) It will same you $$$ and you can afford more upgrades or paint.
__________________
98 Custom (old sear style) .
Folding adjustable stock ....
Expansion Chamber ...........
Barrel kit backs ................
Modified Apex tip ..............
Fully Upgraded Cyclone .....
450 round hopper .............
Super RT .......................
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluShift View Post
I'm tempted to add this to my signature....
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:09 AM   #9
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ive found a lot better deals online, but for shipping and handling, it would probably be another 40-60 or so.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:28 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Paintball nube View Post
ive found a lot better deals online, but for shipping and handling, it would probably be another 40-60 or so.
$40-$60 for shipping? Where are you located?
__________________
98 Custom (old sear style) .
Folding adjustable stock ....
Expansion Chamber ...........
Barrel kit backs ................
Modified Apex tip ..............
Fully Upgraded Cyclone .....
450 round hopper .............
Super RT .......................
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluShift View Post
I'm tempted to add this to my signature....
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:11 AM   #11
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in ontario near toronto. Anything i order that crosses the border seems to always be around 50 or more. BUT, i found a very slightly used tippmann x7 that i MIGHT get. used twice, no scratches, works fine, comes with a nice 80 dollar mask, nice air tank, has a few upgrades on it. All for 300
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:39 AM   #12
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Includes:
Tippmann X-7 with response trigger.
Collapsible stock.
Retractable bi pod for grip.
48 oz. air tank
JT Flex 8 Mask
PCS gloves

all that for $300.

or the sierra one package posted up above, plus upgraded tank, Bi-pod/grip, red dot scope, cyclone hopper upgrade with low profile hopper, and a rale raiser...for $410
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:11 PM   #13
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that may be a much better deal what kind of mask? what ups and extras? Tippys are tanks so if it looks in good shape more than likely it is in good shape. Very dependable markers. I dont use mine very often, my first marker , but everytime I get it out for fun it never lets me down. Very good choice for something dependable. (thats why 99% of fields use them for rentals)
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:29 AM   #14
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That's not a bad deal, those prices to ship to Canada are a bit high, I've never paid more than $33 or so. I do have a couple of Tippmanns with various mods of for sale if you want.
__________________
98 Custom (old sear style) .
Folding adjustable stock ....
Expansion Chamber ...........
Barrel kit backs ................
Modified Apex tip ..............
Fully Upgraded Cyclone .....
450 round hopper .............
Super RT .......................
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluShift View Post
I'm tempted to add this to my signature....
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:38 AM   #15
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hey there i actually ended up getting sierra one with some upgrades and its awesomeeee!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:32 PM   #16
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i want to get a 14 or 16" barrel, but they are sooooooo expensive. I noticed theres tons on ebay, but they are so cheap they cant be real. Has anyone bought one from ebay and have it actually work? lol
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:46 PM   #17
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I buy barrels all over, eBay, used, forums, stores, ect. A good barrel is more expensive. Accuracy has to do more with the paintball and a good paintball to barrel match. The best way to achieve this with barrel and different paints is a barrel kit.

My latest barrel that will go to my collection of them will be a Deadly Winds Fibur Barrel that uses Freak Inserts. Ordering the barrel with my Pre-ordered pump that should be here in less than an month it costs about $60 (special price, normally its like $90+) and on top of that you have to buy the freak inserts (about 8 of them total) and each sells from between $10-$15. I was fortunate enough to get a set of 8 with case for $52 shipped in good used condition.

Essentially, I got it all at amazing prices but even still it comes out to $112 just for a good barrel kit. The really good ones can be spendy.
__________________
98 Custom (old sear style) .
Folding adjustable stock ....
Expansion Chamber ...........
Barrel kit backs ................
Modified Apex tip ..............
Fully Upgraded Cyclone .....
450 round hopper .............
Super RT .......................
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluShift View Post
I'm tempted to add this to my signature....
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:52 PM   #18
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The best deal I ever got on a barrel kit with it's salt was on a WGP Kaner kit that I found on sale for $89 a few years back. But good luck finding a deal like that these days.
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:00 AM   #19
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alrighty guys another question or two. I just filled the tank for the first time and used the marker. i thought it was pretty accurate for close range, but further it was pretty terrible. Outdoor paint balling, unless the guy is like 15-20 meters away, hitting him would just be luck. Do barrels and high quality paintballs actually add that much more accuracy? I just have the stock barrel, and im using 1 star paintballs.
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:34 PM   #20
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Have a seat and get comfy. I have a few things to say on the subject of barrels.

You will see a minor improvement with an aftermarket barrel, but the difference will not be staggering. By far the largest impact on accuracy is the paint itself, but accuracy is still going to be pretty bad compared to any other ballistic device you may be used to. After all, you're shooting a large caliber liquid filled gelatin shell projectile. There is a reason modern firearm bullets are no longer spheres. A paintball is not aerodynamically sound, and even if it starts out perfectly round with no defects (which is a best-case scenario), the gelatin will deform in flight simply because of the hydraulic/pneumatic forces we use to propel it. We generally consider 50-75 feet (15-23 meters; sorry, but from here on out I'll be using SAE measurements) to be just about maximum range for typical accuracy. Given three rounds, I can usually hit a man-sized target at 75 feet. In most cases, if I shoot at someone farther than that, I'm just trying to keep their head down so that I or my teammates can move closer.

So yes, a barrel will help, but it won't give you miracles, and this is simply because of the inherent inaccuracy of paintballs. As I said earlier, the quality of the paint itself with regard to dimples, fill consistency, and seam deformation has the biggest impact on accuracy. The fewer the dimples and the smoother the seam, the better the accuracy. This kinda sucks when you've got to deal with a "field paint only" facility, but at least everyone has the same disadvantage.

In this game, paint size to barrel bore size match as well as the velocity consistency of the marker itself are the two big factors that you can control as far as accuracy is concerned. If you stay around in the forums long, you'll see people beat the "paint to bore match" thing to death. This is one of the things to consider when picking a barrel.

There are two schools of thought on paint to bore match: overboring and underboring. Tests have shown that neither has any accuracy advantage (see the Punkworks results here), but there are other differences. Interestingly, these same tests showed that perfect bore matching was actually a detriment to accuracy.

Overboring simply means that the barrel has a slightly larger inside diameter than the paintball. A paintball sitting in an overbored barrel will roll around freely, providing little to no resistance. You don't want a huge gap, just a couple thousandths of an inch; just enough so it rolls without getting stuck. If you have a closed bolt marker (ie: Autococker, pump marker, etc.) where the paintball sits at rest in barrel, overboring is usually a bad idea, as the ball can roll down the barrel before it's fired, causing inaccuracy. Additionally, overboring allows a small amount of air to pass by the paintball, which adds up to a noticeable but not severe difference over the course of an air fill.

On the other hand, underboring simply means that the barrel bore is slightly too small to accommodate the paintball. The reason this works is because paintballs are flexible. On a correct underbore, you can place a paintball into the breech end of the barrel, hold it vertically, and the ball will not move. However, the bore should not be so tight that you are unable to blow the paintball out of the barrel with lung power. Additionally, looking down the bore of an underbored barrel that has a paintball in it, you will see that the paintball is making contact with the barrel typically in three (occasionally four) locations. Unfortunately, because of how precise you need to be to underbore correctly, this usually requires the use of a barrel kit that comes with different sized bores. The advantage of underboring is that you don't get the blow-by that you do with overboring, and closed bolt markers will not experience roll outs.

Your Tippmann is an open bolt marker, and as such does not require underboring. Additionally, the valve system on your Sierra is not what we would call hyper-efficient anyway, so you won't miss any waste caused by overboring blow-by.

Typically you'll find that most tournament players overbore. The reasons behind this are the fact that most of them use open bolt markers, and because tournament paint is typically incredibly brittle, and there is less chance of breaking paint with an overbore. Mind you, a correct underbore usually won't break paint any more often than an overbore, but tournament thinking is that it's better to be safe than sorry.

As a recreation player with a myriad of both open bolt and closed bolt markers, I prefer to underbore where possible. Occasionally I will run into paint that is either smaller than my smallest bore, or it has tournament grade brittleness combined with poor shell quality (dimples, etc) that will force me to overbore.

If you choose to overbore (which is easier and requires less equipment), I recommend getting an accurate measurement of the type of paint you typically use, and order your barrel with an appropriate diameter. In an ideal overbore, you want 0.002" to 0.005" clearance. Try not to go too much more than that if you can help it. IIRC, the stock Tippmann barrel I have around here somewhere measured out at something like 0.695", whereas most paint lately is measuring in at 0.684" and below.

On another front, you'll want to consider barrel length. Punkworks has shown that under typical conditions barrels need to be at least 6" long in order to correctly guide a paintball to provide a stable flight trajectory, but usually an 8" barrel is preferred for minimum length. Additionally, any barrel longer than 14 inches is simply wasting air by having to push the paintball farther down the bore. The theory that adding more length will improve accuracy has been proven to be unfounded with paintballs. As a result, I always recommend a barrel length between 8 and 14 inches, with an acceptable allowance up to 16".

Finally, you may want to think about barrel porting. This has little effect on accuracy, but it has always been a big point of contention and confusion. In the old days when custom shops were everywhere, you were able to to choose whether or not you want porting (sometimes called venting) in the barrel, and occasionally they let you choose how much of it you wanted. Palmer's Pursuit Shop is really the only manufacturer left that still gives you the option to pay for different amounts of venting when you order their Brass barrel (which is one of my all-time favorite one-piece barrels), but you can still choose a barrel with the amount of porting it has in mind. Porting has two impacts: it decreases the sound volume of the shot at the cost of decreased gas efficiency. By dissipating some of the air used to fire the paintball through tiny holes in the side of the barrel before it exits the muzzle, the sound caused by the plane of the shockwave breaking the muzzle is lessened, but it costs you a little bit of extra gas to push the paintball past those ports. Tournament players typically love porting. I could take it or leave it; in fact, my own Palmer's Brass barrel has no porting at all.

A final thing I just thought of to consider is the number of pieces your barrel comes in. Don't be fooled: a two-piece barrel is not inherently more accurate than a one-piece barrel. In fact, it's been shown that the transition between pieces can actually detriment accuracy. The reason this myth came about is because your typical barrel kit comes as a two-piece barrel where the back section can either be replaced for different bore sizes or has different sized bore inserts. As such, the term "two-piece barrel" became associated with accuracy, which is not necessarily correct. In fact, if anyone made a barrel kit consisting entirely of a kit of one-piece barrels, I'd probably own it. The thing you have to be careful with in this one-piece/two-piece debate is that occasionally a manufacturer will make different grade barrels, and each different grade may have a different number of pieces. Custom Products (CP) is famous for this.

If you need anything explained further or have any more questions (or even to tell me that this wall of text is daunting and unnecessarily long), don't hesitate to post up.
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Last edited by Corrupted355 : 04-21-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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