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Old 10-08-2003, 06:56 AM   #21
bgredjeep
 
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And for the A-5 guys

I've posted this on a few other sites but I'll add it here as well. Here is how I setup my trigger.

1 - lighter trigger) I started by replacing the springs in the trigger. The front spring I used is a sping from a pilot G-2 pen, cut to lighten further. The rear spring is from a Bic disposable pencil. This lightened up the pull and the sear but I wanted it tighter as well.

2 - shorten the pre-fire pull) I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the trigger, and installed a 3mm grub screw to minimize the pull needed to actuate the trigger. This is a touchy opperation that will require some trial and error to get the screw adjusted just right. There is only a little change here but it helps IMO. *note* This will require some material to be shaved from the rear of the trigger to keep the safety available. (See pics)

3 - trigger stop) I used a driveshaft set screw from an old T-Maxx r/c truck I had parts from. I installed the screw in the front of the trigger through the center of the trigger spring. This is adjusted so that the trigger stops as soon as the gun fires instead on allowing extra travel after firing (as with stock). The screw needed to be trimmed about 1mm (2 mins w/ the dremel) and it is a great fit. This setup allows for quick adjustments to the trigger stop with an allen wrench.

4 - shorten sear travel) This step only requires a small drinking straw. I used a Caprisun straw in installed it over the pin that the sear rests on. This reduces the travel required for the sear to drop and release the bolt. It also let me tighten the pull on the trigger (from step 2) further.

This picture shows the changes from steps 2 (arrow A) and 3 (the screw on the right)


Here is the completed trigger (less step 4). Arrows B and D are from step 2. Arrow C shows where the drinking straw should be installed.


Here is the trigger group back in the grip. Again, this was before step 4. *NOTE* The rear grub screw needs to be filed down to flush. Otherwise it will contact the bolt and not always allow the trigger to set properly.


And the installed straw (step 4). Picture by Rambino from a5ownersgroup.com.


As stated earlier in this thread make sure you test all the changes with air in the gun. Mine worked great at the house but at the field I had trouble and needed some extra adjustments. Its all set now.

I'm also going to polish the rear of the sear where it contacts the bolt for smoother release.
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Old 10-08-2003, 06:28 PM   #22
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I polished the sear tonight and it definatly takes any gritty feel out of the trigger pull.

I used a polishing set that I have for my dremel. First I lightly smoothed the end and top of the sear where the hammer rests and slides across using a polishing stone bit. Once the small pits were removed and the top edge slightly rounded I used Mothers polish and a regular polishing bit. I cleaned the surface and applied a light coat of grease to both the polished surfaces, as well as the other contact points on the sear.

Here is a pic. Its a little hard to tell since this is after I applied the grease. The outlined area is what I polished. It was shining before I greased it.
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Old 01-22-2004, 07:07 PM   #23
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and here http://www.a5ownersgroup.com/forum/t...?TOPIC_ID=2979
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Old 01-22-2004, 08:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by wildbill2
When you talk about removing the trigger spring and safety to lighten up the trigger, do you leave them removed or replace them with something else? I have a R/T and wonder if it would be of any benefit to do any of these mods?
If you have an RT, you really dont have to lighten the trigger. The RT kit comes with a stronger sear spring that replaces the stock one. I did the pen spring mod that replaces the trigger spring. and also did a mod to the sear spring with rubber tubing cut to about .5 inches and wrapped around the sear to help quieten it a bit.

How well does the electric tape around the sear pin work for quietening? is it worth doing this mod if using a lapco bigshot, which is kinda loud anyway. I think it may only help w/ pinging, but that doesnt bother me anyway.
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Old 03-21-2004, 06:26 AM   #25
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i think i found a way to lighten the sear spring. i took the spring out of a stapler, but once its out of the stapler, it compresses down to the size of the regular sear spring. from little testing i've done, it seems to be much lighter. i'll will post updates once i gas up the gun and give it a test.
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Old 03-21-2004, 06:33 AM   #26
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not bad
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Old 03-21-2004, 06:46 AM   #27
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it does seem alot lighter, but that might be from replacing the trigger spring and removing the saftey, but when i cocked it, and shot, the pull was much lighter and it was quieter. but that might be because i have a cold and my ears are stuffed up.
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Rainmaker (in pieces) TBUS
Custom 98 (in pieces)
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Old 03-21-2004, 09:15 AM   #28
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didn't work. it kept double firing. so i put the regular spring back in.
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Gun setup:

Rainmaker (in pieces) TBUS
Custom 98 (in pieces)
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Old 05-09-2004, 03:43 PM   #29
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Would scotch tape work for these mods??
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Old 05-09-2004, 05:02 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by PB-Predater
Would scotch tape work for these mods??
Wrapping it around the pin? If so, yep.
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:18 PM   #31
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Better way?

I didnt like the idea of wrapping tape, it got really messy. So I took some small pin springs, and cut them so they were small. Then i slid them down onto the trigger and sear pins that were all talking about...It works great and its clean cut. Plus it holds up much better than tape.
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:52 PM   #32
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Sounds nice, maybe I should buy a tippy for a secondary and try this . . . or maybe ill keep the cocker for a secondary, and make this a 3rd, oh decisions decisions.
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Old 07-02-2004, 02:59 AM   #33
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I just finished doing this mod. My trigger pull is somewhere between 1-2 mm. Very nice mod. BTW, i used electrical tape. Will this work ok and last an ok amount of time?
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Old 07-02-2004, 06:10 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by pooptarts92
I just finished doing this mod. My trigger pull is somewhere between 1-2 mm. Very nice mod. BTW, i used electrical tape. Will this work ok and last an ok amount of time?
It will be fine.
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Old 07-02-2004, 07:33 AM   #35
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First, if your participating in any tournys, i would really recommend that you put trigger stops in instead of putting tape around the pin that the sear rests on, i would also recommend not using any mods to shortenn the sear travel time, if your gun goes full auto in a tourny not only are you going to be laughed at u will be thrown out of the game.

second, how long is this going to be open? i might have something to add in like 5 or 6 days, or could i just PM tonyy when the time is right?
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Old 07-17-2004, 04:15 PM   #36
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I did these mods with heat shrink wrap from radioshack and it makes it so that the sear and trigger slider *almost* touch when the gun is cocked and shortens the pre trigger pull and after shot pull significantly. TO make the pull shorter, a trigger stop could lessen it to close to a millimeter.
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Old 01-11-2005, 07:07 PM   #37
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I did not read this when I did it but I machind a new sear stop pin and sanded it down .003 of an inch until it just caught the bolt.

Also to shorten the pull before it fires you can put some epoxy on the trigger right above the spring so it sits closer to being fired because the gape from that part of the trigger to were it touches the valve is bigger.

I used a bic mechanical pencil spring because they are real weak.
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Old 01-12-2005, 01:17 PM   #38
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You don't know how old this thread is, huh?
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:31 PM   #39
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little note.

just alittle extra info for those working on the triggers...

I was looking for a cleaner install rather than tape. I tried 1/4 wire heat shrink. It's to big. It caused my marker to go full auto. I'm going to try 3/16 tomorrow. I'm out of that size.

interesting note... The 1/4 inch heat shrink fits perfectly and tightely into the larger hole for the trigger.

It is a very tight fit. First I pulled the pin out. You can see where the trigger rides on this pin. 2) I cut a pieces of heat shrink that fit that section 3) I held the pin with a pair of pilers and them slowly heated the heat shrink. 4) I let it cool down for about 45 seconds and them started slipping the trigger over the pin and heat shrink. This takes time. I did it twices. I honestly takes about 5 minutes. ( I'm not kidding) I also had to do this several times before It worked just right.

The result is a very tight fitting trigger. Only one catch it changes where the sear catches so you have to do the modefor the sear pin also.

I have no prefected this. I'm going to work on it more this weekend.

I like the heat shrink better than the tape because it's more durable.
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Old 07-29-2005, 07:47 AM   #40
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woah old thread.um i think you couldve posted this in 98 faq.
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