05-25-2003, 10:02 AM
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#41
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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What kind of barrel threads do black draguns take?
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05-25-2003, 01:13 PM
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#42
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Carolina
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spyder/pirahna, same thing
__________________
the line below is true
the line above is false 
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05-26-2003, 10:10 AM
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#43
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Does the m3 2003 compact have full auto?
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05-26-2003, 10:12 AM
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#44
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i like cheese
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: shack
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the LCD version does....
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05-26-2003, 07:43 PM
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#45
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My goal is to deny yours
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: At the rink in da pads (FL)
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The LCD compact is only semi up to 20bps and so is the bottomline. there is a upgrade chip you can buy that turns it into a full function marker. www.topnotchpaintball.com has them for 29.99. |
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05-29-2003, 11:04 AM
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#47
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My goal is to deny yours
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: At the rink in da pads (FL)
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That is the right board in the gun. The 2003 LCD is full function. You can make it semi only by removing the chip from the top of the board (by the power cables I believe).
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05-30-2003, 06:44 AM
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#49
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: temple
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barrel
will spyder barrels fit on these guns?
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06-06-2003, 06:15 PM
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#51
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My goal is to deny yours
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: At the rink in da pads (FL)
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FOR ALL YOU PEOPLE WITH SEAR PROBLEMS AND DOUBLE FEEDING PROBLEMS LOOK HERE:
I have the problem of my sear getting bumped loose from its setting, so next time I go play I'm going to elmers glue the sear adj. screw so it doesn't move and I won't put enough on for it to stay permanent, just so it stays in place.
I also saw another thing that could be a problem with lots of common problems that people have with double feeding, and burping problems. First thing, the ball detent is a ball bearing, and I was having some double feeding problems recently, so I decided to take apart my ball detent. The problem was caused by dried paint inside of the detent making the ball bearing stick to the back of the wall inside. The problem was solved by just getting a piece of wet paper towel and rolling the ball bearing around and wiping it down and then I oiled the inside by pushing the ball bearing in and applying oil and it worked like a charm.
Next thing is the sear,
When I took apart my trigger frame yesterday, I noticed that where the sear is connected to the frame (with the retaining pin), there is quite a bit of friction between the sear, frame, and pin. When I actuated the sear when the trigger frame was off the gun, I noticed a scraping sound and that the sear wasn't jumping back quickly enough to its proper recocking point where it catches the striker which obviously ment friction between the sear and the trigger frame. So some of you might want to take your sear out and sand the sides of the sear down where there might be friction and then oil it too. That might solve some recocking problems for some people. I am personally going to do this as soon as I can (next week) because I have a job, I have SATs and three hockey games tomorrow so I am quite busy. Another thing is that your sear spring might have no more bounce to it anymore so you might want to reconsider getting a new sear spring.
Hope this helps out a lot of people,
Dan
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06-08-2003, 08:03 PM
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#52
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Heritage, not hate
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pace,FL
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how do you get the detent out?
__________________
Black RJR, blade trigger, VooDoo bolt, TI pull pin, Dye sticky,3 tapeworm, 12 in Freak, halo, RAT hammer assembly, RIP valve, WAS/LPR on order
Quote:
Originally posted by Devastator
I will destroy you!!! *ding*After hotcakes you shall face your incipient mortality!!! Revenge may be a dish best served cold but hotcakes most certainly aren't, I will eat them now then you will suffer, you will ALL suffer!!!
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06-09-2003, 11:35 AM
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#53
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My goal is to deny yours
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: At the rink in da pads (FL)
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You simply get some pliers (I use the robogrip) and turn it to the left. It's really hard at first to get it out but you gotta use some muscle!
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06-19-2003, 12:20 PM
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#55
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My goal is to deny yours
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: At the rink in da pads (FL)
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Re: aluminum frames
Quote:
Originally posted by ryanlep
can the m3 frame be anolized or is it cast aluminum like the spyder frames?
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They CAN be annodized. You just have to get a good paint kit and clear coat. |
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06-19-2003, 02:20 PM
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#57
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My goal is to deny yours
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: At the rink in da pads (FL)
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You can send it in to a professional annodizer and it will come back however you want it.
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09-29-2003, 06:54 PM
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#58
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Spyder Tech/Owner
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Iron, MN
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Ok, I got one for ya guys! What all does it take to put a M3 Frame on a Spyder? And what all M3/Pi Frames are chrome, aluminum, LCD, and have all the modes up to 20bps, with a tourney lock? Thanks guys.
__________________
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11-23-2003, 06:10 PM
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#59
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Smurf Yourself
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Drop kicking puppies
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In the M92 frame on the TES, what is the difference between the "Semi" and "Auto" settings. They both fire once with each trigger pull as far as I can tell.
Also, is the TES Manual posted online anywere?
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