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Old 07-11-2002, 03:14 PM   #1
tonysk83
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The ultimate trigger job! (Revised)

I am in no way responsible if you mess up your gun.

Before I give you directions, i got my pull down to around 1.5 mm, it is so short, also a quick mod before you start replace you stock sear spring with braces rubber band, it will make your pull much lighter.

Step 1: Disassemble your m98.

step 2: Look at your back bolt you will notice that there is a spot for where the sear will catch the bolt, you want the sear to catch the bolt but barely catch it. You might want to let the sear to be barely holding on, but you dont want it like it alredy is. Next you will see four pins that hold the sear in place.

step 3: refer to pic
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Last edited by tonysk83 : 06-16-2003 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 07-11-2002, 03:16 PM   #2
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step 4: Now you got to get rid of that extra slack! There are two pins holding the trigger in. The one in the bigger hole is the one you need. Take it out and put one wrap of tape around it. That should get rid of all slack.

Step 5: Reassemble your tippy, gas it up and you are ready to go.

Other things I suggest you do are take out your trigger spring and safety, they will make this pull lighter.

If you have any more ? pm, email me, or im me, my email is tonyyyyyyyyyy8@yahoo.com my im is tonyyyyyyyyyy8
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Last edited by tonysk83 : 08-22-2003 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 07-11-2002, 09:08 PM   #3
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Update, i tweaked it even more, and i did another mod by putting typr around the pin closer to the sear that holds the trigger in, before it was 2 mm now it is just under 1 mm. Come on people try it it is so easy, if you have any questions you got my email or you can pm me, and i also have aim
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Old 07-12-2002, 10:24 AM   #4
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Heh, cool, I'm a guru! Never knew about that one. Anyways...

Tony's trigger info is already very good, so I'm just going to add in some extra little things to do to make it even faster and lighter.


Making Your Pull Lighter

Well, I believe Tony already mentioned the orthodontics rubber band as a replacement for the sear spring trick, so I won't talk about that. However, if you do do that, you might want to think about putting two rubber bands together. This way, if one somehow snaps (unlikely, but possible), your gun won't go full-auto on you and you won't have to take it apart to fix it. Okay, now that you've done that, your pull is already going to be substantially lighter. If you really want to add to that, do the old pen spring trick. *Note: this will take a few hours to do* Find a clicky pen with a wide spring (preferably, doesn't really matter). Take the spring out, and find something HEAVY (I used a paper weight that says "Lead, Follow, or Get the Hell Outta the Way", heh). Put the spring down on a flat surface, and put the heavy object on top, compressing down the coils. Wait about 4 hours, come back, and your spring should be smaller than the original. Now, snip it with wire cutters, pliers, whatever, so that there is about a half-centimeter of space between the notch in the trigger where the spring goes and the top of the spring. This should make the pull much lighter when coupled with the sear spring trick.

Making Your Pull Shorter/Snappier

Alright, there are a few things to do for this. You can make a trigger stop, but it will look crude and won't do anything but be ugly. For a very easy mod, simply take out your safety. The safety, I find, rubs against the trigger, so taking it out makes your pull faster. I recommend you get a barrel condom if you do this. Another good idea is to take out the trigger spring completely. This will make for a slightly faster ROF, and it's obviously very easy to do. To make your pull shorter, do the same thing you did in tony's mod with the tape on the pin, only add it to the pin that the the biggest hole on the trigger goes on as well. A good thing to make your pull shorter and a bit snappier is to do the exact opposite of the "squash pen spring" trick. You need to stretch it out quite a bit, then snip off all but about a quarter-centimeter from the trigger bulge to the top of the spring, like before. Doing any or all of this will result in great trigger feel, better speed, or a lighter trigger.

Thanks for letting me add all of this in, tony. I still think this should be a sticky.
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Old 07-13-2002, 02:14 PM   #5
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Question.

Hey i did the mod, but when i cock the gun and pull the trigger the gun starts shooting like it was a super fast fully auto gun, it does this when my hand isnt even on the trigger. Any help for my problem?
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Old 07-13-2002, 05:50 PM   #6
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you shortened it to much, take a little bit of the tape off
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Old 07-19-2002, 02:45 PM   #7
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if anyone wants to see video fo the new A-5 with a response trigger in action, go here:
Videos A-5 in action
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Old 07-22-2002, 02:05 PM   #8
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great idea tony, but i have to add something if you dont mind. all you people trying to do this its a great idea, but if you cant find an eraser, you can always use some tape. jus keep piling up the tape until it fits....hope you dont mind... if you do pm me and ill remove it
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Old 08-02-2002, 06:35 PM   #9
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this MOD's are awesome but for the lighting of the pull, instead of using something to weigh the spring down for hours, just cut the spring to the length of the spring in their already, it works great.
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Old 08-08-2002, 01:04 PM   #10
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WORX ON RT

this mod does and will work on RT's because the rt forces the trigger out really good... and it comes with a tighter sear spring as well... so as to make the trigger distance as light as it can without alot of modification. with the trigger mod u can get the RT to work at insane speeds. if u have it at high flow it outfeeds my 12v revvy.
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Old 09-03-2002, 05:40 PM   #11
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yep, your trigger job does the same as mine just in a different way... and on a regular m98.

instead of putting tape on the sear pin, i sanded down the part of the rear bolt where the sear catches. (the right side of the space). then i polished the rear bolt, making the pull lighter and less friction.

next i put tape around the saftey to shorten the pull even more. then put tape around the pin in which the trigger pivots on.

then i put a replaced a spring with a lighter spring (stretched, but not too much).

my trigger pull is around 1.4 mm long.

i did all of this a year ago.

however i mine is more perminant which may be a good thing or a bad thing.
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Old 09-19-2002, 04:00 PM   #12
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Cool

Hey some great ideas. The only thing i may improce on is to use alluminum tubeing to cover your pin rather than tape. I used a telescopic radio antenae. The third smallest fit perfectly over the pin.

Thanks for the tipp.

Later
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Old 09-23-2002, 06:23 PM   #13
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Yes, the antenna is a great idea, also if an antenna is not readily available to you, try a few springs, if you can find one with the right inside diameter as well as wire thickness it works very well also. It does not really have to be the exact ID of the pin, just close. I tried the stock trigger return spring but it had too thick wire. Try around, i found a very nice one that fits well and shortens the pull consiterably but not allowing the full auto side effects of too much. I use metal only because electrical tape tends to deform after time. just my opinion but sure works.

Another thing. a double trigger really adds to this mod. a pull of 1.5mm with a double trigger is about perfect for me. Great mod, so easy to do.
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Old 09-25-2002, 05:32 PM   #14
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shrink wrap works good
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Old 12-29-2002, 06:26 PM   #15
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If anyone is interested in magnetic triggers, I have a few pics of mine on my website (not really a website but it has pictures). Check it out...
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Old 01-13-2003, 12:24 AM   #16
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Hey, in case anyone is wondering I did this to my A-5 /w Response Trigger.
Worked like a charm.---lightened trigger pull---no slop---even makes response better---love it!!!

P.S. Internals are a little different but with a little study you can figure out what goes where
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:02 AM   #17
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Spamming time...
If any of you are interested I updated my trigger mod page...
enjoy http://mywebpages.comcast.net/escross/trigger.html
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Old 04-18-2003, 07:01 PM   #18
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ooo, i took this mod off for a long time, and just re-did it but used electronic shrink wrap, IT IS AWESOME, it works much better then tape, you can buy it at any radio shack for very vyer cheap(2 bucks)
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Old 04-30-2003, 08:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by chomp141
wait wait, what would u use the shrink wrap for? is it for the tape around the pin the sear rests on? does it really make a diff?
yea, it doesnt gum up like tape and makes the job look much cleaner...
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Old 08-01-2003, 02:32 AM   #20
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Another satisfied customer. I pulled out my trigger spring, saftey, and put some tape on the sear stopping pin. Haven't had a chance to test fire or tweak it yet but I can tell it is way shorter but can still take a bit of a bump on the back of the marker without releasing the bolt.

If you don't mind me adding; while you're in there, I would suggest taking off that ugly bolt handle cap and using the textured metal one like the Tippmann Effect does. Also pull the drive spring and spring guide out of the bolt so you can take the bolt handle out, put a couple layers of clear tape on it to get rid of the play, and cut out where the holes are with a modeling knife or razor blade. Replace and enjoy a quieter rear bolt assembly.

I'm thinking about polishing where the rear bolt and linkage arm slides. Is it really necessary to polish the entire inside of the reciever halves?

Thanks.

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Last edited by PSYCHO+LOGICAL : 08-01-2003 at 11:40 PM.
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