I am in no way responsible if you mess up your gun.
Before I give you directions, i got my pull down to around 1.5 mm, it is so short, also a quick mod before you start replace you stock sear spring with braces rubber band, it will make your pull much lighter.
Step 1: Disassemble your m98.
step 2: Look at your back bolt you will notice that there is a spot for where the sear will catch the bolt, you want the sear to catch the bolt but barely catch it. You might want to let the sear to be barely holding on, but you dont want it like it alredy is. Next you will see four pins that hold the sear in place.
step 4: Now you got to get rid of that extra slack! There are two pins holding the trigger in. The one in the bigger hole is the one you need. Take it out and put one wrap of tape around it. That should get rid of all slack.
Step 5: Reassemble your tippy, gas it up and you are ready to go.
Other things I suggest you do are take out your trigger spring and safety, they will make this pull lighter.
Update, i tweaked it even more, and i did another mod by putting typr around the pin closer to the sear that holds the trigger in, before it was 2 mm now it is just under 1 mm. Come on people try it it is so easy, if you have any questions you got my email or you can pm me, and i also have aim
The few, the proud, the pbr snipers.
Heh, cool, I'm a guru! Never knew about that one. Anyways...
Tony's trigger info is already very good, so I'm just going to add in some extra little things to do to make it even faster and lighter.
Making Your Pull Lighter
Well, I believe Tony already mentioned the orthodontics rubber band as a replacement for the sear spring trick, so I won't talk about that. However, if you do do that, you might want to think about putting two rubber bands together. This way, if one somehow snaps (unlikely, but possible), your gun won't go full-auto on you and you won't have to take it apart to fix it. Okay, now that you've done that, your pull is already going to be substantially lighter. If you really want to add to that, do the old pen spring trick. *Note: this will take a few hours to do* Find a clicky pen with a wide spring (preferably, doesn't really matter). Take the spring out, and find something HEAVY (I used a paper weight that says "Lead, Follow, or Get the Hell Outta the Way", heh). Put the spring down on a flat surface, and put the heavy object on top, compressing down the coils. Wait about 4 hours, come back, and your spring should be smaller than the original. Now, snip it with wire cutters, pliers, whatever, so that there is about a half-centimeter of space between the notch in the trigger where the spring goes and the top of the spring. This should make the pull much lighter when coupled with the sear spring trick.
Making Your Pull Shorter/Snappier
Alright, there are a few things to do for this. You can make a trigger stop, but it will look crude and won't do anything but be ugly. For a very easy mod, simply take out your safety. The safety, I find, rubs against the trigger, so taking it out makes your pull faster. I recommend you get a barrel condom if you do this. Another good idea is to take out the trigger spring completely. This will make for a slightly faster ROF, and it's obviously very easy to do. To make your pull shorter, do the same thing you did in tony's mod with the tape on the pin, only add it to the pin that the the biggest hole on the trigger goes on as well. A good thing to make your pull shorter and a bit snappier is to do the exact opposite of the "squash pen spring" trick. You need to stretch it out quite a bit, then snip off all but about a quarter-centimeter from the trigger bulge to the top of the spring, like before. Doing any or all of this will result in great trigger feel, better speed, or a lighter trigger.
Thanks for letting me add all of this in, tony. I still think this should be a sticky.
Hey i did the mod, but when i cock the gun and pull the trigger the gun starts shooting like it was a super fast fully auto gun, it does this when my hand isnt even on the trigger. Any help for my problem?
great idea tony, but i have to add something if you dont mind. all you people trying to do this its a great idea, but if you cant find an eraser, you can always use some tape. jus keep piling up the tape until it fits....hope you dont mind... if you do pm me and ill remove it
m98 custom nothign stock for sale.. pm me if your interested
I didnt know running into the wall would hurt as much as it did. But here i am, laying in a pile of my own blood in a coma, hoping that my faithful penguin sends for help. Last time this happened the penguin just called me a *****, took my shoes, and went to see "jay and silent bob." To this day i still dont know if he liked it, and whenever i ask he just calls me a slut and throws ice cubes at me!
this MOD's are awesome but for the lighting of the pull, instead of using something to weigh the spring down for hours, just cut the spring to the length of the spring in their already, it works great.
Tippman Model 98 Custom Silver w/20 oz CO2
Lapco BigShot Aluminum 12" barrel
Toxic Double Trigger w/ custom trigger jobs
PMI Perfect Drop Forward
this mod does and will work on RT's because the rt forces the trigger out really good... and it comes with a tighter sear spring as well... so as to make the trigger distance as light as it can without alot of modification. with the trigger mod u can get the RT to work at insane speeds. if u have it at high flow it outfeeds my 12v revvy.
yep, your trigger job does the same as mine just in a different way... and on a regular m98.
instead of putting tape on the sear pin, i sanded down the part of the rear bolt where the sear catches. (the right side of the space). then i polished the rear bolt, making the pull lighter and less friction.
next i put tape around the saftey to shorten the pull even more. then put tape around the pin in which the trigger pivots on.
then i put a replaced a spring with a lighter spring (stretched, but not too much).
my trigger pull is around 1.4 mm long.
i did all of this a year ago.
however i mine is more perminant which may be a good thing or a bad thing.
Yes, the antenna is a great idea, also if an antenna is not readily available to you, try a few springs, if you can find one with the right inside diameter as well as wire thickness it works very well also. It does not really have to be the exact ID of the pin, just close. I tried the stock trigger return spring but it had too thick wire. Try around, i found a very nice one that fits well and shortens the pull consiterably but not allowing the full auto side effects of too much. I use metal only because electrical tape tends to deform after time. just my opinion but sure works.
Another thing. a double trigger really adds to this mod. a pull of 1.5mm with a double trigger is about perfect for me. Great mod, so easy to do.
ooo, i took this mod off for a long time, and just re-did it but used electronic shrink wrap, IT IS AWESOME, it works much better then tape, you can buy it at any radio shack for very vyer cheap(2 bucks)
The few, the proud, the pbr snipers.
Another satisfied customer. I pulled out my trigger spring, saftey, and put some tape on the sear stopping pin. Haven't had a chance to test fire or tweak it yet but I can tell it is way shorter but can still take a bit of a bump on the back of the marker without releasing the bolt.
If you don't mind me adding; while you're in there, I would suggest taking off that ugly bolt handle cap and using the textured metal one like the Tippmann Effect does. Also pull the drive spring and spring guide out of the bolt so you can take the bolt handle out, put a couple layers of clear tape on it to get rid of the play, and cut out where the holes are with a modeling knife or razor blade. Replace and enjoy a quieter rear bolt assembly.
I'm thinking about polishing where the rear bolt and linkage arm slides. Is it really necessary to polish the entire inside of the reciever halves?
Last edited by PSYCHO+LOGICAL : 08-01-2003 at 11:40 PM.