stock shutter rear cocking, stock c2k side cocking, and millenium top cocking
bob long millenium in peices, and pretty much in between guns gettin an e99 really soon
eliminates the stupid beavertail on a shutter that ends up cutting my fingernails and is also really simple to take apart
it comes w/ a screw that needs replacing in order to use w/ a stock bolt. just take it and your bolt to the hardware store to get a new screw for it and smooth off the upper threading.
its a great product, but somehow, i dont know how, but they have managed to scare away more customers because of a stupid little thing like a screw than has kingman by making some things like the vert feeds of some spyders unable to use aftermarket products. also kingman has managed to have the nicest sight rail on the market(stock xtra) but it is only compatible with the xtra and maybe the em1. go kingman!
Machining on the interior rods was _very_ rough: you can hear it scraping back and forth.
I tried to sand it down a bit, but it will require further buffing.
Spring was too long for bolt to cock, so I cut one loop off and it worked. As the other review mentioned, perhaps I could have threaded it deeper to accomplish the same thing.
After 3 short woods games, bolt failed to cock and Slideder was binding up. Upon disassembly I found a burr had developed on one of the rods, causing it to bind inside the main body of the Slideder, which was bored out roughly not unlike the rods.
This will take some good grinding to get the burr down.
In terms of 'no movement outside the gun' - this was not true in my case. With each shot, the back of the Slideder jumps out a little bit.
Now, this could very well be due to the fact that I cut a loop off the spring, so the cocking knob is not held inside under as much tension. So I will give them the benefit of the doubt on this until I can try a stronger spring. It is a light pressure so it won't crack your mask.
NW Paintball Supply went out of business and recently (early '05 maybe?) sold their remaining inventory, so hopefully whoever bought that lot of many Slideder's can clean them up a little bit.
It's a good product, and deserves wider usage. Maybe a more advanced factory can pick it up and work the kinks out.
Or, maybe I got a lemon. ;)
internal rod continues to bind - the head gets rounded as it hits the main Slideder housing during recocking, and so it binds on the rough channel.
Since the rod is aluminum not steel, this will continue to happen because it's so soft.
Two recommendations from friends I will try:
- use lapping compound and move the parts back and forth by hand to gradually buff out the channel
- epoxy a washer to the inside rear of the housing, so as to provide greater impact surface area for the inner rod, hopefully to lessen the rounding effect.
Review downgraded to a 4 due to these continuing problems.
Fixed the binding problem with valve compound and dremeling the recess where the OEM cocking handle attaches ... the circular surface of the Slideder rod was impacting the rectangular 'lip' of the rear face of the bolt and becoming deformed with each hit, causing it to bind.
The set screw for the actual handle (the thing you pull on to cock it) came loose and I lost the handle on the field. I can still cock it with my finger nail, working the internal rod out the back enough to grab it, and then the air keeps it cocked.
The rod that attached to the bolt came unscrewed. I'll use loc-tite next time.
I think it's worth twenty bucks or so if you hate beaver tails/bogus sight rails. But be prepared to spend time tinkering with it.
4 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, November 1st, 2005 at 8:28 am PST
No more beavertail
Fully encloses marker body; no more possible dirt in gun
Internal cocking rod's threading is bad
The threading on the internal cocking rod that screws into the back of the bolt was threaded poorly. The thread isnt deep enough, so theres too much friction when screwing in. I screws in about half way, and then it gets stuck. It has to screw in deeper because that half of a centimeter difference wont let the sear grab the stricker. I had to take a vice wrench and clamp down on the rod, and another wrench and lightly grab the bolt (carefull not to damage the bolt) and twist the remaining of the thread into the bolt. Its stuck on very tight now. The threads are supposed to use lock tite, but tie so tightly screwed it, I doubt lock tite would be necessary.
I might later consider opening up the slideder and polishing the rod so it would slide smoother.
Also, It would have been nice if it came in glossy black vs flat black... it would have matched my Flash better... but its no biggy.
Its a great product. I was told that this used to be on older spyders, but was discontinued and replaced with the cocking styles we have today. If this is true, Kingman should have kept it. No more flimsy beavertail, or sharp beavertails that would cut you up. You wont need to screw and unscrew the cocking rod, so once you get it in, you're set... so its just a one time hassle deal. I'm giving it a 9 because of the extra hassle of the threading.