This marker was produced in two major versions; the original P68 and the P68 Auto Trigger. There were both Stock Class and Direct Feed versions of each.
The auto trigger version has an auto trigger, a direct feed neck, and allows for constant air.
The stock class version uses 12 gram CO2, its magazine holds 15 rounds.
They are both closed bolt.
The Sheridan P68 is older, so while it may be available used and in a few cases new, it is not commonly available anymore.
Sheridan PGP (short pistol variant of P68SC), ZGP-94 (Czech PGP clone),
Sheridan PGP2001 (newer PGP version with longer barrel and some other mods), Sterling Bronze and Kingmann New Hammer in classic C/A just like as in Stock Class setup
Locking of grips together with black electrician tape
Locking feed tube cap to pump rod with whipcord
Polished internals & barrel honing
Removing the tournament velocity adjuster and sealing the bolt
Lightened (15g) hammer, little valve work & new spring combo for better efficency
Silencer or "muzzle break" (not only for silencing but but also for barell chase protection)
Accuracy & range
Well made & durable
Low profile & compactness
Cool look & feeling
Bad CO2 efficency out of box
No ball detent
If you are interested in the Stock class, then this is something what you should regard. P68SC is a classic, old shool, stock class marker. It has nail accuracy and range, cool look, silent shots and the feeling of a shotgun. It is really pleasure to play with. He shoots nail out of the box and after some little homemade tinkering work, without expensive mods and accessories it can be daringly ranked among the best stock class markers.
It is basically old Sheridan PGP pistol modified for long range shooting - with longer barrel, new centerfire bolt, quickstrip, oversized CO2 change knob, five ball larger magazine capacity, longer axis of sighting...
The performance on long-range is really long way better than in PGP. This gun is able
to get high velocities more easily, has range of best C/A guns, shoots with flat trajectory, extremely silent and accurate. The CO2 efficiency however doesn't look to be as good as PGP - with stock P68SC first ten shoots are better than stock PGP, but the next are comonly worse (You can expect only 18 usable shots from stock P68SC in compare to 30 of stock PGP, but 8 of them are really great (above 255 fps)).
So, stock P68SC definitely needs some performance tune. Because I live in Europe, I'm not able to send my P68SC to Palmer, Punisher or other, well known Sheridan masters, I had to make this work by myself. If you decide to do the same, I sugest going through these mods:
Bolt sealing: there are MAJOR leaks trought the tournament velocity adjuster placed in centerfire bolt - after sealing the bolt, the velocity of my P68SC in his first 13 shoots increased on average by 45 fps!!!. Substitute the velocity adjuster screw with standart set screw (it is 5/16 UNF lenght 1/2"), seal them in threads with teflon tape (or better with some Loclite sealing compound) and use some tin soldering for enclosure of the old holes for removed pin and balls underneath the rear o-ring.
Barrel honing: with this mod you reduce friction in barrel - the black paint overspray must go down into sweet gold miror finish (trust me - you'll come to love in brass after that). Buy fine grinding paste for brass and aluminium, some thin-bodied oil and use wood stick with piece of cloth as lap.
Valve work: you need to boost the valve air flow for better efficiency. Shaved cup seal stem in the middle (to 3mm) will help, but you also need to enlarge the holes in stock valve body (central opening to 6.5mm, four holes to 5.5mm, round the channel bottom into R3) or better (here wil be really big difference), manufacture new valve body with only one big (eliptical 6,2x7mm) opening on diameter, shaped to opening in barrel chamber (see how the late Autococker valve looks).
Lightening the stock hammer: eliminates bouncing and will help with accelerating opening/closing of the valve (that will nearly remove the intermediate positions). From stock 43g you can go to (little) less than 15g! The hammer is manufactured from very well hardened stainless steel, so you must grind it away (in middle part). You can even use a common drill press with small grinding wheel.
Other valve/hammer spring combo: not only to compensate the preceding hammer lightening, but for the next performance enthancements - helps with efficiency and sound reduction trought accelerating opening/closing of the valve. The Spyder springs goes good in P68SC valve, the main spring you can toughen up by preloading it (best is to buy aftermarket PGP velocity adjuster).
So, because I have performed exactly that, I'm quite sure that after some homemade tinkering in this style, you can expect 18 really GREAT (285-260 fps) and (likewise really) SILENT shots and other 15 short-shots (above 220 fps) as reserve from one twelve gram - not best in compare to known stayers like Phantom or Carter, but good enought and with such (compact, accurate and silent) marker it should be really enough.
...and with really thoroughgoing tune (after spendig many hours, shooting hunderts of paintballs and tenths of powerlets), you can get even nearly the same efficiency as has Glen Palmer Superstocker (30 shoots above 260 fps - mine is already in this condition) - the only one fundamental advantage of Superstocker above P68SC whitch is not easy to fix is that he has vertical placed powerlet which is better for gas/liquid CO2 separation.
Results of my accuracy test:
P68SC after the light homemade tuning whitch was described above, using RPS Marbalizers, muzzle velocity in first shots set to ~280 fps. Diversion of first 16 shoots below 90mm (3,5 inch) circumscribed circle on 16m (50 feet) distance... and because the gun has no stock, im pretty sure that the major part of the inaccuracy is caused by the shooter (me).
P68SC preserves low profile of his predecessor (all what will opponent see is 3 tubes and a mask) but has better ergonomics due to the longer foregrip (that is pleasing especialy along with guns tuned to be efficient (which have typically hard pump stroke due strong valve/hammer springs)) and axis of sighting.
The stock plastic grips are the same as PGP, a little weak and tend to crack especialy in cold, but if they are broken, you can easy glue them.
Barrel is non-removable (integral), manufactured from first-class brass. Is describet as 14 1/4" long but in reallity he is only 12" long (real barrel lenght after subtraction of the bolt lenght). After honing looks really phenomenal... but you can have little problem when is damaged... and all that brass around makes P68SC a little heavy... but you will learn to deal with it and use it as advantage while aiming.
P68SC has good feeding (does not break balls, no double feeding even without detents) and the same problems with some modern, small-bore paint (what sometimes rolls out the barrel) like PGP - you need to find your paint - I sugest RPS Marbalizers - or get wedgits or solder-in small block on outsite diameter and fit the autococker detent.
There are two variants of P68SC - one (pre '96) with old style valve and second (post '96) with new "carriage valve". The new valve already has only one opening on diameter (witch were mentioned above in case of performance tune - what is a lot better for efficiency) and needs not special tools to be removed. The old style valve can be removed only with special Sheridan valve tool (5/16 inch key), and his valve body with four openings and channel on the diameter is not so efficient, but he has little better potential for performance tuning (central diameter in the valve body can be little larger here). I like the old style valve better, because they allow more alterations, but on other side, I think that the new style valve was good improvement because the marker in stock condition is more efficient with them and his manufacturing is easier (not so much work with the bottom pipe and with mounting) that the old style.
The main "weakness" of this gun is the same as with other stock class markers - limited capacity and expensiveness of CO2 (powerlets). But with such a marker shall be little shots enough, and then, you spend only a little money on paint, so costs will not be the problem... or you could swith to C/A, remote or integral refillable (bleed-fill) tank.
As with all Stock class markers, even with P68SC you need some practice for effective use (rock n' cock, limited paint and gas), but than... it shoots straight and far, silent, is compact and with the adrenaline during a firefight you can get up to 2 aimed shots per second. It is a good weapon for mobile, sneak, smart, accurate play.
Stock class Phantoms, Carters, Worr/WGP Snipers should be today considered as better, but with good treatment, this old beauty still remains extremely dangerous... and costs less. It is a perfect marker for that price and one of the best arround. With fresh CO2 it is the perfect sharpshooter gun - extremly accurate, with very good range, silent shots, low profile and relatively small size. It has comonly bad efficiency out of the box, but after some homemade tinkering (which costs you nearly nothing except some time and work) it is at least tolerable. So, if you are interested in this style of play and you can find one, get one. It is really a pleasure to play with this old piece of brass... and stalk semis with her :-).
I give "only" 9 because PPS Superstocker is simply better (but it is not palmerized P68SC?) and the SC nelsons have a better efficiency.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, March 5th, 2008 at 12:54 pm PST
[*]Easier to take aim
[*]5 balls less capacity
I felt the accuracy between a PGP and my P68 was nearly identical. I favored the PGP more due to the reasons provided.
CCI Phantom SC
[*]Lighter pump action
[*]c02 is MUCH quicker to change
Between, the Phantom and the P68 I preffered the Phantom more. I had owned a Phantom in the past but became disillusioned with stock class play and decided to sell it. A choice I always came to regret.
[*]AGD ReTro Valve
[*]AGD Flatline 68ci/3000 tank
[*]black AGD powerfeed right body
[*]black AGD body rail
[*]black AGD Warpfeed
[*]black AGD Intelliframe w/blade trigger linked to 12v Revy
[*]black 12v Revy
[*]black DYE stickies
[*]black Lapco Bigshot 14" barrel
[*]black KAPP non-gas through foregrip
[*]TASO rear velocity adjuster
[*]Polished brass body
[*]Spring loaded magazine (work in progress)
Rear velocity adjuster
[*]Durability, the body is constructed from brass and offers solid protection against harsh conditions.
[*]Internal magazine incased in brass cylinder, provides added protection against magazine hits that would otherwise break the balls inside.
[*]Integral barrel provides a satisfactory level of accuracy.
[*]Ease in dissasembly.
[*]Heavy, this gun is what I consider heavy for a stock gun.
[*]Pump action could be smoother.
[*]Grips could have been better.
[*]Magazine tube plug could have been designed to prevent loss.
[*]Velocity adjustment definitely needs to be modified.
The pro's and con's on my review of the Sheridan P68 is based on the original unmodified version of the Sheridan P68.
The weight of the gun doesn't ruin the experience for me, however, weight is a critical issue to some people, so I just wanted to lay it out for prospective buyers to see.
The pump action isn't neccessarily bad, but after trying a CCI Phantom your opinion may change.
The grips are not terrible for a marker that is built to be within this budget range. I have no qualms about the comfort but I won't deny that they aren't cheap grips. I am satisfied with the feel of the grips so that is the bottom line.
The plug at the end of the magazine is very small and could be lost very easily. Some sort of method to keep the tube plug attached between reloads would result in having one less object in your hand during a reload.
Velocity adjustment should have came factory equipped with the rear velocity adjuster setup.
Although this gun is obsolete as far as stock guns go, this gun still appeals to my tastes and I will continue to use it.
My pump markers: P68SC (exactly like the one pictured), Trracer pump w/ aftermarket barrel, and Coming soon Pink Phantom VSC w/ the works
Semi: Just bought a beat around JT accelerator for kicks
none, unless your willing to pay alot to have a custom shop work on it.
Pretty efficient (roughly 30+ balls per 12g)
Heavy for size (its all brass)
No velocity adjuster stock
Ok, from the top, I bought this gun brand new about six months ago when i stumbled across one in a sporting goods store. Knowing that these were rare and special guns, i grabbed it quickly. I paid $100 for it, and can safely say i could sell it for a bit more then that due to its rarity.
How it works: On the field it shoots amazing. Its got a definately different feel to it then most guns. I love how it shoots, super straight and long, one of the longest ive seen. When i first got it, it had no velocity adjuster (Problem fixed w/ a screw in the back), so it was only shooting like 220ish, which is rediculously low. I still managed to get almost the same range as most people who's guns were turned up to the field legal 290fps. After fixing the velocity w/ my screw, It pumped it up to 310fps. Amazing gun to shoot!!!
Weakness: Heavy, but you learn to deal w/ it. The paint is a problem, b/c it comes off way to easily. I am solving this by sending it to get powdercoated.
If you thinking about going pump or trying out stock class, this gun, if you can find one, will help make it fun and exciting. This changed my mind about SC and since I have almost completely changed over to pump/SC markers. Its also fun to go to the field and have everyone look at you like "wtf is that gun" then start wispering "he uses a pump, watch out for him or he'll get ya." And I have many of times :). If you have the love for pump, then P68 is the way to go!
10 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, September 25th, 2004 at 11:36 am PST
Sheridan wise I own: PMI-I SC, PMI-II, PMI-I DF, PGP, PG, PGP2k1, KP-3, KP-2, Pursuit pistol, P-12, Piranah LB, CC Enforcer, and Piranha SB. Have yet to try the k-2, P-68 AT, or the 68 magnum.
Either a P-68, Enforcer, kp-2, kp-3, or a Sam Tussing PGP.
Battel grips and trigger shoe. If your going for looks nickle plate it.
Accuracy, weight, SC legal, Fasst changer, easy to clean, its a sheridan, durable, never shops.
Efficiency isnt to good until you do some valve work.
Let me start out that I have never chopped since I got it. I got this becasue I always wanted one when I was younger and now there going for more and more. Ive used every sheridan made known to man and even some custom sheridans. Out of the non-custom stock class ones this has to be the best. I like a gun thats got a little weight on it and doesnt feel cheap. This gun has perfect accuracy and is simple in design. Its stock class legal and ready for any tournament (and I mean any tournamnet if your good enough to play SC). It shoots just as good and IMO better than a phantom. Only problem is that the efficiency isnt that great until you do some valve work. Gun shoots great, perfect size, easily manuverable, and never breaks. Go to Palmers and buy some battle grips and get an autococker trigger shoe and your set.
One of the best SC guns ever made, just as good as any phantom, Buzzard, or KP-2. Durable, accurate, manuverable, simple, SC legal, and never shops.
Not upgrades per say, but maybe a full customization by an airsmith- both Palmer's and the Punisher have very impressive options, though Punisher will do whatever you want for a reasonable price.
-Dead accurate (think tricked Spyder)
-Light Trigger Pull
-Out of production
-Paint scratches easily
-A little on the loud side
P68's are no longer in production, but I was lucky to have gotten not one, but two from Misiek. When I used this gun, I became the master of the field, wasting newbies left and right. The P68 has a compact enough profile to run and hide without hindrance. Unlike most stock guns, it has a 15-round capacity, which is much better than having to use 10 rounds at a time. My favorite part about this gun is the feel of it. I feel like the SWAT guy that they have hold the shotgun. Also, this is a quality product. It is one of those things that you can appreciate just by holding it.
I love mine. If you're reading this review, you probably are curious about the P68. Well, if this is the case, you need to find one. As in right now.
Spyder Shutter, 7in Drop Forward, Powerltye Grip Styx Trigger Frame,32* Gel Grips, Spring Kit, Magna Valve, 12in AA Black Back, Ricochet 2K, Gas Through Fore grip, 114ci ACI HPA tank
Sheridan P-68sc All stock except for PMI Grips
PMI grips, Lanyard for Custom Attachment to Mag Block, Have Barrel Honed
Accuracy is good, Smooth Pump Action Easy Break Down, Pre Set to 265fps
Magazine Block is easy to lose, Safety ball detent easy to lose, Changing of powerlet
Great Marker for Stock play.. Works Best in a City Type Field and woods tho it Can be used in Speed ball. The Back Mag Block is easy to lose because it is not attached but can be easily attached. The Powerlets take their time to change about 8 turns to remove. the Accuracy and lightness of this marker make up for the disadvantages.
being able to the 50 of the break has a great advantage. the small size also help you to stay tight in bunker and move freely in the woods.
The Best Pump i have used.. to this day.... not the best in the world.. has little quirks that have to worked out.. overall a great budget pump to play stock....
Nice pump stroke
It's a Sheridan!
Month or so back, someone came in with a Palmerized P68. I've always wanted to try stock class and now I had my chance. It's a very compact gun. From a distance, all you will see is 3 tubes and a mask. It would make a perfect front man gun if electro's didn't dominate the tourny scene. Palmer's did a great job on the gun. I know for a fact that there was valve work, but I'm not sure about everything else. The effieciency was great. About 40 usable shots on each 12 gram. The pump stroke was very smooth. It was easy to cock the gun. It also felt very solid and durable. I didn't drop the gun, but it was a very strong gun.
As for the weaknesses...
The main weaknesses of the gun (for me at least) was mainly getting used to the gun. The first times I tried shooting it, I wouldn't cock it back all the way, causing triple shots. It was also hard getting the 12 gram thing off. I couldn't get a very good grip on the changer and it would take me a while to try and change a 12 gram. It kinda took a while to get used to changing every 15 shots, but i managed. Also, it doesn't have a removable barrel. I broke a ball in the barrel and borrowed a squeegee after the game. I stuffed the squeegee down the barrel and it came apart in the barrel. Since I couldn't remove the barrel, the entire thing had to be stripped down to get it out. Needless to say, I didn't get another chance to play with it :(. Also, for the size, it is kinda heavy, but not unbearable. Anyone without a diaper should be able to carry this around. Anyways, most of the weaknesses are user error. Don't let any of the weaknesses stop you from buying the masterpiece.
This is a great stock class gun. It's a damn shame they're discontinued, but they float around on ebay, and for a decent price. If you want to try stock class, definatly get this gun.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, November 3rd, 2004 at 5:19 pm PST
Stock setting compared to PGP stock setting:
Longer Pump Arm makes pumping easier
Easier to take out bolt
Easier to adjust velocity (you have to remove the bolt first)
Holds 5 paintballs more than the PGP
Longer CO2 Knob allows for better grip
More weight is put forward because of the longer barrel, it makes it feel a little unbalanced.
Make sure that you clean out the paint (the one Sheridan used to paint the P68SC black) that is left inside the barrel. This gives the gun better range and less of a chance for it to chop paintballs.
Also break in the pump arm so that it isn't still when you use it.. It doesn't hurt to grease up the pump arm either.
Paint rubs off of it after awhile so becareful when cleaning it after a game.
Most aftermarket parts for the PGP are compatible w/the P68SC.
Like I said, this is basically a upgraded version of the PGP. I wish that these were still being made today.
magazine plug easily lost
takes to long to change co2
no velocity ajuster
the grips could have been better(mine come loose very easily)
it takes 8 full turns to take out the co2 and 8 more to put in a new one
the body of the gun is all one piece
gets good air efficiency (between 30-43 shots)
because it is all one piece it is very solid
has a good pump stroke
you tilt it back instead of forwards. this helps you shoot faster
dont need to tilt it much
very easy to loose the safety ball/spring(i learned this the hard way)
all and all this is a very good gun. for the price there is no reason to not buy it. this was my first stock gun and it got me hooked. so my conclusion is that they should still make them and that if you have the chance buy one
a faster 12g changer, a fast loading system, a velocity adjuster
To me it feels better than a SC Phantom becuause of the weight and the fact that you have to rock it back (not forward).
it's a great project marker. you can do work on it yourself, or send it to a custom work shop and have and airsmith do work on it. There are a lot of upgrades that an airsmith can do to it (just take a look at Palmers site).
it looks great, and is easy to run around with.
the firing sound is nice (not loud and not quiet).
takes some parts from PGPs.
all around a really fun marker to play with.
the stock 12g changer and paintball tube cap need to be replaced ASAP.
the 12g changer takes eight turns to unscrew (and eight more to screw back on). eight! waayy to much time being wasted there. upgrading to a Mad changer or a Palmer Quicksilver seems like a must.
the paintball tube cap is just a small cap that locks the tube closed. i lost mine during the second game with this marker (thus making it imposible to use without loosing all the balls). a fast loader like the one made by Mad Custom is a great upgrade.
it doesn't come with a velocity adjuster, but this is one of the easiest upgrades to find (it's the same as on the PGP).
The pump stroke is a bit rough (especialy if you haven't used the marker in some time). right now i'm looking into if a Copper-T bolt will help reduce this problem.
The original bolt is hard to take out.
The safety spring/ball are easy to loose when you take the grip frame off.
The front grip screw is a pain to screw back into the nut behind the valve.
noone sells them anymore. ebay is the best place to look for one.
while i did write more bad than good, i think this is a great marker for playing and upgrading.