2003 Outkast Autococker
-DYE Stainless Steel 12"
-KAPP Drop Zone II
-Nitro Duck 114/3000
-12 Volt Revolution
Very short throw, smooth, easily adjustable, and looks great.
Installation can be troublesome, and it can also be pricey.
-After installing the Orracle 3-way, it was time to time my Cocker and start adjusting the trigger pull. Since I have a WGP Hinge Frame, I timed the Cocker as close to the front of the pull as possible. The lug drops at the very beginning of the pull, and then the 3-way switches shortly after. Let me tell you, this thing switches amazingly fast. As soon as you start to hear it vent, it's almost completely done switching the ram shaft. My back block was completely back before I knew it. My STO 3-way, on the other hand, had a long vent/throw and took forever to switch the ram. I was very impressed. After shortening the trigger pull, I grabbed a ruler and measured the pull at the bottom of the trigger. I was astonished, as my trigger pull was only 3.5 mm long! How short! Also, the Orracle 3-way is very smooth. In fact, I didn't notice any difference in smoothness when compared to my STO. I haven't experienced any leaks with the 3-way so far, and my LPR pressure it pretty low. I did, however, thoroughly coat the shaft's o-rings with Dow-33 before installing the shaft.
-If anyone has told you that the knob on the front of the 3-way can be moved very easily, this is not true (at least in my case). To adjust the knob, I had to put the 3-way into a vise and use a hex wrench. This was a lot of force, so do not worry about your timing slipping just because of the knob. By the way, I didn't use the knob at all to adjust my timing. The timing rod's coupler was all I used.
-At first, I hesitated when purchasing this 3-way. I really liked the look of the CT, because I thought the knob was ugly on the Orracle. I payed so little for the 3-way, I couldn't give it up. I went ahead and purchased it, opposed to the CT, and I like the look of it very much. The nickle plating matches the rest of my pneumatics perfectly. It is almost as long as my LPR, but I don't really care about that. It's a great looking and performing 3-way, to say the least.
I strongly recommend the Orracle 3-way. Like said, it has a very short throw and looks very good. This is a great upgrade for your Autococker, and can improve the BPS (if you shorten your pull) since it has a shorter throw than most other 3-ways .
10 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, January 10th, 2004 at 8:55 am PST
ANS 3way, Shockteck Bomb, Stock WGP, WGP STO (best IMO)
'02 Cocker raw body, anodized by Bloen Customs (see my home page)
Kapp valve, stainless screw kit, IVG, front block, and 15 deg. ASA
ANS ram and LPR
chrome STO 4 way (I promise it's the best 4 way anyone has ever made.)
Dye Pivot frame
Shockteck Supafly bolt and fat hammer
Mac Dev titanium pump arm and cocking rod
Black magic reg
Bloen Customs beavertail
Armageddon 3000/68 NitroDuck 4500/68
Instantly adjustable, stylish milling on the knob
requires higher LPR pressure to get the O rings to seal
I've tried many different 3 ways (4 ways, if you're picky). In my experience, the best one so far has been the chrome STO 3 way. Most of the other ones, including the orracle, require that your LPR pressure be turned up higher than necessary in order to get them to quit leaking. No amount of lubrication will counter this effect. If you are trying to achieve the absolute lowest cocking pressure (just enough to reliably cycle the pneumatics) you are going to need a 3 way that seals reliably at low pressure.
The ability to adjust the 3 way without an allen wrench, needle nose pliers, and a string of curses is fantastic, but since it's something you shouldn't need to do every time you play, I wouldn't sacrifice low cocking pressure for that convenience.
If you already own one and are happy with the function of your cocker, I'm happy for you. If you are dead set on replacing an STO 3 way with this one, let me have it after you do the swap ;-)
Over all this 3-way is pretty awesome. It's average flow rate is...well, average. The coolest plus is the looks and the feel. It's pretty adjustable and gives you a pretty short trigger pull. The price is a bit pricey but isn't that bad for womething of this quality. But it all depends on feel so if you can, give one a shot by going to a pro shop and gettin them to put one on for ya.
Awesome product to buy to get a cosmetic upgrade and a performance upgrade. A fun thing to play with that's adjustable and that's always a good thing.
Stock - ehhh, well i don't know anyone with a cocker that still uses a stock one
STO - great reliable 3-way if you "really" know how to time ur gun
Shocktech "bomb" - has a short throw like everyone says, but o-rings blow way too often
01 Black Magic
Dye Boomsticks in various length and bores
Gladiator inline reg
Gen-x front reg
Eclipse D.A.R.T Delrin Bolt
a bit pricey
Contrary to others, i haven't had to retime my 3-way since the initial set up. The adjustable knob stays where i leave it gassed or not gassed up. Initial timing is fast and easy, and VERY adjustable. I attained the "ball suck" timing in roughly 3 minutes. Pull is ideally short, while I have not been able to make it as short as the "bomb" 1/2 a mm isn't too noticable, and not going through the aggrivation of an o-ring blowing out on you mid game is definately worth the 1/2 mm.
Great 3-way, has it's benefits in the order it counts IMO, reliablility, pull length, ease of timing. If you don't mind spending the extra cash I'd definately recommend the Orracle 3-way
2k2 cocker black, kapp pump arm red, dye sticky grips red, dead on pro style df red,orracle 3-way black, kapp sto ram black, nelson spring kit, red front block hoses, jt pro series barrel red/black, 47/3k nitro, rase tank cover black, 9v revy black
- looks good
U gotta adjust ur timing almost every time u take off ur tank...
I bought this 3-way more or less for its looks... U must admitt they look damn nice. The quality of it is not at a all time high.. I had my pro shop rubbing heads on how to fix a little leak in it when i first bought it. Wasnt to satisfied with the fact i couldnt play with it when i first got it cause it had a leak.
-Timing is easy
-Dint work out of the box (wasnt happy at all about that)
-Timing konb comes loose when there is no presure in the gun, PAIN!
Looks like standard 3 way... dunno why but this bothered me
Aight this product when i first bought it i was kinda disappointed b/c the interior and the exterior look like the stock 3 way... I figured screw it ill put it on anyway.
After adjusting the 3 way to fit my guns specs at the time it felt COMPLETELY different however, it was no longer the hesitant lagging pull that it once was... it was
All in a nice precise order and package... Very nice for the adjustment of the acutation
I havent tried other high end 3 ways but i doubt they give you the easy touch up-ability that this one does... you go out on the field and you dont liek the way your gun is fireing... just give her a twist and ur good to go!!! WOOT its awsome :P
WGP Outkast '03
KAPP Reflex Frame /w DYE Stickies
CP Pro 2-Piece Barrel
WGP Outkast Sledge Hammer, Orr-acle 3-way, STO Ram
System X-11 Drop /w On/Off
3A 47/3k N2 Tank /w Center Flag
Timing gets out of adjustment
This WGP Orr-acle 3-way is one of the best 3-way's in the market today, comparable to the Belsales HP, and Shocktech Bomb. I chose the Orr-acle because it matches my marker, and I liked the idea of adjusting the cycling point without using the timing rod and coupler. For the price I paid, #32 shipped, I am happy with the product. It's noticeably smoother than the STO-Y2K stock 3-way, and has a shorter throw than both the STO-Y2K and the Belsales HP. The shorter throw allows my trigger to travel less for every cycle.
I had a bad experience with this 3-way during two separate games in one day. During a game, in the middle of a firefight, the 3-way started to come loose, and my back block didn't return to the firing position. Needless to say, I tried to adjust it on the field, and with some luck, I was able to get it to cycle every time I touched the 3-way. So I was using my marker like a pump when the 3-way went out of adjustment. This happened again after I re-adjusted it after the first time. Both times, the adjustment came loose, and screwed itself inwards, causing the cycling points to be later in the trigger pull.
I tightened the 3-way all the way in, towards the body, since both times it became loose, it was towards the body. By screwing it all the way in, it won't have anymore room to go and get out of time during a game. So now, I use the timing rod and coupler to adjust the timing, just like old times.
If you want a smooth, short throw 3-way that's also stylish, then the Orr-acle is your choice. Don't expect it to be adjustable just by using your hands, it might become unreliable during a game when you most need it. I got mine for #32 shipped, which isn't bad compared to the HP and Bomb. I rate it 9.5
10 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, March 7th, 2005 at 9:33 pm PST
2000 Stock Autococker
DYE Boomstick 18 in.
WGP Orracle Delrin Bolt
WGP Orracle Tickler LPR
WGP Orracle 3-way
WGP STO ram
WGP custom milled front block
WGP 15* ASA
Palmer Male Stabilizer/Regulator
WGP 45 Hinge trigger frame w/ cam adjuster
Battle Axe trigger
Psycho Ballistic Drop Forward
Externally Adjustable, Short Pull, Matches Tickler LPR milling
Prone to leaks
I bought this 3-way over the ct because it matches the milling of the Tickler LPR and because it is the same as the ct .
When I first got it I was impressed by it's looks and installing it was a breeze.
Unfortunately it leaked. It is only fair to say that at the time I installed this 3-way I had also installed the new front block and Tickler so I was learning as I went. I stayed up until 1:00 am working on fixing the leak because I wanted to play the next day. I tried everything I could think of but nothing was working. Of course I thought it was my lack of experience working on my autococker. Well to make a long story longer I thought I fixed it but when I gassed up at the field the next morning it was leaking again. I tried everything from lubing the orings to turing the LPR all the way down and working it back up. Nothing worked. The only way I could get it to work was by applying slight pressure to the actuator rod. This made me think I had a bent rod but then I remembered something I had read on the WGP Forum. Someone had said the orings that it shipped with were sometimes too small and that made sense. So a quick trip to the proshop and two slighty bigger orings later and I was blasting away with a super smooth, super short trigger pull. The tech actually found a flat spot on one of the orings which could have been from the factory OR could have been from me gassing up too fast after installing it. If it wasn't perfectly aligned in the housing the quick shot of gas could have caused it to shave itself on one of the ports. So hopefully this review will help any one who might have problems.
Don't be discouraged if it doesn't work perfectly right out of the box. Be patient and think, THINK, THINK about what is going on. It's incredibly convienent and easy to install. My response to any one who thinks this is a bad product is to consider that it's made by WGP just like the marker you bought it for and let's face, WGP isn't known for shabby workmanship or poor quality. Hands down beats the stock three in all catogories.
I give it a 9 because the only thing that could make it better would be some instructions or maybe some install tips from WGP.
BSI Ebolt, LP Valve, DOP Powertube & Bolt, Flatline, Lapco Bigshot, just about every home mod available
Spooler Valve, Short throw, looks
Length, losing timing
Well, I've installed this on my 'cocker, and I'm impressed. I chose the Orracle 3-way (identical to the CT 3-Way, except with a thumb adjuster) because it does something no other three way does: toolless adjustment. Meanwhile, it is very short and smooth, no argument about that.
Really, the Bomb or Hollowpoint may be slightly shorter or smoother, but this one is a great all around 3-way, and I no longer have to mess with my pain in the butt timing collar. I'm always switching out parts, changing to a Sniper II, and fiddling, so the spooler valve is a HUGE advantage.
I was originally concerned that bumping the 3-way may throw off the timing, but when it's gassed up it's almost too stiff to turn with your fingers. I just use an allen wrench. Really, it's just like a thumb adjustable LPR, if it gets knocked out fix it in five seconds.
You can even adjust your timing while on the field in a game (say your hammer lug slips a bit, and you cannot shoot at all. Twist - you're in the game again.)
The WGP Press forums had an article on how it has better flow than most 3-ring 3-ways due to larger holes in the spool and nipples, but I don't remember the details
All in all, it's very smooth, smoother than my used STO 3-way was, and a little shorter.
I think that the fact it's EASILY in the top 5 for smoothness, reliability, looks and throw length while doing something totally innovative and new makes this really one of a kind (two if you consider the identical CT)
Stock WGP 3-way - excellent 3-way considering its stock
Shocktech "Bomb" 3-way - absolutely disgusting, see review
Black 2002 WGP Vetical Feed
Evil Pipe Kit
Chrome Orr-acle 3-Way
Black ANS Jackhammer II
Black STO Ram
Warped Sports Adjustable Straight Dropforward (crappy version of Kapp Drop Zone III)Black Hinge Frame
Java 68cu 3000psi
Stock In-line regulator
- Can easily adjust trigger pull/timing
- EASY TO MAINTAIN!!!
- Kinda long, a little shorter than my Jackhammer II regulator
The true beauty of this 3-way is not that it let's you time your gun without removing the actuating rod coupler set screw and having to rotate the coupler, or the fact that it helps you create a short trigger, it's that if your 3-way is leaking, you won't have to remove most of the front block components or the top hats/barb fittings to be able to lube the O-rings. Instead, all you have to do is completely unscrew the inner sleeve of the 3-way, thus exposing the 3-way shaft for lubing. Since you don't have to unscrew the 3-way from the front block to get to the shaft, which often requires that you take off other front components, it will save you time and headaches in the long run. The easiest way to lube this is to remove the timing sleeve from the 3-way while the 3-way is still on the gun, put some Vaseline over the end of the sleeve that goes back on so that when you slip it back into the 3-way casing and over the shaft, it lubes both O-rings. Unlike the piece of sh*t Shocktech Bomb, it doesn't even require that much maintenance in the first place, so even lubing it isn't that necessary until after going out after 5 separate paintballing trips. It's definitely worth the $65 price tag, but since we are all cheap, just go on ebay and buy it from a reliable e-store. I got mine for 32 bucks! I've heard that the timing sleeve can come a little loose after not using it but when it's aired up, it shouldn't be a problem. Be responsible and learn how to operate your own damn gun and don't whine about something if it goes wrong. "Perfection" is not a word that goes hand-and-hand with "autococker," but when you get to "pretty damn close" you'll be happy you got it.
If you experience leaking in your 3-way a lot and are sick of unscrewing the 3-way all the time, get this product. You won't regret it. If you don't know how to lube it and time it, ask your local airsmith to teach you it's not that hard.