Tricked Out Spyder Imagine, Good but a slower ROF, and less responsive trigger.
Dragun TES with Evo II Hopper, HPA, SP Smart Valve, All Black with Black Grips (inside is painted)
Upgrades are fun to do, and in some cases actually improve the marker. Others are mainly cosmetic, and a statement by the owner. Kind of like cars. eh? This is one marker that is so good out of the box that it doesn't need much upgrading except:
1. Halo, Egg, or Reloader B Hopper.
2. The stock barrel is very good but some after market barrels are better. Spyder threading.
3. Paint the inside of the clear plastic grips with spray enamel to match your colors.
4. Get the SP Smart Valve ($20 no-tools ASA extension) if you want to use HPA or Nitro. It will move the unit back far enough to clear the grip and ASA.
5. Upgrade to your own tastes.
Price, Features, Flexibility of CO2 & N2/HPA, Value, Appearance, Accuracy, Trigger, Serviceability, Quietness, Intimidation.
Owners manual, Low price (less prestige) , Some "Tweaking" needed, Unfamiliarity, "Night Blind" (see below)
The first thing that should be said about the Dragun TES is that it truly provides more usable features than any other gun at its price point. In fact I venture to say than any gun at over twice its price. Yes, you can get some high-end markers for about $150 more than what a TES is currently selling for, but you are usually in for some major upgrading. With a TES, you do not have to upgrade anything to have a completely competent and versatile gun that is only surpassed by much more expensive (and upgraded) models when they have a superior operator behind them. I am not going to get into the faster, more accurate, open v. closed bolt and other marketing driven brand comparisons. I defy anyone to come up with a better "box-stock" offering. Let's look at the strengths:
First of all is Price. About $250 "street price", $299 MSRP
1. Relatively Low Pressure (350-450 psi). edit.The green o-rings that come with a TES are harder than is optimum for a true low pressure (<300 psi) application. There are kits that can take you down into the 200's, but they change out to softer o-rings. If your TES leaks out of the front block, check your psi. It may be too low to seal the hard rings.
2. Non-chop "eye".
3. 20 bps semi-auto ROF.
4. Regulator & Gauge provided.
5. LCD readout (see more below).
The LCD has the ability to be a timer, shot counter, safety indicator and also displays "semi", "auto" (which it does not do) and allows you to set the bps rate. This is handy if you do not yet have a speedy hopper. I have heard that auto lets you cycle faster, and it seems to work that way for me. "Dwell" is another mode that I have yet to try to adjust. Rumor has it that it does nothing, but I do not know if that is in fact the case. edit. (Dwell is adjustable on the electropneumatic "The One" kit and/or gun. Looks like they saved some $ by standardizing the LCD board programming. I have also heard that "auto" can be a legitimate function with a little moving of trigger wire connectors. However with a 20 bps ROF, who needs it?) Maybe someone who knows could address that in the comments. edit.(The Dwell "nothing" was confirmed by balla in comment #3)
6. Solidly constructed (almost all metal except grips) & the spring pin is solid brass!
7. Uses whatever bottle you have around, doesn't need HPA/N2 bottles.
8. Looks good with the top-cocking bolt.
9. Stock barrel is the most accurate stock one that I have seen, although not "perfect".
10. Trigger pull is only about 60% of a Spyder Electro. Compares favorably with almost any $750+ plus gun and the slack is adjustable.
11. Disassembly is even easier than a Spyder, because they have done away with the most often lost piece, the "hairpin" spring that secures the bolt take-down pin. In its place is a well-engineered adjustable spring-loaded ball detent. Good engineering!
12. Easy to take down, clean and reassemble. Like a Spyder/Timmy hybrid.
13. Very quiet when fired. Helps keep you inconspicuous.
14. Anti-chop eye. Will not fire without a ball in the chamber, can be switched off.
15. Lower recoil than most.
16. Comes with its own black briefcase, (at least a $20 value) and looks like it is to be feared. Six colors, some with fades, are currently available.
17. Tech support (Alabama) is responsive.
1. The "Owners Manual" reminds me of one that came with an Onkyo stereo that I bought in 1968 on Okinawa. It too lost something in translation. For example: "Don't the record (a pre-dvd recording media, for you younger players) on the turntable when you shouldn't the record". The TES manual has a section on velocity adjustment. In short it tells you to turn the hex bolt counter-clockwise to increase the velocity.
In the very next sentence it says to turn it counter-clockwise to decrease the velocity. Fortunately the pressure gauge is there to show you that counter-clockwise increases pressure, which translates to higher velocity. Somewhere around 400psi is about right for most uses. It may vary gun-to-gun depending on paintball, gas used, etc. But the manual doesn't tell you that.
2. Because it is so reasonably priced, some may "look down" on the gun. My advice to them is to not underestimate its abilities.
3. If you buy an Evo II to feed the little Dragun, you will need to sand down the feed tube to allow it to fit in the cup. I hope you have a Dremel Mini-Tool or some such motorized tool handy. Use the foam centered sanding bit for about 5 minutes. An abrasive wheel is too inconsistent, and likely to leave you with a non-cylindrical tube. Sanding by hand will take hours!
Also you will have to adjust the trigger play and the psi in the regulator. Both are very easy.
4. If you tell people that you have a Spyder, Angel, 'Cocker, etc. they usually are familiar with those brands. Fewer are knowledgeable about Draguns. For some having a "different" item is a plus. Not everyone likes Toyota Camrys.
5. The "night blind" comment means that the eye does not "see" black paintballs, or ones with a lot of black on them, and I expect that it would not see any balls at night because it relies on ambient light, not a light "beam". Not a real problem though if you turn the eye off (hold the trigger back before loading, for 8-12 seconds) as long as you don't out-shoot your hopper.
6. The TES, unlike the Imagine and others, does not have an external jack to plug in a charger for a rechargeable battery. It would be a nice "extra" although not really a necessity. With so many other features, guess they had to save somewhere.........
7. The threads in the regulator and ASA are different than the standard. If you want a drop forward you will either need a new regulator and hose, or just attach the small TES DF to the new DF! You may have to turn the dovetailed mount around in the process.
Anyone who is looking for a better gun than they currently have will be more than happy with the Dragun TES. Those that have well over $1000 in a gun probably feel that they have a better gun now, and wouldn't even consider it. However, if they are looking for a great "backup"....................?
I have no reservations about recommending this gun to anyone. I would give it a 9, but because of the great value I'm going with a solid 10. It gives more per $ by far than anything else I've seen. And if you can twitch or walk the trigger at 30 bps (probably physically impossible without seizures) the new "One" kit will let you fling paint at that rate too. Just remember that's only 7 seconds to an empty hopper.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, February 27th, 2004 at 7:55 am PST
Model 98 Custom with E-Bolt, electronic trigger, HPA, J&J 14" ceramic barrel, expansion chamber. That was my old/backup marker, which shot very well, and like all Tippmanns, was incredibly reliable. The rate of fire on the TES is better than the Tippy, as is the TES's eye, but I have not owned my TES long enough to compare the ruggedness and reliability of the m98.
Dragun TES / J&J Edge Ceramic Barrel Kit / System X 68ci - 4500psi HPA / Empire Reloader Hopper (soon to be an egg) / backup is a tricked out ebolt m98c
While the stock barrel is better than most, I would highly recommend to anyone who wants to play seriously to get a barrel kit. I use the J&J Edge ceramic kit, and have seen great results with it. Slick as hell and accurate. Spyder-threaded, by the way.
Another recommendation is to get an agitated/forcefed hopper. I am currently using an Empire Reloader agitated hopper, and easily outshoot it. With the TES, getting above 15 balls per second is fairly easy, so I am moving to an Evlution II hopper (with a Z-Board).
HPA should be a given, if you can afford it, as it offers many advantages over CO2.
Rate of fire, value pricing, electronic eye, many features found on higher end markers.
Plastic grip and the eye, but there is a nice E-Grip upgrade coming soon.
While at the 2003 World Cup in Orlando, playing for the University of Nebraska X-Ball team, I came across a display from a manufacturer I knew little about. Someone was railing on a display marker, and I was intrigued. Approaching the man behind the counter of the Dragun trailer, I asked him what he was shooting. He told me it was the Dragun TES, a new marker from Dragun. After test firing it myself and firing it faster than I thought I could, I asked about the price. I was shocked. He told me I could have one for $260, about half of what I estimated it to be. This was the World Cup, after all, where you can get great new gear for very little dough, but $260 seemed really low. After a day or two of rationalizing spending money I did not really have, I picked one up. After working out a few minor problems with the marker, I used it in 3 games of XBall. I found that I could have a very high ROF and decent accuracy, and I even impressed a couple hardcore Angel freaks on my team. After putting nearly 6,000 rounds of paint through it, I had surprisingly a surprisingly low amount of ball chopping, less than 2 dozen. That was with the eye turned OFF. I am thus far unimpressed with the eye, it works really well at 10 bps or less, but when you really start to rail on it, the eye seems to sputter. I am sure that the new grip and electronics coming out in a couple months will work a lot better, but for now the eye will suffice.
Overall, this is a great mid-level marker. I don't know of any other sub-$300 marker that gets 20 bps, but I 'm sure there is one out there. I would recommend buying this to anyone out there, even as an entry level marker for someone with a little more cash than I had when I got into paintball. The eye is about the only major weakness, but that can be dealt with. I would recommend that you wait for the new gripframe to come out, I looked at the prototype in Orlando and it is great. 9 out of 10, because no one is perfect.
Viewloader Prodigy - An extremely reliable marker if you just lube it with mineral oil (it works!!!). Striker and bolt, then you're done :O Trigger is incredibly light, the board is DEFINITELY not capped at 7bps. I can rail it.
Spyder Fenix - I dislike this marker somewhat, mainly because it's overpriced. The trigger is too stiff when compared to the Prodigy, but you can maintain speed easier when it's properly adjusted. Not worth it, I guess.
Pure Energy 68ci/4500psi with a JT tank cover :o
Odyssey Group International T.E.S. Black to Gold fade
MacDev MatchStick barrel kit
Evil Detonator regulator
Check It Speedy dropforward
Bandit Nylatron T.E.S. bolt
Pure Energy 68ci/4500psi tank
In order of importance:
-Prefferably force feed style hopper, but you can settle for a simple agitating hopper if you're low on cash. Best to worst hoppers:
Odyssey HALO B
Empire ReLoader B
Viewloader eVLution II
Odyssey HALO TSAs (not much difference between them)
Viewloader 12v ReVLution
Viewloader 9v ReVLution
Then finally the gravity fed 200s.
*Note* The detent in the TES is actually able to withstand a HALOs' constant pressure. Autococker detents can be used with some modification, and the two-piece feed tube is compatible with 2K2 Timmys, but Odyssey Group International (formerly Dragun, who were formerly M3, who have all been owned or co-owned by George Spurlock.)
*High Pressure Air (also reffered to as nitro, compressed air/CA, N2)
-HPA has way too many advantages over CO2 to count. It is all around better, just better. If you used a CO2 canister before and are on a budget for Nitro, just get a Pure Energy 47ci/3000psi tank, as the weight difference between it and a fibre wrap tank will not matter to you much, who is used to CO2 bottles (arg, heavy).
I suggest a Pure Energy 68/4500 tank. No maintenance, consistent enough and high quality parts. But if you wanna go adjustable, the best manufacturers are in this order:
MacDev (Conquest 04), CenterFlag (Dynaflow and others), Smart Parts (Max Flow).
*Note* Make sure you know what output pressures these systems can provide. Conquests only provide 600psi output, which will starve your marker if you're running higher than that.
*Note* Any compressed gasses are extremely dangerous when used incompetently. A 3000 psi bottle, if it were to explode underneath a half ton pickup, would rocket the truck up 30 stories. Always make sure you are not exceeding bottle pressure ratings or regulator pressure ratings or death could result. There have been 2 deaths in one month due to the valves on CO2 tanks coming loose and causing the bottle to rocket off and hit someone in the head. Always follow manufacturer guidelines when installing or removing valves, and if you do remove the valve, MAKE SURE THE TANK IS EMPTY! Always check with a responsible body (the manufacturer or the Department of Transportation) if uncertain about any of this.
-A barrel kit will give you the best advantage in accuracy, as a bore match (even to the one thousandth of an inch) matters significantly in accuracy, paint breaking in barrel, and more. A proper paint match would allow you to put the ball in the barrel, with the ball stopped and then blow softly and it would come out the other side. Yay. Try several balls, as consistency is not the greatest in paint. Generally, the bigger the better, as you'll get less barrel breaks (that's how they happen, when paint is distorted in the barrel because of trying to fit a bigger object in a smaller area, until it explodes.) but worse accuracy.
Barrel kit manufacturers in no real order:
-Dye (Ultralights are pimp, but the others aren't worth it at all)
-J&J (They make awesome quality barrels, ALL of them)
-MacDev (makes a good kit, but with fewer options. Very high quality, like all MacDev things are. You could probably sell one barrel out of here, as it comes with two tips. This is the MatchStick kit I'm talking about.)
-Smart Parts (makes a very versatile kit, but there are some technical problems such as weak backs and misalingment. This is the Freak kit I'm talking about.)
-Custom Products (their barrel are tried and true. They get really expensive, but they're worth it.)
Other upgrades more specific to this marker are as follows with a recommended product: REGULATOR: My choice for this would be an Evil Inc. Detonator, 2nd would be the AKA Sidewinder, 3rd would be a MacDev 04 Gladiator. If you're on a budget, the Bob Long Torpedo regulator is awesome, and some people have bought Delron pistons for it, which you can find in the Bob Long forum on PBNation.com###########. Supposedly they make it better.
DROP FORWARD: Check It Super Speedy drop forward is the best around. It's got an on/off ASA which is removable so that you when you make the switch to a higher end, dovetail rail mounted air system you won't have to buy a new drop to accomodate it. *NOTE* The TES uses non-standard hose fittings, meaning that if you replace the drop, you're going to have to use the old ASA and retro-fit it to the new drop (or else get a new reg too) so the hose will still fit the regulator, and if you get a new reg, just get a cheap bottomline style ASA and put it on the stock drop. This way you'll only have to replace one part (two max, one's cheap though).
*NOTE* On your stock drop forward, your screw-in HPA tank may not fit fully into the marker because of the gauge hitting the grip due to the short distance betweem the ASA and the grip. In this case, just loosen the ASA and slide it back a bit to allow for your tank to fit in.
Board: IS board from http://terminallerr.*** (you can guess this) or the T-Board from http://www.scenariodreams.***. The T-Board has a Black Dragun specific configuration, the other boards will probably need modification. But if you want to pick up an ESP frame, the best board you'll be able to get (from ACP, http://www.acp-products.com###########) is the Kinetic board. It's not out yet, but look at what's gonna be on it on their website and you'll be amazed.
Grips: Odyssey Group International are the only people who are making them now. Since the T.E.S. has an M92 frame, other grips won't fit. Please check the PBReview.com########### forums in the M3/PI forum in the sticky for information on how to paint your grips black.
Titanium striker: Apocalypse Custom Paintball makes the (better) Magnum striker, you'll need a Intimidator bolt pin too, though. I think Check It makes one. Make sure you are buying a SLIM striker for an electronic Spyder. Discuss this with Apoc first. Another striker being made is the titanium striker by Dark Horizons paintball. Please see the Comments section for this review, 5th post, on where to find them and which product you'll need for this marker.
Spring kits 32 Degrees or Maddman or Shocktech. 32 Degrees is the most complete, Maddman has the odd springs, Shocktech are just main springs. Get them all if you've got the cash.
Shim kits Shocktech makes the only one I can think of. Of course, you could just go buy some spacers and save some cash, but that takes effort... Ug!
Aftermarket bolt: Get a Nylatron bolt. They are cheaper than Timmy delron bolts (which will work, just make sure the bolt has a milled slot for the ball detent), but they will work too, and much cooler looking. I suggest a Bandit nylatron bolt, because they're much higher quality than Spudnuk'l. Choose the TES version. The stock bolt tends to scratch up the breach.
See Review Body.
See Review Body.
Alright, I've decided I'll make this a question answering review. Post any questions in the Comments section, and I will answer them as soon as possible and will move them up here.
+ + + + + VALUE: It's got the features of the most expensive markers, looks hot like a Timmy, shoots faster (blowbacks go at 50cps+, way faster than any Timmy) than any electro-pneu (just get a fast board [IS or T]), all for $250 or so (retails at $320 Canadian).
+ + + + + SPEED! Blowbacks can cycle more than 50cps. With lightened internals (titanium striker) and high pressure operation with gas CO2, they'll go crazy.
+ + + + SIMPLICITY:It's a blowback, after all, and no rocket science-ology is required to repair it. It's a little more complex becuase of the eyes, etc., but it's gonna either be a sear/striker/main spring problem, isn't clean/lubed, or your valve exploded or something extremely rare.
+ + + LOOKS: It looks like a crazy cool Timmy or something.
+ + + STOCK FEATURES:
-an eye (DOSE)
-low pressure operation (300-450psi)
-20bps LCD board w/ debounce option (called Auto, not full auto, but it means debounce on the board)
-adjustable trigger (not externally)
+ + UPGRADES: Lots of upgrades. It is a blowback after all.
+ +ADJUSTABLE SOLENOID DWELL: Dwell on electro Spyders sets how long the solenoid is energized for. The longer it's energized for, the more battery is used. This could be used to resolve sear and striker problems. Another potential problem is that the capacitator used to energize the solenoid might not recharge in time for the next shot if the dwell is set too high.
+ BALL DETENT: The T.E.S. has a strong ball detent that will actually hold a Halos' pressure. Autococker ball detents, with some adjustment and possibly physical modification to the marker or the detent, work also.
- - - - - QUALITY CONTROL: Dragun has had many problems with leaks from the front block, due to a bad screw, which you can get from Dragun themselves. Some TES' have eyes that don't work, some have boards with reversed chips, some have the inability to shoot above 200fps. Just send your marker in and you should get these problems dealt with, but with enough knowledge about the blowback design you should be able to do it yourself. Most of the T.E.S.s' with these quality control problems were made more recently, but still about 2 months ago. OGI has stepped up their QC, I think (according to the Co-President George Spurlock. He's been Co-President for every company that's made Dragun markers for god knows how long... OGI, Dragun, M3...)
This is where the T.E.S. is a gamble for your money if you don't know quite a bit about the mechanics of a marker.
- - - - MANUAL:Very bad manual. That's all that needs to be said.
- - - LOW PRESSURE:LP operation. This will make your marker more silent, but WHO CARES! It'll also increase your chops because of the need for a stronger main spring (the thing the pushes your striker into the valve. The bolt is attached to the striker, don't forget, so the faster it moves the faster the bolt moves, and the bolt is what chops balls in two). Don't count on eyes all the time.
- - - VALUE: Ballers who've spent 10x more on their junk will look down on you like you're the scum of the earth because you made a good decision, unlike them. Spending lots of money on something makes you want to deem your purchase sensible, which it isn't.
A great product, but with its' minor glitches, and abysmal quality control, it'll need some work to make it really worth while. But when you do get it working nicely... hehe. It'll be mad. Crazy mad. I have to say this is where the most points are lost, in the horrid quality control department that apparently has become better.
The BEST value on the market right now. If I were you I'd get a stock Spyder valve and run it at 850psi with a titanium striker and unregulated CO2. Then you'll shoot faster than a mad crazy rabid seizure fingered nutcase.
A seven on ten for an amazing marker, with big quality control problems.
7 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, June 29th, 2004 at 11:11 pm PST
Black Dragun T.E.S.
Halo TSA Backman
J&J Ceramic Barrel
20oz CO2 (yeah yeah I know hpa is better)
If your a rec. player the only one ya really need is an electric hopper.
Otherwise I'd suggest hpa, barrel (as always), better regulator
-Pretty accurate stock
Minor things, read review
When I bought this gun I wasn't sure what to expect seeing as how there are some mixed reviews about it. I was surprised to find how fast I could spray paint with this thing. I knew it fired up to 20bps but I didn't know it was only semi-auto with a D-bounce option. This mode is actually 'Auto' on the LCD and somehow it seems to let you shoot faster than you can move your finger. As high as the ROF is I have yet to break any paint. The trigger is pretty sweet, the buttons on my cd player require more pressure to push which helps with the speed. Like I said it's fairly accurate stock and even better with my J&J ceramic. Contrary to what a lot of ppl say there's no real need to rush out and buy a new barrel. It's one of the better stock barrels out there and a lot quieter than any Spyder or Tippman. It's been said that the grips suck, too big or something. I happen to like the grips cuz they're very comfortable. The buttons are sunken so there's no accidental changing of modes. I run CO2 thru mine and it's done really well with it, however the reg. does tend to turn into an ice cube. But that's CO2 for ya. Now there are a few things I wasn't too impressed with. Nothing major. The top of my pressure gauge is turned at 3:00 but it still works perfectly. A lot of ppl would agree with me that the owners manual isn't very helpful. If you have any technical questions about it just call the company. There's also useless options on the LCD like dwell and like I said the Auto mode isn't exactly auto. Oh yeah they misspelled the word tactical on the gun (tachtical). This obviously has no bearing on the performance. Just thought it was funny.
I would recommend this gun to anyone no matter what kind of player; rec., woods, senerio or tournament (with some upgrades). Since the pros far out weigh the cons I'm giving this a 10.
regulator, drop, barrel kit, fast loader, compressed air
So I just received my Red to Black fade TES a few Fridays ago. I had just received my T1 a few days earlier, and I wanted a TES as well. My teammates say I am a gun whore. Back to the point of this review, I am going to tell you how the gun compares to some other markers, and I will attempt to be as detailed as possible. Nobody likes reading those s*it reviews that say "Buy it cause itís cool," and so on to the details we go :-)
When I first received my T1, I was amazed by the quality of the looks. I must say, that when the TES arrived, I again, was not disappointed. I cannot believe how good these guns look. I think the designers of the milling and color fades need a pat on the back. It is a VERY nice polished black fading into an equally polished red. The marker comes packed nicely with spare parts, warranty cards, manual, and the stock barrel in the same kind of case as the T1. I scanned the marker throughout, and I found no blemishes, etc. Unfortunately, there would be a few when I was done this weekend, but back to the review.
As always, I decided to take the marker apart before it gets any field time. I had a good idea of what to expect, as I am quite fond of blowbacks, and with the exception of my T1, it is all I have ever owned. The marker field strips much the same as the T1, but with a little more ease. You do not have hoses to worry about. The bolt is a standard aluminum bolt, with the pull pin at the top. I was however impressed with the striker. It is designed with a rubber lip rather than an o-ring. It serves to "catch" more air to recock at lower pressures. I would advise owners to keep this moist with oil or lube, as it can dry out, and tear or wear to the point of leaking. This would probably lead to some of that sputtering I always read about. I then took the trigger frame off to modify the switch, and to look inside. Same frame as the T1, but with less "stuff" inside. The switch modification was easier because of this. I did manage to put a scratch on the trigger frame when I was taking the trigger out. The eye wire channel on the gun could use to be a little deeper, but no big deal. Just tip the gun upside down when reassembling, and gently set the trigger frame on top until the metals touch w/o any resistance. This will ensure you do not pinch the eye wiring. The front block leaking problem has been addressed on the newer TES. They have made the fit tighter, and the screw to hold it to the body contains a tiny o-ring. I had to pull very hard, just to get the front block off. The block reveals a nice big port for high flow, and the same valve as my T1. I lubed up all the o-rings and began to reassemble. So far, I was impressed with the looks and design of the marker.
Sunday practice came again, and I got to shoot both my T1, and TES. My setup was a 47 / 3000, egg II w/ z-board, stock TES, and Nelson paint. I adjusted the regulator to 350 psi, and began to shoot. I was shooting @ 265 fps. I increased the pressure, and I was shooting @ 285 fps at about 375 psi. Not too bad. I quickly dry fired the hell out of the gun, and I did not experience the dreaded burping, leaking, or half cocking. My gun shot perfectly. I then tested it against my T1. I must say for those who are curious, there are similarities in looks, but a whole lot of differences in performance. First of all, this thing kicks WAY less then a stock Spyder, but more then my T1. For those who say this is not a noticeable difference, they are incorrect. It is not quite a night and day difference, but its there. The TES gets better gas efficiency. I was getting 400 - 450 shots w/ my T1, and 600-650 w/ my TES. That is a benefit. The accuracy is great out of the box ( with a good paint match ), but I did notice that my T1 is more "stable." The eye system is the same, and so I was able to test the two against each other without any noticeable difference. The stock setup is the same, so there are no differences there. It was time to field test this thing.
The first few matches of the day I let one of my teammates use the TES. I wanted to get some more matches in with my T1. According to him, the gun was very impressive. He said it shot better then his Spyder clone, and that the consistency / performance was good. The regulator was stable, and there was little to no drop off. He was getting + / - 5 with the stock setup. I had completely lubed the reg with dow 33 before, and on both the T1 and TES, this has paid off. He encountered no problems with the eye, sear, or other dreaded TES problems. About half way through the day, I decided to try it out. I noticed that the accuracy was pretty good as I matched my paint, but it seems that the ONE is more stable. The speed factor is pretty much equal as even though the T1 is capped at 30 vs. the TES at 20, few people can actually hit 20. In this test, both markers shot as fast as I could w/o any lag time. I did notice however, the T1 was able to maintain the higher rates of fire w/o as much deviation in shot groupings. The TES was still better then any of the Spyder or Clones out there. I did forget to turn on my Egg one game, but the eye prevented any chopping. I feel the eye systems on these guns is pretty good. There is a little room for improvement, but they do get the job done. All in all, this gun met all my expectations. It is a fast, accurate, nice looking, supremely designed blowback. It is worthy of a much higher price tag, and you are getting a great gun for the price. Mine will serve for me as a nice little backup to my T1.
I think the TES is the best blowback you can get for your dollar. It has a huge potential, and when taken care of, will treat you well. My advice is to research the gun before you purchase, and if any of those dreaded problems come up.....be calm, and analyze the problem. Because this is a blowback, the fixes are cake. If you are on the fence about a T1 or a TES, I still think the T1 has the advantage. That being said, this still is a great gun, and worthy of a 10 / 10. The people who are giving it 1 /10 like the previous review, probably are either at a 1st grade reading level, or are mistaking the TES for a BE Avenger.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, July 24th, 2004 at 10:48 pm PST
Dragun T.E.S. blue to black fade, Evolution II hopper with Y board, System X 14 inch barrel, Nitro Duck HPA 68 ci 3000 psi (old ducky)
Barrel, stock is not bad but you can always get better.
Drop Forward, some HPA tanks won't fit on the stock drop.
Tigger, I don't like it but I'm starting to get used to it.
Bolt, Timmy bolts will fit this gun, Shocktech Superfly would probably be the best to get, Evil second choice.
New Grips, maybe someday when someone starts making some for it.
Regulator, stock one is temper-mental sometimes, so far, does shoot great stock though.
Agitating Hopper, Eggy or Halo, high rate of fire.
Good on Batteries and Air
Tempermental Reg sometimes
Eye does not see dark paint
At first I had some trouble with the TES re-cocking and it had a small leak down the barrel but the guys at my local pro-shop had it going again in a day or two. The cup-seal and valve were bad. Also the stock spring was rusty but the guys at the local proshop where I bought the gun replaced it for free. Now the TES works flawlessly.
This weekend was my first time playing with my T.E.S. on a field with other people shooting at me. So far I am pretty impressed with it. It shoots awesome and is very consistent. It is semi-low pressure gun it operates at 300-425 psi, 400 psi is a good pressure to operate the gun at. HPA is recomended because the velocity is controled by the reg and drop in pressure may effect re-cocking and velocity. I've heard that people using CO2 have had trouble with thier o-rings breaking because the rubber gets brittle when they get cold. The field that I played on had there crono at 250fps and the gun velocity was set at 245fps and didn't vary more or less then two or three feet per second. Not bad for the stock reg. The TES is pretty good on HPA with a full 68 ci 3000psi tank after shooting 900 rounds there was still 1000psi in the tank and was still shooting consistant. The TES is also awesome on batteries, I still have the regular Duracell that it came with and it's still on full after shooting 2500 shoots approx.
The rate of fire is excelent, I'm new to the game and I can walk the trigger pretty fast(zoomy fast!). I have yet to break a ball in the barrel or chop a ball, the eye works great. The eye does not see darker colored paint however. Even with the eye off and a gravity feed hopper I didn't chop any paint while target shooting. The trigger is not adjustable but fairly light and short pull, very sensitive to begin with. Recomend a higher flow air system, needs a high recharge rate for re-cock. The re-cock is not adjustable.
There are not many upgrade parts for it right now. The barrel is Spyder threads so there are tons of barrels you can buy. The TES will fit an Intimidator bolt, you just need to use the stock pin because the Timmy pin won't work. All of the fasteners and screws are Metric. The Allen wrenches the TES comes with are kinda crappy and do not fit all hardware, so I would recomend buying a set of Metric Allen wrenches.
The feed neck is a bit small I had to sand my egg but the VL200 fit fine. You may need to sand your hoppers, but it only takes a few minutes. Also the feed neck is removable, not sure what thread type. The gun is adjustible from 4-20 bps. At one point in time there was an auto mode on the TES mine does not have it (not full auto mode, just more reactive trigger). The milling and the anodizing is very nice but there is a very sharp edge on the back of the TES near the re-cock pin, be careful when re-cocking it doesn't feel good to jab yourself with the sharp edge. Also the TES is easy to take apart and to clean or oil. NOTE: To turn the eye off hole down the trigger for approximately 10 seconds. The ONE kit is available for this gun which will increase your ROF to 30bps for 250.00.
The T.E.S is an awsome gun, I just wish the owners manual was as awesome. Dragun is very promt in getting back to you if you email them with a problem.
The TES is probably the best gun you can buy for the money I got mine as a gift for 270.00. The TES is smooth, quiet, consistant, fast, accurate, efficient, and light. Works well stock with HPA and a new barrel. Awesome gun for beginners and seasoned players alike.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, February 18th, 2004 at 12:25 am PST
Dragun TES Stock for now, a 12v revvy, 70ci 4500psi WGP Nitro Tank
Spyder Xtra With some extras as a back up
If your a tourny player you have to worry about getting a new barell and maybe that upgrade to the grip frame that makes it shoot faster. If you dont play tournys dont even worry about upgrading all youll do is mess things up.
PRE BATTLE TEST REVIEW
-doesnt chop (maybe once in a blue moon) Due to the anti chop eye.
-Not a gas Hog
-Drop is too small to put a nitro tank on, you have to gt a bigger one.
-Although the eye rocks turning it on and off is a pain
-Auto mode is really just a more reactive semi auto mode(can be a good thing though)
-I have big hand so it doesnt bother me but the grips are kind of big.
I have to admit this is my first real high level gun. All the weaknesses you see there are easily fixable so you dont need to worry about it at all. I am exceptionally pleased with what i got for christmas and wouldnt go back on wanting this for anything, not even an angel speed. Ive pust over 1000 shots through it with one chop and it was a zap rec ball.
Get this gun its GREAT.
Couple tips if you have this gun:
To turn the eye off hold the trigger down for about 10 seconds and you will be able to dry fire. To turn back on turn off the frame and cock it then turn it back on.
IS YOUR REGULATOR STILL HAVING PRESSURE READING EVEN THOUGH YOU TOOK OFF THE C02 (or nitro) AND REALEASED ALL THE PRESSURE.
No prob, just turn off the eye and dry fire untill the gauge goes back down to zero.
Post BATTLE TEST REVIEW
Worked great, had a lot of elliminations with it. It was a blast shooting it in airball games, a great difference from my Spyder.
POST POST BATTLE TEST REVIEW
Well it's been a while and I have since gotten rid of this gun. After my first few times playing with it I could really never get it working again. I am my teams gun tech( I had this gun a year and a half ago), I fix Shockers, Impys, Cockers, Angels, and pretty much anything else you could think of. Yet, I couldn't get tis gun working again. Too much leaking and teflon, too many leaking cup seals, and way too many upgrades and money spent trying to get it to at least work well. I loved it when it worked, maybe they revamped it when they made the TES B, I hope Odysee did a better manufacturing job than Dragun did.
Broke down on me about 3 months after I bought it.
Odysee did a better manufacturing job than Dragun did.
4 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, March 29th, 2005 at 9:29 pm PST
'04 Angel Speed, '05 Angel Speed, Fly's, 4Flys, DM4, DM5, one bob long, evil omen and pimp, most of the autocockers, all tippys, most spyders/pirahnas
Black '04 Angel Speed, stock everything except new regulator and soft tip bolt, eggII zboard, 45/45
new trigger sensor, new eye or different anti-chop system, barrel, regulator and drop forward, grips, clamp feed neck
It doesnt cost much (thats the only strength)
speed, trigger, eyes, barrels, LCD, customer service, leaky reg out of box! sucky drop forward
ok, so i've had to try and fix about five of these now, and honestly, each time i about feel like throwing them off of a large cliff. TES is so terrible. it says you can get 20bps out of the box. thats the biggest bs ive ever heard. i couldnt get that thing going 8bps, and i can walk angels at 30bps no sweat. barrel is very innacurate. eye doesnt sense dark paint, and even when you have light color of paint, it only sees about one out of every five balls. every TES that ive seen has leaked when the person bought them (all been bought new). the reg isnt even that good, it fluxates constantly. absolutely a mess. drop forward wont let you use nitro, looks ugly, and is a pain to take off. the customer service is ridiculous. just for fun you should try calling up Dragun, and seeing how long it takes you to find someone who first speaks english, then knows what a paintball gun is, and then can actually help you. its nearly impossible. also, the manual is terrible, almost as bad as the customer service. also, its an lcd screen, yet it really serves no purpose, as you cant change anything, your semi-auto only, even thought theres a full-auto function, all it can do is show you how many shots you have shot...
walking is next to impossible on this gun, as the trigger sensor is so unsensitive, i found a replacement one for my neighbors gun, and that helped to get it going about 10-12bps, which still isnt that good. but, after replacing the regulator and drop forward (cant replace one without the other), then it became much more gas-friendly, and wasnt fluxating as badly. then we got him a new barrel, and its accuracy nearly tripled. then we got him some new grips so it didnt slide around as badly in his hand (plastic grips suck!), then we got him a new feedneck so he could put on an apache hopper. also tends to blow o-rings constantly, always carry a 10 pack on you.
so with the gun, the trig sensor, reg, drop forward, barrel, grips, feedneck, and many O-rings, the TES cost him $200 + 40 + 70 + 60 + 75 + 25 + 20 + 10= $500+taxes.
and his gun only goes about 10bps...sad, isnt it?
honestly, for $500, you can get SO MUCH BETTER!!!! even for $200 you can get tons better. i got my '03 vf autococker for $200, and i could rock it up to 10bps. then i got an eblade (for $300), and can now roll in the upper 10's lower 20's. of course i bumped up to the '04 angel speed, and can now throw paint out at upper 20's, lower 30's. seriously people, you can find so much better!!! people usually dont start out on this gun, so i would suggest you stick with your tippmanns/spyders/pirahnas for a couple more months, save up your paychecks, and then get you an autococker! WGP autocockers are some of the best paintball guns out there for around $200-700. seriously, save your money and get one! or if your smart, just evade them all together, and go straight to an Angel.
i guess if would rather be fixing your gun 24/7 instead of paintballing, then get this gun. otherwise, stay as far away as you can, and laugh at those who have TES's!!!
by the way, HOW IN THE CRAP DID THIS GUN GET A 8.9/10 RATING???? HAVE ANY OF YOU EVEN USED THIS GUN???? HAVE YOU TRIED TO FIX IT, ADJUST IT, OR EVEN SHOT IT???? HONESTLY!!!! IF YOU HAD TRIED THIS GUN OUT, YOU WOULDNT GIVE IT ABOVE A 3!!!!! idiots these day....why do they have to ruin such a cool site...
I know this gun looks attractive, because it costs at or under $200. but honestly, i wouldnt spend $75 on it. i'd take a spyder victor or brass eagle talon over this gun. save your money and time, and get you an autococker. it wont ever break on you (unless if you throw your gun at people(which is kinda fun)). so stay away from this gun, and enjoy not having to fix your gun after every other shot....
Various Electronic Spyders, worked better and more reliably
2004 Blue BKO, dual Palmer Stabilizers, 14" Boomstick, 48/3000 HPA
A new gun
Horrible Tech Support
I only have 15 Words...
This is arguably one of the worst guns I've ever used. I don't even think Dragun exists anymore because I get their VOICEMAIL when I call Tech Support. First of all, the regulator sucks, about every 200 shots an O-ring pops or something like that. The company sent it to me broken, I have to deactivate the eye to even fire it! The dwell settings constantly reset themselves so it only half cocks in the middle of a game. The barrel plug they sent me scratched my barrel. I chop all the time. But I still think the Tech Support is the worst. I've called numerous times and gotten their voicemail, I've emailed them probably 15 times and gotten no response. I can only HOPE TO GOD that this isn't because they're filling orders! Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY THIS GUN!!!!! It was one of the worst purchases of my life!
Never buy this gun. It is unreliable, inaccurate, and the Tech "support is atrocious. I think the only strength of this gun is the cool case it comes in, but that doesn't even begin to make reparations for the rest of the gun's problems. If you buy this gun, you might as well burn your money, that's about all it amounts to.
Small DF (Might have some problems with Nitro)
Non-Standard ASA/Regulato Fittings
I recieved this marker 2 weeks ago for about $200 (shipping included). I didn't know what to think because this marker was so cheap, but as soon as i opend the case($20 value) it came in, i saw a great looking gun. The feel of it is awsome, all metal except the clear plastic grip plates. The trigger frame is the frame of an M92 beretta which is bigger than the standard 45 for paintball guns. The bolt and other parts are easily taken out( the bolt can be individually taken out by pulling up ion the screw). I screwed in the barrel, hooked it up to some nitro (i had to adjust the ASA a bit for my N2 Tank to fit) and popped on my 12V. I went through a whole 2000 rnd bucket without breaking a single ball! The stock barrel is great. I could hit almost anything within a reasonable rage within 2 shots. The trigger is very light but i modded mine to me even lighter(search the forum for a trigger mod) i can easily get 16BPS but i can only fire 16bps with my friends eggy :-( . Some people complain about leaks, broken parts, etc..... but mine came fine, no problems at all. i guess its a matter of luck!
P.S. - My anti-chop eye sees black paint, i don't know what the hell people talk about when they whine that the eye cant see black paint.
Hopper - If you're upgrading from a 98C, a5, ect.. an agitated hopper is a must!!! 12V revvy, Egg, or Halo/ReloaderB(if u hav the money)
Trigger - Search the forums for a trigger switch mod. You can either open up the one in your TES and mod it or buy a new one from Radio Shack.
Bolt - APM Products Tigershark Bolt for $20 (self-lubing, nytralon, more efficient, reduces noise) this bolt is very cheap and preforms much better than Shocktech and Bandit bolts
Drop Forward - Get a new one if your N2 doesn't fit or if u need to balance your gun. My WorrGas fit in with some adjustments and the weight of the gun is balanced.
Barrel - The stock one is great but if u MUST get a new one just in order to be able to say that your marker is officially "PIMP'D OUT" then get a 14'' J&J Ceramic(30$, Looks great, teflon coated)
If your upgrading from a NOOB marker and dont have $1500 to spend on an eclipse autococker, angel, or DM4, GET THIS GUN IMMEDIATELY!!!!!!!! It is well built, reliable, has features that guns 2 to 5 times its price have, and can change into an electropneumatic any time you want (if u hav the money to get the ONE kit)
I REPEAT GET THIS NOW!!!!!!! ITS ONLY AROUND $185 ON EBAY!!!!!
10 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, July 21st, 2004 at 6:11 pm PST