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Wicked Air Sportz W.A.S. Equalizer Board for E-grip Reviews
The Equalizer is a tournament legal board for Tippmann's A5 and Pro-E markers. This board has been approved for use by Tippmann, which means that by using this board you will not void the warranty of your marker. This upgrade board increases the rate of fire and offers numerous other features. The Equalizer uses highly sophisticated algorithms for calculating the optimal cycle timing and handling issues of marker recoil due to a "sear tripper" design. There are no dip switches. All settings are stored internally. Dwell, Debounce(tm), rate of fire cap, and firing mode can be programmed using the trigger and LED. Firing modes include semi-auto, PSP ramping, and NXL full auto. Rate of Fire: Approximately 25+ bps
The Wicked Air Sportz W.A.S. Equalizer Board for E-grip is older, so while it may be available used and in a few cases new, it is not commonly available anymore.
A-5, E-grip, JCS Duel Trigger, JCS front bolt, Phat XChamber, accumulator, anti-siphon on 20 oz. CO2, Flatline or 14" JJ Ceramic barrel, JCS Gold power tube, DOP RVA, stock hammer spring.
Can drive the solenoid to any rate of fire.
Easy to use.
The Cyclone feeder currently can not keep up. See 2ndEdit below.
My stock E-Grip maxed-out at just over 13 bps on full auto, as measured by a hand-held X-Radar chronograph.
The new WAS Equalizer board arrived from WAS safely packed inside a sturdy mailing tube nine days after the order was placed on their Web site. The board comes complete with microswitch, solenoid, capacitor and 9v battery connector. The position of the upper rotary switch (firing mode) on the stock Tippmann board is occupied by a momentary pressure switch, which will be depressed with a small tool, such as an Allen wrench, for turning the electronics ON and OFF for firing, as well as ON and OFF (together with a depressed trigger) for programming. The position of the stock lower rotary switch (rate of fire) is taken up by a multicolor LED that designates power-on and various programming states and settings.
The upgrade is installed by removing the E-grip from the marker, removing the trigger assembly, then unscrewing the two halves of the grip. Dropping in the "drop-in" upgrade was a little tedious for several reasons.
1. The capacitor is slightly larger than the stock, resulting in its popping out of place while fitting the opposite side of the grip.
2. The wires to the trigger microswitch are longer than stock. This is a problem because there is virtually no room for extra wire here. There is a narrow slot for the wires and a tight-fitting square pocket for the switch, with no spare room. Fitting this in place required carefully smushing the excess wire into a bundle and pressing it upward and rearward with an Allen wrench until there was room for the lower trigger guard screw land to close.
3. The battery wires are shorter than stock, requiring some additional fussing to figure out a route that leaves the ledge clear for the trigger assembly.
The stock actuator rod is re-used. After taking care to avoid crimping any of the newly placed wires, I closed the halves of the E-Grip (now WAS-Grip), installed my JCS Duel trigger, and re-attached the grip to the marker. The installation required about 15 minutes.
Marker setup: A-5 with polished internals, WAS-Grip, JCS Gold Power tube and front bolt, JCS Duel trigger, Flatline, Phat X-chamber, DOP Accumulator, DOP RVA, (stock hammer spring), CO2, and the stock Cyclone feeder (the newer version, with the "A" stamped on the bottom). XBall Bronze were used. The XBall Bronze have performed flawlessly with the same setup prior to installing the WAS board.
The WAS board must be OFF to begin programming. [ALSO THE MARKER SHOULD BE DEGASSED! It's not supposed to actuate the solenoid with trigger pulls during programming, but since you basically have to point the marker at your head in order to see the little blinkie light, degassing and unloading are a good idea.] With the board power OFF, I pressed and held the trigger while depressing the board's power switch for about 1/2 second. The LED turns red, then displays the color of the first programming setting (discussed below). The manual (available only on-line, and not shipped with the product) says that it will light up green when turning on programming mode, but mine only blinked red, then went to solid red:
Programming modes. Click the trigger once to change to the next programming mode. The LED displays the mode color:
Solid Red: Dwell programming mode. This is how long the solenoid presses against the actuator pin for each shot. I did not check the default value or alter it. It is supposed to be 6 ms according to the manual, but on this forum, the WAS rep has said that it was 10 ms, and should be set to 5 in order to conserve battery power.
Solid Green: Debounce programming mode. This should only be changed if your marker is double-firing.
Flickering Green: Rate of Fire Cap. This is the first one that you really need to do anything with. When the LED is flickering green, hold the trigger until it goes out. NOW WAIT. The LED will now blink, slowly enough for you to count, once for each ball per second at the current setting. Once this has stopped, click the trigger the number of times that corresponds to your desired rate. Then wait a few seconds for a multi-color, 4th of July fireworks blink, indicating that the setting has been recorded.
Alternating Green/Orange: Firing mode. This is the other setting you may want to change. It behaves like the ROF display. The values are 1 = Semi-auto (NPPL); 2 = 3 shot ramping (PSP); 3 = 3 shot full auto (NXL).
When I was done setting the ROF and Firing Mode, I pressed in the hex wrench again and held it until the LED showed solid red, indicating the board power was OFF.
Now, power OFF means that, unlike the stock E-Grip, which turns itself on when you pull the trigger, the WAS board is completely dead once the power has been manually turned off. It will not trip the sear until you turn it ON. To fire the marker, I used my Allen wrench to press the momentary switch while NOT pressing the trigger. The LED displayed Red, then went to solid green, to indicate that it was in A-5 mode. (If you are using this with other than an A-5, then read the manual on this point.) Throughout the time that the WAS-grip is active, the LED blinks red about once a second. In terms of battery use, I guess this is better than steady red. Since my finger covers it while holding the marker, its visibility should only be an issue in a night game. When done playing, the little tool needs to be inserted again to turn off the power. The board turned itself off automatically after 30 minutes of inactivity.
First run: Set to "3 shot full auto", 17 bps. Firing at 280 fps. As measured by the X-Radar, the rate was indeed 17 bps. Firing a half hopper, no balls were broken. It sounded as though no balls were skipped, though I did not count the balls and time the firing. The Cyclone seemed to perform flawlessly at 17 bps. (Yeah, you guys already knew it would.) This "3 shot full auto" seems to mean that just pulling and holding the trigger will not initially go to full auto. I had to fire off several single shots (maybe 3?), then it went to full auto.
Second run: Same firing mode, 18 bps. Firing at 280 fps. X-Radar said 18 bps briefly. AT this rate of fire, there were frequent ball skips, which, I suppose, means that the Cyclone upper sprocket is deflecting some of the balls upward. I did have 1 chopped ball and several barrel breaks. When the hopper was empty, the barrel was clean, with the front bolt-area of the receiver and the exit of the Cyclone showing a tiny amount of paint.
1. WAS is shipping the boards, and the delivery time is reasonable.
2. The board fits the stock E-Grip slots and grooves, but requires a little patience to get it in, due to slight differences is sizes and wire lengths.
3. Programming the WAS required initial consultation with a printed copy of the on-line manual. The correspondence between the manual and the real thing are close enough to figure it out. Since there are only two settings that require any attention, I found it fairly easy to learn the sequence. Remembering to turn the darn thing off when I'm done firing will probably require some extensive battery-purchase therapy.
4. Within the range of settings tested (which included dry firing at 30 bps), the board seems to perform AS ADVERTIZED.
5. Unless you know some special incantations, the stock Cyclone is not likely to do much better than 18 bps.
6. Keep in mind that going from the 13 bps firing rate cap of the stock E-Grip to 17 bps is more than a 30% increase in useable, no-nonsense genuine firepower.
2nd EDIT: Using a QEV (quick evacuation valve) on the Cyclone piston allowed the A-5 to achieve a consistent 20 bps. My video of this is now available on the WAS Web site.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, September 30th, 2005 at 7:54 pm PST
Will not shoot full auto without firing 3 shots first
This board came stock in my new Tippmann Egrip, and this is by far the worst product ever marketed by Tippmann. Not being able to shoot full-auto immediately is a big disadvantage in woodsball. There is times when full-auto is needed right away, not after shooting 3 shots first. Also after shooting full-auto, half the time the switch sticks on and keeps firing out of control for 5-6 seconds.
I would recommend that NOBODY buy this board, Tippmann should be ashamed to have these in their E-grips.
A-5, LP Kit, Boomstick & Ultrallite barrels, polished internals, WAS Equalizer, JCS dual trigger, red hot power tube, superfly bolt, CP reg, 68/4500 Crossfire on a Shocktech drop w/ Empire Quick Flip.
Easy to program and operate.
Great customer support from WAS
Wires glued, not soldered
Once all set up... While in ramping mode I'm getting 17 bps.
The programing is very user friendly, and doesn't take to long to get used to.
17 bps may not sound like a big difference from a stock e-grip, but believe me, you will notice the difference.
*** Just a note. As far as upgrading the cyclone feeder w/ a QEV kit to speed up the feeder. I bought one from Palmers, and it actually lowered its performance. It wouldn't even keep up in semi-auto.
The bad is that I'm on my second WAS board. And had problems with runaway firing in both. I've tried ever kind of set up. IE- Pining the trigger asm., different bend angles of the switch arm, different grip asm., trigger springs, dwell all the way up... you name it.
In Semi-auto I can set my stock board and trigger combo way better than w/the WAS.
In semi-auto, beter off w/ stock board. The run-away firing is very anoying.
Unless you really need the PSP ramping mode, I wouldn't bother.
5 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, March 15th, 2006 at 4:37 pm PST
lapco bigshot 8in. with mock silencer
68/4500 carbon fiber pure energy
jcs jet click
4in. drop forward with on/off
350 rd hopper
The piece of mind you get knowing u don't have to turn it off.
Three shot then full auto/ 1 shot full auto stick
I went through a good ten cases of balls before it started acting up. I had heard rumors of it sticking on full tilt auto. The first time it happened was during a game. It stuck ,so i unscrewed the tank. I screwed it back in pulled the lever back pulled the trigger a few times and it stuck again. At this point i went kamikaze and got shot pretty quick. I tried messing with the grip with no results. I talked to one guy who's sent his back to tippmann 6 times. I didn't want to go through the trouble so i got a the APE rampage board.
This product is only worth buying if you have to buy it for the e-grip shell it comes with, so you can upgrade to the rampage board. Then use it as a back up.
2 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007 at 10:31 pm PST
Just purchased a Rampage board to replace the Equalizer board
A5 with flatline, electronics, stock, remote line tac strap
Various firing modes, low battery indicator, Tippmann support.
Runaway firing, auto off feature, difficult to change firing modes or program.
I only had this product for about three months before it started acting up. Somehow, in the research I did before purchasing it, I missed the comments about the runaway firing issues many of the boards develop. Maybe we just hear what we want to hear sometimes. It started off as one or two extra balls shooting after I release the trigger. Almost not even enough for me to really pay it much attention. Then one day the flood gates opened and there was just no stopping it. I went onto the forums to try to find a simple solution, but nothing worked. I adjusted dwell, debounce, and bent the trigger switch in numerous directions trying to regain control of the marker. The only mode that would work (safely) was semi automatic. I had a semi-auto marker prior to purchasing this board. I didn't need to spend $90 to make a lateral move.
If the runaway issue was the only problem that I had, then I might have tried having Tippmann correct it (although from what I've read, they seem to revert back to the issue shortly after), but other issues with the board made me decide that perhaps this was not worth my time.
I got burned one too many times with the auto shut-off feature. It's a nice idea in theory, to save some battery power... but it doesn't work in practice when you've been crawling up on the opposing team for the last 40 minutes only to spring the trap and realize your gun won't shoot. It's a rather humbling experience to ambush somebody and then have to dive back down to the ground and root around in the dirt for a stick that's small enough to turn it back on while hundreds of rounds of paint are now coming your direction.
Don't get me wrong... it has plenty of features, and if you're usually only playing 20 minute capture the flag games, you'll probably be fine so long as it doesn't develop other issues. Unfortunately for me, the honeymoon phase ended rather quickly.
I honestly can't say that I would recommend this to anybody. I think above any of the minor annoying features I consider it to have, safety can be a real concern with this board. We've all seen the moron who accidentally fires a round off near a group of people who are in a designated "safe" area and not required to wear their goggles. Now imagine that same moron accidentally firing off a round, but being unable to stop...
E-Grip w/ W.A.S Board
4 piece Empire Barrel Kit
PMI Remote Line
Pure Engergy 20oz Co2
Instructions are a bit hard to follow.
Can't change modes on the fly
I replaced my GTA response trigger with a GTA E-Grip with W.A.S. board and wow, I was blown away. I can not believe how fast the grip makes my A-5. With it set on Turbo, this turns the A-5 into pure destruction. I haven't had any problems with my stock cyclone feed, though I do plan on upgrading to a QEV and a Vortex kit.
One very nice thing about the W.A.S board is that in now comes in the GTA e-grip standard for $100, very nice.
I am a bit concerned about moisture and rain, as one should be. I held on to my reponse trigger so as the seasons change, my A-5 can adapt. Its very easy to switch between the two, and only takes a few minutes.
I have also had an occasion or two in long games were the grip turns itself off to save batteries, which is great. However, one should carry a small allen wrench or hope a small twig is nearby to turn the grip back on.
I loved my A-5 before this, and now I simply adore it. I am glad I went this route instead of the E-2 on my cocker (not that it isn't sweet either) but pulling out an A-5 with that kind of fire power is just....(grunts like Tim Allen)....
Tippmann Custom Pro ACT E Camo:
14" Sp Progressive Barrel
Cyclone Feed System
Ricochet R-5 Hopper
TechT Vortex Mod
APP Rubber Fore Grip
Fast, Easy Install, Push Button
Weak wires, Battery life/ Picky on battery sizes
This grip is great!
The only problems I had with this were the wires & the battery life. I bought this and dropped it right into my gun (No soldering!!). I have it capped at 15 on my gun until i get the Qev and Vortex for the cyclone. After the quick install I aired it up and fired it on NXL full auto with no skips/chops.
ROF Cap: 20
P.S. works best with Energizer max 4 me (other batteries were to fat)
Great Product! worth the buy
9 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, August 25th, 2007 at 10:32 am PST
The accuracy of this review is disputed. Please see discussion on the comments page.
Period of Product Use:
Less than a month
2 of 4 people found this review helpful.
More than 5 years
Similar Products Used:
Only baord upgrade ive used
tippann pro e
was equalizer baord
act anti chop bolt
20 oz c02
Unlimmitted ROF what i have heard
i got up to 21bps
None i could think of
I got this board put it on my tippy i loved this board incredibly fast i got upto 21bps thats pretty impressive i also used it in front of my friends they would not bellieve it was shooting that fast i was pretty amazed and you will be to when you get to check it out im buying a cyclone feed to go along with it this is a must if you have the money go buy it take my word.
Asome very fast buy it as soon as you get the money you will not regret it.
Tippmann A-5 with Flatline, Expanshion Chamber, E-trigger , 3pt. Sling, remote coil, tactical vest
Higher rate of fire than the original Board
Requires 3 single shoots to initiate full auto or 3 shot burst
Board is good and all but the higher rate of fire really isnt worth it I would prefer to have the original board not the W.A.S. Has the same firing modes as the original but you cant use full auto or 3shot burst right away you have to "ramp" it up pulling the trigger 3 times quickly to intiate these modes. THAT FEATURE SUCKS!!!!!! when you want to ambush someone or suprise attack on the field you cant just spray a squad of paintballers with full auto, you have to shoot the 3 single shoots which gives them too much time to react .... bummer!! turbo works fine though that the only mode i use cause its the only mode that i can shoot quickly ,... quickly :) (fires on trigger pull and release) combine with a double trigger and that works for me just still wish i had the original board! Only advantage is the upgraded ROF (rate of fire) i think from 13 up to 17 now (cant do 30 like it says with out missfires or chops). But you will NEVER need this many balls its just a WASTE OF PAINT!! even specialopspaintball.com (reputable team) dont shoot over 7BPS!!! its just marketing propaganda!! on the other hand i have to say its more adjustable than the original, but 98% wont change the factory settings cause they set them perfectly and to their fastest reliable limit.
Good board havent had problems with it ORIGINAL I THINK IS BETTER!!! YOULL never be able to or use the advertised 30 B.P.S!!! its just marketing we all think a higher number is better for some reason. get the original e-grip or just use turbo mode.
98 Custom Pro CAMO
14" All American Barrel
Cyclone Feed System
E-Grip w/WAS Board
This product does everything its suppose to. It works like a charm!!! A++ product!!!
Difficult assembly. Other than that, there are no weaknesses.
This is a very nice E-Grip WAS. It is very fast and has five different firing modes to choose from. Although the price may seem a little steeeep, it is well worth the money. Once installed, I immediately took it into my backyard and did a field test. All I can say is WOW, this thing blew away the old e-grip, and was very stable. I am amazed with its firing power, and with a decent hopper you can't overshoot. If you have the money I recommend this as a GOOD upgrade to any Tippmann marker.
If you have the money buy this egrip, it is well worth the money spent. Oh yeah!