This board takes all DM4/5/c Chips.
You NEED a dmr/5/c chip for this to work!
LCD is not supported.
Full color spectrum on LED.
Comes with needed power strap.
Never reflash again, swap chips with friends to find the perfect programming for you!
The bottom button becomes the power, the top button is the eye on/off.
The Lucky Paintball Angel UN1chip Board is older, so while it may be available used and in a few cases new, it is not commonly available anymore.
I just got this board last night, and i love it!!!!! It makes it very easy to outshoot a victory boarded halo. Haven't had time to play with getting eyes yet, but they are planned in the near future. I got scenario dreams dmt chip and that's a very nice chip for the price.
The stock opto board, as well as several other types of angel board, all of which I sold after finding this little gem.
Liquid Blue Dark Angel G7 Fly with 691 lucky 15 barrel, gangstared vlocity hopper, Un1 lucky board, and Nox "Hip" chip
Tippmann A-5 (for rec ball) With starfire front bolt, red aluminum power tube, polished internals, 14in CP barrel (And a Flatline), and e-grip
In review body (man i hate the 15 word limit)
In review body
The only chip i have tried out for this board is the Nox "Hip" chip, which is essentially just like a $30 virtue-Tadao board.
I recently went on a upgrade binge for all the paintball electronics I had, and the Un1 board caught my eye. Now I have to say that this is probably the BEST $50 i have ever spent in my entire life. This board is extremely reliable, and can take ANY chips for the DM4/5/C, the vast majority of which are less than $50 bucks, and can STILL out perform almost ALL "complete" boards, such as the Opto, Virtue, and Tadao, and can do so for about half the price.
But not all chips are as good as the one I mentioned, and you DO need to be careful about what chips you get. My advice would be to grab a Nox chip, as it EASILY keeps up with, and even outperform just about every board currently in existence, even the legendary Tadao.
However, you DO need to be careful about installing and un-installing any of the chips that you buy, as the little prongs can become bent, and are VERY difficult to get back into the proper position.
I have at one point or another used or owned all of the boards i have just mentioned, and i still sold them all.
Compatible with ALL dm4/5/c chips
Full spectrum LED makes programing very easy.
New chips are cheap, and offer at the very least the same performance as boards like Tadao and Virtue
Only place that sells e'm is fixmyangel.com
Some dm4/5/c chips just flat out suck.
Installing chips can be a problem if you don't have needle nose pliers.
Update! (Wednesday, June 20th, 2007)
I have just noticed an unintentional side-effect of my new lucky board. On the stock Opto board, trigger pulls were created when a prong attached to the back of the trigger passed through a laser, distrupting the beam, and telling the board to fire. This meant that if the trigger started swinging with any amount of force, the gun would fire, making it very dangerous to walk around with. Whenever i dove into bunkers, if my tank-gun clipped the edge, it would fire. Very bad. The problem was that the weight of the trigger it's self caused the trigger to gain momentum, to much for the magnetic trigger to resist, and since no additional friction or resistance was placed on the trigger, it would have nothing to stop it.
However, the UN1 (lucky) board operates on a micro-swich principle, meaning that it generates an almost undetectably small amount of resistance. This resistance is so low that it won't affect your firing speed, but still high enough to prevent unintentional activations.
This is the last board you will ever need to buy.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, June 20th, 2007 at 11:12 pm PST
The accuracy of this review is disputed. Please see discussion on the comments page.
Period of Product Use:
0 of 5 people found this review helpful.
More than 5 years
Similar Products Used:
I used Tadao boards/chips in my DM and Timmy markers. Frenzy 127.4 for Dark Timmy
A4 w/upgrades, Speed w/upgrades, DM4 & DM5 w/Tadao chip, 05 Dark Timmy w/127.4 Frenzy, 04 ND Timmy w/Tadao board : Angels use Freak kit, The rest use Dye Titanium boomstick or Dye UL bbl. All use Crossfire LP tanks & Empire b reloaders
I never got it to work like it should
No instructions. What are DIP switch and DM chip positions?
I'm trying to install the Lucky board into a Angel LCD. Had to cut a tab of the board off to make it fit. Also had to cut and bend switch lever to make contact with trigger. This is Lucky board #1. It came w/o the 9 volt battery harness. Emailed online store and am still waiting (2 weeks so far). Found another new Lucky board complete. (Lucky board #2). Took the battery harness from it to plug into #1 board which was already mounted and just waiting for the battery harness. With the Lucky board you need a DM type chip. I took the one I had in my DM5. Check this out. The DM chip has 9 pairs of pins. The L board has 10 pairs of holes. I know to mount the chip so that the "notch" is facing to the rear of the trigger frame. But which set of holes? I leave open a pair of holes to the left. I attach a new battery and the solenoid clicks once and a red led is on. I push the bottom red button (on/off) nothing changes. I push the upper red button (eyes on/off) nothing changes. I removed battery. I look at both boards. They ARE NOT IDENTICAL. #2 board has all 4 dip switches in "OFF" position (LB#1 all "ON")and LB#1 is missing a chip near the bottom screw hole. #2 board's red buttons are almost flush with the switch body. #1 board's buttons are definately protruding 1/8'. Found help on other PB site. Still same. I got over 25 years exp working on high speed machines as a mechanic so I'm pretty sure the boards I got are not right. I emailed Lucky in the UK. Still waiting... going on 2 weeks.
CHECK IT BEFORE YOU MODIFY IT TO FIT! I bought this board because I heard that its really good. But what are the odds of getting 2 faulty ones? If you still insist on getting one for your Angel, the dip switches should ALL be in the "ON" position and the empty pair of pin holes for the DM chip should be to the left of the chip.