RAP68 Tactical Paintball Shotgun, the first .68 caliber paintball shotgun available on the market today. It has features that replicate a real shotgun for the most realistic experience. The RAP68 Tactical Paintball Shotgun is a .68 caliber marker that shoots regular paintballs, and can be used at any field! The unit is built with a 10 round integral magazine. Pump the forearm, pull the trigger and it will shoot one paintball at a time. This action provides the most realistic experience for scenario games and police tactical entry training. Standard features include a flip-up front sight and adjustable rear sight, a Weaver-style tactical rail for mounting accessories, and an extendable M-16-style stock to make the RAP68 as real as possible. It is a scaled version of the FN Tactical Police Shotgun. The RAP68 Tactical Paintball Shotgun is powered by a refillable 45g cylinder hidden inside the stock. This power source delivers more than 50 shots between fills. Additional power source options are available by removing the buttstock to attach a high pressure air bottle or a standard CO2 cylinder, such as the tiny 3.5oz tank or a huge 24oz tank for the greatest shot capacity. The RAP68 air system is versatile and can be configured to any playerï¿½s needs depending on their rate of fire and choice of accessories.
The RAP68 Tactical Paintball Shotgun muzzle velocity is adjustable from 200 to 380 feed per second, with a maximum range of 300 feet.
RAP68 Tactical Paintball Shotgun is a one-of-a kind training tool for law enforcement as well as the many private security sector. The RAP68 can also be used by police officers and the military to deliver non-lethal and less-lethal projectiles such as rubber balls, OC Balls, and powder balls. The RAP68 is a training tool and useful for riot and crowd control, or with standard paintballs and velocity set to 300fps or slower, is ideally suited for your paintball gaming!
1 - Shotgun
1 - 45 gram refillable CO2 tank w/ buttstock
1 - hard case
1 - manual
1 - cleaning kit
1 - tool kit
1 - bottle of lubricant
1 - warranty card
The Real Action Paintball FNH 68 Shotgun is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
The accuracy of this review is disputed. Please see discussion on the comments page.
Period of Product Use:
Less than a month
41 of 48 people found this review helpful.
More than 5 years
Similar Products Used:
Other Pump actions, but this one has some unique defining points.
Stock class pump, Training tool, or Scenario Marker.
Many new features for pump markers
Stock Barrel Very Large Bore
No auto trigger
I eagerly anticipated the Arrival of my Ram68 Shotgun. Being an avid hunter I was very happy to get a gun similar to my Winchester 12 gauge. I will try to remain as unbiased as possible and just review said marker
I will break this review down into 5 categories (Looks and cosmetics, Features/special attributes, Shooting and related, Air and related, and Durability and maintenance), each with a potential of two points to be given or taken away.
If it were not for the orange tip, this marker would look almost 100% identical to a Real FN shotgun.
Now on most pumps the somewhat resemble a pump action shotgun have a very short pump stroke making them look unrealistic, this marker however has the full length pump stroke when cocked.
-<FETURES / SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES>-
The Ram68 comes with an under-gun tube magazine. Each .68 cal ball is pushed into the magazine by hand (replicating the reload of a real shotgun) which is spring loaded and has a spring pin that holds the paint and does not let them fall out unless the pin is depressed. You can get it in 10 ball capacity or 16 ball capacity versions (relative also on length of barrel, ex. the 16 ball capacity version comes with a 16 inch barrel.)
Of course if you get the 16 ball version and you want to play stock class you can always put a plug behind the spring in the magazine (like hunting regulations often do to shotguns) to cap the capacity of the magazine off early, like at 10 balls for example.
It has fully adjustable iron sites for range and wind adjustment. The front sight can be folded down for transportation or otherwise. It also had a rail for mounting dot sights and scopes on, and since it fires a 68 cal paintball these could be used by someone willing to take the time to set them.
The ram68 Shotgun has a switch to turn on or off bolt lock, the advantage to this would be to stop the marker from firing when out of ammunition and to stop the ball from rolling out of the barrel.
Another new thing was a little tiny purple tab on the asa that would come out about half a centimeter if the marker was gasses up, it was not necessary but was helpful if you were just picking the marker up and didn’t know if it had air in it.
-<SHOOTING AND RELATED>-
The accuracy of this marker was decent, but the stock barrel was very large bore, and I do not think there are aftermarket barrels available for it at this time. This made the range of paint you could use with precision smaller. Also it would not Auto Trigger.
Also since the pump travel was full lenth to a 12 guage people used to normal .68 cal pumps will have to watch out for short stroking it and chopping a ball.
Reloading was a bit slow, but this was to simulate the actual operation of the Fire arm it was designed after.
You could not reload it with ten round tubes, which I found a bit annoying, but this is not exactly a flaw in the design, a 12 gauge shotgun was not designed to have its shells injected with a giant plastic tube.
One cool thing about shooting it that distinguished it from other pumps was the Bolt lock switch as I Stated before under features. This made the marker have the selectable option to have the ball not roll out the barrel and for it to stop firing co2 when the marker did not have a paintball in the chamber thus saving air.
-<AIR AND RELATED>-
Some people ask me “Where does the tank go on that gun?” and I point to the butt stock. The co2 tank is a reliable 45 or 60 gram co2 with a built in on off. These tanks are low profile and fit into either a collapsible stock or solid stock concealing it from sight. On a ram68 I use a 60 gram, which is good for up to 100 shots. That is probably a day of pump play if you are conservative.
The Ram 68 can use co2 or compressed air. The gun itself was pretty efficient as pumps usually are, and as I also said under features it has the tab that tells you if the gun is gassed up. This feature makes the gun safer without having to spend extra to get a regulator with gauge.
Adjusting velocity was a bit tricky, but not anything to get mad over. To adjust the velocity you have to take needle nose pliers and unscrew a brass plate in the asa and use an Allen key to turn a screw, this is much like the velocity adjustment we see on auto cockers.
-<DURABILITY AND MANTINENCE>-
This Marker was built very sturdy, it is all metal except for the pump handle, Pistol grip, and butt stock which were impact proof polymer. The result is a very rugged pump action marker.
Maintenance was very simple, keep it clean and oiled and it will work. There is not 1000 little O-rings and springs that fly everywhere when you open it to worry about. It is farley simple.
Both the barrel and tube magazine could be cleaned with a squeegee if they need be, and it broke down like a real shotgun, which is good for anyone who is experienced with them in hunting.
Unfortunately this marker is called a “Shotgun” but can only replicate one large solid projectile (like a slug), but cannot shoot with a scattershot.
The weight and feel are all there for experienced shotgun users, and since there is no tank or hopper sticking out it makes for an interesting and maneuverable tool for recreational and scenario players alike.
If you get a 12 gram changer and either a 10 round version or put a plug in the magazine you can use it for stock class play, it costs less than most high end pumps but will lack in certain departments as rate of fire compared to pumps with an auto trigger.
Based on the reviewed material I give it a _9/10_ for being a well rounded pump action with many strong points, few weak points, and some cool new features.
If you think something should be added to this review or disagree with the opinions within it please email me at Travis@Hitmanpaintball.ca
9 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, November 26th, 2006 at 6:41 am PST
Phantoms (same basic operation)
KP2 (pump rifle, similar layout)
KP2SC Pistol Stock
PPS Custom K-Pug
-Autococker spring kit
-Looks & Feel
-Under barrel loading
-Confused as to who this is made for?
First a little about me:
I prefer compact simple guns, pumps & pistols.
I prefer simple reliable operation over feature rich newfanglenes.
Anyone see the new RAP4 shotgun?
Yes, I remember those threads that poped up in every pump forum across the web. I was there too...wondering, waiting, wanting to get my hands on one to see for myself. Like many I kept an eye on PBReview hoping that someone would give a real review...nothing but the usual.
In the spring of 2007 I had the oppertunity to touch and feel this gun, I admit that I felt a bond with it right away. I was/am currently shooting a KP2, so picking up the RAP4 was something like "That ain't a knife...THIS is a knife". Well it turned out that it was leaky and for sale, Thinking that I would fix it up (ha!) it became mine.
I got the longest model made, 18" barrel and a car stock. 1st off the air tank is a joke, no burst disk, no DOT. However if you want to use the stock you need to fill the tank or use the "spare air" throw away co2's. So far I have used it with a remote line directly into the ASA. Currently I am looking at ways to change the ASA location to Island style, "VSC" style or into a wooden stock.
Almost threw it away, came close to smashing it into scrap a few times & I really wished I had not bought it, all that was before I had even got it to hold air. The process of breaking this thing down is proof that it was never intended to shoot paint. I am sure this gun is great for poly balls & pepper balls but those guys dont have to chroro or use FPO.
So who is it for?
Milsim guys? Maybe but IMO the hardcore milsim's want a bit more than a limited paint pump gun.
Pump players? Doubt it, though it is a pump it is also about 4' long and you can not load it with 10 round tubes...hand load one at a time.
[Long dark nights in the lab]
Endless spring work and adjustments, every change forcing me to rebuild, test, tear down, change spring, adjust, rebuild, test...You get the point. Dremel / JB Weld projects to correct the sear contacts & saftey clearance. Hours looking for the tiny tiny spring that shot across the room. Finding out that every MF'n cup seal & power tube I own ALMOST fits in this gun.
Ok so in the recent weeks I finally got this sucker working. It is shooting low (220) but steady. I have had to mess with springs a lot, though it is a nelson style valve the spring tension adjustment is at the valve spring...not the main spring (total PITA).
NOTE TO USERS: The bulk of the "chopping" issues can be solved by understanding exactly how the "bolt lock" works. When the bolt lock is ON there is a metal piece with two "teeth" that is pushed down into the breech (at 1st glance it looks like a detent). The first tooth is 90* and designed to stop the bolt from moving forward into the breech area(of course this will stop the bolt sear from coming in contact with the trigger sear, and make the marker unable to fire). The 2nd tooth is a nice smooth incline and serves dual uses; (1) it stops multiple balls from entering the breech when the bolt is open (think autococker) and (2) As the bolt is closed the ball hits the large angled tooth, pushing past it the 90* tooth is also raised, and with the 90* out of the way the bolt can now close 100% (and of course align the two sears making the trigger active)
So what happens?
Someone cocks the marker with no paint & bolt lock on:
Pull the trigger and nothing happens.
Try to recock the marker and the anti-double feed locks the pump.
Squeeze the crap out of the trigger untill you bend the weak linkage.
Remembers to turn bolt lock off, pushes pump forward & fires.
Now add paint to the mix (rollout, misfeed, etc) and you can see just how fast you could end up with multiple balls in the barrel or breech breaks.
Loading it by hand on the field is a huge but rewarding challange. To reload you 1st activate the spring loaded ball feed latch by pressing it in and releasing (if the tube is partially filled you will loose the 3or so balls that are past the feed detent). This exposes the end of the feedtube and balls are inserted one at a time into it and past a small detent. In order to push the ball past the detent you really need to stick your thumb a ways into the tube, Because of this I have found it hard to hold more then 2-3 balls in my loading hand. Finding a good way to carry loose paint is hard, keeping it clean is even harder. I used a belt pouch with about 20 loose balls inside, I then carried a few 10 round tubes that could be dumped into the pouch if needed. Finding a good way to reload this marker; without risking a fragile bag of paint on your waist, will require some custom designed gear.
The springfeed itself is pretty strange, unlike anything I have ever seen. When you reload it you dont "lock back" the spring feed, like you would on a Zeus...You are compressing the spring with each ball (and hoping the detent does not let loose).
If you get the spring compressed enough and 1 ball slips past the detent, you can expect it to eject half the balls. The spring itself is poor quality and a lot shorter then I expected. the setup is this:
-A large pusher insert (like the thing that pushes the ball in a Zeus, only bigger and with a nylon cord sticking out of it(
-A light wire spring (the cord runs through the spring)
-A rubber bumper on the end of the cord
That "pusher" looking piece is inserted into the lower tube, there is a channel milled into the bottom side of the lower tube, that channel allows the "pusher" to be connected to the pump handle. Every time you pull the pump back; you compress the spring, feeding the ball. When you push the pump forward the cord pulls the spring back to normal. When you get down to the last 2-3 balls they are no longer in the springfeed, they are past the detent. Thats where the spring/pump connection does something pretty cool...The rubber headed spring on a string hits the ramp as it comes out of the tube and makes a 90* turn to push the ball up into the breech. The downside is that; as it is pulled back into the tube, the spring gets snagged and deformed a bit.
Speaking of the pump handle, it too is unique. Most pumps require you to pull the pump roughly less than 1'', just enough to move the bolt back to allow a ball to fall (and at the same time cock the striker). With the RAP4; as you pull the pump back; there is a little play in the "pump arm"...so the 1st 1/2" or so is JUST the pump handle moving. The next 1" or so of travel is just the pump handle & pump arm, At that point you contact the bolt and start the "real" pump stroke. All this adds up to the longest pump stroke I have ever experienced, though the 1st part of the stroke has no resistance. I think the addition of a return spring on the lower tube (carter style) would make it feel more solid.
So far no busted balls (used RPS Marbs) and only a few minor problems to work out (power tube is a bit long, causing balls to roll over the exposed tip).
Though there is nothing about this gun that is quality, there is something about the feel that makes it worth shooting.
If 5 is average, this thing is a 3 on a count that it is not ready out of the box, construction is sub-par (think Brute internals) and teardown/adjustment is insane.
But somehow I still think it COULD be great.
*** I have raised my rating to a 5 from a 3, Though I still do not think the quality is up to par...I have to give it a bit of slack since mine was used (and sold as is, leaking)***
5 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, November 15th, 2007 at 7:37 am PST
Not designed for beginners, stripping is a chore. Plastic parts. Stock sights bad.
First of all, I bought this gun with the knowledge that it might be a real task. I have heard many people complain of barrel breaks, bad feeding, leaks and so on. After seeing three firsthand, I decided to take the risk.
The gun is a terrific simulation tool. It reloads the same way a pump shotgun does, and the pump stroke is as long as a 12ga. However, it is obviously not designed to be a competitive paintball gun. Reloading is slow, it is unwieldy and heavy.
When I first gassed it up and shot, it did in fact break balls. I was using Xball Bronze and field grade Procaps.
The solution was a simple one. I undid the sling mount at the front of the gun and unscrewed my barrel. Looking at the barrel lip where it connects to the breech, I could see a slight deformation. This would not have any impact on a normal pump, but the RAM68 is a unique platform.
Pay close attention to this! The ball sits about a quarter inch back from the barrel when the gun is cocked and ready to fire. That means that when you shoot the gun, the ball flies forward and must make its way past the barrel's entrance without breaking. If you have a tightbored barrel, a glued in detent ring or the slightest deformity at this transition point you will have barrel breaks.
Smooth down the transition by beveling the barrel's lip. While you are at it, paint some nail polish just in front of the bolt in the breech to stop rollouts. (By the way, keep bolt release ON. It can be a pain in the ass using bolt lock.)
The gun is now shooting fairly hard and accurately. I'm quite happy with it overall.
 - I've made an excellent modification to my bolt. I took it out and milled a starfire pattern into its face in order to better disperse the gas jet upon firing. At high velocities, the gun occasionally blew up balls at the bolt because of the concentrated burst, and the starfire cuts have eliminated this problem entirely.
[edit x2] - I've now made a more complicated mod to the body, trigger linkage and feed system to bring the bolt forward about a quarter inch. Balls are now no longer seated in the pre-barrel breech. This has also enabled me (after some barrel modification) to use CCI detent rings. This mod (#7) is detailed in the following link. I highly recommend it if you can handle the work.
Link to Shotgun mod page: http://rap4.com/paintball/forum/index.php/topic,10732.0.html
With some precautionary modification to the breech area, the RAM68 is a great and unique gun. I take points away for some construction aspects such as the field stripping and plastic components. Also, the initial quality wasn't the best and resulted in the dented barrel lip that caused breakage. I am quite happy with the gun now and I highly recommend it to anyone with a decent working knowledge of pump action markers. I would never in a million years suggest that a new player (with no capability to modify the gun) buy it. Stay away if you can't handle basic mods.
Rating out of the box: 7
The rating goes up, the more mods are done to the gun. At this point after completely reworking the bolt and trigger linkage I am very content. If the gun came this way I would rate it a 9.
7 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, December 14th, 2007 at 2:11 am PST
I currently shoot a
A-5A-203 with a J&J
98 custom M16 with a stiffi
And my favorite the RAP4 Tactical Shotgun
More tanks if you plan on useing the stock. I also recomend a new change of pants once you play with this thing.
Realism, Weight, Intergrated tank, fully adjustable and tunable, Police issue,used at any feild
This gun has only been out for a month, I cant complain about anything!
This gun is absolutely amazing!!! If you could spare the cash i would get one right now. This has sparked my interest in Stock class markers and games. Imagine the only thing you have to carry is a gun, no tank and especially no hopper, because of the integrated tank, and the paintballs being held inline under the barrel, you have neither of these factors to worry about, just clean fun. LIGHT AND TIGHT PLAYERS WILL LOVE THIS GUN. It weighs 5.5 lbs empty and a little over 6lbs when it is full of paint and air. I get about 60 shots per tank fill. And when your empty you can just switch to any other tank you own (without the stock of course). Now one of the coolest options with this gun is your can run a remote and have one of the coolest CQC or CQB guns. When you pump the shotgun the slide moves and exposes the paintball as its loaded into the breech, aim with the fully adjustable flip up iron sights, and pull the trigger. There is a reason this was made, for all shotgun lovers out there this is one of a kind i would get it ASAP.
Built well, Strong, and reliable so far I cant help but to give this gun to ultimate 10! Mind you that no other gun merits a 10.
Ion with body kit
clamp feed neck
and some other guns
man like a red dot sight would be cool or a pad for the stock
Made out of like steel and it has the good kind of plastic
Sort of wish it has a hopper attachment that would be cool
Man this gun is heavy so u know it has good STEEL parts, and it has a wavered body so u can mount stuff such as flaslight or scope, don't need a hopper or lots of pods ( maby a few in your pocket but other then that all u need it this gun. And it looks so real noobs will be afraid to play with you, so real u could probably rob a store.
Aswome.. and the best thing is for me is all i had to do was pay 20 $ for this, I guess the guy gave it to me for like free except for shipping , it should get more then a 10
Since I bought this marker a little more than a month ago I have had nothing but problems with it. I was incredibly excited by the idea that after years of waiting for a fully self-contained marker, one would be designed exactly as I wanted it to. Then it arrived. It looked awesome it felt great, and the valve that they sent me to fill the flexi-air system did not work. I attempted to play with the bottle screwed directly into the back of the marker, but it started chopping balls (good, hard woodsballs (Marballizers) not cheap paint), I tried adjusting the velocity and different paint but the marker still won't function as it should. Every time I try and play with it I spend the majority of my time trying to get the marker to work instead of actually getting to play. It is a pain to clean and if you break the first or second ball, your whole magazine is shot unless you bust out a squeegee in the middle of the game and clean your barrel (and then you accuracy is still compromised).
Buy a Tippmann or other brand and customize it how you want, it will save you time and money in the long run.