Smart Parts Shocker NXT
WGP 05 Prostock Autococker
Easy to work with
RF chips are $35 per marker
UPDATE 3/16/2007 - The initial review I made was based on using the loader in Pulse mode. I have since installed an RF chip in my gun. See the bottom for my notes regarding the difference RF mode made.
I was lucky enough to be loitering at my local paintball shop when the first shipment of DXS Pulses arrived. My first reaction was how nice they looked, but they looked a lot bigger then a Halo. I immediately grabbed a Reloader B from the shelf and did a comparison. The height, length and width of the two loaders are nearly indistinguishable. Weight was also very similar when using 6 AA's in each. Also almost identical was their capacity. A packed Dye locklid nearly fills each one to the brim.
The owner of the shop explained all the features of the Pulse and I decided to give it a try. I brought it home and put it on my marker. This is where I noitced the first difference between the Pulse and a Halo. The Pulse seemed to sit about a half an inch lower on the marker.
Loading it up with paint, I switched it on and threw it into pulse mode. I was immediately greeted by the constant pulsing of the motor. While it annoyed me at first (still quieter then a Vlocity) I quickly forgot it was even there. Also, I'd like to point out when the loader is in RF mode, the pulsing is reduced from every half second, to every 5 seconds. That's a 90% decrease in pulsing.
I brought my marker outside and fired off a few rounds to make sure the loader was feeding. So far so good. I started shooting faster with one finger, and then eventually two. The loader didn't miss a beat. It wasn't until I really started ripping on it from a dead stop that I noticed that occasionally there was a slight lag between when you started shooting and when the loader started feeding. This happens if you start shooting right after there is a pulse. At 15 bps you can get off 7-8 shots before the loader pulses again if you time it just right. This usually resulted in one or two shots being dropped, but once it did start feeding, it was awesome. I'd like to point out that if the loader was using RF mode, this also would be a non-issue.
I decided to test the consistancy of the loader so I refilled it and put my marker on 20 bps full auto and let her rip. It skipped a couple shots when I first held down the trigger (still using pulse mode, mind you) but once it kicked in it was easily the most consistant stream of paint I've ever shot. Way more consistant then my V35 with absolutely no slowdown.
I also forgot to mention one of the nicest things about the DXS Pulse is the removeable tray. While the Suicide shells for the Halo provide the same function, this is tool-less design. While I don't ever see myself hunched over behind a snake using my jersey to clean out the loader, it's still nice to be able to strip it and clean it as quickly as possible. I have very large hands so it was a tight squeeze to clean out the very front of the loader, but it was doable.
UPDATE 3/16/2007 - I finally got around to installing the RF chip in my Shocker about a month ago and it's been performing flawlessly. The RF chip was an easy installation and once it was in I simply synced up the marker according to the instructions and then hit the field. The maximum ROF is about the same (probably somewhere in the 25bps neighborhood) but the lag that I was occasionally experiencing is now completely gone. To test it I put my board on uncapped full-auto and pulled the trigger over and over. Each time the gun would unleash a hell-storm of paint without missing a beat. The dropped shots I experienced in this test when using Pulse mode were now gone. Very impressive.
So in conclusion, I'm completely happy with my new purchase. The price is slightly higher then most high end loaders, but in my opinion it's worth the extra money. While the DXS Pulse stands on its own in Pulse mode, I truely believe in RF mode it is the closest thing to a perfect loader we have seen so far. My only two gripes about the loader (the lag when shooting and the constant pulsing) are no longer problems since I installed my RF chip.
Simply put, the Pulse is awesome. As long as it holds up over the long run, I think this will be the new preferred loader for nearly every player out there. Starting with 10 points, I deduct 1 point for this reason: In pulse mode the loader is near perfect, deserving a 9. In RF mode the loader deserves a 10, however I deduct one point because the loader does not come with an RF chip and at $35 + install for each one, the cost of the loader quickly goes up, especially for people with a lot of markers.
However, let me reiterate: This is one hell of a loader and I believe it is a huge step above anything else on the market at the time of this writing. Go buy one!
9 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, March 16th, 2007 at 9:06 am PST
Ricochet AK- Not even close to this hopper. Way out of league.
Gravity Hoppers- hah, you have to be kidding me.
Smart Parts Ion(mostly stock...for now)
Evil Detonator Reg
WGP 20oz Air Tank
DXS Pulse Loader
Custom Painted Body (by me)
Sly Dual Carbon Fiber Barrel
SPEED, feedneck, bells and whistles
weight? RF module (see review)
Alright, lets get the weakness out of the way first (i barely think this is a weakness, but others may disagree). The Pulse, I have to admit, is rather heavy, especially when loaded with paint. Mainly because I am using 6 AA batteries. HOWEVER, there is an option for 2 9 volts which is WAY more light and WAY more convenient. Now I know you looked at weakness and saw "RF module" and thought, "what's this guy smoking?". Well let me explain. Its 35 bucks a piece for the thing, and its put into one marker. I dont know if you can switch it up to different ones, but the fact that its stuck in one marker makes it somewhat expensive if you have multiple ones.
Now thats out of the way, lets get to the good stuff.
This thing is wicked fast. Im not joking. We actually got 4 hoppers together: Halo, Ricochet, Vlocity, and Pulse. We put the same amount of paint in each, and drop tested them at the same time. Pulse took a huge lead, vlocity and halo took a very close 2nd and 3rd (respectively), and the ricochet was just blown out of the water. Put just a HANDFULL of paintballs in there, turn it on, and watch. You will just see them zip right outta there, you wont even know what happened.
Neck is cut down smaller than practically every other loader out there. Sits low enough for a low profile, but high enough so that you could still hit that reverse button. Make sure you have a good feedneck on your marker! This is crucial because the Pulse sits very low and has no O-ring's on the neck like the ricochet does. If you have a stock neck BE SURE TO GET A LOCKING ONE AS SOON AS YOU GET THE PULSE. First day I played with it, i had my stock neck on my ion. As soon as i dove, this thing was turned all the way around and half the neck was already coming off (which is bad. small feedneck+big loader= bad gameplay). But as soon as you get a good feedneck, this thing sits really low.
No need for a rip anymore. All you need is this little button on the bottom. Simply push it real fast, and it reverses the drive to get rid of the jam. The good thing is that it goes at a moderate rate. If you have a rip, then you could just muscle that thing as much as you want until you get the jam out. But there is a risk that you break paint too, so this button is a real help.
Six AA's or two 9-volts. I havent tried out the 9-volt option yet, but the AA's are heavy (as explained before). So how is this a strength you ask? Well, the Pulse can sit there for 4 hours, just spinning continuously until it dies (so i've heard). I plan to try this one day when i have extra batteries and no time. But so far, i've played with it for quite a while and it shows no signs of slowin down anytime soon.
Standard Magnetic Lid. Keeps it nice and snug so paint doesnt go flying out of your hopper when you dive into the 50 off the break. Good idea though, to break it in, cuz it is somewhat difficult to get open without some good force (or just get a speedfeed, works like a charm).
The shell is the hardest plastic ive seen. I watched videos of people jumping on them, pounding them, and even using it as a hammer. I of course was hesitant at first, but eventually decided to try it myself. I took a steel toe boot and kicked this thing against the wall. Not a dent or crack on it. There was a minor scratch because it was a concrete wall (stupid me), but hey, other than that microscopic scratch, the thing was still GOLD.
The drive train can fit into any pulse shell. My friend had a black shell, I had a smoke one. I wanted black, he wanted smoke. So, we take our drive trains out, swap shells and Badaboom, new hopper shells for both of us. (and in case your wondering "why didnt you just trade the whole hopper?", well its because he had his for a lot longer than me. And my drive train is new. I want to keep my drive train, but want his shell. So there ya go, im not an idiot, horray).
Alright here's where the good stuff comes in. I do not personally have one, but I have tried markers that have them installed. I personally see no difference (in semi, or other stock board settings) because either way, it still feeds fast as hell. But once you get into ramping and such, there is a difference. It makes the Pulse and your gun a lot more consistent with each other. I dont think im going to get one just yet. THe RF is something you might want to save when you have extra money and you are satisfied with your other upgrades.
Its perfect for the pulse. what more can I say? Its gentle on paint, and when it does break, its easy to clean the sucker out. not much here.
None of the above. Basically, you are free to use any kind of color paint you want so dont have to worry about dark colored paint not being fed. Or if your gun is like super ninja and makes absolutely no noise, then you still have no worries, cuz the Pulse delivers. Basically, if there is a space in your firing chamber, then the Pulse puts a paintball there. Simple as that. If its full (with a paintball), then the pulse "pulses" (every .5 second or every 5 seconds depending on what mode you are in), and waits for you to shoot.
Well that took a while to write, but hey, the Pulse deserves it. Its definately TOP OF THE LINE.
BUY THIS HOPPER! I know its expensive, but if you want to walk on the field with the best equipment, dont go out there with like an upped ego, tank, and a...halo. Go out there with a PULSE on your gun. You'll love it, your gun will thank you, and you speed fingered demons can go crazy with it. I think its definately the best out there.
I must say this is the PERFECT loader. DXS has taken the best aspects of other loaders and after market procuts and put them into one amazing piece of technology. To all you xball players out there, how difficult is it to clean a halo with broken paint in it during points? EXTREMLY hard. even if you have hyrbid shells you have to remove the screws clean and replace the screws. with the Pulse you just pull the internals out WITHOUT tools and your entire hand can fit into the loader with a cloth/paper towel. How bout a jam? everyone knows how horrible those can be. with the Pulse you do not need a rip drive to fix jams, just push a little button on the underside of hte loader and the paddle reverses, clearing the jam. Pulses also come with a shortened feedneck so you do not need to risk ruining your shells by cutting it. The battery life is 3 times longer than that of a Halo and it is also lighter. Made with thicker plastic, the pulse is extremely durable and resistant to cracking/breaking.
The Pulse is INSANELY fast and there are so many more features i havent listed
Buy one if you want the ultimate loarder, this is the culmination of loader technology and innovation
Let me say this before I start reviewing. You DON'T have to buy the RF chip for this hopper to work on your marker. There's two different modes. So you can still use the loader without the RF chip. Also, the RF chip DOESN'T have to be soldered onto the board. There's a company that makes a "harness" for the RF chip. It splits the wires going to the solenoid and allows you to attach the RF chip WITHOUT soldering. I'll post urls to websites, pictures, and videos in the Comments section.
Strong shell and a thick, short feed neck.
The shells made out of polycarbonate, the same material that goggle lenses are made of, so you know that it's going to be strong. I've only dropped mine once onto grass, so I can't say how tough the shell is, but there are videos of people standing on them and pounding nails into a board with the hopper, so it's a strong shell.
This hopper sits really low on my marker, which is great. The feed neck is nice and thick too. I'd imagine it being difficult to break the feed neck unless you really over tighten your clamping feed neck.
If you want to buy a different colored shell, you don't have to transfer all the mechanics of the hopper like you have to do with other loaders. All you have to do is snap the tray out of one hopper and put it in the other shell and you're ready to go.
All the mechanics can be removed in one large tray out the back of the hopper so now you don't have to unscrew the shells to clean them. There's only 5 screws holding the shells together, so if you do need to take the shells apart, it's not going to be that big of a deal. Also, the screws don't screw into the shell, they screw into a nut on the other half of the shell. There's no threading in the shells, so you don't run the risk of stripping the threading in the shells and needing to replace them. If you strip the nut, you can replace them separate from the shell.
The pulse can run off of 6 AAs or 1 9v, so if you're worried about weight, you can opt to use the 9v instead of the AAs. Also the 2 9v mod for the HALO will work on the Pulse I believe.
Electric Rip Drive
I haven't had a jamming problem with the Pulse yet, but when you do, all you have to do is press a little button on the bottom left of the loader to unjam it. The button causes the drive cone to spin in reverse, thus clearing the jam without the use of a Rip Drive. I wish the button was located more towards the center of the loader so reaching it when shooting left handed wouldn't be so awkward, but O' well.
Well this isn't necessarily a board issue, but the on/off button doesn't have a annoying membrane switch over it. They end up falling apart and looking like crap after a few months, and then they loose all their water proofing capabilities. The pulse doesn't have that problem. Although if you're worried about it not being water proof, I'd recommend just putting a small piece of electrical tap over the button.
The light that is used to differentiate between off, RF mode (Green mode), and Pulse mode (Red mode) is nice a bright so you don't have to sit there and block out the sun with one hand while squinting to see if the light is on.
The Pulse has two modes that it can function in. There's Green mode which requires you to have a RF chip installed in your marker. This sinks your hopper with your marker so every time you pull the trigger, the hopper feeds a ball. It's the same premise that the Reloader works off of, but instead of waiting for the hopper to "hear" the marker fire, the RF chip hi-jacks the signal from the board to the solenoid. So the hopper is reacting faster to you firing the marker than it would if it had to wait to "hear" the marker fire. In Green mode, the hopper waits for you to pull the trigger before it starts spinning. If you don't pull the trigger, the hopper will Pulse once every five seconds to ensure that there are balls in the stack.
Then there's Red mode. Red mode is what you use if you don't have an RF chip installed in your marker. The hopper pulses on the ball stack every .5 second (That would be twice every second) to ensure that there are balls in the stack. If it pulses and it doesn't feel any resistance, the hopper spins freely until there's resistance from the ball stack.
I use red mode on my EGO and thus far it's worked great. I've only had the hopper lag once and it was when I was shooting my marker in my back yard. It happened because the hopper pulses twice every second. So if you start shooting right after the hopper pulses and you're shooting at 15 BPS, you'll fire 6-8 balls before the hopper pulses again and realizes that there's no balls in the stack. I just happened to fire my marker right after it pulsed and that caused the delay in the feeding. This won't be a problem once I get the RF chip for my marker though and it really isn't a big deal now.
These modes eliminate the need for Break Beam eyes or sound sensors. That means that you don't have to worry about a ball breaking and covering up the BBEs or your hopper picking up the sound of somebody else's marker and trying to feed.
The Pulse is lighter than a Halo, but it still weights more than a VLocity. Weight really isn't that big of deal to me though, so this might bother someone else more than it bothers me. Also, I use 6 AAs in my Pulse, but I use the Energizer Lithiums. They weight 1/3 less than a normal AA and they last something like 5 times longer. Infrequent battery changes are a good thing. The Pulse does have a low batter signal though just in case you forget to change your batteries.
In my opinion the worst part of this loader is the lid. DXS says that the lid can close via the magnets, or if you want a tight fit, you can snap the lid all the way closed. The problem is that the magnets don't hold the lid down tight enough. You can barely shake the hopper and the lid opens. Well close it all the way then, right? Well the lid is so ridiculously difficult to open and close all the way. It's almost a two hand job to get the lid to close. So I sanded my lid down and now it closes wonderfully. If you get one and you need to sand it down, there's 2 little tabs on the underside of the lid towards the spring area. If you sand those down a bit, the lid fits much nicer.
No doubt, the Pulse is one of the most expensive hoppers at around $150 just for the hopper and another $35 for the RF chip. But considering all the extras that you get out of this hopper in comparison to the others, I think the price is justified.
This hopper is, by far, the best hopper that I've ever used. Sure it has it's weaknesses, just like any other hopper, but it's the strengths of this hopper that make it a must buy for anyone who wants a hopper that will never let them down.
Please check the comments section for URLs to websites that have the RF harness, as well as some pictures of it, and some videos of the pulse in action.
06 Eclipse Ego - XSV Board - Dark Ego Grip Frame
Pulse Loader - RF Chip Installed
Deadly Wind - 14' Carbon Fiber Whisper Barrel with Stainless Steel Freak Inserts
Crossfire - 48/4500 and 70/4500 HP Stubby Tanks
Never jams. Easy to clean. Super hard composite material. Synchronized with your gun -see review.
Some complain about price, battery life, or feednecks. I have not experience these problems.
There are two things that are TRULY UNIQUE about this loader.
Unique Thing #1.(Radio Frequency)RF Chip
You can purchase an RF Chip ($35) and install it in your (electronic) marker. The purpose of the chip is to synchronize your gun to the loader.
Here's how that's done in a nutshell...
When you shoot your (electronic) marker, your trigger sends a signal to the solenoid telling it to fire. The RF Chip actually intercepts this signal and sends a signal of its own to the loader telling it to start pushing another ball down the feedneck because there is about to be a vacancy. It does this for EVERY shot that is fired... even if your gun is ramping or on full-auto.
What this means to you...
There will never be a delay waiting for the next ball to load.
What this replaces...
Previous technologies include gravity (lame), agitators, built-in eyes, and sound activated mechanisms. All of which are inferior to the RF technology. Every time you pull the trigger, the loader starts doing its job before the gun fires the shot. There are no jams, there are no eyes to clean, there is mistaken noises making your loader work when it's not time.
Unique Thing #2. Removable Drive Motor
By pushing in the two buttons on the side of the loader, you can remove the drive mechanism from the rest of the shell.
What this means to you...
You can clean out the interior of the shell and the drive mechanism anywhere (even while you are playing a game). It's quick and easy and even a large hand can get all the way up in the shell to clean it out with a napkin or cloth.
What this replaces...
I used to use a Halo B and to clean that out, it required the removal of several small screws and I had to worry about putting it back together correctly. With the Pulse, it's the easiest thing ever. I clean my loader after every time I play (each day, not each game). I wouldn't have bothered with my Halo B.
Other Nice Perks
A handy button to push to make the drive motor reverse itself in case of a jam.
The reported 40+ bps loading speeds... Overkill? Sure, but better than underkill...!
It's basically the same size as halo for use with the speedfeed.
A very hard composite shell. (I weigh 190 and I've stood on mine to see if the reports were true.)
Battery life. I replace my batteries after every 2-3 days of use. (6 AA's)
Some people complain about weak feednecks. I haven't had this issue at all. PRICE $150 for the loader and another $35 for the RF Chip is a bit pricey when you can find a used Halo B out there that will do nearly the same job for about $100.
Availability - I've heard there is a lawsuit and only shops that have them in stock can still sell them. If you can still find one, get it now. If they lose, finding a new one will be next to impossible.
**update** Not 100% sure about what I'm talking about here, but I've heard...
Pulse loaders MAY not be allowed in certain (professional) tournaments because of some sort of rule stating that the hopper and marker must work independently. If you are a tourney player, I'd look into this further. If you know for sure, please post a comment.
In conclusion, the Pulse is a GREAT loader. It has some totally unique features that you will not find from any of its competitors. If you want the best, this is it... BUT, if price is an issue, you can pay half as much and get a used loader that will perform 90% as well.
I give this product a 10 because it provides features that no other loader offers.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, June 7th, 2007 at 9:05 am PST
Delrin Turtle Mini Midget Autococker
e2 eBlade with Powerex 9.6V battery
Twisted products LPC / front block screw
CP Shorty HPR
Pulse with RF chip
45/45 Crossfire tank
Deadlywind Wisper carbon fiber barrel with full Freak set of inserts
Fast, easy to clean, simple to use
Expensive, RF chip not easy to install in all markers
The long-reigning champ of hoppers has been the Halo B and Reloader B. However, Draxxus has finally taken a direct stab at the undisputed (until now) king of hoppers with the Pulse RF. I'm not going to bore you with the details of the Pulse, but highlight the differences between the Pulse and the Halo/Reloader.
Before we get started, let me explain the 2 different modes of operation. First there is RF mode (green mode). A small RF chip about the length of a quarter and 3/16 of an inch thick must be wired into one of your solenoids in an electronic trigger frame. The RF chip is pretty small, but some grip frames still may not have enough room for it. Green mode thus will not work on mechanical only frames. In green mode the Pulse spins its wheel to feed balls every time it senses the radio signal from your RF chip. The Pulse also twitches or pulses once every 4 seconds to ensure that the ball stack is still intact. The Pulse monitors the motor's power usage as it spins and doesn't stop spinning the motor until it senses the power change that indicates that the ball stack is full and the wheel has stopped spinning. Green mode is indicated by a green LED light on the back of the hopper.
Red mode is non-RF mode. Instead, the Pulse twitches its motor approximately 2 times a second and monitors the motor's power usage just as in green mode, stopping the motor only when it senses the power change indicating that the feed wheel has stopped moving. Red mode uses a lot more battery power due to the frequent twitching. Red mode is indicated by a red LED on the back of the hopper. The manual seems to indicate that even in red mode, the RF is still active, but red mode will be harder on your paint, batteries, and loader.
Size - The Pulse is about 1/4 of an inch wider and 1/4 of an inch shorter. They are about the same height except that the Pulse feedneck is shorter. The Reloader shell can be cut/sanded to match if you like.
Weight - Using a USB postage scale, the Pulse is 1lbs 4.8oz without batteries. A Reloader B with a Critical delrin drive cone and no magnetic lid, again without batteries weighs 1lb 3.2oz. The 6 AA battery holder was included in both measurements.
Speed - Especially in RF mode, the Pulse deals with high rates of fire and ramping better, responding more quickly with less popcorn problems.
Cleaning - The Pulse is the clear winner here requiring no tools to remove its electronic tray to clean the whole inside of the hopper, much better even than the suicide shells offered for the Reloader/Halo.
Strength - We've all seen the videos. Most likely a Pulse shell is stronger and will last longer.
Lid - The Pulse lid is a bit firm to open and close. A few minutes sanding should fix this if you don't like it. The magnets on the stock Pulse are nearly useless. My lid popped open when I turned the hopper around with just 125 Reballs and Reballs weigh quite a bit less than paintballs do.
Power Button - No membrane type stuff covering it so it won't look ugly in 3 months when the membrane plastic cracks off. It can be sealed with electrical tape which you'll have to do to the Halo/Reloader when the membrane wears out anyway.
Mechanical Operation - The Reloader/Halo use a spring loaded drive cone that belt driven to continually apply pressure on the ball stack. The Pulse doesn't continually put pressure on the stack and instead twitches and applies pressure using the motor only. In red mode, you can ramp up to 7 or 8 balls before the motor twitches and knows to start feeding which may cause a short hiccup in the rope of paint you are trying to shoot. Green mode doesn't have this problem and feeds instantly.
Drive cone - The stock drive cone on a Pulse looks much stronger than that of the Reloader/Halo. Time will tell if delrin or aluminum replacements are a near necessity for trouble-free operation as is the case for the Reloader/Halo.
Jamming - I haven't had a jam yet, though I've never had a jam with good paint in a Reloader/Halo. The reverse button on the Pulse will reverse the feed wheel for as long as you hold the button meaning that you need to press and hold it for a bit to (hopefully) clear the jam. The reverse button doesn't activate in green mode (according to the manual) until the next twitch occurs (up to 4 seconds). If you are in green mode, the Pulse switches to red mode briefly for about 4 seconds, twitching once every half second and then it returns to green mode. Basically, jams in green mode will take longer to clear, but it shouldn't take as long as it takes to rewind the rip drive by hand on a Reloader/Halo. No rip drive on a Pulse means no hope if your batteries die, but finishing a game with a rip drive isn't too likely to give you a win anyway.
LEDs - Both hoppers use a red and green bi-color LED to indicate status. The LED on the Pulse stays on all of the time and is rather bright. It's easier to know whether your Pulse is turned on in bright light, but it may take a lot of tape covering the Pulse's clear back panel to block this same light if you ever play in a night game. The Reloader's light blinks faintly to indicate status making it harder to determine status in daylight.
Other maintenance - The Pulse is clearly easier to take apart and put back together should you ever need to take the shells apart. You should never pinch wires on a Pulse. The Halo and Reloader were terrible to put together with wires to pinch and the difficulty of getting the raceway, wires, board, and back cover to line up correctly all at the same time.
Cost - The Pulse costs more. The cost of a Pulse rises if you buy the RF chip that is sold separately. The RF chip normally needs to be soldered into the grip frame, which most players won't be comfortable soldering it themselves meaning that the player has to find and pay someone to solder it in. Once soldered in, the RF can't be moved from marker to marker. In my case, the eBlade uses a small plug. I bought an install harness on eBay adding even more cost, but now its easier to swap the RF chip to a different marker with the same type of plug.
Capacity - Both the Pulse and Reloader hold roughly the same 180 rounds of paint. New shells available for both (though more likely for the Pulse with its removable tray) are a possibility.
Battery Life - I haven't owned the Pulse long enough to know, though I usually use rechargable batteries and frequently charge them meaning I've never run a hopper out of battery before. Another reviewer mentioned that the Pulse shuts off after 2 minutes of inactivity. The manual states that it shuts off after running continuously without paint for 2 minutes. If the Pulse is accidently turned on while sitting in your bag and doesn't have any paint in it, it should shut off automatically to save your batteries.
SPECIAL NOTE ON REBALLS: I did some ramping tests with reballs and I find the Pulse to be almost useless at feeding reballs. I don't know if its the smaller size or rubbery surface or what, but the Pulse jams frequently (more than once every 125 rounds on average) when feeding reballs. You'll have much better luck with a Reloader B when using reballs. Consider using a different hopper if you plan to play with reballs.
I'm giving the Pulse RF a 10 because it simply is the best thing out there now for pushing paint into your marker. The 10 is given for the RF mode. I personally feel that if you have to use red mode all the time, then a Reloader B or Halo B may be a better option for you. If you have a mechanical-only marker and don't plan to upgrade, then a regular 12V revy or Reloader (non B) makes more sense.
It's not entirely unthinkable that someone couldn't make a RF-based board for the Reloader/Halo unless Draxxus holds a copywrite on the idea, though you still won't have the easy maintenance with the removable feed mechanism. It would also be kind of cool to see a Pulse with a sound or eye activated operation to help with the red mode where the RF isn't available.
If you already have a Reloader B or Halo B and you don't need the absolute best, then you might not want to take the leap, though there is more than speed to consider with the Pulse. The easy cleaning and maintenance and reliability in stock form are compelling arguments to help get you into the game and keep you on the field longer. If you don't have a good hopper, definitely give the Pulse a long look.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, March 5th, 2007 at 10:13 am PST
Accepts all battery modules
Price of Hopper
Additional price of RF Module
Still get a few reball jams
The initial price tag of $150 for just the hopper is a bit pricey plus another $35 for the RF Module can put a dent in most players' wallets. Not to mention you have to have some soldering knowledge or take your gun in to a shop where someone can do the soldering of the RF Module for you. Despite all the intial weaknesses, that's all one will encounter once the Pulse is in use.
The Pulse has the following features:
Dual option lock lid; either magnetic for the back players or locks down for the front runners. Play as hard as you want. The lock lid is tight and won't open on even the hardest of dives into the snake. However, given that, its a bit tough to open and will require a bit more to get the lid open than most hoppers. Or for sweetspotting or quick gun fights just slap the lid down enough so that the magnets hold it in place.
Easy Maintenance; just take your thumb and middle finger and squeeze the side tabs to pull out the tray (drive train). No tools needed! No wires or sensors to worry about. All the mechanics are contained within the tray shell. Once the tray is out, you can stick your whole hand up into the hopper to clean. Slide the tray back in when you're done. Its that easy.
Batteries; It comes with the 6AA harness, but I immediately swapped that out for a HALO Lithium Ion Boost pack. My only complaint is that I had to use a dremmel to quickly grind down the "ribs" on the underside of the battery cover so that the boost pack would fit properly inside. It only took 5 minutes to do that.
Polycarbonate Shell; the guy at the shop I bought the Pulse from stood on the hopper to show me how strong it was. I'd say he was around 150 pounds, so its strong enough. Only time will tell though, my HALO had spider web stress cracks all over it so hopefully this shell will prevent that.
Performance; Awesome with paintballs, but I reball in the winter and the Pulse does tend to get the occasional jam from time to time. Even with a lithium ion boost pack and having the hopper synced with the RF module I still get the occasional jam, which is very frustrating. The reverse button seems to opperate differently in RF mode that non-RF mode. For reball its probably best to play in non-RF mode because the reverse button is more responsive and works through a ball jam better. Nevertheless, the RF module does help your gun ramp smoothly and compliments any virtue board software.
Size; Its so close in weight and size to a HALO that, in my opinion, is unnoticable and will not affect your game in any way. The hopper does sit lower than other hoppers because of the shorter feed neck and therefore is that much more in your view, so it may throw off your accuracy at first.
Over all, awesome hopper. I gave it a 9 because of price and the occasional reball jam that drives me crazy.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, January 16th, 2007 at 9:51 am PST
well i was really excited when i got my pulse with RF. It took a little getting used to, the really low profile(pretty much sits on top of my shocker) being it was hard for me to see without really tillting my gun, but ive adjusted. i used the loader at xpsl vegas and ran into problems with balls getting stuck in the feeder to the feed neck. really sucked cause there was no fixing it without pulling the tray out.(weather was terrible, maybe had somthing to do with it.) but this past weekend, twice i had balls get pinched beetween the wheel and the edge where the balls feed into the gun. one ball broke and jamed up in the loader, the other was just pinched, but the loader would not feed, and no the reverse button didnt help. it is a great loader when it works, makes shootin ropes a breeze. also im not shooting cheap paint. Karnage in vegas, x-ball silver or blaze on the weekends.
So far i have had pretty bad experiance with this loader, and people keep telling me they have heard of or sceen people having problems. but i want to stress this is only my personal experance, and the games i have played with no problems its been awsome, soooo fast. if any one else has had these problems i would like to here from you. thanx
I like to keep my reviews short and to the point, so here we go. The Pulse is a half decent loader. It is one of the fastest out there, BUT there are some downsides. Lets look at it, its ugly and the designs are not great. Maintanence is so easy. You just pull out of the the hopper and you clean. But becarefull because one wrong turn and snap crackle pop your out of a hopper. Take one ball to the shell and I have seen more then 1 crack. NOT SHATTER but crack. Will NOT take away from preformance, but for a high end hopper it shouldn't crack.
Final point being, go for the empire b2. If you like the design then this hopper is for you. With the upgrades and everything else you can do to a b2 I'd go for that. I give it a 7 because it is a good hopper but it is UGLY and cracks
The first day i got my pulse i was ecstatic,i thought it was going to be a great loader. I played with it one time and it was rippin. I decided to go and put the RF chip in the gun but i think my local gun tech screwed it up and so I had to play with the eyes off. It wasn't really that bad because the hopper kept up with it. I think when he put it on it messed up the solenoid board.I was riding in the car and i popped the lid on the loader. a few minutes later the hopper fell off my gun. I looked at my feet and there the loader sat without a neck.
This hopper is great until it breaks and becomes a paperweight.
5 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, February 13th, 2007 at 3:15 pm PST