Solid Construction, Reliable, Simple Operation, Good Price to Performance Ratio
Heavy, Quite Large, Loud,
First off, let me say that it has been some time since I have shot a Spyder marker. I used to use Spyders regularly several years ago and have fully played on a Spyder Compact 2000, Spyder TL, Shutter, Spyder SE and the 2003 Xtra.
First up the packaging.
The packaging was very slick, I have to say. The box was very compact, nicely designed. The marker was nicely displayed. I am sort of a tree hugger as well, so it was nice to see the box not using styrofoam and instead using recyclable plastic and cardboard. The box was also very efficiently packaged with a lot less space used in previous spyder packages. The entire thing was only 2-3" thick.
The marker has a very nice feel to it. The entire thing has a matte finish with a great, slightly rough texture. It is a nice change from all of the smooth aluminum. The overall texture gives the marker a very nice mil-sim feel and even the barrel comes off looking nicer than it really is with the matte textured finish. It feels very solid in the hands.
When I first put the marker together I was slightly surprised at the weight of it. Compared to my Automag, it has some good weight. It definitely feels solid however and durable and like I said before the overall texture just adds to that feeling.
The stock fits nicely into place and is screwed on via a screw at the top back of the marker. This may be inconvenient if you need to field strip the marker and I hope they have a field strip screw available. Unfortunately, it appears that the rear sight gets in the way and the screw is recessed too deeply for this to be possible.
The stock itself fits very snug and there does not appear to be any wobble in it. It is adjustable with four positions going from about 12"-18". I would have liked to see it go slightly smaller as I think I prefer something more in the 8"-10" range for the stock. The stock adjustment is done with its own field strip screw.
One thing that people seem to not have mention is that there appears to be a screw near the base of the stock in which you can remove the stock, but keep the head of it in the marker. Again, this would be very useful if a field strip screw was available to hold the stock to begin with.
Overall though the stock does feel nice, if not a bit weird at first for this speedballer.
The Bolt/Sight Rail/Barrel
The cocking bolt blocks sights on top of the gun, which at first I did not think was a problem. I am used to looking down the side of the gun for sighing with a drop forward system. I have noticed however that with the stock in place the overall position of the marker is lowered on my center of gravity and I would indeed be looking down the top of the gun for sighting. I did not find the bolt so distracting however as to really annoy me.
I don't have any comments on the sight rail beyond that as I do not have any attachments to put on it, but I have heard reports that it can be too short. The feed neck appears sturdy enough and is removable. A worthwhile upgrade in the future might be to replace this with a clamping next to eliminate a screw on elbow.
Now the bolt when I first setup the marker surprised me a lot. IT IS PLASTIC!!! (UPDATE: I later found out that this is known as a Delrin bolt and is self lubricating and lighter then a metal bolt) I have never seen a plastic bolt before and I am extremely curious as to how it is going to perform in the long run. Every previous marker I have used, including the former spyders has been metal. For the first round of balls that I have put through this marker, I did not notice any performance dramatically different than previous spyders. The overall construction of the bolt system seems pretty much the same has it has been for the past 10 years, which for me is a good thing. The bolt is loud and it has that classic kick that you find in all spyders previous.
The barrel is a 12" and shoots fairly decently. It is not the best barrel I have ever shot, but it is perhaps the best stock barrel i have ever shot.
The trigger frame is an electronic trigger frame featuring semi, 3-burst and auto modes. As you would expect the modes work as they should. The frame feels pretty good, but not all of the wires really seem to fit that well within the frame. The grips seem to bulge slightly on the left hand side of the marker. This may just be the case of me needing to move things around in there, but I think they should have designed it so I don't have to deal with something like that.
It would also have been nice to be able to adjust or select the rate of fire for auto mode. I think it by default it is set to 15 bps with no way to adjust that to your particular hopper. One under the radar feature is that the frame now uses the standard drop forward holes on the underside and no longer uses the offset spyder setup that previous systems used. A nice plus for those wanting to upgrade the drop forward, which is rather measly. Perhaps they are expecting people to go remote? I know I am.
The trigger itself has adjustable pull which is very nice. It involves two screws for the trigger set point and pull depth point. It is a simple but effective setup that gets you some nice trigger pull. Rebound on the trigger is fairly good and if set properly you can pump out some fast paint on this one. The only complaint with the trigger is that it has a slight wobble perpendicular to the marker itself. I would say that I can probably put out paint faster on semi-auto with the trigger properly adjusted than on what the full auto can do.
UPDATE 10/13/07: So I have had an opportunity to play a complete big game on the marker and I have some updated impressions based upon 24 straight hours of play.
As has been reported by many people before the marker runs extremely hot out of the box. I spent the night before breaking in the springs and I could still not get my marker velocity below 310 fps, even with the velocity screw toned all the way down. I had to snip about 1/4 of an inch off the springs to bring myself down to ~270 with the velocity screw all the way over.
During this big game I was running the marker on remote and had extremely good performance out of it. The paint at this event was RPS marbalizer, which I have read has a very small diameter size. That paired with the presumably larger bore size for the stock barrel made the marker a little less accurate. Nothing so much though as to make the marker unplayable, and in almost all cases it was perfectly accurate for anything up to about 30-40 yards. I wonder if the performance is not so much to the barrel being poor, but rather simply the barrel to paint match being poor.
I also had an opporunity to perform in all of the modes during this event as well and can safely say that semi and 3-burst performed without any hassles. I did get a couple of chops I believe when trying to run full-auto. This is presumably because my hopper could not keep up. I was running a Viewloader revolution w/ xboard.
Now I did notice something interesting when the marker did appear to chop. When firing the bolt only cocked half way forward, requiring me to re-cock it with no paint broken in the marker. Now this behavior appears to be similar to the ACS system that is in place on the MR2 from what I have read online. However, no where have I read that the E-MR1 has an ACS bolt in it. This may be simply something else occuring but I am not sure.
The only other significant problem to report with the marker is the adjustment screw with the shoulder stock. The screw is a quick release screw, and unfortunately does not stay tight on the field. Multiple times I had to manually re-tighten the screw after I flet the stock beginning to wiggle. I even at one point had the back half of the stock completely fall off without my noticing when I raised my arm up to signal out. I then had to re-trace my steps through the forest to find where it fell. Securing that stock and that screw is something I am personally going to look into and something I would suggest anyone out there to be very aware of.
Overall the marker seems to perform pretty well. It has a great feel and shoots fairly accurately out of the box. It is a spyder and with that it carries all the traditional expectations, be them good or bad that spyder generally always has had. It is loud, but shoots fairly consistently. Is it the most accurate marker in the world? No, but you shouldn't have any problem hitting your mark in the first few shots.
It has a very easy bolt system with easy field stripping, but seems to suffer from the standard trigger pull issues that spyders have always had. If you already own an eFrame for a spyder it appears that it should fit on this one and you may be better off purchasing the regular MR-1 and installing your own frame. Otherwise this frame is very adequate with the semi-auto and burst mode being very effective. Auto works fine enough, but is not adjustable.
For $140 it seems like a great marker. Having played on spyders for the past 9 years or so, it amazes me what you can get for $140 these days. I remember picking up a Spyder Compact 2000 that had a vertical bottle input for about $120 way back. Spyder TL's and Shutters were close to $200 and did not feature an eFrame or adjustable trigger.
Is this going to be a marker for the hardcore scenario player? No I don't think so. The E-MR1 does accel at being smaller, lighter and more maneuverable that its bigger brothers, the MR2 and MR3. I had a chance to demo, but not fire the others at the store I went to and while they are not unwieldy the weight difference is noticeable. With that weight difference you do probably get some more firepower being able to put up to 25 BPS out of them. This may be a position marker for some daggers out there.
In the price range I think it is extremely able to compete with the Tippman 98 or maybe the A5 (MR2/3 are probably more appropriate). They are about as equally as loud. I am not familiar with the A5's field strip-ability, but the 98 I have used required you to split the shell in half, making the spyder infinitely more strippable. That may have changed in the past five years. The mechanical trigger on the stock 98 is better I think than the mechanical MR-1 frame, but if you are into electronic frames I think the spyder is the one you would want to go with, at least for stock comparison. Weight wise they are comparable, but I think the spyder is more evenly distributed. The Tippman 98 seems to be more rear heavy, even with the tank on remote.
I suspect as with most Spyders, there are going to be plenty of after market upgrades available, so this might be a great marker for new scenario players like myself, or for those looking for a secondary marker. I think it will be interesting to see how the Spyders compare to the Tippman line in the next 2-3 years as the after market fully develops.
8 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, November 23rd, 2007 at 9:28 pm PST
The Marker that i use the most is my spyder E-MR1. I barely ever use the upgrades that i got for it because i relized that it doesnt need to be upgraded
Ok if you really think you need upgrades than here are the ones that you might need. An electronic hopper, which i use. And a scope because this is like a sniping gun and its got great aim.
Perfect Aim FAST Very Light Strong never breaks
A Little loud
This is a great gun, i think this gun is awesome it beats every other gun within the 100-200 dollar price range. This has great aim, its not to loud and it is very easy to maintain. Everyone i know likes this gun even though the people i know are way to good for this gun and brand. This gun is also very light to me. I dont get why the other reviewers think its a little heavy, cuz its not. It is a very fast gun, you will always know which mode you are on unlike the VS1.
Great gun i highly recommend this gun to anyone. its got every thing thats a gun needs on it.
i used the spyder tr-l sniper barrel on it and the 24' inch sniperbarrel usable on all spyder threads
old Mr1 stock
Good gun for 130$
Doesn't need much maintenece
Needs ajustable auto.
Good gun just for 130$. Ok bps (15-18).
Burst is good should be able to make 6 shot though.
I was very able to keep up with the guys with $500 + guns which made me feel like i had made a good choice on this gun.
I look forward to seeing how Spyder will continue a series like the Mr series.
Spyder MR1 Identical in construction except for the electronic handgrip obviously.
Tippmann 98 Very simalar in quality to the standard MR1
Spyder E-MR1, olive color (cooler than silver, trust me), no stock, 20 oz, cheap view loader.
An electronic loader.
Cheapest Rapid Fire
Obscenely Loud (I consider this a strength)
Cocking pin is in front of the sight
Cannot aim with stock and a mask
This is the best auto-fire for the money anywhere, and I really love using it. Makes mincemeat out of Tippmann 98 users. The biggest problems I can see is its inability to line up with your eye when you use a mask and the stock together. The bolt being in front of the sight is also a slight problem. Because it has rapid fire and no "eyes" you ABSOLUTLY HAVE TO USE A N AUTOMATIC LOADER or every ball fired on auto will break.
I would recommend this gun to every first time woodsball player whose father does not own Microsoft.
14" J&J ceramic barrel
VL force loader
Electric hopper, barrel, expansion chamber,
shoots up to 15 bps for only $130
Poor eye relief with stock on
sight rail is too small
The Emr-1 is pretty much like any other spyder electro, and it works basicly the same way. Shoots like its supposed to, The E-trigger is nice when your in a sticky situation, but the grip panel on the left side sticks out, exposing the electronics to the elements. I fixed this by wrapping a rubber band around the grip and putting blach hockey tape over the remaining gaps.
Being able to see down the barrel, due to the offset hopper, is nice compared to my other spyders. If you use the stock though, I'd recomend getting some form of raised sight, as your goggles will get in the way of you aiming properly.
An electric hopper is also a must, or you will chop.
Compared to the other markers in the MR series, the E-mr1 can hold ts own. Though the MR 2 and 3 have at least +10 more BPS, so if shooting fast is your thing, I would save up for one of those. Other wise, the E-MR 1 won't disappoint.
Spyder Victor II (vertical feedneck not ideal for sighting)
Tippmann c98 (though not enough to give comparison)
Spyder E-MR1 (olive)
Spyder 20oz Co2
Standard Gravity Hopper (at first)
Viewloader VLocity Junior (current)
At least an 18-20 bps hopper (necessary)
A J&J Ceramic or Stiffy barrel (preference)
Grips that seal the electronics (upgrade)
The CCM aluminum feedneck (upgrade)
Downward slanting stock
Loud, decent kickback
Useless open sights
Useless mounting rail
Stock adjusting screw
Grips don't seal
This marker is a real value-for-money piece of kit. You get a well built electronic marker with a decent firing rate and selectable firing modes for about the same money as a Tippmann c98. Also, if you're like me and like a marker that doesn't look like the Swiss-Army knife version of a Christmas tree, this will suit you perfectly as it has nothing it doesn't need and more nothings that won't get in the way. Another good point about it is the downward slanting stock, which is also length adjustable, so it does'nt get in the way of your mask when aiming and you can set it to the perfect length for your arm. Something I forgot to mention is how loud it is. This marker let's everybody on the field know you have arrived, good if you're an aggressive player, not so good if you're an aspiring sniper. The last thing I want to mention that's good (to me) is that it kicks back quite a bit, enough to leave marks on your shoulder when using the stock. I just love this aspect of the marker as it makes it feel alive in my hands.
I had to clean a lot of grit from my bolt on the first day, since the exposed top-cocking bolt lets in water, dust and pretty much everything else which is small enough and happens to fall from above. The open-sights are also useless since they are so low-profile that the cocking-pin blocks the sight-line. Also, the cocking-pin pretty much renders the mounting rail useless without an aftermarket riser if you want to mount something like a red-dot sight. My stock also gives the problem that if I adjust it the adjusting screw at the back vibrates loose during a game, but I'm going to fix this with some thread-locker so it's not a biggy. The grips also seems to be sub-par quality, as it's already starting to peel away exposing the electronics to possible water damage.
This part is for things I would have liked Kingman to have done differently. First and foremost is the cocking-pin, which should have been done the same as the MR2 and MR3. This way no grit could reach the bolt through the top, you could actually mount a sight on top without fuss and if you prefer open sights, the standard ones would have worked just fine. Second I would have wanted the stock to attach via a quick-strip pin instead of an Allen screw.
The first three games I played with this marker I had a couple of chops, which was due to me using a gravity-fed hopper. After getting a force-fed (> 18bps) hopper I haven't had one chop. You don't need an ACS bolt, just a good hopper. Other than this I plan on getting a barrel set which will allow me to get a good paint match at any field. I can also see either Trinity or Dye grips as a future upgrade to protect my board and a CCM aluminum feedneck as the standard plastic one seems very flimsy.
I would recommend this marker to anyone that wants a good entry-level electronic marker. If you are not too fussy, this marker will keep you happy ad infinitum.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, February 25th, 2008 at 6:14 am PST
Everything is stock, used a sypder fasta loader and pure energy 20 ounce
It fires every shot, i used crappy paintballs and none ever chopped.
It is loud, and uses lots of c02.
I like it, it has a good feel and shoots everything i put through it. The grip does stick out even when the screws are tight with the battery in. This gun is very easy to clean. the trigger is good, better in my opinion than a rocking trigger, as they are too sensative for me. when I went to a paintball course, they tsested my velocity and it couldn't be adjusted under 347 fps. The highest it got that time was 402 fps. I was unable to use it then, but for us who have our own guns that go out in the bush, its what everyone likes.
An awsome marker, for a good price and low maintinance
10 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, May 28th, 2008 at 8:41 pm PST
Spyder Victor 2, Spyder MR3, Autococker Trilogy, Spyder Sonix Pro
20 oz co2
Force feed hopper
Accurate, Fast Shooting, No breaks. Long Battery Life.
A little loud.
I bought this gun with my birthday money. No regrets. I use this gun for woodsball, and it has done fantastic. The e-mr1 is very sturdy. I am not sure exectly how long the battery life is, but it lasts forever!! I played a whole day, and still had battery left. The noise doesnt bother me, by the time they here it, they are out. But..... the trigger doesnt stay for long when you adjust it. At the end of each game, my trigger was back to stock distance. but that can be eaily adjusted each time.
Great Product. Buy this if you are just getting into paintball.
spyder compact...spyder sonix...tippmann 98 custom...icon E
Cheaper and better than buying regular mr1...
Loud as hell...too much blowback...
very very nice trigger...easy to clean...easy to maintain...it is a spyder so it is very easy to take parts out and clean them...but...balls curve nasty style...get a better barrel for better accuracy...use better loader than Halo TSA...too much blowback resulting in chopped balls...very loud gun...still owned ppl with this gun...
Its alright yo...better than buying a regular mr1 and putting an electronic trigger....
I mostly play woodsball and mil/sim but occasionally play speed ball so I was looking for a marker that could be used for all these types of games. I was going to purchase the standard MR1 but to upgrade to an electronic trigger would cost more than the E-mr1.
I have played may games with it and had no problems as yet.
To take advantage of the burst and full auto features, one would have to purchase a force feed hopper to keep the paint flowing at high rate and to prevent the "popcorn effect" caused by the blowback.
I recommend this marked to any one looking for a good entry level electronic marker at a good price that is easy to maintain.