A fresh take on tactical. With its military styling and ultra rugged lightweight construction, the SP-1 is built for speed and made to last.
Mil-spec accessory rails at every angle and integrated mount points for a stock, the SP-1 is ready for a limitless variety of accessories.
Equipped with an integrated tactical flashlight mount right below the barrel, which accepts inexpensive focused beam flashlights at a fraction of the cost of expensive tactical flashlights.
Low pressure electropneumatic operation replaces the outdated spring and hammer designs that power competing tactical markers, and allows the SP-1 to deliver a fast , accurate and quiet hailstorm of paint.
Weight (marker only): 2 lbs. 6 oz.
Length (w/out barrel): 12.5 in.
Operating Pressure: 180psi
Gas Source: HPA or CO2
Anti-Chop System: Low force bolt
Trigger Pivot: Stainless steel pin
Ball Detent: Dual rubber style
Semi auto, 3 round burst, full auto
Max Rate of fire: 11bps
Field legal mode lock
Runs on one 9 volt battery
Standard ASA included
One piece 10 inch barrel
Feedneck: Vertical clamping
Glass fiber reinforced nylon grip frame/body
The Smart Parts SP-1 is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used. Check out the Places to Buy links below for places to purchase it new.
Smart Parts ION, Tippmans, and a variety of other markers.
My primary is a SITH ION tactical with a 98 Pro-E as a backup.
Rail covers maybe?
Smart Parts quality tactical marker for a low price.
Flashlight mount plug is hard to remove. Limited upgrades and limited compatibility with existing products.
The S1 is a composite, high-impact, plastic shroud covering a smaller base marker. The feed neck is part of the external body. The internal body can be removed. The internal body consists primarily of a metal tube. The rear portion of the tube houses the bolt. The barrel threads are near the middle of the tube and the front of the tube covers 4-5 inches of the barrel. The board and removable solenoid are housed under the bolt section of the tube and held in place by bolts that also serve as the air line attachments. The board no longer extends into the trigger frame like the ION. The battery is still housed in the pistol grip. The outer body is largely cosmetic with a compartment to house a flashlight just below the barrel.
- Upgraded regulator which should be an improvement over the ION. This should be better at using CO2 but an anti-siphon, remote, or secondary regulator should still be used.
- Milsim body with flashlight mount.
- Rear accessible bolt for "easy" cleaning.
- Adjustable single finger trigger. (Upgrade to double trigger available soon)
- Small to medium sized 45 pistol grip.
- ION style electro-pneumatic design with similar electronics caped at 11 balls per second (Correction: Semi-auto fire mode only on stock board)).
- Easy-on button and audible sound for programming.
- Comes with a 9-volt battery installed.
- Air line has been painted black, nice touch.
- Barrel opening is larger than the stock barrel for more compatibility options.
- Box includes barrel, marker, instructions, registration card, and new barrel sock.
- Bolt action is supposed to be light enough to prevent or reduce chops without an electronic eye.
- Nice pistol-ish feel and feels lighter than it actually weighs.
- Flashlight mount plug is hard to remove. Apparently there is a locking screw hidden under the lower rail...I don't think this is in the manual.
- The marker uses a wide variety of hex head sizes making full disassembly a little difficult.
- The internals are not ION compatible so ION boards, bolts, feed necks, triggers, etc. are not compatible. (Based on comments a solid ION bolt may work)
- The feed neck is integrated and cannot be upgraded.
- The marker may not be compatible with some IONImpulse barrels. The stock ION barrel fits. The barrel inserts 4-5 inches into an opening. Freak backs should work but you may have to remove the freak stickers on the sides of the barrel.
- The bolt requires a rather large hex tool to remove. I think the easy of cleaning the marker has been slightly exaggerated. (Still easy to clean with the right tools)
- No tools are included and the instructions are a multilingual foldout poster that is hard to use and provides only limited information.
- Some rails are glued in place so they can't really be removed without creating an eye soar.
- Board is capped at 11 balls per second and no electronic eye is included.
- Upgrades and replacement parts are unavailable at the moment.
- The pistol grip covers are held on by hex head bolts making battery access difficult.
- Despite the plastic body it weighs only slightly less than a stock A5 (less than a pound difference).
- The marker is not Tippmann stock compatible. Update: Compatable stocks and adapters are now availabel. (I'm still a little sceptical about the attachment points though)
- There have been rumors of an aftermarket electronic eye upgrade. I don't see any openings in the feed neck or internal body to indicate that this rumor is true. Update: This is rumored to require an upgraded body
-Updated: It sounds like at least two board upgrades will be available soon!
- Make sure the regulator is turned all the way down before airing up for the first time and increase to desired pressure. I blew out my internal air lines shortly after airing up for the first time. (See dwell setting info in the following reviews)
- If removing the board from the body be very careful not to strip the hex heads. The two bolts that attach the board to the main body are made from a soft metal and can easily be rounded out.
- If you round out or strip any of the hex head bolts, use a rotary tool to cut a groove in the head so a standard screw driver can be used.
Using the S1 as a conversion marker does provide some interesting advantages and disadvantages over the ION.
Considerations for using the ION:
- The ION board extends into the pistol grip and can be difficult to relocate.
- The internal base of the ION is smaller than the S1.
- The ION is easier to completely disassemble.
- The ION has a wide variety of upgrades, replacement parts, and feed necks available.
- The ION feed neck screws into the internal ION body and no additional work is needed for the hopper attachment.
- The ION has the ASA for the regulator built into the lower receiver. Relocating the regulator requires some sort of ASA.
Considerations for using the S1:
- The S1 regulator ASA it bolted to the bottom of the barrel cover and could easily be relocated.
- The S1 internal body can be cut down to a much smaller size if needed, basically remove part of the barrel cover.
- The S1 board is more internalize making it a better fit for M-14 or sniper rifle conversions where a pistol grip isn't present.
- The biggest challenge with using the S1 as a conversion marker will be the feed neck. This is an integrated part of the outer body. If you want to transplant the internal body of the S1 to another body a feed neck solution will need to be devised. The internal body only has an unthreaded opening for the feed port.
For an internal body transplant conversion I'd recommend the ION over the S1 primarily due to the feed port though the boards configuration does make the S1 a likely candidate for rifle conversions.
Overall I definitely recommend the S1. The price alone is a great selling point. If you need a good marker and a super high rate of fire isn't required this is a great buy! I think this will be a solid primary or backup and definitely a good beginner marker. I'd recommend this over a 98C, MR1, and any other similar priced markers.
Update: The price of the ION is dropping fast. You can get a new ION for $165 online. Something to keep in mind since ther price difference is so small.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, January 10th, 2008 at 9:24 am PST
Tippmann's (Model 98, Custom 98, A-5), Smart Parts ION
Tippmann A-5 E-Grip w/ 14 All American, soon to recieve Tacamo AK Kit
2004 VF Pro-Stock with ever-growing list of ups
Smart Parts SP1 w/ "custom cardboard chunk in the grip" lolz (to stop battery rattle)
Psychoballistics Lightning Cocker w/: Orracle 3-Way
WGP Hinge Frame
WGP Y2K RF "old school cocker" (brass ram and 3 way, slide frame)
Brass Eagle Talon and Tigershark from when I was like 9 (Can-Tire baby!)
As of now there isn't too much out for the SP-1
Stock Barrel is decent but has room for improvement. It does, however, match the look of the SP-1 very well
Scenario add-ons (stocks and rifle barrels)would be great, but are currently not very available due to the age of the SP-1
Laser Dots and Flashlights?
Not exactly an upgrade, but it's a modification for sure. Trigger Job...(find it in the review body you'll understand)
Doesn't perform very well on CO2
Cold Weather=Affected Performance
Let me start by saying that for the money, this is a great gun. Not good, GREAT. In this day and age of paintball, some prices have gone up, others down. When you're talking about the SP-1, the price of a high performing electro-pneumatic is definitely going down. The thing is $150, and these days you can get a 48 or 72ci 3000 psi tank (recommend 48ci for a small gun like this) for around $70, and then all you need is a basic agitated hopper like a Revy for like $30.
There are a number of choices for entry level guns. Tippmann Custom 98, Spyder MR1 and VS1, BT-4, and PCS US-5 are the names that come to mind for me, and the most I see are Spyders and C98's. Even though these are all quality markers, I really wish that everyone starting out, and even some experienced players looking for a backup, would opt for the SP-1 instead. Just shooting one was enough to convince me.
So here's the deal: Dropping only 150 and tax, I got my money's worth, and then some. Locking feedneck, ultra cool looking, ease of maintenance, and as you know, electro. The only thing I noticed was when I first aired it up (in which case I find you should actually turn the board on FIRST, and gas up slowly to be safe) and started firing, it sounded like the tank was OUT OF AIR or there was a MALFUNCTION, because pulling the trigger resulted in faint popping noises and very little air blow through the barrel. Neither were the case. The darn thing is THAT QUIET. When I added paint to the mix, the paint seemed it was going a little slowly, so I went and turned up the inline reg pressure a little (the only way to adjust the velocity) and then it was amazing. The paint was seemed to be going somewhere near feild limits, and each ball was going exactly where I wanted (just shooting in my back yard). Aiming can be an issue to those used to sighted guns due to the vert feed blocking your view, but walking it to the target is a dream. After noticing that, I decided to just let 'er RIP, and to my surprise, the gun shot as fast as I could pull the trigger and never skipped a beat. Adjusting the trigger so there is basically no post-firing point travel would make it awesome.
Soon after I took this to the field. On a cold day where everyone's gun's velocities were spiking, the SP-1 showed what it could do. I never had to adjust the speed, my previous instincts may have been fluke, but were dead on. That fields limits were 285, and the SP-1, without any adjusting, shot mostly at 282, fluctuating no lower than 280 and no higher than 284. Absolutely amazing, and probably could be even better in warm weather and when the gun is broken in, hmm?. In the first 2 games it was especially cold, and the accuracy of the paint was obviously affected, but perhaps a little more than normal? Who knows. By 3rd and 4th game it grew a little warmer, and the SP-1 seemed to have "broken itself in". Compared to a fully upped 'cocker, it shot true and as smooth as ever. To put it plainly, I was spanking even experienced players with milsim Tippy's, and was always confident to run the entire field with the little SP-1. I lost count of my kills that day. I was also getting almost a full bag of 500 rounds out of a little 48/3000 tank, which is rather decent efficiency for a such a low pressure gun. The only problem was that I forgot to turn on my hopper one game, and when I went up to bunker a poor soul, I shot air about five times right on top of him, alerting him to my presence. I was barely able to shake the paint around and shoot some more before he could shoot at me. Needless to say this was pretty embarrassing. But it makes sense, since there is pretty much zero recoil, therefore nothing to make the hopper shake.
After this day I stripped the gun down (I'm a huge tinkerer), cleaned out the bolt housing and the bolt itself, lubed the bolt, and put it back together with no problems (although the screwing in of the bolt is a little catchy, you have to get a feel for it and push it slightly, or it will just sit there and spin) . All I noticed is that I couldn't manage to get the battery into that special place where it sits comfortably and doesn't rattle, so later on I put a slice of cardboard in the bottom of the battery housing in the grip to fill in the empty space (I know, some pretty heavy custom work right there lol). And then, like the manual says, I aired it up after this strip down to do a "test dry fire" (and I also did this because with only one major moving part, you don't really know you've done something incorrectly, like not put the bolt in all the way, until you air it up and something goes wrong) and it turns out there was a problem, it would turn on, but not shoot or anything...(UH-OH!) but it turned out the battery that it came with was dead. Hey, the things been sitting in there for a while slowly draining power, it happens. Threw a brand new Energizer in there, no biggy. Shot flawlessly again after that.
Another day I went to a different field with my cocker, and brought the SP-1 just in case there were any big problems encountered throughout the day. After a few games, a 13 year old or so kid's "high end JT" (please just get the SP-1 instead people) was severely jammed and just totalled it seemed. Instead of watching him fix it all day, I gave him my SP-1 and he gladly used it with his hopper and my spare tank. The velocity was now high 280's (who knows, but no big deal) and the same great consistency of +/-2 fps and at one instance 3 fps lower, so he just left it right there and went and played. Just after shooting it, he commented about how there was no kick, aswell as the accuracy, he couldn't believe it. We compared shots pre game on a huge dirt mound field that was very long. At distance, it stayed more true than my cocker which has upgrades costing more $ than the SP-1 itself (it came down to a slightly smaller barrel inner diameter than my cocker's All-A). After that game, the kid told me that it was the BEST gun he had EVER shot. We exchanged e-mails, and days later he wrote me saying he had a pball store gun tech tear down his JT, get it shooting, sold it for more than I thought it was worth, and with the money, was able to purchase the SP-1 with a 48/3000, and he loves it more than he can express. This really made me smile.
Writing this now, April 18th of 08, I am for sure bringing the SP-1 as my main next weekend outing to the field, or any other time I'm looking to have a gun-hassle-free day of woodsball (this winter for some reason I feel like playing in the snow, and what better gun to use than the SP1???). Upgrades I'm considering are a laser dot on the front-lower picatinny, tac-lite just for looks, and sending it back to Smart Parts to get it reflashed for Select Fire, since I got this back in December and it's considered an "early model". In the future, a new barrel is a good thought (even though the stock one looks perfect for it and is quite good), and maybe even a stock. The main thing I'm focusing on is tweaking it; getting an ideal velocity to operating pressure setup, and adjusting the trigger pull to only go as far back as it needs to hit the actuating point, and if possible make it snappier, even though stock this thing comes with a pretty short and snappy pull and set at an ideal pressure, I thrive to make things better.
And oh yeah, the low force bolt works alright. I've yet to chop a single ball, and have personally put my finger in the breech and pulled the trigger (although I wouldn't try this with my tongue). It gently stops on it and retracts, just like Smart Parts says it does.
Sidenote: (Update) Set it to run specifically on HPA after seeing how on the Smart Parts website (its very simple!). Haven't really noticed a difference in performance, but it feels really good. Also adjusted the trigger to almost zero pre-firing point travel. It rips. I've yet to find the screw to adjust post-firing point travel though.
Sidenote (Problem Encountered): One day out at the field I turned it on to make sure it was all in working order before I chrono'd, and the solenoid would not activate when I pulled the trigger. By the way it felt when I pulled it I knew that it was locked at the half way point and would not return to the forward resting position. Originally I thought it was because I have the trigger adjusted for a very short pull (which I now have to readjust because I screwed around with it, thinking that was the problem. ARRGH!!!!) but the real reason was the grip frame screws were a bit tight and somehow put tension on the trigger spring. I put them on a bit more loosely and it worked flawlessly, but this was a very strange problem, one of the most bizarre I have ever come across.
The last things I've got to say:
1. If you have the means, get HPA instead of C02 and you'll thank yourself.
2. I really don't recommend using a non agitated loader/a "shake and shoot". You can get away with these on Spyders and Custom 98's and such, because the high level of kick does the agitating for you. A standard Revy or the new Revolution Force/Eye-Force will easily keep up with it and aren't too pricey.
3. Go ahead and stick something in the grip to stop battery shake.
4. Read the manual knowing it kinda sucks (I've experienced leaks when I air up without it turned on, even though thats what the manual says to do)
5. You don't really need to strip it down, just clean and lube the bolt and the inner body after every 2nd or 3rd day's play, and make sure that you screw it in all the way and correctly, this is the only problem I can see possible with the SP-1.
6. You might want to replace the original battery right off the bat or after the first field outing or something like that. I wouldn't have been a happy camper if I took it out to the field and ran out of juice, although this is bound to happen sometime to everyone.
7. If you want to put a flashlight in the housing, take off the lower picattiny on the front, remove the silver set screw. (Not sure on whether you leave it in to set the flashlight in place though) It doesn't say anything about this in the manual.
8. Sorry about this whole schi-bang I wrote up, I'm a bit of a story writer :)
9. Oh yeah, buy it...
Thanks for reading!
Whether you're a beginner or an experienced player, this is a great gun and anyone can find a friend in it, as a backup or a primary. For 150 bucks and maybe soon to be even lower, you can't go wrong. I hate to say it but it totally smokes the C-98 or MR1 out of the water in terms of smooth operation, maintenace ease, accuracy and efficiency, and is in a whole different league in terms of operating pressure (200 psi max! definitely a full blown low-pressure gun). Pretty soon it will have a great milsim appreciation. Don't hate the SP-1 just because you may dislike Smart Parts (I feel the same way, this is my first Smart Parts gun). This marker is an amazing performer in every way, at a price I find very hard to comprehend.
Without doubt, an Ace in my books.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, August 6th, 2008 at 12:53 pm PST
Vertical Feed blocks chance of using a sight without .45 or offset.
Ok! I just got this thing I've shot it a few times last week and I JUST had a game with it.. Usually I (literally) wait a year, or more, to review something but this gun.. I have to review now, the SP-1 is culling me to review lol.
First of all, I might be biased due to the amount of, pardon me for this, kickass baddasery the gun magically imbued on me for the day.. But hell this is ONE HECK of a gun and gosh darn it I am going to slap anyone with a fish and a half if they say other wise!
Ok, strengths in depth;
This things body is tough nuggets, it took a few tumbles and trips with me and lasted fine, so did my SP-8 and apparently some people say the body is weak lol, but this thing is solid solid, feels like a glock almost, and the body and internals are VERY light!
I like how it looks when you paint it up camo, and it looks spiffy, turns some heads towards it, some away, it's personal tastes so it can't be worked into a reviews score lol, but I mention it because this is the SP-1 review, not vibe lol.
The body has quite a few rails, this leads to.. So very many possibilities you can literally put 9 lasers on this thing with a couple .45 degree's lol. Unfortunately you have to get a .45 to put a site on it though, or mount it directly side ways, which the more and more you tip a red dot, the more difficult it is to set for omni ranges. Thats the only complaint I have, other than that the vertical feed is really solid, a long with the rest of the gun.
And there's also a flash light mount, when I bought the gun I got the Mag Light mini with it, so I figured to put it in the slot, it holds it strong and it looks pretty neat lol. I actually used it to signal people a few times.
And it's compact too! Small and can fit places, and if you want you can get 98c stocks, or this one Trinity makes special for the SP-1 now, or air through stocks on the bottom, or an Air through T-Stock like I got. I kind of want a folding stock on this but it's nice either way.
This thing is bloody easy to maintain, 3 Allan head screws, and the bolt is out.. And thats that, you lube up the bolt, and you're good.. It's basically fine to lube it after every time you play its so easy. I don't understand how to take the body apart yet (in 2 halves) and the manual online doesn't say much, but usually you don't have to touch a board period for maintenance so this doesn't count for anything heh.
The regulator has a lot of pieces to it, but it vents off which I'll cover later. This thing simply gets props for maintenance! No springs etc, and god.. Springs are effing annoying.
Ok this thing is great on HPA, I have a 48/3000 tank and it lasted me 5 hours of play, and I still have 1000 PSI left in the tank lol, it's real great, I probably shot off about, oh, 200 shots, but I started off at about 2600 PSI seeing as HPA tanks cool down and loose PSI after filling, plus I checked the reg lol. Might be because I have the SP Firebolt, but honestly the fire bolt isn't that much of an improvement over stock, it came with it because I bought mine off a friend.
On CO2 it's a monster, it's efficient, you can freeze it and it barely looses velocity. It actually went hot for my friend and it was 4 degree's Celsius after freezing the tank and gun over lol.
It's silent! Very quiet! It's not as quiet as my SP-8, but with the Stiffi barrel it matches the SP-8 in sound, not the stealth barrel shroud of course.. That thing with a stiffy is ridiculous you can actually hear balls dropping louder than your output sound lol.
The stock barrel is good, it's pretty accurate but I have a Progressive 16" on it, and just with an upgraded barrel this thing is damn accurate and my 14" Stiffi.. Oh gosh it is barely just below the SP-8 in accuracy, and thats because I have a better bolt in my SP-8 than my SP-1, so this thing can be very accurate upgraded barrel, but with the stock, unless you get good paint match, it's gonna be oh about.. Above average slightly. The stock barrel is good, but its bore is a little on the large side.
A HUNDRED AND FIDDY, not fifty, FIDDY. This thing out performs, and I am gonna get disputed or flamed for this, clearly, and obviously out performed every A5 and 98c (2 A5's and 1 98c on the field today) that was there, and those markers are a good bit more than 150, FIDDY. You, just can't beat this as an entry marker.. And it might become my main marker.. From back up to main, not too shabby huh?
This is hard for me to say anything, so I am trying VERY hard to squeeze out some weaknesses.. Here's what I came up with.
Vertical Feedneck. This thing is a HORRIBLE idea for milsim/woodsball I mean hell you can't use the rails behind or in front of the feed neck for a red dot, you need a .45 degree offset or a direct flat offset from JCS.. I don't buy from JCS after I seen their ebay listing for "Chink Stocks"..
Um... Oh, not many upgrades.. Yet, well you can use a few of the Ion made bolts from other companies.. There aren't any boards yet, but they are already making the blackheart.. And it's an entry marker for now so standard board is just fine, people will want to upgrade them later anyways.. Well it JUST came out lol, so this isn't really a weakness it's common sense, scratch that.
Ok, keep in mind the SP-1 I have is used, it's been in the CSPO, SPPL, and it's so it's not brand new it does have a lot of use! And this thing was amazing, let me tell you bout the game I had with it;
The first game was Semi's VS pumps 6v6, I snuck up a long the left of the woods in a ditch, 2 very experienced pump players caught wind of me, all I had for cover was the lip of the ditch (I was in it keep in mind) and some little shrubs that exploded any paintball trying to get through them, I was covered in splatter, but as soon one moved to flank me to my right I quickly flicked over and took him out in 2 shots and then stood up and pegged the next guy right in the chest, I squeazed up in behind 2 more guys eventually, down further in, I took both out 1 shot each and this is without a sight. Finally it was 1 on 1 and I was shooting at the guy for awhile we got into a fight, he took me out eventually but man it was one heck of a fight lasted about 10 minutes between the two of us, I bounced a couple of them off him, and I took a big tumble with it getting caught on a root lol, the SP-1 took some beating when it did too lol.
With this gun I got 14 kills the entire day by shooting.. 5 barrel tags but 4 of them was when I had no battery lol, my fault for not changing the battery.. It was the same one I used on my SP-8 for about a week lol.
Buy it, hands down, buy it... It will surprise you, I might make it my main marker but I just don't want to give up my SP-8.. Been using that gun for 2 years lol, loyalty issues. It's great, it's tough there's nothing wrong with it, it out performs your standers 200 dollar 98c (at least in the store here but they charge 170 for the SP-1 here too), out do an A5, the only problem I can see you would have is just no front shroud yet.. Big whoop lol. Honestly with the light plug area and the rails, it's going to have a shroud eventually.
This gun is the only entry marker anyone should purchase from now on, I've used basically everything else, it out performs mid range, etc.. This deserves a 10, they market it as an entry, and its performance is stellar. 10 it is.
I know none of these are even remotely similar to the SP-1, but they all go splat.
J&J Edge Elite barrel kit
Redz Pepper Sticks barrel kit
Trinity T-lock feedneck
Invert Reloader II
BT 45 degree mount
Barska 50mm red dot sight
modified gas thru T-stock
CP coiled remote
Crossfire 88/4500 HPA tank (LP reg)
Hogue finger groove 1911 grips
Gear Sector sling mount
barrel kit with multiple bore sizes
Invert Reloader II (plenty fast for this gun and the narrow battery/motor profile leaves room for a sight)
BT 45 degree mount (if you plan to use a sight)
rechargeable 9.6v NiMH battery
Owners Manual Lacking Important Details
Top Dead Center Feedneck
Weak Mounting of Side Rails
To be honest, the main reason I considered the SP-1 when I started shopping around was that it was one of the few current markers offered with a conventional single trigger.
The price at $150 almost caused me to dismiss it entirely. I was using the Minimag with about $400 in accessories at the time and was still in the "if it costs more, its got to be better" mode of upgrading. So glad I was wrong in this case.
To adjust your settings only requires the trigger, power button, and the battery. No need to remove anything more than one grip panel. No need to access the board and no DIN switches.
Weight - After lugging around a fully loaded Minimag for 12 years, no comparison
Accurate - The stock barrel was much better than I expected, but even with my old Redz Pepper Sticks and red-dot this thing will pull headshots all day long out to about 25 yards.
The barely perceptible recoil came as a nice surprise. For down and dirty speedball and CQB it becomes a huge advantage.
With a 14"-16" ported barrel it's extremely quiet. Using the stock barrel, not so much.
The trigger pull is crisp and light without being overly sensitive.
***Relatively Low ROF is a plus - I know most of you are already spinning up to call BS on this one, but for anyone who started off with single shots, pumps, or simply makes an effort to aim, 11 BPS is more than enough to get the job done (ROF is usually inversely proportional to the shooter's skill level). It also means your old loader can still keep up with your new gun. Not necessary to spend an additional $150 to run at peak performance. When playing recball it helps to minimize overshooting and keeps things friendly. Makes it a LITTLE easier to keep your paint bill lower than a car payment.
The four mounting rails on the sides of the marker are almost a cosmetic add-on. They're glued to the body and the screws only go in about 1/8" into plastic. I would avoid attaching anything heavy or loadbearing (like a sling swivel or big scope) to anything other than the top rail. The position of the feedneck (I've always used a red-dot) is my only other gripe about the SP-1 itself, but several key subjects were not included in the owners manual. Like an exploded diagram, parts list, or how to change between:
-HPA / CO2 settings
Press and hold power button
-One flash = CO2
-Two Flashes = HPA
-Tournament (semi only) / Select fire modes
Press and hold trigger
-One flash = locked semi only
-Two Flashes = select fire (semi, tri-burst, and full auto)
To change either setting repeat the process
A flap of dark tape over the power button will make you a little harder to spot, especially when in burst or full auto modes (blinky blinky).
Some closed cell foam or some other padding in the grip will take care of any battery rattle.
Get some extra grip screws (6-32 x 3/8" button head socket cap) for your tool kit. If you ever change a battery at the field, sooner or later you're going to lose one.
Excellent all around marker. Good for the woods as well as the speedball course. Seems to be more rugged and durable than other more expensive electropneumatics.
New guys, spend a little more and pass on the flashy junk.
Experienced players, don't be fooled by the "entry level" price tag.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, July 5th, 2010 at 5:10 pm PST
This is the first electropnuematicmarker that i have purchased.
Other mechanical markers: Tippmann A5, Tippman 98, WGP autococker, VL triad.
Tippmann Triumph SSL 200 hopper
a Whole bunch of barrels
A Carbon fiber wrapped HPA or if sticking with CO2 a remote line with slide check.
Electronic Hopper that feeds up to 15 bps.
The factory barrel is better than most that come with a marker but leaves room for improvement.
MOST IMPORTANT: Lots of rechargable 9 volt batteries
The marker is extremly light, No ball chopps , Very efficient
The standard gravity feed hopper drains an alkaline battery after about 3-4 hours
I live in the northern half of Illinois and play a lot of woods ball. I had always been reluctant to purchase an electromarker for fear of the abuse it would receive would cause failure. Also after years of reliablility from my Tippmanns I did not see a large advantage with electronic markers. I first saw a video of the SP-1 on Youtube and began trying to learn more about it. I decided to give it a try and have been thoroughly impressed. The SP-1 has many desireable features but the greatest are the gas efficiency and lack of chopped balls. The weight is not noticible when using a remote line. After I unveiled my new SP-1 two of my friends went out and got theirs. One is a lower serial number and the other is a newer one above 6000. The newer serial has the selectable fire modes while the others dont, but Smartparts will upgrade it if you ship it to them. Over all I think that this will become my primary marker and my A5 will be a backup.
Don't the price fool you this marker is great. Everyone thinks you get what you pay for but this is a great product.
Tippmann 98c, A5, X7
Proto Matrix Rail
SP-1, Dye Ultralite 14'' Barrel, HPA, Egg III hopper.
"Depends on your style"
Soon to come: Double Trigger, Blackheart board, Eyes, New Feedneck (not needed really)
Already Out: Tippmann 98c Stock Adapter( the SP-1 can accept (most) tippmann 98c stocks). Trinity Paintball has made a stock for the SP-1 also.
Easy to Clean
Rubber Ball descents (wear out over time compared to other decents)
Overall, out of all the markers I've used, this is by far my most favorite. Personal preference, but also performance wise. It's pretty darn consistent, it's very light I think, easy to clean, the stock feedneck is clamping. The trigger is just so smooth and light. I can put sights, bi-pods, flashlights, anything that has a weaver mount, I can put on this marker. Buy the stock, or the adapter and a model 98 stock, and you're ready to rock out in the woods.
(Note: The electronics will not get damaged by rain)
(Note: for the rails, they're weaver, sights that are made for .22 caliber rifle or 7/8 inch rails will not fit at all)
(Note: There is a DWELL settings!!! The SP-1 has two preset settings, one for Co2 and one for HPA. In order to change, take the battery off, hold the power button down, while holding the button down, put the battery back in. The light will either flash once or twice and then turn off. One flash is for Co2, Two flashes is for HPA)
(Note: If you do shoot too fast with the Co2 bottle attached to the asa, the internals will freeze, and your marker will not fire for like 30 seconds until the internals are not frozen anymore. Dont worry, this wont destroy your marker, just something you should be aware of.)
I love this marker, I love the 11 bps, I love the single trigger, I love the weight, I love everything about this marker, I like it way more than the PMR.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 12:32 am PST
Smart Parts SP-1
CO2 tank w/ remote
Tippmann Triumph SL200
Barrel, as usual
Decent electronic hopper (stay away from any of the constantly agitating ones! save your money for something better)
Ease of use and maintenance
Rails for customization
Hard to sight down the side of the marker while shoorting (see body)
I love this thing. You will too if you get one! I was one of those that would never buy an electronic marker because I didn't want to ruin it in the rain or have to put it away because of rain. I would only ever use mechanical markers. If you're like me, this marker is the electro for you! Just spend a few minutes on YouTube watching videos of SP-1s getting dropped into streams and shooting underwater. If you are considering this marker because of price, but are worried because of electronics, stop worrying and get it. You won't be disappointed!
I run it on remote with CO2 and the only problems I have had with that is my tank freezing up inside my tank pouch. (Not the marker's fault.) But it does work very well on CO2, granted it works best on anti-siphon or remote, but what doesn't? In a pinch if you broke your remote line in-game, you could screw the tank into the marker and continue playing.
It is surprisingly conistent with CO2. I picked off a friend from 20 yards or so through a hole in a smaller spool about twice the size of a paintball.
It is easy to use and tear down. Follow the instructions that come in the box. When the SP-1 first shipped a lot of boxes didn't come with much of a manual, but they do now. Don't worry about that.
It shares the bolt with the Ion, so easy upgrades there, if you want to.
The only down side of this marker I have experienced so far is I like to sight down the side of the barrel to aim, and with the rails in the way I can't see the barrel to aim with. But this is with the stock barrel that is like 10" or 10.5" long and a new barrel wouldn't hurt anyway, so get a longer barrel, say 12" or 14" and if you like to aim like I do you should be fine.
If you are thinking about getting it, do it. This marker, along with the Vibe which is the same thing in a different body, will convert a lot of A5 and C98 owners, I think. The price is right. The marker performs VERY well, especially considering the price. The only reason this should be in the "Low End Electros" is price.
Get it. You won't be disappointed.
I give it a 9 because nothing is perfect, except Jesus.
Tippman 98 Pro ACT
No accessories yet, but likely a new barrel
Nice size and balance
Accurate out of the box
Build quality on my example is subpar. Gun has failed in multiple ways.
I started this hobby with an A5 which I mostly liked, but I didn't like how it was such a gas hog. I especially disliked that as tanks became low, I would have to cycle the cyclone hopper manually with each ball. This was annoying to me and I found myself lusting for the SP-1 due to the reviews and the very convincing marketing videos on their site. The SP-1 arrived and I sold the A5 to a friend.
Unfortunately, this marker has not performed once in the field. Details to follow.
When I bought it in the spring, I test fired it and everything was great. I took it to my first game and it worked for about 1 hour and then stopped firing. If I waited 30 seconds, the gun would fire a few more shots and then "freeze" again. I was running CO2 with a remote line. I borrowed a buddies marker and continued to play.
After getting home, I contacted tech support who immediately chalked this problem up to bad solenoid. They said it was a known issue on some markers. I returned it to them, on my dime, and they repaired it and had it back to me within 10 days which include shipping in both directions. Not bad for time and very accommodating overall. I test fired the marker and it seemed fine.
Fast forward to the next time in the field a few months later (I don't play too much). I pulled the marker out of the bag and pressed the button to turn it on. The button fell under the housing. It become stuck in a depressed position and the marker would not turn on. I borrowed a friends marker and played.
When I got home I called tech support and they told me that I could fix this myself. They were very nice and I was able to make the fix, but I was now starting to wonder if I made a good decision about dumping the A5. I brought the button back to decent working order, although it was still a bit "crunchy" to turn on and off. Still, the marker was functioning and so I was thinking that this would be fine.
Fast forward to last week, which was the third time bringing this marker into the field. I took the marker out of the bag thinking to myself that I hope it works this time. I turned it on and fired a few shots - terrific. Sigh of relief. I celebrated too soon. That was it. No more shots came out. The marker fired 4 balls total and then started "freezing" in exactly the same manner it did during my first outing. This is embarrasing now. I borrowed my friends marker for the third time (thank goodness he always brings two) and played.
So the marker has not worked in the field one time. To make matters worse, Smart Parts will only repair the marker again, not replace it. I have had numerous exchanges with a manager at Smart Parts, all very friendly and he was, in fact, very nice to deal with. Ultimately though, they will just continue to fix the marker and not do anything else for me.
I understand that this is their policy, but I feel taken advantage of because I paid 174.95 for the marker plus shipping it to them and I still have a broken marker. Now I will ship it a second time, on my dime, and hope it works when I get it back. I just want to sell the darn thing and be rid of it, but it will be at my loss because I essentially have a refurbished unit to sell which ultimately cost me MORE than the brand new unit due to shipping it for repair. Smart Parts will not exchange the SP-1 for a new unit under any circumstances. I would take a loss on the new unit too because of repair shipping, but at least I could sell it for retail (hopefully) to minimze the loss.
These circumstances do not feel consumer friendly. I would emphasize caution to any person considering this marker. I do understand that numerous users have an SP-1 and have had no trouble. That has not been my experience. I think I received a lemon, which isn't the end of the world, but since Smart Parts refuses to exchange it, I am stuck. This is lousy.
I cannot recommend this product based on my experiences. I have found that the company seems responsive and friendly, but their "no exchange under any circumstances" stance on their products really hurt me in this case. I feel slighted and this marker has taken some of the fun out of paintball for me.
I gave it a 3 based on some redeeming qualities that the marker does possess when working. A marker that failed me 100% of the time, doesn't deserve more than this rating in my opinion.
Tippmann A-5: Remote coil, HPA, CAR stock, Red Dot sight w/ JCS offset, ShockTech drop forward, Special Ops foregrip, J&J Ceramic Barrel, BT-4 Apex Barrel, Tippmann Werks Barrel, X-7 hopper, gun sling
Tippmann X-7: Remote Coil, HPA, Egrip, all barrels from A-5, gun sling
Smart Parts SP-1: Remote Coil, HPA, VL hopper, gun sling
Agitated hopper if reaching 11bps is a definite must.
Maybe a new barrel, but stock is fine so far.
Tactical rails galore
Low force bolt
3 Internal moving parts
Feed neck position
On/Off button location
Front grip position
I've played about 13 games (woods and speed) in a two-day spread, and here are my first impressions:
Compared to my other mechanical markers, the SP-1 is 1/2 the weight @ 2.2lbs (dry). However, I think the weight catches up once the SP-1 is attached w/ the VL hopper w/ two 9V batteries (old school).
There are many, many, many strips of picatinny rails throughout the marker, including a flashlight mount as standard feature. The flashlight has to be limited to certain brands that will 1) fit the diameter of the receiver, 2) have a tether hole so that the securing pin can go through, and 3) the tether hole position has to align w/ pin position. The Maglite definitely fits, I'm not so sure about other brands. Besides, I haven't played in any enclosed (dark) urban combat scenario where this feature would be useful.
I have not chopped any paint on this marker. My compliments on the low force bolt, it works "as seen on TV". I had a paintball break in the chamber, though - read more below in "The Incompetent" section.
The marker is extermely easy to clean and maintain. There are only 3 moving parts that need to be disassembled. One minor shortcomming from Smart Parts is that they do not include a tool to reach the inside of the marker from the barrel end. The use any non-metallic rod (even wooden chopstick) is suggested in their site.
I am used to having a Red Dot sight to estimate where the marker is shooting, but since the feeder neck is right on the line-of-sight, I could not mount one as of yet. A rail offset will resolve this issue in the future. The marker was shot during one of the games right where the on/off button is. I could not turn the marker off as I was walking out the field. SP-1 does not have a "safety" button other than turning it off. I placed the barrel bag and walked out. The marker was "live" for the rest of the day until I disconnected the battery for the trip home.
Beause the front grip is attached to the Max-Flo regulator, the position cannot be adjusted, leading to minor discomfort since I am used to grips being farther apart. Regarding the battery rattle - any home remedie can fix this: foam wedges, 3M double stick tapes etc... not a huge showstopper.
Time for confession: I read the manual as soon I opened the box at home, but it did not register in my head during the play day (blind-sighted by euphoria?). The SP-1 comes from the factory set up for use w/ CO2. I was running air that day. Thus, during fast triggering, one of the paintballs broke inside the gun. Cleaning the barrel did not help, and most of the shots were curveballs from that point. I diassembled the gun and cleaned off the gunk inside (again, standard cleaning tool would have been helpful), and the marker performed flawlessly again. Lesson learned!
Even after the marker has been discharged of air, it will sometimes shoot when trigger is pulled (is it due to residual air trapped in the internals?). I am not sure if this is common on electropneumatic markers, or SP-1 or it is just me.
Only time of use will determine the longevity of the marker. Currently, I do not have any data to establish any claims.
I haven't taken the opportunity to make any scientific measurements in terms of accuracy vs. distance vs. ambient temperatures vs. propellent, but the marker shoots true. To reiterate on the strength, this marker offers a lot of features for relatively low price. I am extremely satisfied w/ my purchase.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, April 1st, 2008 at 1:48 pm PST
Great gun overall. I bought it as soon as it came out, for a cheap $170. The gun is waterproof, (Can be shot under water without harm), it can be run on C02 if nessicary, but I would reccomend going to HPA as soon as possible. It is a micro-switch single finger trigger, but that isn't a big deal because I rip pretty fast with it anyways, its adjustable as well, so you can move it back, and if you want, you can buy a double trigger for it for about $40. When I first got it, I was running C02 because my field didn't fill HPA. On C02 it messed up a bit for me, but it was just becasue I was shooting downhill normally, so liquid C02 got into it and would make me wait about half a minute before it started working again. It has great efficiency, operating on 180 PSI. As soon as my field got HPA I bought a crappy little steel tank and a new barrel and the SP-1 was preforming amazingly. It is almost perfectly consistant, and shots that I would of been scared to try before were now easy. Lots of one shots as well. It has some good distance with the LAPCO, I would reccomend a new barrel right away after you buy it to save some trouble. (ION thread). Buy a decent hopper for it and you will be set, the stock feedneck isn't clamping, you tighten it with allen keys, but it is definatly a nice feedneck if you don't need to take your hopper out mid game. I had a problem with the front plug not coming out so I cant mount a flashlight, but thats not too big of a deal, so i gave up fast. Aside by that, the gun is very very nice. I made sure I used it for at least a year before I put up a review so I could state any problems with it. At one point it started to squek a bit for me when I shot, but after I cleaned it and lubed it up again, it was doing fine again. The bolt is very easy to access and maitnence as well. Just open up the back plate and unscrew the bolt out the back, and grease it. Its very easy. I wouldn't of minded a nicer board, but you can't expect that out of a busahball gun, so I'm not concerned about that either. It has never really broke down on me, and the velocity stays pretty consistant. I think an off-set feedneck would of been a nice addition, so the sight rails on top could be used for a red dot or something of that sort. Its not super upgradeable, but check this gun out, its nice for sure, and well worth the price.
This gun is great. Smart Parts gave us a beautiful price on it, and it really has a lot to offer. Buy a nice barrel for it, and your set up with an amazing working gun, that won't break on you. I give it a nine out of ten only due to the dusty stock barrel, and it messing up when shooting down hill on C02. But if you have HPA on it, the gun is amazing.