-Compact and Lightweight Single Tube Body Styling Weighing Only 2 lb 2 oz
-Composite UL Frame
-Single Piece Micro Honed Proto Barrel
-Anti Chop Break Beam Eye System
-New Increased Flow Hyper 3 In-Line Regulator
-Proto Bottomline with Dovetail
-Bolt Silencer (decreases noise and kick)
-Super Low 145psi operating pressure
-New solenoid with increased durability and airflow
-Ultralite aluminum trigger
-Proto Dual Density Injection Sticky grip
-LED Program Control with four tournament modes
-Orbital Rotating sear reduces wear
-No rise clamping feedneck
-All new Self Closing Valve (SCV) 2 Piece Bolt
-Self Lubricating Force button
-Improved battery life
The Proto Proto Ultralite SLG is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used. Check out the Places to Buy links below for places to purchase it new.
The accuracy of this review is disputed. Please see discussion on the comments page.
Period of Product Use:
Less than a month
22 of 24 people found this review helpful.
Similar Products Used:
08 Slg- Has many more gaps than the 09 in it's manufacturing that could have made it better.
08 Rail- This gun comes close but the new slg is more advanced, because it is newer.
pm7- Even though some might disagree, I personally believe the SLG is, pound for pound better than the Pm7.
Angel G7 Fly- The G7 Fly is a better gun than the 09 Slg, but it costs nearly 1100 dollars more.
Proto UL Slg
Smart Parts All American Barrel
Dye Aluminum Bolt Upgrade
Tadao Proto SLG Upgrade Board
Trinity Paintball Aluminum SLG Rolling Trigger
Maddog Designz Lockjaw SLG Clamping Feed Neck
This marker does require a few upgrades.
If you intend to use this marker for semi-auto play, you will need a new trigger. Also, this marker severely needs a new front bolt and barrel. An on/off switch along with a better feed neck is also disireable.
Speed, Ergonomics, Affordability.
Some poor engineering, Bad stock barrel and front bolt.
This marker is basically an electronpneumatic, fast shooting (stock is capped at 35+ bps!), solid gun for those who may not wish to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a high end marker. This marker will out-perform all of the Low-end Smart Parts markers, All of the Spyder markers, the Dangerous Power G3, And the newer (06-09) Autococker Garbage. It comes with a solid body and grip, Pretty good board, but more can be desired. It is not paint picky, even with the stock barrel. The eyes are break beam, and work phenominally. The regulator is a Hyper 3 and if you think you will need another one, you are terribly mistaken. The only really bad thing about this marker is how fragile the PLASTIC front bolt turned out to be. it broke the first time i test fired it with paintballs.
I reccomend this marker to anyone who is looking to cut costs playing speedball, or ANY woodsball player, as I use this gun for woodsball and it is a dream to play with. 9/10 for some of the bad manufacturing and bare minimum extras.
New Designz back cap
smart parts all american 14"
dye ultralite 14" .689 .691
Proto Air Port On/Off
pmi pure energy 45/4500
better feedneck "optional"
Quieter than the 08
still no on/off
slight trigger slop
plastic ul frame
well as a previous owner of the 08 model i can say they they are one step closer to perfecting this marker. I can honestly say I was still a bit disapointed that they didnt include a on/off or a 2 piece 14" proto barrel.
the marker shoots straighter and quieter than the previous model though. the new dye frame is a nice addition, but its plastic. but im sure your all wondering if this warrants a $100 dollar more price tag than the 08 model. my honest opinion "yes it does" both are great markers but this one is much better.
im severly disapointed in the plastic ul frame and the amount of slop in a ul trigger and with the exclusion of a on/off. if the marker didnt shoot so well i might of went with a pmr
Proto give the ppl a on/off and a 2 piece barrel for gods sake. A locking feedneck a on/off and a 2 piece barrel is pretty much the only thing ppl complained about with the 08 model. but the frame is oh so sweet. i gave the 08 a rating of a 9 because we needed to upgrade the gun. and again even though this is clearly better than the 08 model im still giving it a 9. still have to upgrade
9 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, November 29th, 2008 at 5:32 am PST
Dangerous Power G3 - The G3 works great, and has never, ever let me down.
Dangerous Power G3
Pure Energy 50 ci HPA tank
APE Upgrade Board
New marker - The SLG isn't worth upgrading.
None - The gun has no strengths.
Quality Quality Quality
A kid on my team bought a brand new SLG back in April. The gun never worked right from the day it was taken out of the box. You could pull the trigger once, and it would shoot.......pull it again, and nothing........pull it again, and it would shoot........pull it 2 more times, and nothing.........pull it again, and it would shoot........and so on.
Nobody could figure out what the problem was.......not even the gunsmith where the kid bought it. I went ahead and bought the SLG from the kid, so he would have the money to buy a G3 like the rest of the team. I had no desire to own this SLG, but this kid needed a gun he could count on in tournaments, so I bought it simply to help him out.
I sent it back to DYE, and they fixed it and sent it back to me in about 10 days. DYE customer support was great. When I got the gun back, I aired it up, turned the eyes off, and dry fired it a few times. It worked, so I put it back in it's box, and left it. I never took it back out. We compete in 2 tournament series, and have 2 matches a month, so I didn't have time to fool with the SLG. I really didn't want to shoot, or even own this SLG.....working or not.
I'm going to be honest with you, I had decided that the SLG is a piece of crap. Everywhere I went to try and learn about the SLG, and how to fix it, all I saw were people complaining about how their SLG didn't work, and never worked right from the day it was new, or worked right for a couple of weeks, then stopped working. My opinion of the SLG became that it is the worst paintball gun being made today, and that if you took a really big turd, and put a hopper on it, that you basically had an SLG...........that the SLG was just a turd with a hopper on it. Not something worth throwing your time or money away on.
I was sitting at the house yesterday, and was kind of bored, so I took out the SLG, put a tank and hopper on it, and proceeded to shoot a couple hundred balls through it. It worked fine. The barrel is so short that you really can't be accurate with it, but it shot just fine. I took a 14 inch barrel off my G3, and put it on the SLG, and it was pretty accurate. I actually had a little fun shooting it.
I told my kid about how well the gun shot, and he went outside to shoot it for himself. It shot fine for about the first 15 balls, then started "pinching" balls with the bolt. About every 9 or 10 balls, one would get pinched. And when it would shoot a ball or two, you would have to hit the button on the back cap to release air and "recock" the bolt into place. It took him about 40 minutes to shoot a hopper of paint. It does that every time you shoot.
So now that the board is actually telling the gun to shoot every time I pull the trigger, the bolt pinches the ball before it can make it to the chamber. Nice!
This gun is so gone. It isn't even worth keeping as a backup.
I did a lot of research on this gun when I was trying to figure out what was wrong with it. What I discovered from sites like PB Nation and Tech PB, was that about half of the people who own an SLG can't use it, because it doesn't work. Then I came here, and seen that kids were giving it a 9 or a 10 rating. Do a little research, and you will see that this thing doesn't even deserve a 1, because it doesn't shoot enough to allow for a full review.
SLG = Turd with a hopper.
Do not throw your time and money away on one of these. No matter what you pay for an SLG, it was too much. If someone gives you one for free, take it. But do not spend any money on something that won't work. You'll be standing around while others are playing paintball.
actually none i only have used mechanical markers.
Spyder victor 2
vl 200 loader
20 oz. tank
jt google mask
and many other stuff
a new barrel
Pretty much every thing.
None , by the time.
Im really new to paintball and i have tried many markers and this one of the best i hab used, the only thing you need is a new barrel , it is great for jungle and speedball i recomend it for anyone who plays both and wants an electronic marker instead of mechanical one.
WGP Trilogy SF Tactical- Heavier, board is less customizable
Dangerous Power G3- Lighter, trigger feels funny
PM7- Fairly similar, SLG UL has more bang for the buck in my opinion
Proto SLG UL
+ J&J Edge barrel kit
+ Empire Reloader B
+ 68/4500 DXS
Ultralite trigger frame
Read review for the rest
Stock barrel is not the best
No On/Off ASA
Macroline leaked at first
This is my first review and I hope it helps somebody.
Well, I just so happened to have some money land in my lap and decided to buy a new paintball marker. I was looking at reviews in my price range and it seemed like everybody was saying to get a G3 or an SLG UL. I decided to get the SLG UL because my brother owns a G3 and don't like the trigger all that much and the fact that his reg still hadn't broken in completely after 5 cases or so.
As soon as it was delivered I was taking it out of its box. The box is made from cardboard and has foam inserts for the marker, barrel, and parts. The marker comes with a full color manual, a barrel sock (kinda awkward), a small parts kit (really just a whole bunch of o-rings), some lube, a battery, and six or seven allen wrenches even though you only need three or so.
I took it out to shoot as soon as I was done looking it over. I was using the stock barrel, my reloader, about 700 rounds of Triumphs, and about 2,000 psi. I aired it up and noticed the macroline attached to the reg was leaking, but that was easily fixed by twisting the reg a little. The pin behind the bolt also blocked the wrench hole. 1st hopper: Consistently hitting a small wheelbarrow from about 40 feet away. 2nd hopper: Still ripping along, a little bit of drop. 3rd hopper: Drop noticeable now, still as accurate. And then my tank broke with about 300 psi left. Got out a different tank and shot the last of my paint. Only about 5 paintballs missed while I was shooting.
It does not like mud or water. I slid into some mud and water and the marker turned off and would not turn back on. To turn it back on I had to take out the battery and dry out the board before replacing the battery.
About The Marker:
ASA: Standard no On/Off ASA
Barrel: Nice for a stock barrel, but it could be better.
Feedneck: Clamping feedneck that requires an allen wrench. No way that is coming off in a match.
Regulator: Very thin and relatively comfortable to hold.
Bolt: Easy to take out, simply unscrew the back cap and pop it out.
Trigger: Some side to side movement. Made out of aluminum or the likes. It also has three adjustment points.
Grip/Frame: The grips are fairly grippy and the frame is very comfortable. The frame is made out of a composite material.
Board: Easy to to change the settings. Simply flip a switch, turn it on, pull the trigger a few times, and flip the switch again. It also lights up one of the emblems on the outside to show whether there is a paintball in it, if there is something blocking the eyes, its turning on, or the eyes are off.
Eyes: They seem to be placed almost on the bottom of the breech, which I assume will make chops a small possibility.
Detents: Two of them placed midway up the breech and a little farther ahead of the eyes.
Style: It has a very flowing design to it.
Overall this is a very good marker for what you pay. You get most of the features that a more expensive marker has for way less money. The board is extremely customizable and anybody could find a setting they liked. I personally like it better than the PM7 even if they had the same price. Because of the ASA and stock barrel I give this marker a 9.5 rounded to a 10.
EDIT: -0.5 points because of the water. Now a 9/10.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, July 7th, 2009 at 6:07 pm PST
2009 Proto Ultralite SLG, 14" J&J Ceramic, Crossfire nitro tank, Viewloader Evo III
Plastic trigger frame
Makes me use more paint
This gun is so far been one of the best guns I have ever owned. I have always been stuck in the world of cockers and this is my first electro gun. I could not believe it when I pulled this gun out of the box and was able to shoot more than 30 bps. That is sick. Not to mention the styling, this thing is really sleek. It draws attention just by sitting there. The performance on the field was insane compared to the slowness of all my cockers. There were a lot of newer guys out there last weekend so the pickens was especially simple with this gun. The accuracy is decent with the stock barrel but with an upgraded barrel is just about dead on. Not as good as some other guns, but definitely acceptable. Absolutely NO ball breaks. The anti-chop eye is something that I am new to but I really really love it. It is pretty lightweight, way lighter than both my other markers.
Overall very very solid gun. Maybe a little expensive, but its a very great gun right out of the box. It isn't hard to tune and change modes, but it does help to have the instruction book in front of you. You will absolutely need a good pod harness when using this gun on the field because you will shoot a lot.
Proto SLG UL
CP 2 Piece Barrel
Dye Rotor Loader
Easy to operate
I have only used my gun once but I was impressed with it. The gun is sickeningly light, feels like nothing in your hands. Proto also did a great job with the user manual, everything is explained very clear in the manual and you should have no problems with it. The gun is very quiet, you barely hear it when you shoot. I only used it in Semi while I played but I had no problems laying out ropes of paint.
There were a few downsides. I broke a bit of paint the day I used it. My barrel size was a little bigger than the paint but I think I broke about 20 shots the whole day. I also had a problem with the eyes getting dirty, ie broken paint. This led me to a couple of misfeeds that, stupid me, I walked out of the game because I didn't know what to do. Push the bleed button on the back of the gun a few times and it cycles the bolt. My accuracy was a little off that day as well but that is due to larger bore to paint match.
I used my gun again this past weekend and I must say, leaps and bounds better. My bore to paint match was perfect. I had no problems with breaks the whole day. My accuracy was dead on and range was quite sufficient. I played with it in PSP ramping for the first half and I was amazed at how fast I emptied my hopper. I had to set it back to Semi so I didn't burn through all my paint. This gun is definitely great and I look forward to using it again.
All in all, this is a great product for the price. It is definitely worth it for someone who is just starting out but probably not what you want if you are going for the serious tournament play. I would still recommend it to anyone though.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 at 7:31 am PST
09 Proto SLG UL Black
45ci/4500psi Pure Energy Tank
14" Dye Ultralight .689
Proto Axis Goggles
Proto 3+4 Pack
Barrel (Like every marker out there)
Leaky Marco Line?
After doing extensive research here on pbreview, I came down to purchasing the Proto SLG or the Tippmann X-7. I wanted something that would give me woodsball and speedball capability. So I went down to my local PB store to try each of them out. Hands down to the SLG.
But what was extremely entertaining for me was they sold me a "Black SLG" for $260 Canadian; when i got home I realized that they sold me a "Black SLG UL" for the price of a Basic! Score! :D Am i really going to correct their error? ;)
After slapping on my tiny 45/4500 tank from my now retired Ion, the Macro Line connection to the regulator started leaking like a sin. Not that bad though, i just replaced the line and it now works fine. Minor hiccup.
With the 14" Ultralight Barrel, the Vlocity Jr and the 45/4500 tank, this is a crazy light and tight set up. Great for me cause i usually play front or mid in most games.
Changing the settings on the board is a breeze. The colored LED's make it all so simple. I never take it off the PSP settings anyways.
After playing with this marker for many games, whenever i chrono the SLG I get a consistency of +/- 3 fps. Just awsome.
And even though I run a small tank, my little 45/4500 usually results in 900-1100 shots. Thankfully at my local field air is free, so I just fill up whenever my Pods are empty.
This is a handy marker to own. 100% recommended for beginners and intermedites alike. If you are looking to get a step into speedball while still having the capability of being bashed around in the woods.
I give it a 10 because it is the best marker in the $300 US price range.
Small, light, and comfortable to use. It's also extremely fast.
Very finicky, somewhat unreliable, and poorly-equipped for its price point.
Last May I was in the market for a new "fast" gun to replace my Diablo Wrath. I liked the Wrath, but it had developed a first shot dropoff problem that I couldn't fix and I wanted something smaller and lighter. I eventually narrowed my choices down to the G3, the Mini, and the UL SLG. I chose the SLG because I wanted to buy from my local store and I felt that its Ultralite frame was more comfortable than the other guns'. Also, the gun came with a season's pass to my local paintball field
First impressions of the gun were very good. I like how the gun points with the UL frame, and I REALLY like how low-profile the gun's single-tube design is, putting the hopper very close to your trigger finger. The feedneck is adjustable with an allen wrench and easily accommodates all the loaders I have. It's fairly sturdy too; I took a dive last weekend (ok, I slipped and fell on my face in the mud) that destroyed my VL Revolution's neck but the feedneck of the gun was undamaged.
The gun's trigger is nice too, and I have no desire to upgrade it. It has 3-way adjust-ability using a small allen wrench, and both ends of the travel as well as the activation point can be adjusted without removing anything. I quickly had the trigger set up to my particular tastes. Unfortunately, the poor tolerances of the plastic frame mean that the trigger has a LOT of side-to-side slop, which cannot be corrected with the screws. This gives the gun an unfortunately cheap feeling that spoils the rest of the experience.
The other ergonomics of the gun are pretty good. I like having a good foregrip on my guns, and found that the stylized "nail" on the front of the trigger guard was getting in the way of my thumb. So I dremeld it off.
Stock barrel is wide enough to stick your arm through, and thus useless.
The gun has no "safe" mode, you just turn it on and off by pushing the lower button on the rear of the grip frame. I found that I sometimes had to shield this light with my hand to see it in sunny weather, and that the button was still easy to push even with gloves on.
My SLG has never demonstrated the first-shot-drop-off problems that plagued my Wrath, nor has it ever chopped a ball.
Out of the box my SLG was shooting around 290fps, +- 5fps. I chroned it down to 275 as per the field limit back in May, and as of late December I haven't had to adjust it since.
The gun's ASA is the rail-based DYE airport. It's not an on/off ASA, but you can adjust the length of the activation pin inside, and there's a bit of leeway back and forth in terms of where it sits on the frame. I and a lot of other users have had trouble getting this ASA to be tight enough, but I think I've discovered the problem: Since the frame is plastic, the dovetail rail itself is actually a separate aluminum piece that fits into the bottom of the frame and is tightened with two screws into standard AGD/WGP bottomline mounting holes. If these two screws come loose, the ASA will continue to be loose, no matter how hard you tighten the dovetail locking screw. These screws thread into steel nuts wedged into the plastic of the frame, and unlike some other guns I've recently worked on (Smart Parts SP1) the nuts do not slide around in the frame. Once they're tight and hopefully loc-tited, the problem goes away.
I should note that this is one of two problems that are easy fixes, but not mentioned in the otherwise very nice full-color instruction booklet. The other is the battery. The poor tolerances of the plastic frame as well as DYE's deceision to use battery contact blades integral to the frame instead of a more traditional 9v battery clip, means that most normally-sized 9v batteries are actually too small to fit properly into the grip frame. A small piece of paper wedged between the frame and the battery fixes this problem, but it's annoying that you have to cram cardboard into a $300 gun to get it work properly.
Another downside of the gun is that it lacks an on/off ASA and a lever-locking feedneck, standard features on guns like the Mini and G3 which are similarly-priced.
Now, the good parts! This gun is very, very fast. The board will let you run it up to 30bps and dry-firing it and goldwaving the video confirmed that it will indeed cycle that fast. DYE has put some videos on Youtube of SLGs with Rotors hitting 25bps or faster with no problems. Unfortunately, the fastest loader I have is a VL Force. Besides, my field has a speed limit of 10bps, so I just ran my SLG at that speed.
Although the SLG cannot be disassembled when gassed up, disassembly is very easy. Use an allen wrench to disassemble the backcap and all the moving parts come out in two easy to clean pieces.
I did run into a number of problems with my SLG. The first is that the rear bolt bumper tends to tear itself apart very quickly. My first first one disintegrated after about a case of use, and the second, which is still on the bolt in the picture below, had only around 800 shots.
This seal is unique tire-shaped piece and I haven't found a suitable replacement except from the gun's parts kit and Proto themselves. As the bumper wore out I noticed an audible "pinging" noise when the gun was fired, but the marker's actual function was not impaired. Supposedly Proto has come up with a superior, longer-lasting rear bumper that is orange in color, but I haven't been able to get one yet.
The second problem with my SLG occurred after I cleaned and lubricated the gun. This time I used TAG "Mugg" lubricant instead of the DYE Slick lube included with the gun. After reassembly, I found that the gun was going into runaway full auto all by itself, sometimes after taking a shot and sometimes as soon as the gun was gassed up. I removed the bolt assembly and tried cleaning off the mugg and replacing it with the factory lube, but the problem persisted. After that I figured the problem was the sear, so I removed the grip frame and inspected it. It appeared fine, and I didn't notice any excessive wear either on the sear or the edge of the bolt where the sear grips it. At the suggestion of someone on another forum, I removed the sear spring and stretched it a bit. In the process I later realized that I had to clean off all the lubrication that might have been stuck to the sear. After reassembly, the full-auto problem went away.
Unfortunately, stretching the sear spring had caused another problem and my SLG was now refusing to fire reliably. It now took two or three trigger pulls to get the gun to go off, probably because the solenoid was now having to overcome both the increased tension of the sear spring and the force of the bolt. I was able to remedy this problem by using a fresher battery and increasing the dwell a notch.
The next time I used the SLG, I ran into problems again. The SLG's indicator light was blinking green, indicating dirty eye sensors. However, the eyes were clean and even after cleaning them again to make sure the error light persisted.
I do want to stress that every time my SLG pitched a fit, it did so at the very beginning of the day, so I was never surprised or caught in the middle of an important game without a gun to use. In fact, over the course of all these episodes it never once broke a ball, even when going into runaway full auto.
Programming the SLG is fairly straightforward but somewhat cumbersome. The left side of the grip must be removed to allow access to the dip switch box and the switches put into programming mode. You then use a combination of trigger pulls and button pushes to change the dwell, ROF, and firing mode while watching the 7-color LED for feedback. It's time-consuming, and I appreciate the fact that no one's going to be able to do this on the field. The SLG lacks true 3-shot burst and full-auto modes, but the PSP and Millennium modes do pretty much the same thing and are a little safer besides, since you have to be shooting the gun pretty quickly to get them to activate. I did notice that the 3-shot burst of the PSP mode automatically degrades itself to a 2-shot burst at 10bps, but at that speed the gun's eyes and antichop logic is usually going to even things out into a nearly full-auto behavior anyway.
The last time I used my SLG was last Saturday, about 7 months since I bought it. This time, the gun performed absolutely flawlessly and I put about 1500 rounds through it over the course of the afternoon. I broke 3 balls with the gun, but I believe all three were barrel breaks caused by underboring with brittle paint in cold weather. The bolt itself was clean.
Unless you're determined to have the cheapest-avalailable gun with a DYE UL frame, I would advise you to look at other guns instead of the UL SLG. Perhaps if DYE/Proto can resolve the problems with the sear and improve the tolerances of the frame, the Invert Mini, Dangerous Power G3, or a blackhearted Vibe are all probably better choices.
Dioblo Mongoose (half a year)
Smart Parts Epiphany (on year)
Proto SLG (maybe a mounth)
Dangerous Power Fussion (only tested)
Proto Ultralite SLG
Veiwloader Evolutions 2
Freak Jr. 14'
Cp clamping feed neck
Empire quick flip on/asa
Carlton/Crossfire 88/3000 carbon fiber tank
Clamping feed neck
not much kick
No On/Off ASA
First I need to give a huge thank you to the guys at Dye. I had purchased a regular SLG but it was having problems. When I sent it in to be worked on Dye was unable to find the parts to fix it and sent me the Ultralite SLG.
The Ultralite trigger fram is the most incredable feater on this marker. The one on the Ultrilight SLG is thick composite witch makes it light but fairly strong. I've pulled few trigers in my life and this is the best. When I was playing with my Ultalite SLG the triger felt so natural that firing my marker is almost thought less. The trigger is desgined with the piviot point behind the the actual triger. This makes is to you don't have to your hand coming strait on but it can be angeled up a little bit, witch is the position your hand is normaly in when playing paintball. This triger on the Ultralite fram is nicer then the one on Epiphany or my Dad's Fussion.
The stock barrel is verry well made but lacks something major on acriacy. I recived a Freak Barrled and with the freak the Ultralite SLG is very acurat.
The Ultrilite SLG comes with a stock clamping feed neck. I never used it since I had goten a nicier clamping feed neck for my old SLG witch had horibal feed neck. The stock feed neck on the Ultrilite SLG is acutaly the same one on the Proto Matrix Rail. I have heard a lot of complaints that because it is plastic the ring of the clamping feed neck breaks esaly. If don't want a hole new feed neck but don't want to stick witht he stock ring I know New dezine sells just rings.
Like most other single tube markers the Ultrilite SLG has bolt out back tecnolagy. This might not sound like a big deal. But After having to disasimble my old Ephiphany several times I desided that I should have bot something with bolt out back. Seriously it took me 6 minutes to disasemble the Epiph by only like five seconds to get to bolt of the SLG.
The Utrilite come with what is called a silencer. I'm not joking that is what is called. It is little peace of plastic with holes in it that sticks of the end of the plunger about an inch. I have no clue how the heck this works but it does work. The original SLG is a loud as all get out but the Ulrilite SLG is actualy fairly quiet.
The degassing button is fenomanal. The button is where you have to insert your alen rench in order to remove the back cap. Once press the button you marker degases and it is safe to remove the back cap. This pervents The back cap from becoming a rocket. Personaly I don't know why Dye doesn't put this on all it's markers.
As fare as the ASA goes it isn'r really a huge problem. I like on/of ASA but just because the SLG doesn't have one is no reason to not buy this marker.
Something realy cool that Dye does is they put a O ring sizer in with you spare parts kit. What you do is take the O ring and compar it to the pictures on the sizer the you know what size O ring you need to put where.
The Ultrilite SLG aslo come with a lot of high quality parts. Both the Regulator and the Board are the same ones you would find in the Dye Matix serioius witch are thousand dollar markers. The board comes equiped with all the important fireing modes, simi-atuo, PSP three shot birst, Millinium ramping, and NXL full-auto.
The grip is really nise. It also has three holes that enable you to adjust several things with out havint to remove the grip. It has two holes for the triger adjustment screws. And one that enables you get at the screw that hold you ASA on.
They way you insert a battery into the Ultrilight SLG is really cool. You slide it in and then it is pressed up agains two prongs. This means there are fewer wires. However you also have to make sure that you get right size battery. If you don't have the right battery easily avalibale just place a couple layers of duck tap on the botomm of the battery and that will fix it.
This is great marker with great featers for pairly low price.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, March 20th, 2009 at 3:36 pm PST