Its trigger is actuated by magnets, it has a
dual selector (switches from Electric to Manual
operation), operates with 18 volt rechargeable battery or
2 9 volt batteries, L.E.D. display features countdown
timer, shot counter, plus many other features, and it was
tested beyond 20 shots per second without shootdown but
is restricted to 13 shots per second (to comply with current industry standards.) Comes in power feed (for use with Warp Feed)
or vertical feed.
The Airgun Designs E-Mag is older, so while it may be available used and in a few cases new, it is not commonly available anymore.
I have shot many high end guns in my career and after each one I try I keep going back to my E-mag. I have shot and/or owned Vision Impulses, Timmys, Angels, Autococker (electro and manual), Bushies, and mech 'mags. My favorite so far has been my E-mag. I play tourney ball and some of the characteristics I look for in a gun are different than what others look for. While it is not as flashy as most other high end markers (the intro. of the X-mag and ULE bodies makes them look as good as they perform) it has many of the strengths I look for in a gun:
-Soft of Paint: The advent of the Level 10 is one reason I began liking my E-mag so much. I play back and this is one of the most important factors to me. Every second I am not shooting I am letting the other team bear down on my front players. As long as I am up shooting I keep them down for my teammates to advance.
-Reliability: I have been using my E-mag in tournaments for about a year and a half now and it has never let me down during a game. In the rare occasions where I am running, sliding or diving it has held up beautifully. The only unexpected maintenance it has seen was a slight tweaking of the Level 10 after about 6 months. This caused a slight leak down the barrel but the gun still shot. A 5 min part swap remedied the problem.
-Speed: This is also a big factor to me. While not the most important thing I look for it is very important nonetheless. The 3 way adjustable trigger makes for a very light and crisp pull. The blade trigger added a good 3-4 bps to my ROF and I would make it a highly recommended upgrade to your gun. I can keep up or exceed the Timmys, Angels, and Impulses out on the field.
-Accuracy: My E-mag has been one of the most accurate and consistent guns I have owned. With a little knowledge and some slight upkeep you can keep your mag shooting very flat over the chrono. I have gone strings of +/- 1 with a good paint & barrel match. The 1oz Lvl 10 Superbolt makes the gun have very little kick so the gun stays still when shooting long strings of paint. When I bought my Impulse after using my mag for so long I was amazed at the difference in the way the two shot. Sweetspotting became much more difficult when using my Impy than my E-mag.
-Low Profile: The more guns I shoot the more important this has become for me. Even playing back on the small 5 man fields snap shooting is a very important skill. The sleek design of the E-mag makes sight acquisition very fast and easy.
Warranty: I have had good experience with Airguns Designs when it comes to Warranty work. While I have never had to send my E-mag in for repairs or maintenance I have dealt with them with some of the Mechanical mags I had owned in the past.
If you are looking for the same characteristics as I am when it comes to choosing a gun I would definitely recommend the E-mag as the high end gun of choice. It does not have some of the "hype" that other high end guns have but it is a very solid choice in today's crowded market. I was slightly wary when I first purchased my E-mag but it has made me a true believer in this great marker.
Ego - better, more features, more competitive
Proto Matrix 06 - better, more features, more competitvie
Intimidator 03- not as good, alot of high end markers from around the emags hay day are general equal or lesser to a fully ULE'd emag.
Basic emag with X valve, upgraded with: LT3 trigger, ULE exile body, RPG ULE rail, ULE trigger frame.
Any upgrade that reduces weight on this gun is probably worth the money. Eyes would also be an excellent upgrade as it would allow you to use the level 7 bolt and thus increase your ROF.
Ive listed this in the review.
See the review below.
Note:this review is over the stock parts from the original gun from 2003 and not the upgraded one listed above. Also bold tags have been placed on things i wanted to draw your eye to, please excuse the fact they are placed quite arbitraily with no reguard to consistancy.
Out of the box
A big box from AGD arrived, it was foam lined and inside it was a shiny new Emag, I was very pleased to learn that the than new Level 10 bolt and Xvalve came installed from the factory. Also in the box were a few spare parts, and a very low budget instructional video on how to break down the Emag.
I did not chose the Emag because it was the prettiest, shiniest most colorful, or shapely. In my opinion it's what inside that counts. In any beauty contest the Emag would place very low, below some Spyders, the only thing it would be above would be Tippmann's and Brass Eagle markers! The Emag is very angular, consisting of a tube and squared off parts, there are lots of lines and angles on it making it look un-aerodynamic, not very streamlined. It slightly resembles a sub machine gun because of its fore grip/battery but not to the point of making you look like a freak.
The Emag came with the new level 10 bolt and aluminum X-valve. The level 10 was not tuned very well out of the factory and broke a PMI premium dangled into the breech after about 10 or so hits.
The stainless steel main body had brown colored blemishes inside of it out of the box. These blemishes are not rust and do not affect performance. The stainless steel of the body also scratched up considerably after a year, surprising of steel. The aluminum parts, the body rail grip and battery case, were anodized well and after that time did not scratch as much as the main body.
The body rail fans out and widened at the area under the valve. This is totally cosmetic as far as I know; it and serves no purpose other than to add weight. The sight rail included with the Emag is very well machined and anodized. I am sure it added an extra 50 to the price tag. I removed it.
X-Valve and lvl 10 bolt
This Emag came with the newer and lighter Al constructed Xvalve and Level10 bolt. These parts are lighter than the original parts that would have normally came with the Emag. Itís a sign that AGD is starting to think about what players want. The LVL was tweaked well out of the factory but I made it even softer. This gun cannot chop a ball. The main flaw with the lvl 10 is you must open it up and
The trigger frame on my Emag was not the standard Emag frame as it did not have a back hump and finger groves. I was told it was a ULE Emag frame by an AGD tech, which is nice. Its frame isn't a true 45 because it lacks the proper grips, I can fire on its double trigger with a single finger as if it was a normal pistol grip and I have really big hands. There is an LED display on the bottom left of the grip. It is only one line and is accessed with the 2 recessed buttons on the back of the grip. The LED displays info on shots fired over all, shots fired since activation, rate of fire, burst modes(removed in version 3.2), and game timer, shot buffer and triggers sensor. I don't mess with these features. When I had to select a duck bill or asa adaptor for my Emag, I found that most duckbills need to have a flat top(like the tippmann 98's asa) or they will not fit the oversized Emag grip. I used a grinder to make my old adaptor fit. Not a major problem, but watch out for it when selecting asa adaptors or just get a rail (I recommend Custom Products).
The trigger doesn't have much side to side play and is completely different from other electros' triggers. Instead of springs it uses magnets to return the trigger. Up to four magnets can be placed in the frame on top of the trigger for maximum trigger weight. For minimum trigger weight I dropped 3 small o-rings into the magnet area and put a single magnet on top of them. Instead of a micro switch, the Emag uses a magnet and a hall effect sensor to trigger the solenoid. A magnet placed on the back of the trigger activates hall-effect sensor when the trigger is pulled. This feature removes the need for a cheap effective micro switch, and replaces it with an expensive electronic sensor. There was no need to put in this sensor, a cheap .05 cent micro switch would have done the job fine if not better. The length of the pull out of the box is pretty good but the video showed me how to make it smaller. My advice is to totally ignore adjusting the internal trigger stop(major pain to do), but instead turn the selector switch all the way back, past the E until it points towards you. This automatically sets the trigger to the smallest effective length. Even at the smallest setting the Emagís trigger is still much larger than other electros triggers, it doesnít compare to any other top end marker.
There is a selector switch on the trigger where the safety normally is (the safety is now further back). It toggles between manual mode (M) and electronic mode (E). On electronic mode it uses the hall effect sensor and fires up to 16 bps (UPDATE in version 3.2 it is 20 bps. In manual mode, the Emag functions like an RT pro, and uses the Reactive Trigger. I've only played around with this mode using it in a game only once because of battery failure. Because of the solenoid attached to sear, the reactivity of the Emags' trigger is much less compared to a normal RT Mag(see rapid firing later on). Like a normal RT it is possible to "short stroke" and double feed. When the manual mode is toggled when there is still a battery on, it fires in a Hybrid mode. It says in the manual it fires up to the advertised 26 bps, but with a lighter pull. I've used this many times but I really don't see the advantage of this over Pure manual mode or E mode. Some users said that they achieved allot of bounce firing in this mode but others find it more difficult to fire quickly(I'm in this group). In manual mode the trigger pull is pretty long and can't be made shorter. Itís All the way from its resting position to the back of the frame.
One of the most prominent features on the Emag is its huge battery pack that also acts as a fore grip. Because of its weight and size the battery is vexing and is one of the low points of the Emag. The battery is an 16 volt NiMH, it's really big but doesnít last long at all. According to the manual it can get 20,000 but the most Iíve shot before a recharge was around 10,000. Instead of an on off switch there is a hole on the top of the battery where a "key" is inserted to turn it off. The key is a tiny yellow stick that is put in to cut off current. This small yellow key is pretty ridiculous and easy to lose, how much harder would it have been to place a 3rd button on the back of the grip for power, I've seen other users put them on tethers attached to the gun to avoid losing the key. The Emag should have been designed to use a weaker solenoid and utilize a lighter on/off pin, thus freeing it of its big useless battery.
The stock barrel of the Emag isn't bad. Looking side of it I can see that it was well honed and smooth. It also has 2 ball detents instead of the normal one (to prevent double feeding with the warp feed system), and it can be set for a left, right or center feed configuration. Its quality is comparable to the auto cocker stock barrel, which is pretty good. Use large bore paint with this barrel though, it's a wide .69 calibers.
Light weight isnít one of the Emagís strengths, my Emag with tank warp feed, revolution, weighs a whopping 13 lbs. AGD stuck to using SS as the choice materials for their bodyís as stubbornly as Nintendo stayed away from Disk's. This is the heaviest set up I've shot. It is possible to reduce weight through upgrades; most parts on the Emag can be replaced with ULE equivalents.
On the field and in action.
Known problems and issues
On the field in the first few times I pull the trigger (in E or M mode) the gun clicks several times, and it fires as normal. The number is usually, 1 but its done it up to a dozen times. I've learned this was caused by an not cleaning and oiling gun often. My badÖ
The level 10's brass power tube tip has an edge worn off. It was caused when I applied pressure from underneath the twist lock barrel to lower velocities in tourneys to cheat. The upward pressure put friction on the bolt which grinded up the power tube tip, it did get me and extra 10 fpsÖ
Rate of fire
The Emagís rate of fire is quite slow in comparison to other high ends, mainly because of the lack of bounce from recoil, and from the ridiculous 20 bps Limit
There is little recoil during firing because the little reciprocating mass, and poor sensitivity from the hall effect sensor. This problem was corrected with software updates, but these updates will never be released to the public.
Full auto stick
When the rate of fire limit is reached what ever it may be, some Emags get stuck on full auto and will only stopped when the trigger is held. My Emag is one of these, the problem is correctable by switching the wires into the solenoid, I kinda like this feature actually I think it will stay.
Cleaning on field and off
During a game if a barrel break, or an even rarer chop occurs, cleaning out the barrel is a simple process of twisting and sliding out the twist lock barrel. Because the barrel is also the breach it can be cleared quickly. If you happen to use a ULE body with cocker threads I have no idea how you can clear a break in the barrel quickly. Shoving a swab from the front might even make this problem worse.
Runaway or rapid fire with the Emag is much more difficult than an ULE Custom, (which in turn is harder than an RT pro) because of its heavy complex sear assembly. Although it is possible to achieve consistent fully automatic fire, it never gets faster than 18bps; it's possible it's just the Dynaflow's fault.
Average around 600 from a 68/3k tank. The Level 10 bolt decreases the efficiency of an already poor performer. The guns operating pressure is between 800-600, but if the tank is staring to empty the gun will chuff at 800PSI.
Because of the Emagís good balance, its overhanging back end it serves as a perfectly fine snatch grip, several machinist also produce bolt on after market snatch grips for mags.
For a good Picture of my current Mag look in the Automag forumís picture thread.
The Emag is a fine high end marker, though there are design elements I donít agree with. For the same price markers can be purchased for the same price with better performance and more features. -1/2
-It's ROF is capped low in comparison to others in its class. -1/2
-trigger lacks adjustability of others in its class. -1/2
-it is unnecessarily heavy due to poor choice of body materials, and extra fat left on the stock parts.-1/2
-the battery is unnecessarily large while others in its class work longer better on a 9v. -1/2
-its efficiency is poor in comparison to others in its class. -1/2
7 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, October 27th, 2006 at 2:59 pm PST
Angel 05 Speed
too many to list....
ule body if it doesnt have one
Mech, Electronic, or Hybrid
Dont plan on getting an aftermarket board
Only hpa (not really a weakness)
I love my e-mag. After owning a mag for a year i sold it and wanted to get back into them so i picked up a nice e-mag at a great price. In a perfect world guns dont break down and need maintencing, the e-mag is as close to that as youll find. Agd managed to bring all the great things about the mag and incorperate them into an electronic style. A little oil into the valve every now and then and your done with maintenance. The battery is easy to take off and charge and lasts for a good 20,000 shots. It is a bit on the heavy side, but its a very high quality battery and will last for a long time. If your worried about chops, put a level ten on it and your set. Its a little on the heavy side but its understandable. Mine isnt too bad as i have an xvalve and ule body. A big diffence from the standard emag valve and a p/f body. I love the fact that you can easily alternate between mech and electronic with the flip of a switch. There was obviously a lot of thought put into the design. If you think its ugly then you havent seen one with a ule and xvalve. They are infact very secksi guns. Now as far as speed dont expect to shoot as fast as other high ends easily. A new flat kinda blade style trigger helps a bunch and with the proper adjustments the pull is reduced to very little. The pull isnt as easy as other electronic guns but trust me this thing will still rip. Air efficiency is decent, not perfect but better than a lot of other guns out there. On a 47/3000 i get a hopper and 3 140rnd pods. Thats with a really small tank (i had to pick one up as this gun requires high pressure output and my 68/45 is a low pressure output owell).
Overall an awesome gun. A pleasure to own and use. I like knowing that i can count on this gun to work and perform flawlessly time and time again.
Heavy It feels like its unbreakable, Fast and reliable both Manual and Electric mode
Manual is poorly done, software upgrade locking out modes
When I ordered the E-Mag w/ Tac One body I was very much excited having a paintball marker that felt like something. Unlike most markers out on the market that are too light and fell as if you'd break it if you accidently dropped it or bumped it against something you shouldn't. I wasn't happy once I found out that the software was upgraded so your 3-6 round burst mode was no longer cappable. However, calling Roman at Airgun Design and expressing my feelings, AGD took the marker back and "Down-graded the software back to the burst modes (BTW Thank You, Roman). The On/Off pin has a lot to be desired, being of plastic and easy to misplace. A simple teather takes care of this minor situation. The gun is a major workhorse, dirt, mud, and rain has no chance of keeping this marker down.
If you down mind a heavy marker and the cash is there, Its a Must have! Thank you AGD for yet another great marker
light trigger(or snappy, your choice)
no chops(lvl 10 bolt)
low maintenance(oil it every few cases)
takes some work to get it set up and tuned
doesnt come w/ a bottomline
Ok, today was the first day that i used my marker, although ive had it for a few months now. i had dry-fired arond 2000 shots through it before playing(weeks before) and knew what to do with the lvl 10 bolt(tuning etc.) I got to the field and was shooting hot, so i turned it down. with 800-850 psi direct input, the bolt started firing consistantly right at 275 fps(red spring). i ran 3/4 of a case through my marker, three different types of paint. draxxus blaze, white box mercenary, and stingers. all cheap paint and all were shooting w/ no problems(and straight). I was expecting to get around 500-600 shots off of my 68/45 filled to 3000 but it proved me wrong and was getting around 800 shots before the pressure dropped below 800 and stopped shooting. not great consistency, but i was expecting worse, and its not too bad. firing this marker... heres the great part. Beforehand, i spent close to two hours tweaking the trigger magnets, putting spacers(got my trigger to shoot if i blow hard on it) and adjusted the pull so that in electric mode, it shoots about 1.5mm from where it rests, and then stops. it makes it extremely easy to walk because all you have to do is move your fingers half a centimeter and really fast. I played the first two games in mech mode, and was quite impressed with the reactivity and control i had on the trigger. i wasnt fanning the trigger, but if i was trying, i could probably have shot it close to 8 or 9 bps. I enjoyed the feel of the reactive mech trigger, and loved the speed of e-mode. on a side note, the Xcel barrel that came with my gun shot very well, and shot through breaks within 6 shots or so(i kept forgetting to turn e-mode off when the game was over and shot into my barrel condom) I didnt try hybrid mode, but when i was dry-firing my marker, i was impressed. if i can adjust my sear so that the reactivity is spread to the trigger sooner(hard to explain, sear gets puller, sear pushes back and pushes trigger back) it would be possible to rapidfire the trigger extremely easy(but illegally, only used for showing little kiddies what my marker can do :-P) I didnt use hybrid mode because it is slower than e-mode, and isnt as comfortable as mech mode, but i will probably test it out next time.
i rate it a 10, because i love this product. It is a little expensive for what you get. I got mine when AGD was having a sale for $200 off. for the price, you can get almost any other marker, but if it is what you want, then it is a great marker.
E-Mag with warp left ULE mainbody, x-valve, lvl 10, warp, scepter barrel, dynaflow tank, intel between warp and gun
barrel, x-valve if it doesnt come with it, fast loader (halo, egg, warp)
small and tight
very little recoil
interchangable main bodies
cocker thread (ULE mainbody)
i like this gun alot. im a little biest because i am a mag lover. it is such a fast gun. it will shoot as fast as you can pull the trigger. i can put out a laser of paint with this gun. this gun is nice and tight. it is very short only about 7-8 inces long and not very tall either. my gun is alot smaller than most with the warp on it. i like the warp on it but that is a personal preferance. because of the blow forward oporation of the gun it has very little recoil so you can keep it on target more easily. i bought a new custom e-mag off of the agd online store so my gun came with x-valve, lvl 10, and ULE mainbody. the ULE mainbody has cocker threads so many barrels can be gotten for it. the lvl 10 is a must. this gun does not have an eye so if you dont have a lvl 10 it will chop paint. on the down side this gun is more heavy than most. i was playing with this gun for a while and i went to play with my friends karnivor and i almost threw it across the room when i picked it up. the gun is a little steep in price also. mine was 1000 dollars but i got the x-valve, lvl 10, and the ULE mainbody. so when you think about it that really isnt that much money. tuning is a problem that i have encountered. when i got it the lvl 10 wasnt tuned. it took me a few trys but i got it to work exellently. the trigger also has to be tuned every time you adjust the pull. because is uses the hall sensor to fire the gun when ever you lesson the trigger pull you need to adjust the magnet in the trigger. it is not too difficult. it just requires some tinkering. there is a mode on the gun that helps you adjust it. the display will show you if the sensor is activated or not. that helps alot. the charger is a weakness. there is nothing wrong with it but it is a car charger. although almost all electros come with car chargers. i wish they would come with wall chargers.
I would recomend this product to heavy users. Only people that are frequent players will get their moneys worth out of this gun. Igive it a 10 because I love paintball and im getting every pennies worth. Im a mid player and this gun is perfect for me.
Automag RT Pro
(Tested) Angel Speed, Angel IR3, Angel A4, pre-2k3 Shocker, 2k3 Shocker, Vision Impulse, Diablo Matrix, Dye Matrix, DM4, Bob Long Defiant, Bob Long Intimidator(old model), Bob Long Intimidator(2002),GX3 Autococker w/ Eblade, Homebuilt Autococker with E2, Evil Omen, 2k2 Bushmaster
Emag ULE, Xvalve w/Lvl 10, SP Freak kit, Crossfire 45/4500 Nitro tank, Evo II hopper
Evo II or HALO loader. Depending on what you shoot in a game, you may want a 68/4.5k tank. ULE body
-Battery is not required for operation
-Shot effeciency(with proper Lvl 10 settings)
-Trigger adjustment not explained in manual
-Level 10 adjustment time consuming
-Battery pin easily lost
-Level 10: The level 10 mechanical anti-chop system is phenominal. With the proper tweakings, the marker will shoot all but the worst paint without chopping. Since it is mechanical, the anti-chop works even when the battery is removed from the marker.
-Trigger: the trigger is reasonably easy to adjust and can be made very short and light. However, trigger adjustment was not included in my manual(which was two sheets of paper). It was easy to find on the automags.org forums, but it should be included in the manual. The magnets make for a nice trigger pull, and it can be walked easily. UPDATE: Placing shims under the magnets in the body rail to move them further away with seriously reduce the trigger resistance. Any nonmagnetic material can be used, as I now use a small O-ring and folded piece of paper as shims.
-ROF: the board is capped at 20 bps, but that's really not an issue. With my trigger adjusted, I have done 16 bps. That was tested over a chronograph with a bps counter. I outshot my 12v X-board Revvy on several occasions, which is why I bought an Evo II.
-Battery: Many people do not like the battery, but I don't notice it to be honest. It is in a good position as a grip, and it's not uncomfortable to hold. The battery lasts 20,000 shots, and it charges to 80% in an hour, and in four hours will charge to 100% in "trickle charge." This means that the battery has no "memory", so the battery always charges back to it's original capacity. That being said, the battery can only be turned off by a small yellow plastic pin that slides into it. This is not a bad idea in and of itself, but this pin is not attached to anything and thus it is very easily lost(I've lost two).
-Manual Mode: This is, to my knowledge, the only marker that functions without power. Inserting the pin and flipping the mode selector switch to "M" allows the marker to function like a standard RT Pro. The marker also works without the battery attached at all, which means if it dies on you during a day of play, you can play while the battery charges.
-Weight: Weight is a non-issue. A number of people have complained about the weight, but I seriously doubt they've ever actually held one. They just hear that body is steel and freak out. However, my marker with an empty hopper and a full tank weighs less than my friend's IR3 with an empty hopper and full tank. Both hoppers were 12v revvys. UPDATE: The ULE makes a significant weight reduction.
-Effeciency: I get 730 shots to a 68ci/3000 psi tank. That's computed from the shot counter on the board, not from "a hopper and x number of pods."
-Size: the length of the marker is comfortable, especially with a short drop on the tank. However, the height of the marker is somewhat higher than its competition. I would prefer it if the marker was just a little shorter. A ULE centerfeed body drops about 3" off the height(my marker compared to a ULE RT Pro). UPDATE: I now have a ULE body and the height change is very noticable. It is now easier to keep behind a bunker simply because there is less to hide.
-Customer Service: I haven't had any problems with this marker. However, when I did have problems with my old Automag, the customer service at AGD was top notch.
-Price: $800. For a high end tourney marker, this is a good price in my opinion. It can keep up with Angels and the like(though the Matrix tends to outshoot it speedwise), and it blows the electro cockers out of the water.
-Maintenance: Oil through the bottom line or hoses every month or after every few days of play. Field stripping is by degassing, removing one screw, and removing the valve from the rear. The valve requires practically no maintenance, and it is all O-rings which are easily replaced from an RT Pro parts kit.
You get alot for what you pay for. The marker is easy to maintain, customer service is up there, the new 3.2 software is quite good(and 4.0 is coming out soon from what I hear). You can attain a very high ROF with a little trigger tweaking, which involves only two allen wrenches for 3 point adjustment. The battery lasts quite a while, recharges quickly to a usable strength, and the marker doesn't need it anyway. While it is a little tall, the marker is a reasonable weight(comperable to an IR3 Angel with similar set up) and length. There are a few niggling problems (battery pin is easy to lose, level 10 can be a pain to tweak at times, manual is sketchy on certain things), but they do not really detract from the marker overall and they are rather easily fixed. If you want one, get it now, because they're not being made anymore.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, February 4th, 2005 at 12:48 am PST
ULE Automag with x valve & level 10 (my trusty backup mag)
Armotech Mars evo (e spyder clone, dosen't come close)
ICD B2K2 (breaks easily, feels cheap)
Vision imp (cheaply made)
stiffi - lightest barrel, quiet, very accurate
Dye Throttle preset 71/4500
If you have an older emag (pre 2003) then it might be a little heavy
Lightweight parts are available, can make it lighter than the new X-Mag
Highest rates of fire, fastest recharging valve
Level 10 = no chops
AGD = reliability & C.S.
Emags need the Level 10 upgrade, the new ones come with it stock.
Im a long time Automag user, (since 1994) and I have never had any problems with my mag. AGD makes amazingly reliable products and the E-Mag is possibly the most reliable electronic marker available. It can fire 20,000 shots on a single charge, and if you accidentally spill acid all over your electronics and fry the board then you can switch to manual mode and keep playing all day long!
The new ULE bodies are awesome! They make the E-mag lighter, better looking, and more accurate due to Angel ball detents and cocker threaded barrels (the old AGD twist lock may cause the barrel to move a little, meaning less consistency/acuracy) the new cocker threaded bodies make sure that you have a solid shooting platform.
Also the new X valve is a stock feature on the emag, it's all aluminum so it makes the mag even lighter. Also new for the stock emag is the Level 10 bolt upgrade, this is a bolt that will bounce off of paint instead of chop through it.
I have my trigger adjusted so that I can walk it very nicely, high rates of fire are easy to achieve, and the balls seem to land right on top of eachother...right in the middle of the guys goggles im shooting at.
Emags are great guns, X-mags are better but the differences are almost insignificant, performance wise they are the same. Performance wise all high end guns are pretty much the same...( all guns have to crono at the same fps right? )The e-mag is just more reliable, a lot more reliable. Plus if something does happen to go wrong with your mag Airgun Designs will usually fix it very quickly...unlike some companies that take months to return your gun, because they have to go to england, and may end up in the bermuda triangle...
Airgun Designs Emag w/ WARP left body, AGD Warp Feed, Odyssey HALO B hopper, Smart Parts Teardrop 14" barrel, AGD 68/3000 Adjustable FLATLINE tank with custom QD Drop forward, Level 10 Anti Chopping kit
Level 10 Kit, Adjustable HPA tank
Durable, fast recharge rate, fast ROF, Hybrid mode, PURE MANUAL MODE, compact
Original frame so its heavy, simplistic body style
I have been an AGD supporter for years, I finally got my hands on an EMag and I have to say its one of the finest markers I've shot. Its compact, quiet and reliable and uses the infamous RT valve technology to give it an INSANELY high recharge rate. Coupled with an Adjustable HPA tank I'm getting great results. The electronic trigger is short and the magnetic return gives it a SMOOTH feel, and the Hybrid mode stays true to the RT feel while staying electro. The main selling point to me is the fact with the flick of a switch the gun can go into PURE manual mode which no other marker can do (except the Xmag). Its very simple to maintain and its extremely reliable
If your looking for a solid, compact and great gun then AGD is for you... what it lacks in looks it makes up in performance
68 Classic Automag
68 Classic Retromag
AGD RT Pro
AGD RTX Pro
2k2 Angel LCD
AGD Emag w/Level 10
AGD 68ci 3000psi Flatline
eVLution II (For Hopper On Setup)
Halo B (For Warp Setup)
13" Armson SSR, Stealth and Pro-Series
PMI Trracer Tagmaster
Level 10 (It really is worth it!)
FAST Loader, especially if you don't have Level 10
- Adjustable Trigger Setup
- Customer Service
- "Mag" Reliability
- Manual Mode
Some level 10 kits give more problems than others. In my case, mine is touchy around the 250 fps mark (indoor play). Of course, thats the upgrade, not the marker.
It *is* heavier than other markers in it's category, but personally I don't find it a problem. Now that Emags come stock with the XValve (lighter valve) and the ULE trigger frame, this isn't as much a problem. It is also worth noting AGD is coming out with a ULE body that takes cocker threaded barrels soon...
I love this marker. At no time have I ever considered it to be any less reliable, accurate or worse off than any other marker choice I could have made.
One thing to note. With the trigger adjustability, most emags are going to be setup for the person in question. Don't judge someone else's trigger if you don't like it. I've seen setups that you could walk like no other, and others which couldn't be walked if your life depended on it.
Just a note, previous to owning Level 10, I didn't have any chopping problems in ELECTRONIC mode. However, in Hybrid or Manual mode, I made peesoup regularily. :)
If you have ever loved Mags, and found yourself moving away from them due to being 'old' or 'chopping machines', the modern serving is worth your look. With the advent of Level 10, the Mag line is now in a position to compete once again.
Check it out, you won't be disappointed.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, March 12th, 2003 at 9:44 am PST