Tippmann is reintroducing a paintball legend with a few modern updates, including a redesigned integrated feed neck that fits most current standard hoppers, as well as a redesigned ergonomic grip for enhanced comfort and control. Most of the other great features that helped establish the original as a true paintball legend still remain.
• 11” Performance Aluminum Barrel For Accuracy
• Smooth Short Stroke Design For Speed
• Redesigned Integrated Feed Neck Fits Most Standard Hoppers
• Auto Receiver For Faster Firing – Hold trigger and pump repeatedly for continuous firing
• Solid Cast Aluminum Receiver and Non Corrosive Internals for Durability
• Redesigned Ergonomic Grip For Comfort And Control
• Integrated Tank Adapter with Built-in Gas Line
• Front and Rear Sling Mounts
The Tippmann SL-68 II is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
Though there aren't too many similar pumps, I've owned or used the following:
Splatmaster (even trying to compare this to anything would be an insult to both parties, but here goes: slow, inaccurate, and for the time vastly overpriced. But still, it was one of the first when there were no other options)
Tracer (cheaply constructed, but adequate)
PGP (inaccurate and overpriced, but solid)
Hammer (inexpensive, light)
King Cobra 14" (heavy, awkward, velocity adjustment is a joke, but sniper-like accuracy)
The SL-68 II is superior to all the above in many ways. The SL (at the time of release) was more expensive than the above.
Sold off all my semiautos (Automag, Prolites, Patriots, etc.) Primary marker was a $1200 Mag with SS barrel, remote, nitro, VL300 agit., ACI Sub-zero chamber, etc. etc.
Now I just play with a stock SL-68 II with 12 grams and either a 40 round TASO "ammo box" or just with 10 round tubes.
I can't highly recommend any upgrades I have encountered as “needed.” The SL-68 II is ready to go as-is. A red dot or electronic sight might be a good addition, but for that matter it might benefit any paintgun. An aftermarket barrel might make the paintgun quieter if that is a chief concern, but isn't needed for accuracy.
I've used this marker for over 13 years straight. I have tried other SL-68s with upgrades to barrels, hoppers, sighting systems and air systems, and I have never found the need for an upgrade of any kind. See more in review below.
Easy to clean
Velocity externally adjustable
Feed neck doesn’t accept modern hoppers.
Receiver can have burrs.
SL-68s uncommon nowadays.
The SL-68 II is easily the best pump paintgun I have ever owned, played with, or had to face in a game. My SL-68 II is 13 years old and has never disappointed.
It has a one-piece cast metal receiver with a bottomline air setup and built-in feed elbow. No multi-part 45 grips with auto-response triggers and hooptybobs to have come loose, no feed elbow to swivel loose. The bottomline passes through the grip of the frame and up into the valve. The grip protects the air system entire and I’ve never encountered a leak of any sort in any SL I’ve encountered in 13 years. The barrel is not threaded but is held in by a friction grip and allen screw. You never have to worry about cross-threaded barrels or dinged threads not working. It makes barrel change simple and fast. There are a minimum of moving parts internally so there are less things to break. Also, everything inside is rustproof. The receiver is a single cast magnesium alloy, which is strong and amazingly lightweight. In another review on this site it mentions that the receiver is made of “cast iron” which is ridiculous. Also that it “rusts”, which defies the laws of physics and everything I learned in chemistry. The receiver will never rust; it is chemically and physically impossible.
Few parts in the marker, few things to worry about, maintain or replace. That translates into a savings of time, money and worry. You also don’t need to be an airsmith to address any problems, of which I have never encountered. Not one. All internal parts for the SL-68 II are still available through Tippmann.
If you need to strip the gun in the field, that means there’s something wrong with the user, not the device. I can’t conceive of anything that could happen which would require such a procedure mid-game. It just isn’t possible. Between games for cleaning or whatnot it is dead simple to strip. Unscrew one single hex screw to remove the barrel pump, arm and bolt. Unscrew the rear cap by hand or with the hex key and remove the hammer and spring (and valve if truly needed). That’s it. If you wanted to remove the hammer assembly you could do so easily at this point, but aside from a broken spring (which again I have never encountered in 13 years) there’s no reason to do so. Rinse with water, let dry, add oil, reassemble, play. Simple. So long as you properly clean and oil the marker (as you must do with any machine) you won’t ever have any problems.
EASY TO CLEAN
There’s a reason why every major paintball field used to use SL-68s, durability, simplicity of maintenance and ease of cleaning. Apart from being sure not to spray water into the bottomline tank receiver, you can just spray the marker down with a garden hose and let dry in the sun. The best bet is to leave the CO2 attached, unload the paint completely, fire off any gas currently in the valve and then spray with water. The only thing that ever gets dirty is the barrel and chamber, and then mainly because of buying junky paint. A problem with any marker regardless of type or price.
During the game, if a ball breaks, there is a convenient port on the side of the receiver so you can feed a cable squeegee through. An amazingly simple thing which is something lacking on paintguns costing 10 times as much. Mind-boggling, really. Pull the broken paint OUT of the marker, rather than using a straightline squeegee to first shove all the paint into the bolt area, and then trying to pull it out. It’s amazing that all paintguns aren’t built this way. I read reviews on this site which say their one complaint is that it’s impossible to squeegee the marker in-game, and that it’s too hard to remove the barrel to squeegee in-game, to which I can only assume that they don’t actually own an SL in the first place, are blind or something worse. The cleaning port is the most blatantly obvious feature of the marker, and is one of its chief selling points.
Bad paint breaks, that’s just how it goes. So like any marker you need to test to see what paint feeds best. My group tends to play rain or shine, and as rain gets into the barrel and the humidity increases the balls tend to break more. The cleaning port is a Godsend, and the cleaning cable conveniently stores in a storage space in the pump foregrip.
EXTERNAL VELOCITY ADJUSTMENTS
A hex screw on the side of the bolt which is easily seen on the cleaning port. Every quarter turn equates to approximately 15 fps or so.
The barrel is short, but the range is correspondingly great. Longer barrels might be accurate, but their range is shorter. The effective range in woods is 30-40 yards. If you could actually get a straight-line view you could easily get 60+ yards of accurate fire. In the open you can rain shots easily. My stock SL-68 II can get 8 of 10 shots onto a paper plate-sized target at 75 feet. Better paint will yield better results, and it is easy to get consistent shots to 100 feet and beyond. If you look down a stock barrel they are not mirror-shined. They are stock, basic aluminum. They work and work well. They seem to be in the middle range for paint (.689?) and will throw most brands equally. I’ve found that Marbellizer and “pro” level paints work great.
I have tried a 14" All-American barrel on a teammate’s SL-68 II and it made the marker very much quieter, but not appreciably any more (or less) accurate than the stock 10" barrel, mainly because effective range is limited in a game. For example, you might be able to shoot accurately to 300 feet, but will never get a 300-foot view to anyone in the woods. For that reason alone – noise – one might consider that barrel, but that would be the only consideration. Smart Parts no longer produces the barrel, so any that you'll find (if at all) will be used or a lucky stash found in a warehouse somewhere.
J&J currently produces a 14" ceramic barrel, which is the only currently manufactured aftermarket barrel available. I have not tested them, so I couldn't recommend or discourage the purchase of one, though they are ported so it stands to reason that they will make the marker quieter. I will try to update this review once I have had a chance to test one.
I have two Tippman aftermarket 14” barrels which I recently acquired and will test. They are ported and braked in the last 4”, and it stands to reason that they will make the marker quieter, but testing will reveal all (I hope). The barrels were found on eBay, which is probably your best bet for used SJ-68 IIs and barrels.
A simple red dot sight (like those for BB guns) may be of benefit since the front blade sight is mounted to the pump forearm and therefore moves. Any amount of time spent target shooting with the SL-68 II will compensate easily.
The marker is super light, even with paint and air. It’s so light that a big tank, like a 20 oz, will make it a bit back-heavy. I’ve found that a 12 gram setup, or a small 7 or 9 oz tank is perfect for balance. You can run around all day and weight or fatigue will never be a concern.
The grip angle yields a natural “point” and it’s easy to bring to bear on a target. The stroke of the pump is short and quick, and like the pistol grip, fits the hand well. Everything is within easy reach. It is easy to chrono the marker and adjust the velocity at the same time. The feed elbow is off to the side. The sight rail is grooved to accept any dovetail accessory, but doubles as iron sights effectively.
For many reasons the SL-68 II is inexpensive. The paintgun is durable so parts and maintenance are cheap: oil and the occasional o-ring are it (I have never had to replace a single part on my SL-68 II at all, ever. I bought two more SL-68s as loaners for friends and neither have needed any repairs, and both were purchased used.) Since the marker is a pump, you shoot less paint and therefore save money. Pump play also trains accuracy, which also saves paint and money. SL-68s are available used on eBay or from paintball fields, and can be purchased for very little, usually less than $40, but are still excellent markers.
On the downside, and I find them to not be terrible bad, are that some SLs have little casting marks and burrs on the receiver on the dovetail mount. On those SLs where this happens, it makes adding a scope mount a problem. This can be easily corrected with a nail file, but still, it’s worth mentioning. It has never affected the functioning of any SL that I have used or seen used.
The feed elbow is made for older hoppers (like the 40 round TASO “ammo boxes” or the Zap/Brass Eagle ones from a few years back) so you will need to get an adaptor to make them fit. Another option is to make your own adaptor from PVC plumbing fittings. I find that for stalking and pump-style play, the need for a 300 round loader just doesn’t exist. 40-60 rounds is more than adequate, though I do have a three 150 round hoppers and adaptors for big games.
With SL-68s less common nowadays you will have little choices in the aftermarket arena. Luckily there aren’t really any needs for aftermarket parts.
Between myself and my teammates we have five SL-68s, and not a single one of them has ever broken, sprung a leak or let us down. Three of the five SLs are over 13 years old, and have fired tens, if not hundreds, of thousands of paintballs.
I highly recommend the SL-68 II! It is every bit the workhorse you’d expect from Tippmann, and Tippmann still sells parts for it. It’s worth every penny new or used, and if you can still find one for sale new, snap it up as quick as you can. Definitely a 10 and a must-have!
Tippmann 68 Special
Tippmann Pro Carbine
Tippmann 98 Custom
PMI Pirahana EXT 2K3
Tippmann 98 Custom
GTA Inline Expansion Chamber
GTA Double Trigger
32* Star Fire Bolt
Madmann Spring Kit
J&J 14" Ceramic Barrel
Viewloader 12V Revolution w/ X-Board
JCS 6" Offset 3/8" Dovetail Sight Rail
Magnacraft 3-9X30 Illuminated Scope
Thunder Pig In-Line CO2 Gauge
JCS Combat Folding Stock w/RVA
32* Coiled Remote
PMI 20oz. CO2 Tank
New Barrel - I use the J&J 14" Ceramic
Feedneck adapter w/VL200 Hopper
Majorly Gas Efficient
Doesn't shoot 15-22bps (Strenght to me!!!)
When i first started playing paintball in the early 90's the first marker i ever used was the SL-68 II Pump. It wasn't until a year or two that i finally used a semi automatic and forgot how much fun the pumps were.
A few months ago fate happened to place one of these back in my hands, and it made me feel like a kid learning to play all over again.
Allow me to tell you about the strengths of this marker Warning, Speedball and Tourney players will find most of this to be weakness because the marker does not shoot 15-22bps!!!
Lightweight - Fully loaded with a VL200 hopper this marker barely weighs over 1lb!!!
Quiet - If you play woodsball you know that quiet can mean being found or not, this marker is quiet i mean REAL QUIET, and when i put my 14" J&J Barrel on it, you could barely hear it fire at all!!!
Accurate - If you've never shot a pump, ask someone who has and they will tell you what I'm telling you about this marker, its HIGHLY accurate. You don't need a scope, a red dot, or a raised sight raid, just use the sight rail on the marker and you will be dead on every time.
Durability - The receiver of this marker is a 1 piece solid steel construction and would take a sledge hammer to break.
Gas Efficiency - I use a 9oz. CO2 tank with this marker and it lasts me all day, this marker is the most gas efficient thing i've ever fired
Chopping - I rarely chop a ball unless i'm auto-pumping (see below for desc.) and over feed the chamber. There is an open port on the side so you can see your balls you are feeding into the chamber to prevent double feeding.
Ease of Maint - Field stripping this marker is a breeze, you loosed the front screw and pull out the barrel which also removes the pump handle and front bolt. Then unscrew the back end cap and pop out the rear valve/powertube. Boom you are done!!! There are less than 8 pieces total in the internals of this marker and take less than a minutes to clean.
Rate of fire - this marker has 2 modes of fire, one pump one trigger pull one shot, just like any regular shotgun, OR you can use the auto-pump mode, which is simply this; hold down the trigger and start pumping, the marker will fire as fast as you can pump. I've maxed mine out at about 4-5 per second, but to be honest i never shoot that fast in a game, its not what the pump is designed for.
Feedneck adapter - If you want to use a modern hopper you need a feedneck adapter, the solid steel feedneck is designed for the "old school" 50-150 round tippmann hoppers.
Hopper - Personally all i recommend is the VL200. any agitating hopper is overkill because this marker will not shoot as fast as they feed. Just by pumping the marker it will agitate the gravity hopper enough for what you need.
Barrel - As far as i know the only after market barrel you can still get for this marker is the J&J Ceramic Barrel, and i have it on mine. It works like a champ, and makes the marker very quiet when shooting.
If you can track one down i highly recommend getting one. They are easy to maintain, very accurate, very gas efficient, and there's nothing like the look of taking out a kid with a $800 15-22bps marker with your 15 year old pump!!!
10 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, July 14th, 2004 at 8:37 am PST
Sterling - the consummate pump-marker
Various rental pumps - generally crap.
ICD Panther w/ vertical CO2, wooden grip, and Smart Parts spiral drilled barrel
Tippmann SL-68II w/ 18" muzzlebrake barrel (of unknown origin) and 30mm dot scope
An aftermarket barrel can help these 'guns, but they are pretty accurate with the stock barrel. A dot sight of some kind IS a vast improvement over the fixed sights on the 'gun, though.
These things are INDESTRUCTABLE!! With the solid cast aluminum body housing well-machined, easily maintained "guts", this 'gun will last for years (I've played with mine in all sorts of games for about 12 years!).
The accuracy out of the box is hard to beat.
Can "auto-trigger" to get you out of a tight spot.
Kind of loud in its stock configuration and ALWAYS has the characteristic Tippmann "ping" when fired.
The fixed sights are no good beyond about 40 feet since the front blade twists so easily.
Requires a hopper adapter.
This is definitely a gun for the true sport of paintball. It's use requires some patience, stealth, and nerves if up against "spray-and-pray" players with 9000 round per second auto-'guns. BUT... there is no better feeling than nailing an opponent dead center with 1 ball as he lays down a 1/2 case trying to find you.
I lost 2 games to my own SL-II the other day while using my Panther semi-auto! :(
A new barrel if possible for airball or reducing volume.
J&J made Sl-68 2 barrels but they are hard to come by .
Palmers will make custom ones at a price.
very good valve
After market upgrades rare now.
Here is my review of the Sl-68 2:
< First impression >
The sl-682 is a very cool looking marker, and has that neat little window on the side for cleaning and seeing if balls are feeding. On picking it up you know you are not handling a toy from its solid steel construction.
< Ball Feeding >
The sl-68 comes with a stock adjustable feed neck that is offset for people who like to sight down the barrel. It is a bit to big for 10 round tubes if you play stock class, but I find if you wrap some tape around your 10 rounds they can fit snugly without having to buy or build a stock class feeder. For hopper users no problem will be encountered.
The bolt is known to chop if you short pump it and this is where the side window comes in handy, letting you put a cord squeegee directly though the barrel. It also comes in handy for seeing if a ball is being fed to know if there is a hopper jam as I said before.
< Disassembly >
The Sl-68 2 is disassembled by loosening the front screw and taking the barrel out to get access to the bolt assembly (which can be slid out with the pump arm) and valve.
The barrel can be very difficult to remove and put back in as there are no threads, if this is a problem you should consider polishing the breach to remove debris and excess paint that may be causing this problem.
< Shooting the Marker >
When I brought it to the chrono with recreational paint I got +- 8 and a 5 bps with auto-trigger.
On shooting it I found the iron sight very useful and accurate, I could get a ball on top of ball at 50 feet and hit small targets such as beer bottles and hoppers in one shot easily when using the iron sight.
< In Game>
The Sl-68 2 is Light and maneuverable with its low profile, much like a Breach shotgun which is an essential in every close quarters operation with S.W.A.T teams world wide.
This Marker isn’t awkward to carry and does not make you sacrifice stealth and speed. Though, it is a bit on the loud side compared to some markers.
In game a player attempted to bunker me, but I swung around and auto-triggered a rope of paint one on top of the other onto the top of his head. Shoot down is not a factor with this marker even at its highest (5-6 bps) rates of fire.
One problem I had with it was paint to barrel match. Being a closed bolt marker, if the paint is not a good size for the barrel when you pump it the paint will roll out or down the barrel reducing accuracy and range. Two ways to avoid this are to buy paint sized well with the markers barrel, or only pump the marker when you are ready to shoot.
< Operation >
Chops occurred mostly on auto-triggering the marker, as short pumping it was more likely when doing this, in which case the side window for cord squeegees came in useful for cleaning the marker, which did not shoot through breaks well if at all.
The marker had an anti double feed which is good for the person who may pump the marker run for five minutes and see someone and pump it again and double feed.
Double feeding was only possible with an electronic loader or pumping it, pushing the ball forward and letting another ball fall into place.
In playing is used this double feed method as a strategy to shoot two balls at once, surprisingly this worked 70% of the time to successfully propel two balls (with half the rang) but at 30 feet I got both balls to hit my friends scuba tank (one half a foot above the other) and also used it in game to double tag close quarters opposition.
Also with a co2 tank I aimed the marker at the ground and dry fired 200 times tiny to get just one drop of siphon ( and it was a non anti siphon tank) but it did little more than smoke. These markers take liquid co2 and chew it up and spit it out like its nothing.
< Durability and Build >
When Tippmann designed this gun, they built it to last, mine must be over 10 years old, more like 15. These markers could be run over by a truck, dropped out of an airplane, and thrown at a brick wall. The only thing they will need replaced in their lifetime under normal circumstances are O-rings. The only plastic thing on it is the pump handle, which is high impact all weather plastic and has not even shattered on me in the hardest winter playing conditions. And in the unlikely event it does a new one can be purchased from Tippmann (even now in 2006).
If you want to get into pump and can not afford a high end pump, the Sl-682 is your answer. If it is not a high end pump it is defiantly a high performance.
It may not be as upgradeable or accurate as my Wgp Sniper, but I would take and Sl-68 2 over it stock any day for solid performance and auto trigger ability.
The Sl-68 is indestructible and if you can’t conquer your opponents with it you can always use it as a steel club to cast them down into the land of the dead (not recommended).
Accuracy: Stock is sufficient.
Efficiency: High, play all day off of a 9 ounce.
Durability: May be the most durable marker available
Feel: Low profile and easy to hold
I give it a 9.5/10 since I paid $86 Canadian for mine, and it was worth every penny.
The only weakness is it is not very upgradeable, which is not a factor because the stock parts are all you will ever need (unless you want to push air bunkers wit ha longer barrel) if it wasn’t for this I would give it a ten, but since I can mark 9.5 I will round up to 10 anyway.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, February 28th, 2006 at 7:46 am PST
Phantom Pump. While the phantom was accurate. The slide arm moved freely making easy to double feed. I did not like the feel of the phantom either.
I use an SL-68 II set up with a 16 inch all-American barrel that I modified to fit the gun. I also have a trigger shoe installed. I also have a metal adapter to allow for modern loaders.
Small feedneck, hard to find barrels that fit. grip is small for large hands.
I have owned and used my Tippmann Sl-68 II since 1996. During that time my marker has seen very heavy use by me and others. There are many things that I like about the marker and a few things that I don't. This review will cover my experience with the marker in detail.
I prefer the SL-68 II over other Nelson based pump paintball guns for several reasons.
Locking Bolt: The bolt locks in place after the marker is cocked. This prevents double feeding and creates a stable platform to shoot from since the slide does not move. I owned a Phantom for two years and tried to play with it many times. However, I could never get used to the pump arm moving freely after the gun was cocked.
Bottom Line C02: I prefer the bottom line Co2. The bottom line Co2 keeps the tank out of your way so that you can use your sights to aim. The SL-68II has fixed sights, and they work. You really can hit what you aim for with this marker.
Quality: The gun is solid, and very dependable. I bought my SL-68 II new in 1996 and have never changed anything, not even an O-ring.
Cleaning: The marker has an access port on the side of the gun. This allows you to run a squeegie through without removing the barrel.
Autotrigger: The marker is equipped with an auto trigger. This allows you to hold down the trigger and simply pump the marker. The gun will fire each time the bolt goes to the forward position. This is extremely useful when you are in a tight situation and need additional firepower. A ref actually warned me once for overshooting an opponent while bunkering him. Just be careful not to chop a ball when using the auto trigger though.
Observations: The gun is extremely accurate with the 16 inch Smart Parts All-American barrel that I modified to fit the gun. Head shots are no problem even at extended range. I have played with, and owned many guns since I began playing in 1986. The SL-68II is my favorite, bar none. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy a good fast shooting electro just as much as the next guy. However, there is a certain satisfaction I get from playing at a disadvantage and making good accurate shots to eliminate my opponent.
I have found that my gun operates best on C02. I have tried compressed air from a preset tank. However, I was not able to get the marker to shoot more than about 220-230 feet per second. I have heard of others having the same problem. Its no big deal really, the gun is quite consistent with Co2 anyways.
Dislikes: The only thing that I guess I can really complain about is the pistol grip. I am 6ft 3inches tall and have large hands. The pistol grip is slightly too small for my hand. Its not a big deal really, and does not affect my ability to use the marker. However, I do notice it, especially as the day goes on. The only other issue is that you cannot really upgrade the marker and after market barrels are hard to find. You can find them, its just not easy. That's why I had to modify one to fit.
Playing Pump in General: Playing pump is not for everybody. You will either love it for the challenge, or hate it because you are at a disadvantage. Most people that try pump paintball fall into one of those catogories and rarely in the middle. I have experienced the usual " why would you want to play with that", and all of the quiet comments in the staging area when players think I can't hear them. However, it never comes from the guys who have played against me before. They have learned not to under estimate me or my marker. They have learned to watch for me, and have grown to respect me. There is nothing like overhearing them as they warn others not to underestimate the guy with the pump.
Conclusion: I hope that this guide has been helpful. I hope that you will try playing pump if you have never done it before. Buy a used gun off of ebay and give it a whirl. You can play with just a pump, or break it out at the end of the day when your paint is running low. You can always sell the gun if you don't like it. Don't be afraid to play at a disadvantage and get your rear handed to you a few times. It will make you a better player even when you go back to your electro.
This would be a great marker for someone looking to get into pump play. I have had mine all these years and it still works great. There is no better feeling than when you take out that semi toting player with one shot.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, May 4th, 2008 at 1:34 pm PST
Tippmann M98 Custom 32 Degrees Special Semi Automatic with standard open blowback bolt and 12" 32 Degrees Ice Cold (Medium Bore .691) Barrel.
Always upgrade the stock barrel.
Extremely rugged and dependable!
I bought the SL68 II when I was about 12 years old. Originally, I had the Brass Eagle Stingray and well it's performance wasn't very dependable at all. So I went with a Tippmann and from that day on I was never disappointed in the performance of any Tippmann product. What I liked most about the marker was the anti-double feed, the ability to squeegee the barrel without any hassle and it was the first marker I had with the bottom line setup. Since then I've had nothing but good things to say about Tippmann products.
It's a great gun manufactured by a company who knows what it takes to succeed in paintball. Tippmann has always stood behind the quality and workmanship of their products, and if for no other reason that is why I recommend this marker.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, July 13th, 2003 at 4:53 am PST
Tippman SL 68 II, PPS brass barrel 14" .868, custom hopper adapter, Indian Creek 150 round hopper, hose clamp, 12 ounce CO2 tank
Barrel-good luck finding a barrel, if you do let me know
J & J Performance Ceramic 14"
Cast iron construction
Easy to work on
Hardly any type of upgrades other than a barrel
I started out with pump so it is good to try it once in a while but tell you the truth I am back to pump cause of the fun in it. Seems like everyone these days like to shot fast with little to no experience and hope to god to hit you by shooting 30 rounds at you per second. I love this gun and how it works. Durable, sleek, cst out of iron...price...but hard to find new...
I highly recommend everyone to go back and try using pump to see how they have improved or how good they really are in the field. This gun is a great gun and I recommend it to everyone.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, February 27th, 2005 at 4:44 pm PST
68 Automag with:
32* Precision barrel
crossfire 47ci 3k nitro
lots o' other crap
gotta have skill and move a lot. other than that, maybe a decent sight to help aim and a gas thru stock
ACCURATE, indestructible, bad@$$, light, compact,
Nothing, unless you cant shoot straight
This is the sweetest gun ever ('cept my mag) and is the perfect gun for woods ball or if you want a real challange on speedball.
I use this gun when I want to try a pump for a change or are almost out of paint (I borrow it). This thing is a great gun. The setup should be used with a gas thru stock and a small 40 round hopper. It is really small and light and should be kept that way.
I definately recomend getting a decent sight and actually sighting it in like a rifle. If on a loose budget, get a nice low power scope from Cabelas or Bass pro shops-MAKE SURE THAT THE SCOPE RINGS FIT THE BASE. If on a tight budget then get a .22 scope from K-Mart.
The one major problem I forgot to include in the section is that the feed neck has to have the hopper taped on (its a weird design). I heard that you can buy an attatcment thing for it though. The other problem is that people will use this wrong. It is not made to be a paint slinger (autotrigger). Its made to be accurate, light, durable, and Bad@$$.
BUY IT IF YOU CAN STILL FIND ONE. It will improve your game a lot. Im gonna get one once I have the greenbacks.
I have my 'Cocker pump and my SL68-II Scout. ;) As for the SL,
14" J&J Ceramic barrel
Dead On reg
LAPCO (custom modded) modded A-5 .45 grip adapter
LAPCO "T" stock
ADCO E-dot electronic sight
Clamping Feedneck (also custom modded, and hammer fit, was for a Spyder)
In stock dress, the Tippmann SL68-II is really a nice marker. It is loud, but it has all of the strengths that a player could want; accurate, small, lightweight, durable, and consistant. The easiest after-market upgrade that pretty much any and all Tippmann owners should perform is polishing of the internals (use Brasso - it works wonders). Aside from that, even though the stock barrel is nothing to look at, it is good. If you really want an aftermarket barrel, J&J is the only company that makes 'em anymore, and with a smoother bore, they will be easier to clean. They are good shooting, somewhat quieter barrels that will serve the SL owner well.
Limited Upgrade Path.
I have owned the same marker for the entirety of my 8+ years of playing experience, and it is nothing but a gem to me. I've never had to replace an O-ring, or seal, or spring of any kind, and it has ALWAYS fired when I've needed it to. The SL68-II is a great compact little marker that gets the job done and done right, every single time.
To no fault of the marker or it's performance, there is a very limited upgrade path. However, there are prenty of people that have come out with their own modifications to the SL68-II (like myself) that have done well by them. Others have ruined a perfectly good marker - the choice is yours.
As stated above, coming out of the box, the SL68-II is ready to slap paintballs onto goggles at 100 feet, if not more. The mechanical simplicity of this marker is awesome, as are the solid steel internals, and solid aluminum/ Magnesium alloy reciever. Accuracy is superior, and durability is unparallelled. It is the total package, if you are looking for a pump marker. Taken care of properly (and even if they aren't - it is pretty hard to screw these up, so a used one with a little TLC can go a long way - plus, Tippmann still makes brand new parts for them), the SL68-II will last a long, long time, and provide the prospective owner with the quality that people like myself demand.
Nowadays, finding a new one is hard to do. But, even if you buy a used one, give it a shot. Make it a little restoreative project (and a pretty inexpensive one at that, these old markers have only 7 internal parts) and find out what you have been missing. They're fun, unique, and a piece of paintball history, too. Plus, it's always more satisfying to nail someone across the field with his/ her race gun setup with one well placed shot, and either have them compliment you, or whine to their buddies about how their gun wasn't working. As an owner of an SL68-II, you'll never have THAT problem, again.
IF you feel the need I guess a barrel, although my stock barrel out shoots both of my friends stock phantoms.
Durable like a tank
really cheap for the quality
hard to find upgrades(don't really need them too much though)
This is a great gun pump gun for any experience level. You wont have to worry about damaging the gun at all. The stock barrel must be some type of fluke because its more accurate than my 14" J&J ceramic on my 98c and the stock barrels on both of my friends phantoms for half the price. The gun has been discontinued now, so if you want to buy one you have to go to ebay, the trading forum or find the few new ones left in stores. This is a great gun to buy and if you have to loan it out, like all tippmanns, you don't have to worry about it, but the gun is pretty much indestructible seeing as how it appears to be cast iron. Auto-trigger is the most worthless feature in my opinion, simply due to the fact that it is a pump, because as you pump the gun to shoot fast you are throwing the barrel and your accuracy all over the place.
If you haven't played pump before I would recommend you try it, it is much more challenging and interesting. I would recommend this gun to both new and experienced pump players alike. It will last you for a long time to come and will support you well.