This hammer is the heaviest hammer you can buy: 70.8 grams. Double set screws for lug lock and cocking rod lock. Includes super light spring. Only available from the revolutionary thinkers at Free Flow!
The Free Flow Tungsten Hammer is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
Ebladed Outkast Autococker with Free Flow Internals and other parts not really relevent here.
Lower cocking pressure.
Makes marker slightly heavier (not much, though).
Destroys your Autococker's body!
Going over the strengths first, this hammer does a great job of lowering the pressure of your Autococker. It's much easier to push a heavy hammer than a strong spring, so that means lower PSI when cocking your marker. Not really sure if it'll stop you from chopping a ball, though, I've got eyes for that... You get more recoil in your 'cocker, though, because there's more moving mass, and even the slightest amount can make a difference there. Since it weighs more, it makes your marker heavier, too... by the order of 30-40 grams, though, so I wouldn't worry about that.
The main thing about this hammer, though, is that it'll chew through your body. If you use it regularly for a long time, you'll notice a fair amount of wear. Tungsten's way harder than even anodized aluminum, and the seer pushes the hammer up a little every time it recocks. What I'm getting at here is that over time you'll get a decent gouge in the top of your lower tube. My Outkast body has a huge mark on the top of the lower tube from continued use of this. I was looking around some forums and found that many people were complaining about this issue, so I took my hammer out and really checked the inside of the body, and there it was, giant mark. Rougher surfaces are more inconsistent than smoother ones, so you'll get less consistent hammer strikes, more variation in velocity, and ultimately, a less accurate marker.
I really like what this hammer does for a marker - but what it does to the body is crap. Knowing what I do now, I'd never buy this. Any good part won't destroy the body of your marker, so I'd have to say this is a terrible choice for an upgrade. I'm giving a 1 of 10 because any part that actively chews through the body of your marker is clearly the worst quality available.
Hollow point 3-way , Jam-anti chop bolt, jackal 90*swing, reloader B, on a mech autococker what else matters??
How many times have you seen a ref ask a guy with a mech. cocker if he had it on auto?
www.madcocker.com for the bolt.!!!
Its heavy! Questions about long term wear.
The old way of thinking told us that to get a cocker to stop chopping you got a heavy hammer and light springs.
Light spring on a heavy hammer makes for a rather slow reaction.
Spent $50 for a hammer spring kit.
And most of us spent $30 to $50 on a light bolt, pump arm back block and the list goes on.
New products namely the Jam Anti-chop Bolt, have now made this very simple. Take the $50 you were going to spend on a light bolt and buy the Jam Bolt (it only wieghs 44 grams!!!)
Why spend $50 to make your cocker heavier and slow the timing
The new thinking says buy a Jam Bolt!!!
To address the low pressure sales pitch I have an aka internals kit tornado valve hammer and matched aka springs and a SLIK light wieght cocking rod and a kapp low pressure chamber, aka 2-liter and run 180psi.
If you still want to buy a hammer buy the lightest ie. fastest hammer you can. Then buy a SLIK cocking rod to reduce the wieght even more.
Don't bother its now on the History channel.
Why spend money to slow your timing, increase your overall wieght, and then after you read some reviews wonder if this thing is eating your nice new body.
1 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, April 1st, 2006 at 1:55 pm PST
nelson hammer kits (before they were stock)
Kapp,Stock body cockers used as sniper2s with Auto-triggers
very light main spring
nice nylocks on hammer
smaller diameter than stock making precise timing harder
Very ruff finish
well the hammer I got is the older one at 70.2 grams as opposed to the stock weight of 44 grams, or the new Free Flow tungsten hammer weight of 60 grams (not sure what it is now)
Heavier Weight made for the use of the every light main spring. cocker owners should delight in that cause it will eliminate chopping
Efficiency 20 to 25 more shot off a 12 gram. this must be due to the fact that the main spring is so light the Valve and valve spring can close its self quicker
I don't know if this can help with HP gas but I think it would
smaller diameter made it impossible to time the firing point with an auto-trigger. might not be so bad with a cocker since its release point isn't as important
Ruff finish is not so great not confident on its wear in the gun might make it bigger in the body, increasing the bodies diameter size making timing even harder, but I have yet to see this just a thought on it
I emailed Professional Paintball in 2002 about the smaller size of the hammer and got a response saying that it wasn't under sized (I checked its tungsten hammer is 43/64", stock 11/16")
and that there's no plans to make it bigger or to reduce the ruff finish of the hammer
well so much for quality control and pursuit of excellence
if the finish was smooth and polished (reducing friction), and length and diameter was increased (improving timing) then it would be the best hammer ever
if you have a normal cocker then it will work good
if you have a sniper2 with an auto-trigger avoid it like the plague it will be impossible to precisely time it
giving it a 7 does what its supposed to but it could be so much more
2k2 green vert feed cocker, cp barrel, shocktech slider, pyscho ballistics pro drop, freeflow internals, freeflow bolt, green gel grips.
Got rid of chopping, more consistent timing
none at all.
This is an amazing product. I put it in along with the lightest spring it came with, turned down my pnuematic reg and I was pinching paint. Also the hammer kept my velocity up so I could turn the reg down more without sacrificing range. Also I believe the threads are tighter which allows for more fine lug movement.
This is an excellent product for people looking to get the most out of their cockers.
My gun is a mini-fishbone...but that's irrelevant.
The gun I used said product in is an insanely modified 2000 right-feed, of all things
VERY HEAVY, use it with a very light spring and say bye-bye to chopping
You have to know what you're doing to install/adjust it
Let me explain how this hammer does it's job: the hammer is heavy as Oprah! For a lighter hammer to hit the valve pin with the same force, it would need to use a "hard" spring. The tungsten hammer weighs enough to use the lightest spring I've ever heard of (the "light" spring from freeflow's spring kit). A lighter spring means the lpr can cock the gun using less pressure (35-50 psi on most cockers, as low as 25 psi on freeflow true-bored and arbor-honed bodied guns). The bolt goes forward with the same pressure that it goes back because when you release the trigger the pressure in the ram switches back to close the bolt...if you don't know what I'm talking about then don't bother with the upgrade...infact, sell your cocker to the nearest informed paintball player. So the point is that 35psi of cocking pressure will only chop if you are shooting quail eggs (and why would you shoot a poor birdy's eggs out of a paintball gun you sick person you).
It beats the hell out of the Shocktech "Phat" Hammer that I'm currently using. The only reason I don't have one is a huge shipping fiasco with professional paintball, which looking back on it, wasn't really anyones fault. So I give it a 9, because I don't have one yet.