Adrenalin Impulse Trigger Frame and Solenoid Housing. Fits all Cricket board Impulses without vert reg (Also fits vert reg if you have a 15 degree ASA). This is the same frame that comes included on an Adrenalin Impulse, now adapted for the standard Impulse. Available in double (blade or 2x trigger) or single trigger, magnetic or non-magnetic, blasted black, blue, green, purple, red, silver, or polished black.
The Adrenalin Products A.I. Trigger Frame is older, so while it may be available used and in a few cases new, it is not commonly available anymore.
Stock frames with Smart parts magnetic trigger
Stock frame with planet magno trigger
Stock Impulse - Vert reg
AIM Frame - 15 degree asa mount
SP LPR kit
Fast, User Friendly, Worth the price, 100% better than the AI frame
None now, the older version had flaws
I have tried every trigger upgrade, I tried a I-Frame which was nice but they are out of business.... so after looking and trying others i bought a AIM frame... not an AI frame. the older versions are not as good..... you want the new version...... Very fast.... It will make your Impulse 10 times faster Im telling ya.... if your shoping for a frame .... or trigger job..this is it.
You know an Impulse is a cheaper gun $300-$500... and the AIM frame cost 140+ ..so its not that cheap of a mod for a cheaper gun...if you follow... But if you can afford it Im telling you it makes your stock Imp rip..... youll need a halo....to keep up... The action and speed is crazy fast... and the way the trigger is set up you can switch from stick or the normal sp double , without messing with your trigger adjustments .... big +... although I like the stick better
I-frame (V2.0, V2.5 & V3.0), OTB frame (old and newer models), ND blades, Eclipse Blade, Stock, Demonic Blade ("devil's tongue"), and V2 Werm Stick w/ KK adj.
Rjr015, AI frame (blade and 2x trigger shoes), Vision, Supafl bolt, Tulip Pin, SS mid wieght ND hammer, Silk Shot Ram, HE ND Ram Housing, ND Ball Detents, ND i-cover, Headlock, Pipe, Centerflag 88ci/4.5kpsi tank, HFV, RIP valve, SP stickies, CP on/off, with an old Worr drop
Light, small and good looking. Modified: Fast
Out of the box: slow.
*AI frame=Adrenaline Impulse frame (this is the same frame that comes stock on Adrenaline Impulses).
Well, after drilling out the whole magnet in the trigger plate, I must say I love this frame. First let me say this though, if you buy this frame thinking that you're going to get a super adjustable crazy light frame, you are not going to get what you want; the AI frame, out of the box, is slow, virtually un-adjustable and relatively sloppy.
Stock, this frame isnít all that great. If you leave it stock and don't modify it, other than it making your gun smaller, lighter and better looking with the cool Adrenaline logo on the sides of the frame, itís not going to let you shoot any faster, actually if left un-modified, the AI frame will be worse trigger wise than the stock trigger and frame was. The reasons for the AI frame having a terrible trigger pull are: strong and un-adjustable magnets in the frame itself and the trigger plate and since the trigger plate is cut much smaller than it needs to be, it (in other words the trigger) will have a lot of side to side motion (although this isn't to bad because since the magnets are so strong they hold the trigger in place and don't really let it move side to side). So, the bad is that it is hard to shoot fast (and impossible to correctly walk the trigger) because of strong magnets (strong magnets=a lot of force is required to pull the trigger) and the trigger is somewhat sloppy. Another negative, although I don't have a problem with this, is that the trigger guard has been moved forward all the way which results in one not being able to use a vertical maxflo reg, which is too fat and wonít fit with the frame installed (so in other words buy a smaller reg, like a sidewinder by Akalmp, or buy a 15* asa).
By now, some of you are probably wondering why I gave this product such a high rating. Well, this frame, with a smaller hole drilled in the trigger plate in it, is much better than any after market trigger and also better than most trigger frames for the impulse. Right out of the box I love AI frames because they have short as hell trigger pulls which don't require much adjusting (in fact, there is only one screw you can adjust at all), they are small and they are also very good looking. The AI frame is one piece which means the trigger frame and solenoid tray are separated. The fact that the solenoid tray has been integrated with the trigger frame on AI frame is great because it means that it is easier to install a circuit board and clean, and it slightly reduces the overall weight and height of the impulse. Also, on AI frames, the trigger frame is moved forward about 1 or 2 inches so you can get a lot closer to the gun (making your profile smaller/making it harder to hit you)(the I-frame are moved forward like this too, but AI frame are moved even farther forward!!!). Okay, now even though the AI frames have a really heavy trigger, it is very easy to make the trigger much, much lighter. All you need is a drill and a small drill bit, a hammer, a small nail or small Philips head screw driver (it can be long, but it has to have a shaft with a very small diameter), and some nerves of steal (not really). Since the magnets holding the trigger up are so strong you need to some how make them weaker. Now wolverine told me that many people drill out some of the magnets, but I found it to work much better with the bigger of the two magnets completely removed (that means that nothing holds the trigger up except the micro switch on the impulse's circuit board which makes a super short and light pull).
Here is how you install and modify your AI frame:
You will need:
1 small Philips head screw driver or strong small steal nail
1 medium/small hammer
1 AI frame (duh)
1 Drill with a small drill bit (3/32 standard works great)
1 Tube of Blue (NOT RED) loctite
1 1/8 standard Allen wrench
1 1/16 standard Allen wrench
1 0.050 standard Allen wrench
Now here is what you have to do:
1-Remove the trigger shoe (the trigger shoes is the part you touch, it is black and has grooves for 2 fingers, it is like the trigger, and is removed by unscrewing the 4 screws on it, 2 on each side).
2-Get the trigger plate out. After you have removed the trigger shoes, you will see the trigger plate (it is a dull silver and looks kind of like a single trigger). Right above it in the frame, you will see the trigger pin that holds it in the frame. You will need to pound this out from the LEFT side out the RIGHT side (it won't go out in the other direction). Get your small Philips head screw driver/nail and put it on top of the trigger pin on the left side of the frame, then hit it with the hammer forcing the pin out the right side. Once the trigger pin is out pull the trigger plate out from the top of the frame.
3-Drill out the magnet. To do this is a bit tricky, but hey, I could do it so, so could you! You will notice a round magnet on the bottom of the trigger plate, this is what you want to drill out (in other words this is what you want to remove). At about a 45 degree angle to the magnet (on either side), trigger a hole from the top of the trigger plate (through the top to the bottom), forcing the magnet off. Since it is only super glued to the trigger plate, this shouldn't be that hard, although it does require some patience, force and steady hands though. Once youíre done, save the magnet just to have (it really isn't good to throw anything away you 'might' need later), and wipe away the metal shavings.
4-Re-install the trigger plate. To do this, put the trigger plate back in (from the top of the frame), then align it with the hole that the trigger pin fit into. Next hammer the trigger pin back in (from RIGHT to LEFT this time, if won't go from left to right).
5-Install the circuit board into the AI frame's solenoid tray, then screw the frame onto the impulse (in other words install the frame as you normally would).
6-Once the frame is installed on your impulse, turn the power on (if the light on the back blinks, your fine, if it doesn't you installed the circuit board into the frame incorrectly).
7-Leave the impulse on. Before you put the trigger shoe back on, you will notice a screw that is in the trigger plate; unscrew it, then cover its threads in blue loctite (NOT RED), then screw it back in until you get your desired trigger pull length.
8-Have a cold one; you're done, have fun with your super fast and super light trigger frame!
After modifying my AI frame, I couldn't be happier, I loooooove it on my impulse (and that is coming from a guys who used to own an OTB frame and who also owns a V3.0 I-frame and also has either played with or owned virtually every after market trigger for the impulse out there). This frame, once modified, is everything the perfect impulse frame could be and more.
Features of the A.I.M. Trigger Frame:
-- Totally adjustable magnet pull strengths (as weak or as strong as you like).
-- Or if you like a spring feel, drop in the Spring, were you can also adjusted your trigger pull as strong or as weak as you like.
-- New Side to Side adjustment screws, keeps it nice and tight or you can make it sloppy, if you so desire.
-- New battery stabilizer adjustment, keeps your battery locked in place so your not wondering what that rattling noise is all the time.
-- Your choice if triggers are: Double Finger, Double Stick or Single.
-- Micro Switch View Window, so you can actually see the micro switch to insure a proper setup.
In conclusion, this really isn't the best impulse frame because to make it the best, you have to modify it. I hear Adrenaline is going to come out with a new AI frame in a little while for the impulse that will be more adjustable (thus it will not need to be modified in the manor I described). Yet, I have the feeling I still prefer my older style AI frame than the newer more adjustable one they are coming out with just because the AI frame I have is so un-adjustable, that is, it is so perfectly set out of the box (really, the only thing that is perfectly set is the point at which the micro switch is engaged, but that is what makes a really short trigger pull possible).
This is a great frame and although I would recommend this to any avid impulse fanatic, the people I recommend this the most to are small time tinkerors who will enjoy drilling out the magnet and playing around with the trigger plate-I am actually making my own fatter aluminum trigger plate to reduce the side to side motion of the trigger. Great product gets a 9/10 because of heavy trigger pull stock.
Another reason to give this a 9/10 is Adrenalineís A+++ customer service.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, September 5th, 2004 at 11:44 am PST
Gloss Black 2k3 Imp, Evil: LPR, Valve, Hammer, Bolt, Pipe. AI Frame and Lo Rise, Vert Max-Flo, Pure nrg 68/4500. 260 input, 110 LPR, 17 Dwell. 280fps +/- 2'. Bling Bling Baby!
Nicely milled, perfect anno match. Fat trigger shoe. Easy to install.
Have to get 15* ASA if using vert Max-flo. Trigger adjustment not easily accessible
I ended up getting a gloss black frame instead of the purple I had originally wish listed. Glad I made the second choice cause the black frame got is an exact match to the factory anno of the gun. On to the review. First good thing I've got to say is the ease of install. just remove the stock noid tub and grip frame from yer gun. unscrew yer board and put it in yer new frame. Did I mention solder? No, cause you don't. just slide the 9v connector into the hole in the AI frame and screw down the board. slap the frame to your marker body with the provided screws and your rocking. Will fit your choice of grips as its a standard .45 frame. I'd recommend Dye's sticky3 (lotsa meat). Only thing I didn't like was the fact you have to remove the trigger shoe to adjust the pull length. but once its set to your liking, just loctite it in and forget it.
This frame rips. got it dialed in to less than 3/4 of a mouse click, smooth mag return and satisfying as squishing ants. Get this frame!
9 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, September 26th, 2004 at 1:34 am PST