Dragun Dragunfly- Its about the same, but less cocker compatibility
Ebladed cockers- more options with the e2 boards, unless you get a t-board for the drallion. Much Better Eye logic with the eblades as well.
Barrel Kit, New trigger, new bolt, Clamping feedneck (IF you can find one!) lighter trigger switch and a scenariodreams T-Board.
Other upgrades would be the same as any other e-cocker- faster ram, better regs, lighter internals, lighter backblock and pin, etc.
See the Review
FeedNeck, grips, and sear. See the Review
Ok, I got my drallion used, since they arent in production anymore. Mine came to me in great shape, with a gorgeous stock blue anno, and completely stock except for the barrel and the reg/drop. (which....didnt come stock on a lot of them anyway).
Right out of the box, The first thing I noticed was the Anno. The color of blue is beautiful. It's a purplish-blue color that isnt really a dust, but definitely not a gloss. It has the appearance of blue silk. I couldnt find any errors in the anno job itself, other than a couple of very minor scratches. But like I said, it was purchased used.
*--Performance--* Stock, they work really well. Really well. Mine was already timed, but I did give it a once-over just to be sure.
-Speed- Stock, mechanics-wise, she could keep up with me, I do believe. But, electronics-wise...no. She can't. The dragun board has two modes in it. Semi, and Full Auto. The semi mode has some trigger delay programmed into it, and thus, will not let me get my full speed out of the trigger. a t-board will solve this however.
-Feel- with my evo2 and 68/3k tank on it, it's got a nice feel to it. A tad bit on the heavy side, and of course....my evo2 doesnt balance right on it. The trigger is horrid. It is this huge, double curve trigger that is very heavy. BIG downer. Another big downer is that there are VERY few aftermarket triggers made for it, and eblade triggers dont work. Tho....as is the case with my dm6 trigger, many can be modified to fit. Some people think that the grips are too wide, or too big. I personally dont notice this, and I wear a medium sized adult glove. But, I dont hold the grip when I'm shooting, except for with my thumb.
It looks just like an orracle. Which, at a distance WILL fool a lot of peeps into thinking that you've got a more expensive marker. It shoots quick, not fast, due to the board, but quick enough to hold a lane, or keep somebody pinned. I'd say around 10-11 bps with the stock board.
*Quality- I would say that it has every bit of the quality that an eblade has. Well...except maybe the pins. I'll get to that later.
*---The Bad---* Ok, I'm having some bad brain farts, and the bad parts are what is sticking more in my mind that the good, so I'm just gonna fast foward to there.
* Trigger- As I mentioned, that trigger is horrid. I got rid of it as absolutely soon as possible. It's big, it's heavy, and the grooves are not positioned well at all.
*Feedneck- the feedneck is NOT removable. And it wouldnt fit my evo2, I had to put some tape around the feedneck. You've either got to use a collar that slides down over the feedneck and clamp it on, or cut the feedneck out and have the body threaded. BAD design flaw!
*Stock board- like I already mentioned...the electronics are the biggest part of this gun that holds it back from it's true potential. The semi mode, is way too slow. The eye logic, is crap. A t-board is a Must for this gun to reach it's full potential.
*Eye- stock, most of these didn't come with an eye, even tho the body is milled for one. INCORRECTLY milled. A TES or T-1 eye will NOT fit inside the milling for the eye hole. I had to buy a scenariodreams eye for it, which is round. the hole, is rectangular. Had to put some putty inside the eye cover in order for the eye to stay in place.
Hooked up a TES eye board to the drallion mainboard, and tried it out.
BAD. The eye logic in these boards is HORRIBLE. Not only could I Not get the eye to TURN OFF, It was doing paint checks at the WRONG part of the cycling period. Definitely a t-board with better eye logic to cure that! So until then, I'm stuck with a blind cocker.
*-NOT 100% COCKER COMPATIBLE !!!-* Ok, for the most part, yes....yes they are. But there ARE a few parts that aren't. First is the trigger. E-blades use an optic sensor to detect trigger pulls. Drallions use a trigger and a micro-switch. So stock, the autococker triggers will not work.
-Sear/Solenoid- Eblades use a vertical sear noid. The drallion, uses a horizontal sear noid. This means that the sear is shaped like an "L" where the autococker sear is mostly without bends. This means that an autococker sear will NOT work in the drallion. UNLESS, you convert the drallion frame over with a cocker 'noid and sear. Which is gonna take some milling and drilling, if it can be done. The other alternative, is to use a spyder type sear, and do a bit of modification to where the sear catches the hammer. Because since Dragun is no longer around, you cant get replacement parts. And nobody parts these out.
*EP Noid wire grooves* I think that dragun could have milled these a little bit deeper into the body. Twice now I have had to re-do parts of the insulation on those wires where they have come out of the grooves while putting the gripframe back to the body, and they have gotten pinched, and thus caused bad grounds.
-The feedneck- I already mentioned this
-The grips- Nobody makes after market grips for it. It however, doesnt use the m92 gripframe like the TES and T-1 does, so I am still looking into putting aftermarket grips on mine.
-TriggerFrame- Ouch. The trigger guard has spike-like protrusions milled into it. RIGHT where you fingers go on the HPR and on the grip portion of the gripframe. Without gloves, yah....those things hurt.
-The pins- In mine, the pins holding the trigger, the sear, and the trigger switch in were in there REALLY tight. And they were made of a fairly soft metal. I had to really POUND them out with a hammer and punch to get them out. I had to pound so hard that I deformed the heads and ended up having to grind them with a dremel to get them to go back in.
All around she's a really good gun. She has her imperfections. Which, with dragun out of biz, makes a few more limitations to it. But for the going rate of about 250 used, she's a great gun.
Do not hesitate to buy one if you get the chance. They are good guns, and getting rarer all the time. Just make sure that you have enough money to also get a t-board to fix dragun's dirt-poor electronics, and to be able to put an eye into it.
All around, I give it a 7. The trigger guard, the feedneck, and the poor electronics are my biggest gripes about it, and thats what are shaving points off of my rating for this marker.
7 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, August 9th, 2006 at 9:23 am PST
WGP Vertical Feed Cocker
Red Trinity Ion (currently use)
used to use a blue drallion
Accurate, saves paint
Slow, bad qualiity, unreliable
Ok this gun is plain out a bad gun for any player! I owned this gun once and i put all new parts on the gun (over 1000 dollars worth of upgrades) and it still broke consistently. I took it to a WGP mastertech in Chicago and he said get rid of it, which i did and i thank the lord everyday that i dont use it anymore. This gun is impossible to get to work for a long period of time, i reccomend not to buy this product and sell one if you have it. Also if you have a problem with this post think of this, why is dragun out of buisness, and then tyoe your smart a$$ response to defend a horrible company
half-blocked drallion, e2, mq-valve, ccm bolt kit, 44mag ram, planet qev's, freak set, magnetic ball detent. eggy with z board, and angel air 68/4500
get a e2 or a race frame if you can. if not, get a t-board, new trigger and new micro switch. though i have not yet done so, a new reg and lpr are good things to do. a delarin bolt is a must, but i would sugjest a ccm pump arm and a delarin back block. new ram and qev's. and if you can aford it, an mq-valve. but you wil need to do some milling to get it to fit. also half blocking was fun. lol
Its a cocker. It has an eye hole pre made.
Must be milled to have an mq-valve. And its not that great stock
i got this gun stock on ebay with great hopes to make it into a great gun, and that it has become. though stock it sucked even in comparason to me a5 w/ WAS board. this gun is great for a project. if you want a gun you can make into a great gun, get a cocker. but the drallion has dif valve threads than most cockers. you must mill it out to fit an mq.
it would make a great first gun. it works ok stock, but as you go along in paintball you can upgrade it.
All in all, it is a great first marker. I would highly recomend it.
The accuracy of this review is disputed. Please see discussion on the comments page.
Period of Product Use:
Less than a month
Similar Products Used:
I now use an Evil Pimp and i say its better than the Dralli.
Evil Pimp w/ big frame VLocity an evil scion and a Pimp barrel.
I recommend a Dye Excel barrel and an Eblade
It can shoot fast if you want.
They are not made any more and is hard to find parts for it.
When I first used this gun I was amazed at the speed it shot at i wanted to shoot it all day. After one game with this gun (I rented one before I bought it) I decided to buy it was so good. It is really hard to buy one of these guns since they aren't made anymore and they cost very much but they are worth the price to get all the upgrades and everything.
Overall this gun is great.
I suggest if you are going to get an autococker and a gun that shoots fast and is very reliable you should get this gun.
5 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, April 21st, 2006 at 4:17 am PST
Dragun Drallion, Odessy barrel set, stiffi bolt, cp drop, flatline reg. on aci tank, scenerio games IR breakbeam, Scenerios games t-board, 25g trigger switch, new 3 way adj. trigger, and the old school REVY!!!
new trigger and trigger switch, eye is a must.
Easy to use and its a cocker!!!
With out adjusting dwell and getting an eye it will chop like an auto chopper
This is an awsome gun for the money i would buy again in a heart beat. looks just like and orracle other than the angled reg. you get some pretty interesting looks from people who havent seen the gun. fun gun to play with. i cant get enough of it and love this gun.
Breaks easily,chops bad without eye, operates like a mech cocker
Ibought this gun for 225 with reg asa barrel kit. this gun sucked it was anabosoulute peice it was slow, demands upgrades (money pit) operates in classic mode, like a mech cocker, so you canshort stroke. it demands to much work, i've never had o work on my other cockrs i've owned for years as much as i worked on this
Gun sucks without eyes slow, its a focker, just buy wgp or ans they make better guns
Superstock -much better quality but more expensive
WGP prostock-its a mech but its much better built
03m-its also mech but its better built
2002 WGP cocker, belsales 3-way, stabalizer reg, dye hinge frame and stickies, 15* adapt, dye ultralite barrel, crossfire tank and reloader hopper
Wow, where do I start. Mod the trigger, replace the body, internals, front pneumatics, well just about everything if you can afford it, but if you can afford it you wouldn't be looking at this in the first place.
Electronic autococker for under $500
looks from a distance
accurate like all autocockers
Poor quality, machining
No tech support or warranty
Its made by Dragun
I previously gave this gun a 1 for good reason. GUNS THAT DON'T WORK GET A 1. I had one that didn't work, then another, finally the third time I got one that worked. I deleted that review and am writing a new one because a bunch of high school kids thought I was speaking blasphemy when I said anything bad about their beloved Dragun company. Time to face the music kids, Dragun is going under. There is no Dragun Tech support, the warranties are no longer valid, so if you get this gun, your on your own. When I got this NEW gun I had to go round and round trying to get a hold of the guy I bought it from, to get in touch with Dragun, to get it working.
Once I finally (3 months later and $15 shipping and handling) got a working gun I was pretty impressed. It is fast and accurate. It is as accurate as any autococker. The switch on the trigger is pretty light, much lighter than the stock switch on spider esp frames. I know you can put lighter 20g switches on it but I'm not worried about it. Mainly because there is no return other than the button or switch. No spring, no magnet. Some may say that's a good thing, I think its cheap and sloppy. The trigger is incredibly sloppy. No kidding, the trigger will move left to right farther than it will move forward and backward. I made some simple mods to help with this. It's awkward to walk because there is very little room inside the trigger guard, and the trigger is really fat. I ground it down to make it more comfortable.
Now many people compare this to e-bales and it performs similar but with a serious lack of quality. Most people just want to know how it compares to other autocockers and why its so much cheaper. Here's why:
1. The electronics. No eeprom (memory), so it doesn't remember your settings when you turn it off. Also its all set up and ready to go for an eye, but it doesn't work even if you get the eye(at least that's what I hear). So you have to buy an aftermarket board and eye.
2. The paint is not anodizing, its like a dust finish. NOT a powder coat it scratches to easy. Also mine had scratches on it when it was NEW. The fade has some blemishes, it looks good from a distance but up close you can notice.
3. Poor machining. Lots of sharp edges. The sear was very rough, so much that the gun had trouble re-cocking until I buffed it. Threading for the barrel, ball detent, velocity adjuster is also sharp. When I removed the velocity adjuster it actually sheared metal off. The ball detent itself also has sharp edges when you remove it. The ball detent is large and it will hit the bolt if the bolt hasn't been ground down.
4. Other. Its heavy because they didn't try very hard when they designed it to make it lighter. Very noticeable compared to a superstock. I already talked about the sloppy trigger. The grips are bad, and they don't have any replacements as far as I know. One of mine broke where the screw goes in and I had to super glue it.
I know I shouldn't expect the quality of a $1000 gun for a fraction of the cost; but these are just simple things that could easily be fixed with a very small increase in the cost of the gun. I also know there are several upgrades like the t-board, and it is autococker compatible so you can replace pretty much everything. But buy the time I replace everything I could have just bought a superstock or something else to begin with.
This is a good performing gun, especially for the price. I gave it a 7 only becuase of this. Unfortunately it was made by Dragun so there is no tech support or warranty. There is also a lack of quality. If you want a really nice gun and have the money spend the money on a better gun. If you don't have the money this one is pretty good but you will eventually make up the difference in price on upgrades.
7 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, September 1st, 2005 at 9:59 am PST
WGP '03 Autococker w/ Eblade- great gun!
Spyder Imagine converted to LPR
03 Autococker w/ Eblade, Freak kit, Shocktech bolt, NW drop forward, Crossfire HPA, Halo backman LCD
Spyder Imagine- stock with HPA, 12v Evolution loader
Spyder Imagine/LPR- titanium hammer, HP valve, NW drop forward, modified bolt, Evolution 2 loader, Smartpart barrels, Pure Energy HPA
Custom 98- Dead-on-Paintball drop forward, Cockit 2, Smartparts All American 2pc barrel, 12v Evolution loader
Need to shim ball detent- threads penetrate breech area, if not, chews up your bolt
Freak barrel kit
Eye (if you can find one)
NW drop forward
At least an Evolution 2 or Halo rip drive loader
Overall tolerances reveal it was made in Thailand...hmm
Looks are ok, grip is somewhat awkward - not much room behind trigger guard to squeeze 2 fingers in while wearing gloves. Fast marker but clearly needs adjusted everytime you turn the marker on (dwell set to 0.5 to 0.6). Just remember one thing...you always get what you pay for and this marker is no exception. I would rate it better than a spyder imagine on a cold day.
Cheap gun with an electronic trigger for under $250. But no service, so expect to be on your own.
most of your "comon" brand name cockers and e-cockers, ive also built a few cockers for my personal use
Silver/Gold fade drallion
installed eye board from tes
modified tes trigger
slik nylatron bolt with pin
freeflow pump arm
freeflow beaver tail
boblong torpedo reg
shocktech fgp front reg
race smc valve (almost exactly the same but allows for easier mounting of lpr)
powerlyte scepter barrel
freeflow valve/hammer set (ive also polished out the lower tube a bit to improve cycling)
Depending on what your looking for in your marker you may want to change every thing or nothing at all.
Only Upgrade i would say is a necesity is the T board, it fixes the draguns lacking electronics.
The drallion comes stock with parts that are equal in quality and function to your average wgp type cocker.
It comes with fair quality parts and requires little upgradeing to perform well
Draguns Electronics are a bit lacking for their e-cockers
Let me say that if your looking at buying this gun because you think that it will shoot just as well as a high end e-blade/race gun you will probobly be disapointed. If your looking for a gun that will shoot very well and far better then anything in its price range then youve definatly stumbled apon the right marker.
Ok let me go over my basic thoughs and impressions of the marker
Function on stock components
Basicly Dragun did an excelnt job setting up this gun mechanicaly .
In stock configuration (as i purchased it off ebay), the gun is more then capable of holding its own with any of the other lower end e-cockers out there.
Its stock components are pretty good.
I REALY liked the barrel set that came with the gun, i think its every bit as good as the cp set i used to use exclusively.
The lpr, ram, and bolt lack refinement, but get the job done admirably up to around 14bps. If one realy needs to be able to shoot faster then this the first thing your gonna want to do is change the bolt, then the ram, THEN the lpr.
The smc solenoid valve is an excelent choice, its one of the quicker avaiable (a version is used in the matrix and other e-cockers) its also pretty energy conservant. The only reason i changed to the race valve is the stock Dralli valve hit my new lpr.
There only two real function detracter i found in my Dralli. The stock Hpr its flow is to limited for a gun that can cycle as fast as this one can (though at low rates its not bad).
The second is the universal board that dragun uses in all its guns. This board dosent allow for enough adjustment of the guns cycling process. Also the Eye logic used in this board works great for your average open bolt marker, but is useless on a closed bolt gun (It only checks to see if there is an open chamber during the initial firing sequance, when a cocker is a full battery, Instead of when the bolt is retracted and a ball is being loaded into the chamber).
Function on upgraded components
This is where the Drallion REALY takes a lead over the Dragunflys. with the inclusion of the new parts in installed, im getting cycling rates that rival my Raced FreeFlow and custom e-cocker.
If your gonna install a new lpr youll need to move your solenoid valve around a bit or do what i did and get another mounting bracket, cause the stock unit gets in the way of the lpr.
Im sure some people find the Drallions smoth jellybean lines, sort of un-impresive, since it dosent have huge cuts and rents and look like its missing 2/3s of the gun LOL.
But me (and a number of other people i know) find the guns simple but elegant body milling a nice change from the curant fad of cut to pieces guns.
The anodising I have on my Dralli is pretty well executed, theres some flaws but not bad and i think the choice of colors is very nice, it has just enough chrome to set it off, withough making it look gaudy.
hehe heres the real shocker (and probobly gonna convince alot of people im nutz) i LIKE the clear grip plates, meh go figgure.
The only bad for this is i dont like the way the all black barrel looked on my gun, if i had a solid color it would probobly be ok.
The Drallis feal and balance are excelent (its a bit on the heavy side but i dont mind it). With a revi/richo and a 45/4500 installed its balance point is just forward of trigger, and right in the middle of your hands, right where you want it.
I have rather large hands so the draguns slightly larger then average grips fit me just fine, I think they maybe a bit large for some people of smaller stature.
I honestly have had any yet, ive been playing with my FreeFlow lately. Ill update this when i get a chance to use the Drallion in a game situation.
Drallis are basic e-cockers so just about any cocker tech can and will work on them. they are also very easy to work on onesself.
Draguns service line/department has disapeared in recent months though they arnt out of business so well have to wait and see what happens there.
well thats about it, ill probobly supliment this when i get a bit more experiance with the gun, i wanted to write a review on it now to keep from letting myself forget what the gun was like before i added all the bits and pieces i have planed.
This Marker is hands down an EXCELENT value for the money, Your not gonna get a marker thats better unelss you plunk down another 300 atleast.
If your not realy up on e-cockers this guns simplicity will be appreciated more then i have, and it will make you much happier then if you have to mess with all the hassels and things that blades and races offer.
overall the gun has some flaws but they are so minor that one cant realy complain at all about them.
I think for the price this gun deserves a 10 argue if you like.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, February 25th, 2005 at 10:49 am PST
Great gun for the price as long as you plan on adding some minor upgrades that you should do regardless of the stock gun then this baby will work perfectly. Mine came with eyes but you have to buy a new board for them to work the cap ROF on the stock board is 20 and you can set the dwell it has a timer and shot counter the drop forward is not bad but wiggles some the stock bolt was horrible and the pin that holds it on is ridiculously heavey so the cycle rates drop. stock with a jam bolt(delrin) mine cycles 17 times a second with no problems without paint though and thats being modest im sure it can go higher havent gotten chance to unleash its fury with paint probably around 15 though stock. the cocking rod was hard to adjust because they loc-tited the knob. the pump arm on my gun might be bent alil so my backblock does sit flush but it still works fine. the stock reg is not bad and easy to use. the trigger is sloppy but for this price wat can you expect. pneumatics arent bad either, although ill probably change the ram.
I recommend this gun to anyone looking for a lower priced alternative that easily keeps up with 1k+ electro guns. mine was 225 on ebay with a 3 pc barrel kit.