There is no doubt that Planet Eclipses EclipseBlade frame for the Autococker has been the biggest selling, most successful electronic conversion for the mighty Autococker that has ever been produced. Since its first launch almost 2 years ago it has been the definitive upgrade for the cocker and has seen WGP, the manufacture of the Original Autococker, exclusively endorse and use the EclipseBlade on all of its Electro Cockers.
Now, much anticipated, and long awaited, we have the E2. The second coming of the EclipseBlade frame sees almost every aspect of the old frame re-worked, refined and improved.
Considerable work has been carried out on the battery efficiency of the frame. The new sear release design not only uses less power, by incorporating a new solenoid coil and anti-stall action, but also operates the sear mechanism under even the heaviest loads (hardest main spring settings) down to much lower battery voltages. That means tens of thousands of shots more per 9volt battery. Standby power has also been dramatically reduced with revised circuitry; demonstrating only 0.1volt drop over 150 days on standby. Add to that the improved efficiency of the LCD display over the old LED display and it all adds up to vastly improved battery life.
Up front, the new cocking solenoid is now completely encased for better protection. The gasket is fully captured to prevent any blowout of the seal, and the hi-flow stainless barbs are now press-fitted into the new ìMinifoldî for an indestructible construction. Solenoid leaks, and solenoid shot damage are a thing of the past, as well as the flow optimised manifold and barbs further increasing cyclic performance.
Add new custom wrap-around grips, larger trigger guard, larger trigger magnet, improved trigger pivot point and trigger design, through-beam and reflective eye compatible (Reflective supplied as standard), improved menus, ROF indicator, and the E2 package is almost complete.
The Planet Eclipse EclipseBlade E2 is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
A tad more difficult to install rather than e1
This thing is pimpin!
Just received my own today. a few months ago i used one on a nexus'd 03 vert feed with most stock parts except for the reg and nexus kit. it was at least going 18 or 19 bps. it is extremely light weight, and comes with a great user manual. the solenoid can cycle at 90 cps so it is by far the most capable frame. the tt filtering is extremely good, and i couldnt bounce the 03v no matter what back block i put on there, or bolt, or cocking pressure..it never bounced. the settings are very similiar to the e1's. the only difference is that in some of the settings you can change it by a 10th of a millisecond instead of just by the millisecond. the trigger can be set as light as you want it to be, and it still wont have any bouncing issues. raking isnt possible anymore though, because the frame perceives it as bounce. another plus is the fully enclosed solenoid, which deffinately helps against those nasty pnue hits.
Great product. highly recommend buying this frame or the zero b board from eclipse for the e1. i got mine for 430 from autocockerhq.
Race Frame - harder to tweak at the field, solenoid vulnerable.
Most Mechanical Frames - slower and can shortstroke, can chop (no eyes).
2004 Karnivor with E2 and stock Karnivor pneumatics (incl. STO ram, QEV's and delrin bolt).
Upgrades necessary to use on lower-end 'cockers.
I received this E2 already installed on a 2004 Karnivor, and have had no problems whatsoever with it.
I will break up the review into the following categories:
I. Packaging and Documentation
I can't comment on packaging as I had mine pre-installed. The documentation, however, is the best I've seen for any paintball product. Eclipse provides a thick, well-written manual that covers installation, setup, use and maintenance with clear instructions and glossy color pictures. It is clear that a lot of money was spent on the development and publication of this manual, which is the gold standard for the rest of the paintball industry to follow.
I can't comment on installation as I had mine pre-installed. However, having reviewed the installation documentation, it would only require about an hour of my time to install. Those unfamiliar with 'cockers would take another hour or two to install. Professionals could get it done in under and hour.
III. Fit and Finish
The E2 is several steps ahead of the E1 and the Race in this category.
- The cocking solenoid on the front block is entirely encased in a metal manifold, so damage is less likely from a hit
- Tthere is no pin to fall out of the grip as in the Raceframe (HUGE PITA)
- The trigger guard is large enough for three fingers to easily walk the trigger
- The LCD display is clear and bright, and
- The frame can take both reflective or break-beam eyes, as you prefer.
The anno, plating and design are all top-notch; no mill marks, thin anno or other problems. The grips are solid, tacky rubber; the logo and aesthetic design of the grips is a little toned down from the E1. There is little to no play in the trigger, and all parts fit and work as they are supposed to.
My E2 was setup when it was installed, so I did not have to go through the process. Again, the manual provides very clear instructions, and the factory settings appear to work just dandy. The "Training" (air only to the pneus for cocking) mode is a great idea and lets you get used to your marker without too much noise or air consumption. The "Classic" (back block stays back if you hold in the trigger) is useful for tweaking your LPR pressure.
The menus are easy to navigate and read; the LCD display is clear and bright. Eye controls, counters and timers are easily accessed. Setup controls are accessed after you take off the grips and push a button on the board; this is to prevent cheating, I suppose. Setup menus are also easy to navigate and use.
The E2 sports the Samurai trigger with three set screws for pre- and post-travel adjustment as well as actuation adjustment. The trigger set screws allow for a VERY short travel when properly set up. The trigger has no discernable slop or play. The magnetic return is not as snappy as a hard trigger spring, but gives plenty of tactile feedback, and returns quickly enough for the 17bps that I've achieved; I'm sure it returns quickly enough for much higher ROF. The large trigger guard allows for three fingers to walk the trigger in comfort.
The ROF is just plain silly, and is attributable to the design of the frame and trigger more so than the electronics. Anybody can produce a marker that is capable of reaching 26bps in the hands of pros, but it's much harder to produce a marker that allows people with average trigger fingers to achieve high ROF. Planet has produced exactly that; a grip that makes it easy for my slow fingers to reach 17bps. My Viking is supposedly faster than a 'cocker with an E2, but I can easily outshoot my Viking with my E2 Karni. The three-finger walk is easy to accomplish on this marker.
Accuracy is hard to gauge for a grip by itself; the critical factors are kick of the marker, how unstable your hand is when pulling the trigger and the paint/barrel match. I can say that my Karnivor has only a little kick with the E2 on it, and the E2 requires little hand motion to fire quickly and contributes to a stable shooting platform. Accuracy won't change on your marker at low ROF, but at high ROF you may notice an improvement.
Wtih the TT filter on, I have no bounce whatsoever. None. Nada. Zip. Zilch. ZERO BOUNCE. I tried very hard to make it bounce, and couldn't. I'm sure with the TT filters on low or off altogether that you can make the E2 bounce, but you'd have to take off the grips to change the TT settings (i.e. hard to do if you're intent on cheating on the field). This is a huge improvement from the E1. 'Nuff said.
I have the standard reflective eye installed, and did not chop, even at 17bps, with darker-shelled Blaze, medium-shelled junk paint or lighter-shelled Polar Ice. Eye sensitivity is easy to set, and a gauge is available on the LCD screen to show you where it needs to be set depending on ambient light, paint color and bolt color. There were no problems experienced using a Halo B or an Apache. Break-beam eyes are available for those who must have them, but I'm not sure they're necessary.
XI. Battery Life
Based on the battery life so far, I am on schedule to use up one Duracell standard 9v in about 20,000 rounds. A HUGE improvement over the E1.
The size, weight, grips and overall feel of the E2 is, to me, perfect. Much better than the Race; however, this is a subjective matter, and everyone will need to try both for themselves.
I haven't needed any support, but Eclipse appears to provide great support. There are certainly enough Eblades out there that the forums are full of people with helpful advice. Raceframes are less common than EBlades, and there are limited Race dealers in the US. Eclipse is everywhere! Eclipse seems to have the edge over Racegun here.
The E2 is about $450 new no matter where you go, costing as much as some solid mid-range markers. Used, you can get 'em for $375 or so as of mid-2005.
But the cost doesn't end there; you can't just buy it and slap it on a stock 'cocker; it requires some very high-end parts to work well. You need a high-flow valve and LPR, an extremely smooth ram, and a delrin bolt and light back block to get the best performance from this grip. These upgrades come stock on high-end 'cockers (Karnivor, Eclipse, Belsales, etc.), but will cost a pretty penny (up to $300 if bought individually) to put on a lower-end 'cocker.
And yet, it is SO very worth it.
Edited 05-11-05 to update price used and clarify some statements.
I don't like giving 10's, but I have to here. There are no weaknesses to the E2 at all. Fast, easy to use, no bounce, no chops, no shortstroking, easy to install and maintain. It's everything I want in a marker; I am selling my Excalibur and using the E2 Karnivor for both field and tournament play.
The only limit I see is price; $450 new/$375 used is steep for many people. However, buy an E2, Docs' Fastback body w/internals and bolt ($325), a Nexus or Belsales ram w/QEV's, a high-flow valve (Tornado!) and an LPR (Rock!), and you have a 'cocker that will compete with the best $1500 markers out there for $900.
If you are upgrading your current marker, you will need a very good ram, QEV's, a delrin bolt and preferably a light back block and titanium arm, as well as a high-flow valve and LPR, to get the most out of this grip.
Best upgrade for a 'cocker, and worth every penny. Period.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, May 11th, 2005 at 7:08 pm PST
Pirahna GTI E-Force red/black fade
12 inch J J Performance ceramic barrel
Viewloader Revolution w/ X-board and Circle Hopper Cover
Pirahna Flush Cocking system w/ EVO Bolt
20oz CO2 Pure Energy Tank
2004 WGP Black Autococker Orracle
Karnivor Kaner 2 piece barrel
Nexus Kit Ram
All Delrin Bolt
Empire Reloader Sound Activated Loader System
Check it Drop w/ on/off
4500 psi 68ci Pure Energy Tank
Dye Rhino Tank Cover
None...maybe price...got a insane deal on mine =)
I have this on my orracle and couldn't be happier. I had it professionally installed by one of the best shops in Cali and I love it. It shoots as fast as you can, comes with an eye, and has a better trigger (Samurai) then the original. The different modes are great and if you want to mess around in the house you can put it on training mode and practice with the trigger...I got mine already to 16 bps....I have heard on 20+ but I haven't got their yet....I haven't messed with the settings and I am just going to leave it how it is because I love the way it is now. I did however upgrade the ram to allow it to shot smoother and faster, and I recommend you do the same the results are impressive and noticeable. Have fun and be safe!
Go out and get it! Best Upgrade for the cocker yet! Save your pennies and buy one. You know what they say if you can't beat them join them =)!!!
Trigger Is Kinda Stiff, Not The Fastest Frame In The World
My Friend just got this for his cocker and brought it over to my house yesterday, i helped him set the trigger pull and take it off of factory slow this was easy. Timing was also easy since i didn't actually have to do anything, the trigger itself is perfect for how i like them but it's a little too stiff and there isn't enough room in the trigger gaurd for me to walk it as fast as i like.
I hit 12 on it so it's not the fastest i could get (I got 17 on a ECX with WAS)
Maybe the trigger is too stiff or it's not sensitive enough
The electronic interface and menu is kinda confusing maybe if i was to spend more time with it it would work better.
Over all it does seem to improve on he original e-blade but i personally would get a timmy or NME over a bladed cocker.
However the customization of cockers has always impressed me and continues to impress me to this day.
Great frame, has it's flaws, Not worth $400.00 IMO
8 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, January 20th, 2005 at 9:00 am PST
this frame is a dream... i have played w/ it 2 or 3 times now and it is just awsome you can adjust the trigger to your settings including: length of pull, when the gun is shot along your trigger pull, and the snappiness or resistance of the trigger.... there are many other timing options you can adjust as well. I suggest this frame to anyone with a cocker... shoot as fast as a timmy with the accuracy and consistency of a cocker... sounds good to me.
Bit expensive but you get your moneys worth if ur lookin to get an eframe then get the e2 it is by far the best
If you have an E-1 get this. If you have a race-frame get this. If you have a hinge frame get this. This is sooooo cool. I was hesitant to buy this because i already had an E-1. So I sold my E-1 on ebay and bought this so only a $150 upgrade. This is sooooo fast. I can easily hit 16bps then i hooked up a computer to it and shot 29 bps oh my god. insane. The cool this is the customizable blue lcd screen so you can see the info.
Well a soon as I got home from the proshop i couldn't figure out why it was shooting like 1 ball per second but then I realized to turn the eye off. which took me forever to figure out. Otherwise I went through a hopper as fast as I could pull the trigger. shooting 16 balls per second feels pretty good letting rip. Also the menu system is kind of complex but just read the manual and you should be O.K.
If you have a cocker and are serious about paying 500$ and want to rip like never before GO FOR IT!
Gun Details & Upgrades: WGP 03 Autococker, E-Blade² II, Sameria Trigger², All Delron bolt (D.A.R.T.), Jack Hammer II, QEV's, Generation-X II Reg+Eclipse HP Mini Gauge . E-blade² electronic 3-Way², Eclipse Nexus Fully-Strippable Ram, CP Flame dropfoward (2in), CP on/off valve, FREAK Barrel system- 2 piece 8 bores 12' inch teardrop front end or 7' inch Smartparts front end Green and black or 5in" FREAK front end (Black) with Stainless steel Freak Back, nasty beaver tail, +Evil,empire,eclipse stickz .
cool new menus
great on batts
If your a chump i suppose the price it the only weakness if any
First of all this thing is fast as hell it will make any cocker into a monster, e and worr blades don't compare to the e2, the batts last very long on this frame iv left it on for the 1 night by mistake and expected the bat to be empty it was still @ 90%! the trigger is fully adjustable and easy to customize and the training mode is really fun to play around with it shoots the gun and moves the cocking rod back to but it won't use half the air for a normal shot making it better on air and quiter which is great for those of u that like to dry fire. another cool thing about this trigger fram was the rate of fire indicater. the electric eye on the right side of the gun works really well i'v used the e2 cocker for 3 mouths and i haven't had a brake in it yet
Worth every penny best cocker upgrade on the market
Sucks on a stock gun, but not the frame's fault.
Well, I got my frame from the local pro-shop (Bastion Paintball). Brandon the owner had gone down the the cup and picked the frame up for me. The second I got it home I aired it up and started to rip. DAMN the thing was fast...a little too fast...I walked down to my buddies house and told him to come test it with me. So we popped the sucker into training mode and started ripping it. He noticed it was going too fast too. It was only maxing out at 9 bps (factory slow settings and on a pretty much bone stock 2k4.) but it didn't feel like we we're pulling the trigger that much. Thats when we got the idea to test it for bounce...holy crap. I got the thing doing full auto 9...without my finger on the trigger. Needless to say I was horribly dissapointed. I'd read all these reviews about 'NO BOUNCE AT ALL!' and 'THE TT IS AWESOME!' but as far as I'd seen, it was just another cheap a$$ bouncy electro. Well, that was until I read the manual ;). After doing some reading and taking the gun to my shop class the next day, I adjusted the TT filters and took the gun back home.
No bounce :)
NOW, for the first field test. This occured at the compound in Duncan. Took the baby out there with the TT's and everything adjusted, gun ready to rip. Then, for the hell of it, I decided to set the gun up for factory fast and 50% tolerance, just to see what it would do. BAD IDEA FOR A STOCK 2k4. Two words, SHOOT DOWN. Two shots would make it out of the barrel on an 11bps string and then next 9 or so would get halfway down the barrel and then BREAK! But when I wasn't shooting over 5-6 bps the stock reg held up fine. So basically the only problem this frame has, is that it's too good for my current set up :P.
I've now had about 2000 dollars more invested in my gun, and it rips harder and faster than any gun I've ever seen. The only thing that can keep up is my friend's DM4, and thats only when he's ramping. Once I get an mQ valve in my gun, nothing will match it.
All in all, this thing is the best. Eyes for detection and no chops, electronic timing for reliability, elmination of shortstroking and speed, and great features make this a great, well rounded frame perfect in all aspects. I just can't wait to see what my gun will do with about 500-700 more invested in it :D
10 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, August 6th, 2005 at 8:27 am PST
e1 eBlade, various other electronic markers (timmies, angels, bushy, etc.)
Turtle Cocker Body (sometimes referred to as halfback or halfblock)
Turtle pump rod, Turtle delrin back block and Turtle delrin bolt
AKA Tornado valve
Better trigger/trigger pull
Break-beam eye setup is not yet available
If you haven't seen a Turtle or halfblock autococker, do a quick search on google. With the MP4 ram and very light cocking components, I was able to get the e1 to cycle at a rate that would allow for 28cps. I was very surprised when the e2 opened things up and allowed an incredible 40cps. With air, and the marker firing as normal (in other words, I wasn't in training mode, the marker would have actually fired a paintball out the barrel), it will fire, recock and close the bolt in less than 25ms total.
Unfortunately, I doubt the e2 will allow everyone's autococker to see that kind of improvement, you should see solid incremental gains in cycle times with the e2. There are also lots of other refinements, but I'll just highlight the stuff that no one else has covered:
-The new LCD can display a lot more information all at once. Now you always see your battery level and whether the eye is on/off. You can then select to see the game timer, shot counter, or current and max rates of fire. You can set a default display so if you want to see the shot counter when you first power up instead of the game timer, it will. However, unlike the e1, the e2's display seems to have a bit of a delay, kind of like a slow computer updating the screen. It's nothing major, but it's nocticable.
-Some of the timings now have finer adjustments. The SON time is now adjustable in 0.1ms increments. See the manual on PlanetEclsipse's website for more details.
-The trigger can be set to an even shorter pull, so short that you can't even feel it being pulled. You can set the pull even shorter than you could with the e1. When you set it this short though, even the TT filters really won't help.
-TT filters: In both the e1 and the e2, the trigger uses an eye beam sensor inside the frame to sense when the trigger is pulled. The TT filters allow you to set sensitivity settings similar to setting your breach sensor. It's a nice feature, but with all of the hype, I guess I was expecting something more.
-The new grips are more of a panel design with rubber over the plastic panels. They still wrap around the front of the frame. The plastic panelling makes it feel a bit more solid. Also, the rubber no longer has those tiny little fins that paint and goo get stuck in so easily, yet are so hard to clean out.
-I can't really comment on the battery life as I just installed my e2 tonight, but I have no reason to doubt that the e2 will last longer.
If you have an e1 already, unless you have a marker that's truly top of the line, your money is probably better spent on cheaper parts such as lighter cocking pieces and a good ram and QEVs. You'll get the same speed gains with those cheaper parts for a lot less money.
Even though it's a bit pricey, I'm giving it a 10 because I'm sure the price will come down over the coming months.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, December 9th, 2004 at 9:31 pm PST