Tippmann is reintroducing a paintball legend with a few modern updates, including a redesigned integrated feed neck that fits most current standard hoppers, as well as a redesigned ergonomic grip for enhanced comfort and control. Most of the other great features that helped establish the original as a true paintball legend still remain.
• 11” Performance Aluminum Barrel For Accuracy
• Smooth Short Stroke Design For Speed
• Redesigned Integrated Feed Neck Fits Most Standard Hoppers
• Auto Receiver For Faster Firing – Hold trigger and pump repeatedly for continuous firing
• Solid Cast Aluminum Receiver and Non Corrosive Internals for Durability
• Redesigned Ergonomic Grip For Comfort And Control
• Integrated Tank Adapter with Built-in Gas Line
• Front and Rear Sling Mounts
The Tippmann SL-68 II is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
I have my 'Cocker pump and my SL68-II Scout. ;) As for the SL,
14" J&J Ceramic barrel
Dead On reg
LAPCO (custom modded) modded A-5 .45 grip adapter
LAPCO "T" stock
ADCO E-dot electronic sight
Clamping Feedneck (also custom modded, and hammer fit, was for a Spyder)
In stock dress, the Tippmann SL68-II is really a nice marker. It is loud, but it has all of the strengths that a player could want; accurate, small, lightweight, durable, and consistant. The easiest after-market upgrade that pretty much any and all Tippmann owners should perform is polishing of the internals (use Brasso - it works wonders). Aside from that, even though the stock barrel is nothing to look at, it is good. If you really want an aftermarket barrel, J&J is the only company that makes 'em anymore, and with a smoother bore, they will be easier to clean. They are good shooting, somewhat quieter barrels that will serve the SL owner well.
Limited Upgrade Path.
I have owned the same marker for the entirety of my 8+ years of playing experience, and it is nothing but a gem to me. I've never had to replace an O-ring, or seal, or spring of any kind, and it has ALWAYS fired when I've needed it to. The SL68-II is a great compact little marker that gets the job done and done right, every single time.
To no fault of the marker or it's performance, there is a very limited upgrade path. However, there are prenty of people that have come out with their own modifications to the SL68-II (like myself) that have done well by them. Others have ruined a perfectly good marker - the choice is yours.
As stated above, coming out of the box, the SL68-II is ready to slap paintballs onto goggles at 100 feet, if not more. The mechanical simplicity of this marker is awesome, as are the solid steel internals, and solid aluminum/ Magnesium alloy reciever. Accuracy is superior, and durability is unparallelled. It is the total package, if you are looking for a pump marker. Taken care of properly (and even if they aren't - it is pretty hard to screw these up, so a used one with a little TLC can go a long way - plus, Tippmann still makes brand new parts for them), the SL68-II will last a long, long time, and provide the prospective owner with the quality that people like myself demand.
Nowadays, finding a new one is hard to do. But, even if you buy a used one, give it a shot. Make it a little restoreative project (and a pretty inexpensive one at that, these old markers have only 7 internal parts) and find out what you have been missing. They're fun, unique, and a piece of paintball history, too. Plus, it's always more satisfying to nail someone across the field with his/ her race gun setup with one well placed shot, and either have them compliment you, or whine to their buddies about how their gun wasn't working. As an owner of an SL68-II, you'll never have THAT problem, again.
There is no older pump that reaches up to this one.
CCI Phantom-back bottle- red dot sight. Detent rings, trigger shoe. Stock 14 inch barrel.
A barrel would be nice but it's very hard to come by nowadays for this gun.
Very accurate, light, and the clink clunk when you rack a paintball in.
None other than hard to find aftermarket things for this gun.
This pump is very reliable. I started playing pump with this gun and i loved it. I like playing pump so much i bought myself a cci phantom. This gun is solid like a rock. Ive seen people with this gun and drop it on solid concrete and it would still be working perfectly. If you want to want to check out pump play, check this gun out.
Buy this gun if you come across it and you will not be dissipointed.
So this was my first pump and I'm super pleased with it. When I bought it online, I expected it to be huge and heavy (tippmann sterotype, sorry woodsballers!) but when I pulled it out of the box I was shocked! This thing was tiny....I mean TINY! And the pump stroke was so smooth! So in no time I gassed her up and took her outside. Since it didn't come with a manual, it took me a while to find the velocity adjuster (on the side of the bolt in the little window). I then chronoed(spelled wrong) it and shot off a few rounds. Man this thing shoots great, and its quiet! I haven't gotten to play a game with her yet due to financial problems but I can't wait to get her out there
Just starting in pump? Can't a fford a phantom? Then the SL-68 II is perfect for you! BUT THIS GUN!!!!
A new barrel if possible for airball or reducing volume.
J&J made Sl-68 2 barrels but they are hard to come by .
Palmers will make custom ones at a price.
very good valve
After market upgrades rare now.
Here is my review of the Sl-68 2:
< First impression >
The sl-682 is a very cool looking marker, and has that neat little window on the side for cleaning and seeing if balls are feeding. On picking it up you know you are not handling a toy from its solid steel construction.
< Ball Feeding >
The sl-68 comes with a stock adjustable feed neck that is offset for people who like to sight down the barrel. It is a bit to big for 10 round tubes if you play stock class, but I find if you wrap some tape around your 10 rounds they can fit snugly without having to buy or build a stock class feeder. For hopper users no problem will be encountered.
The bolt is known to chop if you short pump it and this is where the side window comes in handy, letting you put a cord squeegee directly though the barrel. It also comes in handy for seeing if a ball is being fed to know if there is a hopper jam as I said before.
< Disassembly >
The Sl-68 2 is disassembled by loosening the front screw and taking the barrel out to get access to the bolt assembly (which can be slid out with the pump arm) and valve.
The barrel can be very difficult to remove and put back in as there are no threads, if this is a problem you should consider polishing the breach to remove debris and excess paint that may be causing this problem.
< Shooting the Marker >
When I brought it to the chrono with recreational paint I got +- 8 and a 5 bps with auto-trigger.
On shooting it I found the iron sight very useful and accurate, I could get a ball on top of ball at 50 feet and hit small targets such as beer bottles and hoppers in one shot easily when using the iron sight.
< In Game>
The Sl-68 2 is Light and maneuverable with its low profile, much like a Breach shotgun which is an essential in every close quarters operation with S.W.A.T teams world wide.
This Marker isn’t awkward to carry and does not make you sacrifice stealth and speed. Though, it is a bit on the loud side compared to some markers.
In game a player attempted to bunker me, but I swung around and auto-triggered a rope of paint one on top of the other onto the top of his head. Shoot down is not a factor with this marker even at its highest (5-6 bps) rates of fire.
One problem I had with it was paint to barrel match. Being a closed bolt marker, if the paint is not a good size for the barrel when you pump it the paint will roll out or down the barrel reducing accuracy and range. Two ways to avoid this are to buy paint sized well with the markers barrel, or only pump the marker when you are ready to shoot.
< Operation >
Chops occurred mostly on auto-triggering the marker, as short pumping it was more likely when doing this, in which case the side window for cord squeegees came in useful for cleaning the marker, which did not shoot through breaks well if at all.
The marker had an anti double feed which is good for the person who may pump the marker run for five minutes and see someone and pump it again and double feed.
Double feeding was only possible with an electronic loader or pumping it, pushing the ball forward and letting another ball fall into place.
In playing is used this double feed method as a strategy to shoot two balls at once, surprisingly this worked 70% of the time to successfully propel two balls (with half the rang) but at 30 feet I got both balls to hit my friends scuba tank (one half a foot above the other) and also used it in game to double tag close quarters opposition.
Also with a co2 tank I aimed the marker at the ground and dry fired 200 times tiny to get just one drop of siphon ( and it was a non anti siphon tank) but it did little more than smoke. These markers take liquid co2 and chew it up and spit it out like its nothing.
< Durability and Build >
When Tippmann designed this gun, they built it to last, mine must be over 10 years old, more like 15. These markers could be run over by a truck, dropped out of an airplane, and thrown at a brick wall. The only thing they will need replaced in their lifetime under normal circumstances are O-rings. The only plastic thing on it is the pump handle, which is high impact all weather plastic and has not even shattered on me in the hardest winter playing conditions. And in the unlikely event it does a new one can be purchased from Tippmann (even now in 2006).
If you want to get into pump and can not afford a high end pump, the Sl-682 is your answer. If it is not a high end pump it is defiantly a high performance.
It may not be as upgradeable or accurate as my Wgp Sniper, but I would take and Sl-68 2 over it stock any day for solid performance and auto trigger ability.
The Sl-68 is indestructible and if you can’t conquer your opponents with it you can always use it as a steel club to cast them down into the land of the dead (not recommended).
Accuracy: Stock is sufficient.
Efficiency: High, play all day off of a 9 ounce.
Durability: May be the most durable marker available
Feel: Low profile and easy to hold
I give it a 9.5/10 since I paid $86 Canadian for mine, and it was worth every penny.
The only weakness is it is not very upgradeable, which is not a factor because the stock parts are all you will ever need (unless you want to push air bunkers wit ha longer barrel) if it wasn’t for this I would give it a ten, but since I can mark 9.5 I will round up to 10 anyway.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, February 28th, 2006 at 7:46 am PST
2004 black imp
ndz stubby bolt
all- a 14 in.
strange ram and hammer assembly
red halo b
68/3000 nitro duck
This is a great old school gun. I really like it. It is a older marker and it's fun to tool around with. If you play speedball this is a good gun to get back to basics with as I have. Really fun marker that is way more durable than anything I have seen.
Though there aren't too many similar pumps, I've owned or used the following:
Splatmaster (even trying to compare this to anything would be an insult to both parties, but here goes: slow, inaccurate, and for the time vastly overpriced. But still, it was one of the first when there were no other options)
Tracer (cheaply constructed, but adequate)
PGP (inaccurate and overpriced, but solid)
Hammer (inexpensive, light)
King Cobra 14" (heavy, awkward, velocity adjustment is a joke, but sniper-like accuracy)
The SL-68 II is superior to all the above in many ways. The SL (at the time of release) was more expensive than the above.
Sold off all my semiautos (Automag, Prolites, Patriots, etc.) Primary marker was a $1200 Mag with SS barrel, remote, nitro, VL300 agit., ACI Sub-zero chamber, etc. etc.
Now I just play with a stock SL-68 II with 12 grams and either a 40 round TASO "ammo box" or just with 10 round tubes.
I can't highly recommend any upgrades I have encountered as “needed.” The SL-68 II is ready to go as-is. A red dot or electronic sight might be a good addition, but for that matter it might benefit any paintgun. An aftermarket barrel might make the paintgun quieter if that is a chief concern, but isn't needed for accuracy.
I've used this marker for over 13 years straight. I have tried other SL-68s with upgrades to barrels, hoppers, sighting systems and air systems, and I have never found the need for an upgrade of any kind. See more in review below.
Easy to clean
Velocity externally adjustable
Feed neck doesn’t accept modern hoppers.
Receiver can have burrs.
SL-68s uncommon nowadays.
The SL-68 II is easily the best pump paintgun I have ever owned, played with, or had to face in a game. My SL-68 II is 13 years old and has never disappointed.
It has a one-piece cast metal receiver with a bottomline air setup and built-in feed elbow. No multi-part 45 grips with auto-response triggers and hooptybobs to have come loose, no feed elbow to swivel loose. The bottomline passes through the grip of the frame and up into the valve. The grip protects the air system entire and I’ve never encountered a leak of any sort in any SL I’ve encountered in 13 years. The barrel is not threaded but is held in by a friction grip and allen screw. You never have to worry about cross-threaded barrels or dinged threads not working. It makes barrel change simple and fast. There are a minimum of moving parts internally so there are less things to break. Also, everything inside is rustproof. The receiver is a single cast magnesium alloy, which is strong and amazingly lightweight. In another review on this site it mentions that the receiver is made of “cast iron” which is ridiculous. Also that it “rusts”, which defies the laws of physics and everything I learned in chemistry. The receiver will never rust; it is chemically and physically impossible.
Few parts in the marker, few things to worry about, maintain or replace. That translates into a savings of time, money and worry. You also don’t need to be an airsmith to address any problems, of which I have never encountered. Not one. All internal parts for the SL-68 II are still available through Tippmann.
If you need to strip the gun in the field, that means there’s something wrong with the user, not the device. I can’t conceive of anything that could happen which would require such a procedure mid-game. It just isn’t possible. Between games for cleaning or whatnot it is dead simple to strip. Unscrew one single hex screw to remove the barrel pump, arm and bolt. Unscrew the rear cap by hand or with the hex key and remove the hammer and spring (and valve if truly needed). That’s it. If you wanted to remove the hammer assembly you could do so easily at this point, but aside from a broken spring (which again I have never encountered in 13 years) there’s no reason to do so. Rinse with water, let dry, add oil, reassemble, play. Simple. So long as you properly clean and oil the marker (as you must do with any machine) you won’t ever have any problems.
EASY TO CLEAN
There’s a reason why every major paintball field used to use SL-68s, durability, simplicity of maintenance and ease of cleaning. Apart from being sure not to spray water into the bottomline tank receiver, you can just spray the marker down with a garden hose and let dry in the sun. The best bet is to leave the CO2 attached, unload the paint completely, fire off any gas currently in the valve and then spray with water. The only thing that ever gets dirty is the barrel and chamber, and then mainly because of buying junky paint. A problem with any marker regardless of type or price.
During the game, if a ball breaks, there is a convenient port on the side of the receiver so you can feed a cable squeegee through. An amazingly simple thing which is something lacking on paintguns costing 10 times as much. Mind-boggling, really. Pull the broken paint OUT of the marker, rather than using a straightline squeegee to first shove all the paint into the bolt area, and then trying to pull it out. It’s amazing that all paintguns aren’t built this way. I read reviews on this site which say their one complaint is that it’s impossible to squeegee the marker in-game, and that it’s too hard to remove the barrel to squeegee in-game, to which I can only assume that they don’t actually own an SL in the first place, are blind or something worse. The cleaning port is the most blatantly obvious feature of the marker, and is one of its chief selling points.
Bad paint breaks, that’s just how it goes. So like any marker you need to test to see what paint feeds best. My group tends to play rain or shine, and as rain gets into the barrel and the humidity increases the balls tend to break more. The cleaning port is a Godsend, and the cleaning cable conveniently stores in a storage space in the pump foregrip.
EXTERNAL VELOCITY ADJUSTMENTS
A hex screw on the side of the bolt which is easily seen on the cleaning port. Every quarter turn equates to approximately 15 fps or so.
The barrel is short, but the range is correspondingly great. Longer barrels might be accurate, but their range is shorter. The effective range in woods is 30-40 yards. If you could actually get a straight-line view you could easily get 60+ yards of accurate fire. In the open you can rain shots easily. My stock SL-68 II can get 8 of 10 shots onto a paper plate-sized target at 75 feet. Better paint will yield better results, and it is easy to get consistent shots to 100 feet and beyond. If you look down a stock barrel they are not mirror-shined. They are stock, basic aluminum. They work and work well. They seem to be in the middle range for paint (.689?) and will throw most brands equally. I’ve found that Marbellizer and “pro” level paints work great.
I have tried a 14" All-American barrel on a teammate’s SL-68 II and it made the marker very much quieter, but not appreciably any more (or less) accurate than the stock 10" barrel, mainly because effective range is limited in a game. For example, you might be able to shoot accurately to 300 feet, but will never get a 300-foot view to anyone in the woods. For that reason alone – noise – one might consider that barrel, but that would be the only consideration. Smart Parts no longer produces the barrel, so any that you'll find (if at all) will be used or a lucky stash found in a warehouse somewhere.
J&J currently produces a 14" ceramic barrel, which is the only currently manufactured aftermarket barrel available. I have not tested them, so I couldn't recommend or discourage the purchase of one, though they are ported so it stands to reason that they will make the marker quieter. I will try to update this review once I have had a chance to test one.
I have two Tippman aftermarket 14” barrels which I recently acquired and will test. They are ported and braked in the last 4”, and it stands to reason that they will make the marker quieter, but testing will reveal all (I hope). The barrels were found on eBay, which is probably your best bet for used SJ-68 IIs and barrels.
A simple red dot sight (like those for BB guns) may be of benefit since the front blade sight is mounted to the pump forearm and therefore moves. Any amount of time spent target shooting with the SL-68 II will compensate easily.
The marker is super light, even with paint and air. It’s so light that a big tank, like a 20 oz, will make it a bit back-heavy. I’ve found that a 12 gram setup, or a small 7 or 9 oz tank is perfect for balance. You can run around all day and weight or fatigue will never be a concern.
The grip angle yields a natural “point” and it’s easy to bring to bear on a target. The stroke of the pump is short and quick, and like the pistol grip, fits the hand well. Everything is within easy reach. It is easy to chrono the marker and adjust the velocity at the same time. The feed elbow is off to the side. The sight rail is grooved to accept any dovetail accessory, but doubles as iron sights effectively.
For many reasons the SL-68 II is inexpensive. The paintgun is durable so parts and maintenance are cheap: oil and the occasional o-ring are it (I have never had to replace a single part on my SL-68 II at all, ever. I bought two more SL-68s as loaners for friends and neither have needed any repairs, and both were purchased used.) Since the marker is a pump, you shoot less paint and therefore save money. Pump play also trains accuracy, which also saves paint and money. SL-68s are available used on eBay or from paintball fields, and can be purchased for very little, usually less than $40, but are still excellent markers.
On the downside, and I find them to not be terrible bad, are that some SLs have little casting marks and burrs on the receiver on the dovetail mount. On those SLs where this happens, it makes adding a scope mount a problem. This can be easily corrected with a nail file, but still, it’s worth mentioning. It has never affected the functioning of any SL that I have used or seen used.
The feed elbow is made for older hoppers (like the 40 round TASO “ammo boxes” or the Zap/Brass Eagle ones from a few years back) so you will need to get an adaptor to make them fit. Another option is to make your own adaptor from PVC plumbing fittings. I find that for stalking and pump-style play, the need for a 300 round loader just doesn’t exist. 40-60 rounds is more than adequate, though I do have a three 150 round hoppers and adaptors for big games.
With SL-68s less common nowadays you will have little choices in the aftermarket arena. Luckily there aren’t really any needs for aftermarket parts.
Between myself and my teammates we have five SL-68s, and not a single one of them has ever broken, sprung a leak or let us down. Three of the five SLs are over 13 years old, and have fired tens, if not hundreds, of thousands of paintballs.
I highly recommend the SL-68 II! It is every bit the workhorse you’d expect from Tippmann, and Tippmann still sells parts for it. It’s worth every penny new or used, and if you can still find one for sale new, snap it up as quick as you can. Definitely a 10 and a must-have!
BKO, Egg2, 47 3000 center flag
Sl-68 aftermarket barrel (not sure wat it is it was given to me)
barrels but there arent many that u can find
Accuracy, looks, price, weight,
The barrles held on by friggin screw, louder than average, the pump handel is weak
This is a great marker, very accurate and easy to use. i havent seen anywhere u can get a barrel for it. in the other reviews most people said "need hopper adaper" but i didnt need one with a pmi 150 round gravity hopper. i am giving this a 8 because there are better pumps out ther but it is still a great marker
This gun is good for those woodsball snipers and is a overall great gun
J&J 14" Ceramic barrel, you could also get a sling and a sight for this gun but its not as important as the barrel
Low profile look
Great out-of-the-box accuracy
Only a few upgrades
May need to get a hopper adapter
Sights aren't great
First I'll start off with the exterior design of the gun. The pump handle is very well designed and provides excellent support when aiming. The Body of the gun is one solid piece, which makes this gun very sturdy. The grip conforms to your hand nicely, with the bottomline integrated right into the handle.
The performance of this gun is awesome. The barrel is very accurate, but the J&J Ceramic barrel is alot better. It will be quieter and I love the self-cleaning feature that J&J Ceramics have. The The trigger pull is fine and the ability know as the "auto trigger" is great to get yourself out of tight spots. This allows you to hold the trigger and keep pumping out shots. I noticed that there is more ball breakage when you shoot like this, so the J&J would help out here too. Like all pumps the CO2 efficiency is great as well as the low number of balls used.
The aren't that many upgrades but the barrel is key. Countypaintball has all the parts and the barrel ,but the sling you'll have to fine else where. You can still buy this gun new at various places for somewhere around $100. I bought mine used and it is still great.
This is an awesome gun if you want to get back to your days when you first started playing. Most of us started with pumps and worked are way up, but now it is time to get this great pump gun even if you own a high end marker. Get the J&J for this gun and you won't be displeased. This gun gives you high satisfaction in the arena when you take out the kid with the angel or the other assorted $1000 gun. Anyone who is looking to buy a gun and doesn't want to spend the $180 for a phantom get this gun because is is very sweet.
SL 68 II w/ a 12 oz. and 7 oz. tank and a 4X rifle scope, stock everything.
Accurate, reliable, strong, and fun!
You need practice to keep up w/ competition of semi autos and up.
The SL 68 II is a great pump action marker from Tippmann. After feeling the weight on a 98 compared to this this gun is alot lighter, with and without paint. The internals are simple, which i truthfully haven't ever seen them all since i've never had to replace any o-rings in it or fix a seal. It utilizes a system of clamping for both the hopper and barrel, hopper wise this is a bad idea because of how soft that aluminum is up there-barrel wise it works very well and if you're handy enough you could cut in threads for another type or barrel if you wanted to. Closed bolt accuracy, pumps smoothly, very efficient on gas and paint (you'll save a bunch of $-trust me). You do need a hopper adapter for it, although i fashioned one out of a pipe adapter. It is very accurate and mixed with evils and a red dot it amazing at snap-shooting from 75 feet against full auto guns, and can be used for some long baling if you can adjust for windage and elevation. The only downside is, other than the weak hopper clamp which broke one me, is it's shooting rate. Although it has auto-pump (hold down the trigger and pump, and ever time the pump makes a cycle it shoots-a great advancement back in the day) you can probably max out a 3bps, and those not being very accurate balls either (though i'm sure with practice it'll be better). Lastly it seems to give other players big head when they play against you, until you blow them off with it's accuracy.
No upgrades needed, accurate, threatening (loudness wise-no porting), reliable, a true tippmann gun. I've used this thing for idk how many years and never had a problem-other than newbies chopping paint with it from not cocking it right and half-squeezing the trigger and it's bolt unlocking like it's ready to be cocked again.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, May 28th, 2008 at 4:57 pm PST
Tippmann Model 98
BTB Rear Velocity Adjuster
Drop Forward (custom)
BSB Red Dot Scope
16 inch CMI "Thunderpig" Barrel
PUMP MARKERS RULE
I bought this gun in order to go back to the old ways of playing and boy was I pleased. It did exactly as I wanted it to. Very accurate and very hard to win when you are against a person with a semi auto. I personally was tired of wasting paint so I bought this baby to crutch my paint useage and boy did this work. Instead of spending $60-$100 a month I went to $40-$60 a month. Great buy!
Over all this is an excellent gun. Efficent and lightweight the SL-68 is the perfect pump to go with overall. A lot of people will disagree with me but when you're looking for a gun that supports the old ways of playing this is it. Although it's hard to come by (and if you do you should defintaly buy it!) and although it has a slow rate of fire it's the perfect backup for when you're in trouble. I'm giving it an 8 becuase of the hopper adapter but that is easily repairable.