The mQ-Valve was re-released and re-designed due to overwhelming demand and is now the mQ2. The MTX Designs mQ2 is a solenoid opperated valve that slides into the bottom tube of most Autocockers. It replaces the hammer, pin valve, sear, and sear solenoid in your existing E-cocker. With no hammer to re-cock, your cocker will run faster and smoother than ever.
The re-design makes instalation easier, reduces the operation pressure compared to the mQ-1, and has more robust seals and higher quality materials for long life and lower maintenance.
The MQ-Valve (generation 2) is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
Karnivor, many 05 Super Stocks, various electro 'Cockers, DM4,5,6.
Half Blocked 02 VF, MQ-2, E1, Tickler, STO w/ QEV's, 45/45 Maxflo, Halo B.
Fast, little kick, makes half blocks amazing.
Can stick at times, consistency takes a while to even out/break in.
Well, I was the 20th buyer of the MQ-2 valve, I've had it about 2 months.
Right now I'm running the MQ-2 on a half blocked 02 with an E1. When you first get it a lot of people are saying it's not a bad idea to put a little bit of polish on the inside to avoid stick. Whenever I air it up it will usually not fire the first 3 shots or so, but then it works fine.
Compared to a Karni, my setup shoots way smoother.
Now, where as I was running my stock valve around 220 psi.(with the reg sweetspotted), the MQ requires about 280 psi to get the correct velocity. When your tank gets low, around 400 psi or so you'll start to see some shoot down and weird crap; the operating pressure is around 250 or so for it to even cycle. So you can't really run it down to nothing like a typical poppet valve, as it will stop cycling first.
Consistency isn't that great at this time, but I've been using cheap paint and oversized bores to accommodate any paint inconsistencies, and my reg could probably use a take down and lube. At this point it can jump around +- 20 FPS, or +-3, it can be very temperamental.
I just watched an MQ1 used valve for for $125 or so last night, and the MQ-2 has a couple of good improvements to the design, so I wonder sometimes what I could get for mine. Unfortunately I can't really imagine myself going back to a standard valve/hammer combo; I've been spoiled.
Overall I'd say it's a good upgrade, I had a bit of a problem avoiding shoot down at first (I was using a Super Stock stock bolt before I finished my 02 half block, so it wasn't cycling all that fast... I turned up my COFF and it went away, now with a good delrin bolt it's down from 50+ to 30ish Milliseconds.
If you know what you're doing, and especially with the ramping that E2's/Zero B's have, you'll definitely see a big improvement over a poppet valve.
When Mike and Kerry find some time on their hands I'm looking forward to seeing some more of these valves in 'Cockers. Keep an eye out and pick one up for your nice e-bladed 'Cocker. I wouldn't recommend them for typical SF frames though.
GX5-E with samauri trig
Belsales ram and LPR
air o bolt and derlin back block
everything is controlled by board
consistency and LOW PRESSURE
This valve took me a total of 15 Mins to install completly. I gassed it up and it worked, few things your supposed to check on it, would recommend letting it sit for a while so seals set right. Fine tuning is super simple just go through each timing setting and figure out whats best for your marker. I can put a paper towel on top of my breach and when i shoot the gun sucks the towel into my gun which means it doesnt blow back. Valve eleminates drop off completly, seems that at high rates of fire balls seems to be super consistent as far as velocity and drop off.
If you have the money and know how to do it yourself buy it fo sho. Makes your gun shoot much smoother and more consistent. Get a super light bolt and back block for ROFs over 20 BPS setup.
Stock 2002 cocker valve
Osiris (only that that really compares)
e2 eBlade with Powerex 9.6V battery
Martin Mini-Block Cocker Body (sometimes referred to as halfback or halfblock)
Shortened pump rod and appropriate delrin bolt and custom back block
Twisted products LPC / front block screw
CP Shorty HPR
45/45 Crossfire tank
Full Scepter Barrel kit with all 7 available inserts
Lighter than stock
A bit expensive
Not readily available
To get one right now, you have to head to pbnation and PM Ronin23. There's supposed to be a waiting list, but, depending on when you ask him, you may get yours right away. Mine was in my hand in 1 week.
Installation was a breeze. The instructions are plenty detailed. If you've replaced a valve in a cocker before, you won't have any trouble. I had mine installed in less than an hour easily. While installation is pretty simple, there are plenty of things you can do wrong that can destroy the MQ valve, so read your instructions at least twice before you install it. There's plenty of time to read the instructions while you wait for the new valve to arrive anyway, so you have no excuse.
Chronographing was also very easy. With nothing but the SON time and your HPR to set, it's pretty easy to dial it in precisely. Though they recommend 4ms dwell and 280-300psi, I was able to run about 250psi and a 2.7ms dwell and get 286fps. Perhaps the higher voltage from the Powerex batteries helped lower the dwell time. A fully charged Powerex is putting out something around 10.4V. Usually mini-cocker bodies require even more pressure, but mine is working great with a low dwell and low pressure.
The MQ valve is very light compared to your stock components. My gun actually is nose heavy now because of all of the weight taken out of the tail end. Also, since the MQ valve's parts don't move around as much, there is less "kick" to the marker when shooting.
I can't really speak much for consistency as I didn't have good paint to chronograph with. I did get pretty good efficiency. With 2100psi in a 45/45, I shot about 500 rounds at 286fps. However, once the tank reached 1000psi left, I had to refill. The balls were barely leaving the barrel and fell to the ground in 20 feet. I used to be able to get decent fps at low rates of fire down to 500 or 600psi. Still, overall efficiency should be around 1500 shots for a full 4500psi in my 45cu in tank, much better than before.
Speed: My gun was incredibly fast before this upgrade, so I can't honestly rate the MQ valve's speed. Current settings without paint are:
ROF = 50cps
It's hard to be 100% sure if the bolt is opening all of the way, but I put my finger behind the bolt at the point where it should be all the way open. When I fire the gun, I can feel the bolt touch my finger. Since there's no way to get paint fed into the gun or pull the trigger 50 times per second, it is somewhat theoretical. Suffice it to say I should have no trouble with 15bps ramping.
Since they say the 4.8V Racegun frames need a longer dwell due to its lower voltage, that leads me to believe that your velocity may drop a little as your battery drains. Chances are you won't see much of a change in velocity until your battery is really low, but it's worth noting.
It's a great product. It's one that actually works as advertised and is pretty simple to install. If you need lighter and faster, this is a good upgrade worth considering.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, February 27th, 2006 at 5:35 am PST
- Easy to install
- Great customer service
- Light weight
I bought my MQ on an auction site because I couldn't wait to get a hold of one of these valves. The installation was little to none. Drop in and change some settings and it was ready to rip. Tested the marker with paint at the house. I was very impressed. It was shooting ropes with out missing a beat. My next test was at the field. The marker was again shooting ropes with very little drop-off. My E2 does not have the ramping flash in it and people were complaining about the speed. Once I showed them the marker didn't have ramping, they were also impressed. One of the guys took it out and fell in love with it.
Again, if you can get over the hump of the price, it's worth your investment. You get to keep your cocker's accuracy and gain the speed of the fast markers with very little to no bounce. I would say this is a perfect upgrade for anyone looking to step up their game and their marker.
Nothing compares to a solenoid poppet valve (that is mQ).
I've tried numerous other valve/hammer combinations before.
Totally custom built cocker (but with all 'off the self' parts).
I've got enough cocker parts to build 3 complete markers, I've tried everything.
I am a Mechanical Engineer and I love to tinker on them.
Basically no reciprocating weight in the valve chamber.
Seems like low gass efficieny (but just refill your tank). Consistency is TBD.
I dropped it in and it worked.
I've dreamed of this for years.
Now cocker geeks can finally get rid of that obnoxious hammer seer/tripping system.
Now I'm just waiting for Mike Quinn and Kerry Johnson to make a drop in air bolt to get rid of that obnoxious off-axis ram / pump rod / backblock / too-long-bolt system.
Even with your traditional bolt / ram / backblock (provided you've selected lite parts) you'll find your new mQ'd cocker to notch up in performance more than you could ever imagine in a cocker.
If you like cocker feel and know how to work on them (or don't mind paying someone else). GET an mQ VALVE. THIS THING IS ABOUT AS GOOD AS THE CHANGE FROM MECHANICAL GRIP FRAME TO ELECTRO GRIP FRAME. IT IS GOING FROM A MECHANICAL VALVE TO AN ELECTRO VAVLE! As with all cockers, either don't touch it
or know what your doing before you change settings or do custom upgrade.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, January 15th, 2006 at 7:39 pm PST
It's quiet, reduces recip mass, eliminates kick, and reduces bounce.
Really didn't make my gun faster(see review)
You can't buy the MQ from the site yet. You have to go the the cocker forums on PBnation and pm Ronin. He will get you on the pre-order list. I waited 6 months before I got my valve.
You have to have a valve tool to get your old valve out. Once you take out all of you stock internals, you just slide it right in.
My valve was a newer one. I could not get it to shoot below 350fps when I got it. I had to take out a little white spacer in the noid. That only got it down to 300fps. Then I played with my inline pressure and my SON value and I got it to just under 300.
After I installed it, my guns shot ropes with ease. It was very quiet, almost no kick, no bounce. After playing with my timing I got the following settings-
Son-4 (this is your dwell)
Cdel-5 (this controls blow back)
Con-35 (this is your load time)
Cto-50 (load time with eye on)
Coff-30 (close time/ controls drop off)
Inline pressure ~ 300psi
LPR 2 turns past minimum
I had massive blow back even when I raised my Son to 30, but I think it may be my bolt.
The lowest Con time I could get was 30 consistently with my Reloader on setting 3 so I added 5.
The lowest Coff time I could get with out drop off was 30.
If you add Cdel+Conn+Coff then divide 1000 by the sum you get your max bps.
Before I got the MQ I could use the following settings(very conservative)with no problem
Make sure the MQ is compatible with your cocker before you buy it. Some non WGP bodes do not work. Mini body cockers have a hard time getting to higher velocities, but with the newer version I think they solved the problem.
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CUT YOU WIRES WHEN INSTALLING THE VALVE, they are very thin and will shear off when you turn your IVG.
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE COCKING ROD, IT WILL CRUSH THE SOLENOID.
One of the best upgrades for a cocker.
Buy it if you love your cocker.
The people at PBX are very nice and have excellent customer service.
8 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, January 3rd, 2006 at 9:59 pm PST
AKALMP Tornado valve - as efficient if not a little more
Various stock valves - not as efficient
Mini Turtle cocker w/E1 ZeroB, new-style Kaner kit, 70/45 Crossfire
CCM S5, Eclipse Blade, Palmer's Quikswitch
RDL Sniper, WWA pump kit
Pre-Dye Carter Buzzard
Bushmaster SI 14"
Divorcement of firing system and loading system.
See below for more.
Tolerances & compatibility.
See below for more.
Complete divorcement of firing system and loading system in a cocker - replaces all lower-tube hardware except the IVG, which becomes a retainer.
Allows lower LPR settings and/or faster cycling, reduces mechanical recoil to a minimum.
Very quick firing response - near zero "lock time."
Relatively high efficiency.
Lighter than the parts it replaces.
Very easy installation - assuming valve fits properly (see below); for a cocker tinkerer with average skills, installation is a snap.
Support - both community and manufacturer support is plentiful and patient.
Price - costs more than any cocker valve ever has.
Availability - as of Jan 2006, there is still a fairly long wait time to receive one (although nowhere near the original wait).
Tolerances - on the gun side. Some cocker bodies are out of spec with the mQ parts, requiring modifications to the body or the valve.
Compatibility - markers without standard screw-in IVG setups require special considerations and somtimes modifications.
Installation - although installation is easy, there are a few points at which the user can make errors that may cause the valve to not work. It's easy, but not foolproof.
Tuning - because cockers can be built of so many different combinations of parts and can be worked on by techs with such varying degrees of skill, tuning can sometimes be an issue. The valve requres timing changes to work properly, so problems sometimes arise.
I pre-ordered my mQ valve in April 2005 and received it in November 2005. Wait times should be much lower now that it is "officially" released, but be prepared to wait.
I had an issue upon installation -- the seat area of my marker's lower tube, which affects the depth the valve can be inserted, did not conform to the spec the valve body was designed for. I was able to solve that problem without incurring additional expense or downtime. That saga is chronicled here: www.halfcocker.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopi c&t=119 (I don't know why pbreview refuses to parse that URL correctly, just put the two pieces of it together)
Suffice to say that this is not exactly a "one size fits all" product due to production tolerances between various cocker bodies. Still, one way or another, it can most likely work with any body out there.
The mQ valve fundamentally alters the operation of the marker by completely divorcing the loading and firing systems. This change allows the absolute best operational performance from a cocker.
If you have a very well-built and finely tuned mechanical-valved cocker, you may not see THAT huge of a difference in performance. Still, the change is marked, and at that end of the spectrum, improvements this significant are hard to come by. For most others, the mQ can afford night-and-day improvement.
I have not paid extremely close attention, but I don't notice much of a difference in efficiency between this and the Tornado valve I had immediately before it -- in the neighborhood of 1500 rounds per 70ci. It is slightly quieter and requires slightly more input pressure.
The ultimate valve for cockers, hands down. You might have to wait to get one, you will have to pay a pretty penny, you may face a installation issues, and you will have to re-tune the marker. But once it's working there is nothing better. 9.5, rounded to 10.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, January 3rd, 2006 at 10:07 pm PST