The New Speed Strip Halo shell kit is a must have for any Halo hopper owner. It is compatible with all Halo A, Halo B, Reloader B, Reloader B2, or Halo w/ Rip Drive Hoppers. This latest technology allows you to easily clean the inside of your hopper without complete disassembly.
Another great feature is the one piece feed neck. This gives the feed neck better support and will keep it in good condition for a long time. The shell kit is very easy to install and will save you hours of time cleaning and tons of money in new shell kits.
Ultra Durable Design & Material
New Battery Door
New Clear Lid & Spring
Easy Access Cleaning
One Piece Feed Neck
The Warrior Paintball Speed Strip Halo Shell Kit is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
Other standard shells, suicide, maybe a couple others, but only really played a lot with the standard shells.
Custom ION - Virtue, TechT iFit, etc... TONS of upgrades, barely an ion anymore.
'09 Spyder Pilot - Low Pressure Mod, CP reg, J&J S2... sweet little spyder.
PB Superbolt - Backup/anything but speedball marker. FANTASTIC with a few mods.
Cheap, makes the job easy, looks for me
Slightly more brittle than normal
This thing is a piece of crap I think in a LOT of ways. But, I also think it's awesome.
Crap starts as soon as I get this thing out of the box, when I take all the screws out to change shells (with a mistakenly bought $10 glittery-clear shell) and everything seems to fall apart (every nut fell out as I took it apart). After 20 minutes or so, I get the other one apart and start to get all the parts into this one... and all hell breaks loose doing my best to both keep the board, backplate, and raceway (with everything in it of course) together while trying to navigate this other half of the shell in. It doesn't make sense because putting the bottom half of this thing together didn't. Simply put I guess, half an hour from taking my Halo B shell apart, to taking the new one apart (2 minutes, 3 screws up top and the rest in the same place on the lower half), to getting the lower half (and all the internals) installed... The entire time I'm noticing how stiff this shell is, sign of how brittle it would seem...
After an undesirable assembly, I noticed the backplate held in better than the clear standard shell I had (so kudos of course, but no help in the finals) and it would make changing the drive cone and cleaning a blitz.... however with the two side nuts (haha) falling out every time I take the top off (another cool point might I add, no more removing your speedfeed or feedgate!!!!!) it can be annoying.
Now, after two paragraphs on assembly and disassembly, which isn't THAT bad, we get to playing, where it actually does count. Seeing as how we all usually spend HOURS toying, tuning, playing, shooting, playing with, describing, reviewing, wondering, googling, teflon-taping, cleaning.... you get the point, with our markers, hoppers, and other equipment, this is less than routine.
Anywho though, it stood up to multiple hopper hits, from quite a few angles, which is no biggie because we do live in an age of polymer and plastic techno-developers, but it did well with the leaking paint thing I worried about, and had no cracks or breaks anywhere.. The design of this thing has it cut nearly parallel to the ground for the top half to be removed, so it would seem as if it would leak paint that hits it into the hopper itself when you get hit. However, due to some smart guys who created the design, it has a cut-out along the entire edge (lips where bottom and top meet), and holds pretty tight, so this is prevented for the most part.
I hit a few branches with it, handled my marker roughly as normal (I'm military, so if I use it in ANYTHING it will stand up or be replaced as immediate as the situation will allow), and noticed nothing different in terms of durability (yet, but still I worry), but then again it's only been a few weeks. Either way, thus far it's stood up to fairly harsh conditions. Plus for that... Minus for how this FEELS as if it will bust everywhere, very often.
The very front screw hole in the top shell looks like it could break easy as a toothpick in John Henry's hands. It hasn't yet, but I think that's worth noting.
But, because we all crave perfection, I have to grade it harshly. And, to all you Dye guys who pay WAY too much for a 20-50bps marker (which you can't out-shoot on semi anyway, liar idiot) this thing proves pretty clearly how something cheap CAN be as good or better than the expensive crap. In this instance though, the CAN in that statement is pretty removed.
In the end, 6 is good. It's good, but could be worked on. Mostly with stronger (or just slightly more flexible....) plastics. It's strong for sure, but I think too much of a sudden impact or any significant force will shatter this thing.
It's faster for sure (but how often do you really take all your crap apart and clean it... I do every time thanks to my rifle used in ACTUAL combat), easier once it's together and working, but isn't the perfect design, period.
It holds more paint though, I wanna say around 190 or so, but I could be wrong. It is more though.
It's crap, but the thought is awesome. I'd go with something else. I got this because it was sent as a "Halo B shell - color: smoke," not the warrior paintball shell or whatever this is. Good, yes, but not great.
6 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, May 8th, 2011 at 2:09 am PST
After 4 years of use and abuse, I needed to change the stock shells. I checked with my local dealer (Imports stuff from PunisherPB) and they had the Warrior Shells available so I bought them and I installed them.
Today I decided to clean the hopper (It only had 4 scenario games played) and I found mayor cracks near the bolts, the upper part was attached to the other by one bolt only.
The plastic didn't resist the regular paintball use, I don't know what would happen if I do a superman with it.
J&J Edge Kit
Virtue UL board
Villain Stage 3 Reloader B2
Top splitting shell half
alignment almost always off
I've been using a Halo or Reloader b, for almost 3 years now, and I know how to take care of my loader. I used Hybrid shells since I liked their design and work good. I came across these Warrior shells in a trade for a used Halo and Reloader B. Well the ones on the Reloader B looked brand new and they held up for about a month. the ones on the other loader came to me cracked I understand what happened and bought them like that.
the design is good the same as the Hybrid ones though....and Hybrid's are much better quality.
Support - they want you to pay the shipping to them and from them to see if you even get the warranty replacement of the shells, not cool for that cost you can get a set of Powerlyte or Kee shells for that cost.
Brake Easy - the front screw slot cracked on both of my shells with little force.
Alignment almost always off - it's easy to push the shells out of alignment causing the screws to pop out and allowing the top to spin and crack. Major weakness.
Don't buy them, get a Powerlyte or Kee shell instead, their Customer support is horrible.
Red and Black 06 Ego
Tadao M7 Board
Works flawlessly until it cracks
Easy to break
General Assembly, really
So, I live in Pittsburgh, and a nice, local place to shop is Punisher's paintball. Great products, deals, etc. One cold Sunday, maybe 8 months ago, I took a bit of a trek down to the store with my brother. I was there to buy replacement eyes for my Halo, since mine had supposedly burned out. Of course, while I was down there, I made the mistake of looking around the store. Most devout paintballers will agree with me that, once you start looking in a store, you better take our credit cards away. So after buying a few upgrades for a couple of markers and buying my replacement eyes, this Warrior shell caught my attention. It seemed like a great idea (modeled after, as most of you know, the Hybrid shells), and was cheap, so I figured I'd pick it up.
When I got home of course I started tinkering with my markers. After having fufilled all my tinkering needs, I moved along to the halo. After taking off the stock shell, I replaced the eyes and then inserted the tray into my new Warrior shell. Hey, so far so good.
Oh nuts. Literally. The nuts on this shell are not stationary. You'd think the company could go to the trouble of using some glue or some other substitute to get these things in place, but they didn't. After having several nuts fall out, I realized they weren't so fun to put back in either; usually getting stuck at an angle in the nuthole, and being an absolute pain to get out. But let's forget about those for a second. After positioning all the nuts and getting all of the screws in (roughly 20 minutes time, which would be absolutely treacherous if you were at a tournament and had to replace eyes or a motor), fitting the halo together, and giving it a once-over, I was pretty satisfied. The shell looked fine, it had a nice hue to the smoke color, and the top popped off just fine when you took the screws out.
First test: I took a pod of paint and fed it through my halo. Put the V35 board on mode 6, and it worked beautifully. Paint was through in the blink of an eye, no breaks, perfect. Satisfied, I set the hopper aside for my next day of play.
First day of play: Great. Took the halo out instead of the usual preference for my VLocity. The shell took a hit or two with no damage, and when play concluded I took the hopper out of my feedneck to inspect for damage. I've also been a fan of the halo feedneck, and it didn't let me down with this shell. No cracks. I cleaned the Halo off and went on my way.
Now, as I said, I typically use a VLocity. The Halo is a bit too heavy for my preference, so I passed it on to my brother, who uses an SP-8 (the tactical marker by SP...he's a scenario player). The marker has a slanted feedneck, so to use the Halo he had to buy an elbow (clamp). No big deal, right?
Well, I put my halo up on the nation to sell. After one man expressed much interest in buying the hopper, I went to grab it off of my brother's marker.
Ouch. The entire top of the feedneck was cracked. I'm talking a perfect circle, all the way around. One superman dive with this thing and you can kiss it goodbye. Inspecting the body, it seemed that didn't fare so well either, with cracks throughout the entire thing. It looked like only a few more hits would be needed to utterly destroy the entire hopper (or at least the shell). The SP8 is a huge marker, and I knew my brother had never dived or given the shell any real abuse. The crack around the feedneck was purely from the elbow clamping down on it, and the cracks on the body were from paintball hits. No shell, I repeat NO SHELL should be this fragile, allowing cracks to form so easily.
With some remorse, I had to inform the interested buyer on the nation that I observed several cracks on the halo and that I could not sell him the hopper, at least not in its current condition. He thanked me for my honesty and went on his way, but I still felt a pane of guilt, having talked to him for two days before actually grabbing the hopper. I had taken pictures of it 3 months earlier and just assumed it would still be in the same condition. Man, was I ever wrong.
Warrior Paintball should know that many people using halos kind of like to give their hoppers a bit of abuse. This shell will not hold up for that abuse. As I said, my brother used it only for scenario play, where he never dove or did anything to give this hopper the type of damage I observed. That, along with the fact that assembly takes so long (the nuts are a pain in the you-know-what), warrant my to give this hopper a below-average rating. The concept it great, I have to say. To give people a hopper that offers the same things as a Hybrid shell for about half the price, but you'll quickly realize what that marginal discount did to the production of this shell. Buy this shell if and ONLY if you plan on giving it absolutely no abuse. Otherwise, you're just wasting your money on a weak shell.
Speed feed didn't fit. Screws. power button line up.
This shell looks tasty. only thing is i dread putting it together! total time this took me was about 2.5 hours. The board didnot fit corrrectly and when i did get it jammed in, the power button never lined up. the two top screws are crazy hard to get off, had to go get a new screw driver after many unsuccessful tries. If I could, i would like to send this back, but i got it off EBAY for $19.00.
Very dissapointed with this product, I received it in the mail on a friday. The shell took forever to get everything to fit in just right and then I had to do my best to try and screw these horrible little screws in.
The next day I used this shell in my local Saturday rec-play. I had one break inside the shell and somehow acquired a crack along the top of the shell. Now I never took any big slides or falls and this thing up and cracked on me.
For spending $30 on a hopper shell I would certainly want something easier to use and something much more reliable. At this point I would say the stock shells are two times better than these shells.
For the record, I could get my stock halo shells open just as fast as the warrior top. The tiny screws can be difficult to take out and the plates they screw into fall out.
I would not suggest buying this product. It certainly isn't worth the money and I am less than impressed with it's reliability.
Finaly a durrable Shell. Cheeper than its cousin that cost 65 dollars.
The little nuts that come with it are not glued down so becareful.
I was skeptical about buying another set of shells. Having a hard time convincing myself to buy the 65 dollar cousin. I bought the cheep little sister. I bought my warrior shells in two tone. Black bottom w/ smoke top half. The packaging was cheep I was thinking oh boy there gonna crack! Got it home took my cracked shells off my halo and took the guts out. Took out the Warrior shells took all the screws out and like I said before the nuts behind the screws are NOT glued in -1. After I got the raceway in and started to put the borad and button cover back in I noticed that it didnt fit. Looked in there with a flash light. The wedge that hold the borad was a little tight. And at first the button cover seemed a little over sized and almost looked like it wouldent fit. All you have to do is push the borad down a little and it fits snuggly in place. The Button cover fits but the shells have to come together and they fit perfectly. After that it was a SNAP. And one other thing you will noticed is that the shells are NOT so thin. You can feel the differnce. Its made from a little different material. But there still under test. I will update later. But on that note I was able to put a bit of force on the screws with out craking anything so thats good. One thing I did noticed is that if you plan on putting a speed feed on these shells, you will have to knock the pin out that holds the lid in because the top is not split in the center like stock shells. Either that or you will have to break the lid off. Honestly its really not that much work if you are pacient. I like the Warrior Shells. Oh and I didnt have a single problem with the button.
Expensive isent always better. The shells seem to be made from better material "will see in the future". If you have a little pacients and take your time putting the shells together spite the nuts that are not glued in place. I paid 25 for these shells VS 65. And probrobly got a better deal. -1 for the screws,
9 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, April 25th, 2007 at 7:42 pm PST
I needed a new shell and picked these up at my local for $30. yes it's true that the nuts are not glued on but that's not a horrible problem. it's not like you're going to full disassemble your hopper all the time. i didn't have too many problems getting the board and chassis in.
the lid annoys me. it wiggles from side to side and it's a pain to close. like i really have to force it down. also, the top and bottom part don't align perfectly. there is a little space between the shells on the back right above the power button. i'm hoping nothing gets in.
as far as using it...it's just like any other halo shell. besides the things i've already described there is no big difference.
For the price you really can't beat it if you can overlook the minor imperfections in the design.
One color, hard to install internals, no speed feed
I found this thinking it would be a more affordable alternative to a suicide shell. its the same price as a ordinary halo shell and comes with all of the necessary screws for assembly but this is easier said than done because the shell i put on was slighly out of shape and i had to flex it to install the drive housing and board, but once i got it all together it was beautiful. at the time i ordered the speed strip shell it had only one color combination of black and smoke which i like but some may not. after a couple of tournys with the shell installed its held up nicely no cracks or flaws compared to the standard halo shell that cracked after the second game. the screws for the top half dont tighen down totally and allows some slop in the top of the shell but not enough to really cause problems
my only real beef about this shell is that i cant install a speed feed or somethin similar without breakin the lid off
Overall a good shell better than the normal halo shell and just as good as the hybrid shell just not as many colors, if you smash ur halo shell get one of these i give it an 8 only because of the lil slop and the difficulty to get drive houseing in
After reading the other reviews the first thing I did was glued the nuts in to simplify assembly and disassembly. As stated above the feedneck is much thinner material than a stock Halo shell. Slight force was required to install my Victory board to the point that it stressed the plastic that secures the board at the top on both sides. I did not care for the pin that was used to secure the lid. I use a Speedfeed 2 that fit securely on the shell.
I purchased mine new for $25 and have been very happy with it. If you get frustrated trying to clean your stock shell its well worth it. Gave it an 8 because there is always room for improvement in everything,
8 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, January 24th, 2007 at 7:25 pm PST