T68 M18 CQB - comes with a functional 18 round detachable magazine. You can use the bottom fed magazine to feed the paintball or you can use a hopper too.
- All metal construction
- Durable and reliable
- M4 style trigger and grip
- Multiple configurations and endless upgrades
- Compatible with CO2 and HPA
- .68 caliber
- Optional magazine feed system
The Real Action Paintball T68 M18 CQB Marker is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
tipman 98 same inaccurate as rap4 "out from the box"
AKM 7.62 and AK74 5.45 firearm 300 yds shots - no problem
than rate of fire 10 shots per second.
does it count ?
Gen6 + mag feed upgrade latest available and already included.
Flexi-air (Tried both remote and air-tank in the stock)
12" stock threaded "raptor" (I managed to cover it with thin layer of teflon paint inside so it's almost as smooth as j&j)
16" stock flat "recon" or smth.
14" j&j ceramic. (Apex attached)
AR15 carry handle with scope mount.
AR15 4x scope.
Any spyder-compatible barrel to achieve better paint to bore matching (bore to paint with hardest shell possible more exactly, this is why I bought j&j)
Apex, still not sure about it.
Bolt upgrade (you will need couple grinding stones for this and a drill press).
Air regulator in stock maybe another one right after the tank
I had to polish mag receiver internals in place where bolt hits the paint. It looks bad inside when it comes from the stock. Marker core shines like a mirror inside comparing to this.
"lock and tigh" + teflon tape where it's possible, in every connection where air flows.
Does anybody know why Milsig saved money on 1 inch of plastic and put just 18 rounds in mag length instead of 20? They would add 2 rounds to magazine and it would be ok and would replicate 20 round m16 mag at least.
Than Rap4 took that 18 rounds mag and attached it to their crap, very nice...
Those two are still not available for t68 so I still have to figure out how to do it myself which is a good experience:
Semi-auto switch integrated with semi-safety.
Trigger locked when out of ammo (same behavior Umarex is using in their 0.43cal RAM guns, no it's not Rap4 again it's just other guys.
MilSig mags and AR15 accessories are OK
Scare kids and maybe ref
Inconsistent => Inaccurate
Air is leaking
Reason I'm writing this review because I was very lazy and stupid when I trusted that ads that you might have already red in the top of pbreview and decided to buy one.
When I mentioned in rap4 forum that rap4 gen5 is actually Milsig product and it's tippman A5, they moderated my post. I see no negative posts in their forum so far, guess why ?
So keep in mind what kind of people they are when you order smth from them.
They will charge you 25% if you decide to return the order ( looks very suspicious if products are same cool as their ads are)
Total cost will be at least twice more than you see on their website or wherever. ( You will be using constructor on their site and will add at least 4 mags, than air option + butstock + tank + barrel + bag. (should be about 600-800 buks)
Finally this price make it closer to AT markers which another guy in pbreview tells about.
These ads and videos in youtube about parameters and accuracy and bla-bla-bla, all are about velocities closer to 400 fps for military and which is not allowed on paintball fields anyways.
Marines with Umarex markers and smbdy shooting rap4 on their back yard on 50 fts? ? Precise shots on 200 fts with 43 cal they r must be joking...
Ok if you still want to buy it I may help you to avoid same mistakes I have done and to save some money as you want get full refund anyways from them
First of all be aware that you will be buying a Spyder thing with its ups and downs. Tipmann stuff is the same crap but it's suppose to be more reliable.
Next time I would really try A5 and Milsig mag receiver next and it has remote line already - no extra $$
Total cost should be pretty nice though they sell markers for about 400 $.
1 . Model
Try smth very simple, very basic model. under 300$.
2. Two things are only needed: but stock with remote line adaptor and mag receiver if you don't want a hopper.
a) You may try to fit handguard from any woodsball kit for spyder, so it's not needed.
b) Most of resources in internet say that matching paint and the barrel is the key. But guys from Rap4 probably were watching so called "experts" on youtube that are filming video in their kitchen and swearing they "do overboring" too match so they following same way.
Don't buy their barrels they will charge you extra and you will have to replace them as they don't match most of paint.
J&j doesn't have rifling for the muzzle and I didn't want to buy another Apex adaptor for new barrel so I just shaved off the rifling in existing one and than just pressed the barrel into Apex aluminum ring after heating it.
I believe there should be Apex for j&j.
And than it comes to hopup Apex stuff. Btw a liquid in rotating sphere has shape of parabola and no idea how it changes when it's moving. So anyways that means different behavior from airsoft bb and I'm not sure any of people claiming advantages of Apex are aware of this simple fact.
c) Don't buy any mags. Clear mags from Milsig are better you will now about ammo left and they are cheaper. And If you r not get used to count the rounds you may face same kind of problems I got. Plus you will have to learn how to replace mags in 2 seconds. It helps very much when you do dry shots.
1-st - to drop it
2-nd to load new one, if mag poach isn't locked that's possible, (Paint may roll out from some magazines, at least Rap4 sell. You will disassemble them and will increase diameter of holes which keep tiny locking balls in place and prevent paint from rolling out. After this upgrade all paint is secured. Those tiny locking balls is still very smart idea but they easy to loose while disassembling mags.
d) Air regulator in-stock increases the length of the but stock though it's adjustable. And you will have to use a grinder or a drill to adjust a but stock length to nominal a little bit. I will attach picture how I did it. Than I played around a little bit with velocity spring because one that comes inside will give about 250 fps when using remote line.
e) Don't buy plastic carry handle, sling adaptors or any other crap they sell. Lower price is for scope mounts, risers, bipods, carry handle etc ... I used to put all that mess at the beginning and than I found that accuracy isn't enough for sniping. All these and similar accessories work from AR15 as I mentioned and they are made from real metal even if they are for airsoft guns it doesn't meter. This will definitely add a weight but you are strong guy aren't you ?
Anyways you will than just return it for full refund (without crappy 25 %) without questions in any online store ( which I did a lot :))
f) People who say "everything is ok with rap4 and no problem with this gun and so on " probably just don't care or just don't know what it means.
You will need "lock and tight", new o-rings, teflon tape to secure all connections that look weak by following assembly diagram from manual.
I broke up charging handle, it's made from the sh$ttiest alloy than all other parts. The place where springs are connected more exactly. So I've just drilled a hole in it and put a screw to keep springs in place instead of broken part.
I don't like idea of shooting 12 yo kids with something that looks like real. Maybe I will move back to speedball.
Besides that there are different options.
So far this gun works well with rubber balls, I liked them cause they are heavier, they never brake and they fly pretty straight. (Guess why - they don't have any liquid inside)
They should hurt like a mother which is a good if you need to make local airsoft maggots be afraid of PAIN balls :)) Plus they don't wear chest protection and other stuff ... yeahhh.... that was a big mistake...
Or you may get a chance to earn some money by ripping off somebody at night. But don't overestimate yourself, people who have already had experience with firearm will notice you are cheating (because of the diameter of the barrel at least) and at that moment you are in big trouble... don't say that was my idea...
Well here I'm still spending time working on tuning, assembling, adjusting, again assembling - adjusting and so on...
Final stage is probably automag internals inside t68 (as it's very soft metal = very so easy to handle comparing to steel) which means no more spyders and I give 2 at this point.