TIppmann A5: 16" JJ Barrel/14" CP/10" Tiller/3" Aluminum barrel, A5 to spyder thread insert adapter, Low profile X7 hopper, Tech T squishy Paddles, Response Trigger (Was using H.E. E-Grip until is tore itself apart.), Rufus Dawg blade double trigger (Tech T Fang Double Trigger with e-grip), Dead On Paintball 6.5 inch drop forward with On/off ASA, custom made wooden foregrip.
Azodin Kaos: ER Db Hopper
Delta 68: Dummy 12 Gram, Bottomline ASA
Spyder TL + (This is the only gun I have running off of CO2)
Invert Mini Storm LE with Empire Prophecy loader
Small Bore. The barrel is labelled as .90 but it has a weird slope/ lip sort of thing on the inside that I think tightens things up a bit.
Cheap. Unusual. Accurate. Looks kinda cool.
Breaks Paint at high rates of fire.
I saw a 10 inch, 2 peice TL 11 Tiller barrel for sale on ebay for $15. Bought it in a second because I was lacking a nice 10 inch barrel. Unfortunately, I still am.
For the money, Tiller has made a great product. Unfortunately, you kind of get what you pay for with this barrel - Here's why:
With new barrels, I always like to put my finger in the end of the barrel that screws in to the paintball gun, just to see how smooth the contact point is. Immediately I noticed that the bore in this barrel slowly slopes inward within the first inch. I played with it on Semi with my Tippmann for a while and it was great. Accurate over long distance for a $15 10 inch barrel for sure. I decided to start walking my double trigger on auto response and started to get ball breaks. Before you all start yelling at your computers that my cyclone was breaking the balls, I can assure you it was not. There was no paint in my A5, the problem went away when I switched to my 16 inch JJ AND - and this is the kicker- when I looked in the Tiller barrel, the paint had always broken DIRECTLY after the sloping lip on the first inch of the bottom of the barrel.
Here is what was happening: When you fire a paintball at a slow rate of fire, it begins to bobble later in the firing process - somewhere at the end of the barrel. BUT, when you start firing at high ROF, the ball becomes unstable almost from the point it enters the chamber and bobbles - just a bit- the whole way down the barrel. This was causing some of the balls to impact that sloping lip and break.
Keeping the barrel clean helped reduce the breakages. Once you have a break though, it just gets worse. It's not unplayable but you definitely want to pump the paint out just to make sure it gets on target.
Please read the review for my explanation. If you have a semi auto gun, this should work fine. If you have an electro (maybe even a response) and want a cheap barrel, give it a shot but don't expect perfection.
-EDIT- Thought twice about rating this barrel a 6. I am re-rating as 5. Barrels shouldn't break paint even at high rates of fire.
P.S. I will be buying a better 10 inch barrel, and once I do, I doubt I will use my Tiller again.
5 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, June 6th, 2011 at 1:02 am PST
The accuracy of this review is disputed. Please see discussion on the comments page.
Period of Product Use:
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Just Stock barrels which have worked better than this.
I have a Spyder Pilot ACS with the 16 inch blue tiller barrel, an 18 BPS View Loader hopper and dye sticky grips.
Maybe some expensive ones cause anything from $30-$45 for a box of 2000 seems to be a waste of time...
It is a long accurate barrel...
It breaks balls on a consistent basis. Almost midway through every game.
I've used one for awhile now and hate it. I break balls constantly with it and stopped using it. Someone told me it's not the barrel its the paint and I think to an extent thats true. But I switched to the stock barrel and never break a ball. Seems weird but is what happened so Im looking to find a better barrel in the near future.
I would find something else because this barrel does not seem worth it. Yes they are cheap but it will cause you too much hassle.
3 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, March 26th, 2009 at 1:38 pm PST