The Tornado valve for the autococker
Tired of running out of air? The tornado valve
increases your efficiency (on order of 2000+ shoots per 20oz co2 tank).
Can be used on Co2, Nitrogen or compressed air (must use regulator)
Low pressure, 150-250 psi input.
Manufactured of high-qualtiy heat-treated stainless steel
The AKA Tornado Valve is newer, so it should be commonly available, both new and used.
ANS GEN-X 3 Chaos series Autococker-DYE Boomstick 14"-12volt Revolution-Centerflag 68/45 Cube-ANS Dropforward with matching ASA
It took me roughly 10 minutes to install and once done, the improvement was phenomenal. I got almost 2000 shots of my Cube and it allowed me to lower my pressure to about 150 psi. My gun also became quieter due to this. Great stuff.
Expensive. I put a third of my paycheck into this.
If you want your cocker running at best efficiency and the lowest pressure imaginable, get this valve. Best $90 I've spent in the last 2 months
'99 Autococker body
Palmers Micro Rock Front Regulator With Knob
ANS Chrome Quick Switch 3 way (use to have a shocktech bomb but it wasn't nearly as short of a trigger pull and leaked when u tapped the timing rod)
AKALMP Lightning Bolt
AKALMP Evolution Style Pull Pin
AKALMP Tornado Valve
AKALMP Sidewinder Inline Regulator
AKALMP Back Block
Dye Chrome Trigger Frame
Dye Chrome Polished Trigger Plate
Dye Black Sticky Grips
Kapp Black Trigger Shoe
Kapp Chrome Beaver Tail
Generic Cradle (I have no idea what brand it is but it works very well)
Generic Stainless Steel Ball Detent
Stock Springs, Hammer, Pump Rod, Springs, Timing Rod, And Front Block
Lapco 12" Stainless Steel Big Shot (bore size .689)
Lapco 12: Aluminum Autospirit (bore size .687)
Viewloader 12 Volt Revolution Hopper
48 CU 3000 PSI PMI Nitro Tank
ACI 42" Coiled Remote
This valve is amazing! I was actually going to my local shop to get a rat 3:16 put in it since the old owner told me the valve was still stock and my friend's autococker has one in there. When the shop guy went to put in the new valve he came out with a surprise for me, turns out there was already an AKALMP tornado in there. Great for me i guess. I can get around 600+ shots out of my 48cu 3000psi which is really good since its only supposed to get around 450 for normal guns. I'm also running very low pressure which is also supposed to hurt effiency if its lower than 300 psi.....well guess what i run 225 psi at 295fps (i know, i know this velocity is damn high but my gun's so consistant it will never go over 300). Shockers that run at around 180psi can only get around 250 shots out of my tank. It also is super high flow so when i hammer my trigger i get no shoot down at all.
PRICE is a factor, since its msrp is aroun 70 bucks. The rat 3:16, a similar valve but not as good is only around 40 bucks. I say for the most part if ur gun isn't as tricked out as mine u dont' really need the tornado but for amazing guns its a godsend. Also like any valve its a good idea to spend a bit of time tweaking with various resistance springs to get the best effiency, which is best left for an airsmith to do if ur clueless about cockers.
Its the best.....thats all there is to it. A bit expensive but no other is equal to this gas saving moster.
2k2 autococker: Hinge Trigger, Armson Stealth Barrel, Tornado Valve, Bomb 3-way, STO ram, Kapp Dropzone and AGD Warp Feed
Awsome air efficency and consistancy! With my 68-4500 tank I can easily shoot a 2000 count case with out refilling. My pressure is now down to 200 p.s.i. No ball breaks or chops to report. A must have for a custom Autococker!
Difficulty to install (Recommend Airsmith).
Great add-on to any autococker! A must have if you want low pressure and great efficency!
98 Vert Feed Autococker anodized pewter. OTP Dream Series Barrel System and a black 12 inch CP Barrel. Fiber wrapped 68 4500 Nitro Duck Tuff Skin. Chrome Kapp Kradel and a Black Palmer Stabalizer. Chrome ANS front block, ANS Jackhammer, and Chrome WGP Swing Tigger. Tornado Valve and a Chrome 15 degree kickstand. Clear 12 vt Revolution. And finally, a Redz tank Glove.
I used to have a 3000 psi 68 ci tank. It was finshed in like 450-500 shots. When i got my tornado is shot like half a case before it needed reloading. My cocker is very low pressure. 120-150 psi :)
its kinda hard to figure out how to get inside markers and install then correctly. learn from my mistake and let someone who knows what they are doing and let them do it for you
2k cocker w/ 12" DYE Boomstick, Silver MacDev Gladiator, ANS JackHammer 2, DYE Hinge frame, AKA Lightning Bolt, AKA Tornado Valve, MaddMan Spring kit
This increased my efficency about 700 shots on a 68ci 4500psi tank. It makes my cockers consistency +-1fps with my Gladiator regulator. Makes my gun so quiet all you hear when i shoot is the ram cycling(To hear what it sounds like i turned off my jackhammer by backing the screw all the way out and pulled the cocking rod and fed a ball into the chamber and its sooo quiet) And i have broke RPS balls which were 3 months old out of about 2 cases which is very pleasing.
It requires various different upgrades to get it to its full potential such as a High Flow Regulator(MacDev Gladiator), a High Flow Bolt(AKA Lightning), a light spring kit(I use maddman springs with the Blue valve and green mainspring) and some say a tight bored low porting barrel which is only for if you want the absolute best efficency i use the boomstick which makes my gun a tad less efficent than a Lapco or AKA Javelin but its like i all ready stated sooo quiet.
If you want to get better efficency, better consistency which leads to a bit better long range accuracy and if you play wood ball and want to make youre gun soo quiet that friends cant hear you from about 30 yards away get this with an AKA bolt, Good high flow reg(AKA Sidewinder or MacDev Gladiator for Nitro, Palmers Stabilizer for Co2) and a good spring kit (MaddMan)
ACI high-flow valve -- didn't seal well and didn't really improve performance
98 Cocker w/AKALMP LP internals, Rock, quickswsitch, 45 grip, Vigilante/WGP reg on CO2, DYE alum. barrel
Constructed out of steel -- no worries about wear/damage! Has sealed fine for me from day 1. Helped me get my input pressure down near 200psi (which helps reduce ball breaks), added significant efficiency (shots per cylinder). I run CO2 quite effectively with it. The set-screw is machined to a point for positive locating of the valve -- something a lot of other valves could really use!
PRICE is the big one -- it's the most expensive cocker valve out there. It puts a higher demand on your gas system in terms of volume -- you need free-flowing regs and enlarged gas passages (not an issue on 98 cockers and later), and maybe even a volume cell ("valve extender"). Consistent pressure is also critical since pressure is used to set velocity with the Tornado, so if you're running CO2 like me, you need two regs. The stainless body doesn't deform at all when installing so the retainer nut came loose more often on me. I fixed this with the O-ringed nut (KAPP).
This product does what it's supposed to do, and it does it very well. If you're looking to lower the operationg pressure of your Autococker, then this is THE valve you need. Accept no substitues. This valve is extremely consistent and it will allow your 'Cocker to run between 150 and 300 psi. For the lowest pressure possible on a 'Cocker, you also need an adjustable front reg, high flow bolt, low pressure chamber, light mainspring, and heavy hammer.
Nothing is actually bad. However, I give a word of warning: if you don't know what you're doing, don't try to install the valve yourself. That said, it's a great product!
This is the best valve for the Autococker! If you're looking to lower your pressure and up your consistency, then buy the Tornado valve from AKA!
The tornado valve for the autococker is a great valve. It does everything AKA says it will do. I have the valve installed in the custom autococker I built and it runs between 150 and 200psi. The efficiency is also great. I can get about 1400 rounds from a 68ci 3000psi tank. With this valve, velocity adjustment is also easier as you rely less on spring tension and more on input pressure. AKA's installation instructions are top notch, just make sure you follow them.
The only bad thing, and it's not really bad is that you can't just drop this valve in and expect it to work. If you don't have a consistent, high flow regulator and high flow bolt, and yellow nelson springs then it will be difficult to get really low pressure operation. Also, one thing that's not mentioned in the instructions is that if you turn up the pressure too high, the velocity will drop significantly. With my guage reading 400psi the gun would only shoot 175 but when I dropped the pressure to 150-200 and turned the velocity adjuster in one turn it shot 298.
This valve is absolutely worth the money. I got mine through Skanline for about $75. It's rare these days to find something that actually does what is advertised. The AKA tornado valve is the exception. It delivers extremely low pressure, velocity consistency, and awesome efficiency. With a little time and patience, your gun will rock, just like mine.
This is a great valve for the following reasons:
1. It allows you to lower the operating pressure on your gun.
2. It makes the gun more gas efficient.
3. It make the velocity more consistent.
It's a lot more expensive than other valves, but I still think it is worth it. Note: you need to have other low pressure components (high flow reg, softer springs, front air chamber, high flow bolt, 98 size air chamber) to maximize this valve's potential.
Definitely worth the money to lower the operating pressure. I Highly recommend it.
1. Most efficient valve available for an autococker. I have one in both of my cockers(my Sandridge and my personal custom one), and they both get unbelieveable efficiency. I shot ~1800 rounds from my custom autococker with a 300 psi fill @ 285 fps.---The reason is that this valve will shoot balls until the pressure reads almost 0 on your gauge. Thats right, almost 0. The valve reduces operating pressure of your gun to around 120 psi or so depending on you spring selection on the hammer. But my guns will shoot paint at 285 fps even though my gauge reads almost zero(granted these gauges are not really precise). The downfall to this is that I noticed that from 3000-2000 psi, you don't get that many shots, and from 2000-1000 psi, you get roughly double the amount of shots, and the last 1000 you get almost half of the maximum amount of shots!! This becomes problematic if you are sharing a scuba tank with someone and toping off after every game. Beacuse you will fill(top-off) more often so that your gauge will read 3000 psi. However, if you drain your bottle to 100-200 psi then you won't have this problem. Some days I find myself bringing along my scuba tank for no reason. But then again I play front, and I don't shoot as much. Those who play back will probably have to top-off only once if you shoot a case-and-a-half and you wait until you've almost drained your bottle before topping-off.
2. Makes the gun more consistent. This valve works by making your cocker's velocity flow dependent. And flow is controlled by you regulator, not you hammer kit. So what you do is back the velocity screw all the way out, and adjust your regulator till it plateaus. Then turn up your velocity screw till it reaches the proper velocity. In this scenario, the gun's velocity is controlled by the regulator and not the hammer. So if you have a high quality and consistent regulator like Palmer's, MacDev Gladiator, Black Ice, or some Vigilante's( NOTICE ANS Gen-X is not one of them) it follows that your velocity will be consistent. I've set up a number of autocockers with velocities of +/- 1 fps with this valve and a good reg.
1. Like I said earlier, those who feel the need to top-off after every game will find that you're draining your scuba fast. You will need to change you tank filling habits.
This valve performs well on any 98 or newer autococker(these have larger valve chambers). Older autocockers will need to have the valve chamber enlarged by a GOOD airsmith to get this valve to work. But it is by far the best valve on the market, and I have tried them all. I really recommend this valve to those players who cna't afford a scuba tank or the means to lug one around, because you can get a fill at your local store, and pretty much play the whole day depending on you much paint you dump. I would give this valve a 10, but I didn't leave the "bad" box empty.